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Bro you have no idea how excited I was for this update

I've thought of replicating something similar to this using Ford's plastic engine research from the 80s. Basically, they made the main block and head structure of PA6 glass filled Nylon (which is 3d printable), but made steel inserts for the cylinders, bearing surfaces, combustion chambers, etc. It worked fairly well from what I've read. With 3d printing, you could then easily print in water cooling passages, etc, so that even if on a hot day, the coolant temp gets too ~100C, it's still lower than the glass transition temp of Nylon (and that's plain Nylon with no fiber reinforcement).

I need to see this thing run. Its so promising. You inspired me to buy a 3d printer and print a air engine. Took 3 attempts but it actually ran before the crank exploded

Hi! Someone with knowlege on smaller engines here! Weak spark is because you're opening the points WAY too far. They should open like 0.4mm or something along those lines. Try it, you'll get better spark. Right now you have great spark when just using the screws as electrodes, but under compression the spark will fail. The second large fault with this engine is the compression. I've never seen an engine run on less than 5 bar compression, and that 5 bar engine ran like hot garbage. You should aim for a minimum of 6 bar. 7-10 bar is usually considered good in most smaller engines, but 10 bar in a plastic engine would probably not work. Fueling isn't as important as you think. If you remove the carb from your lawn mower and just pour a bit of gas into the intake, it WILL start. It won't run, but It'll start. An engine needs a good precise mix of air and fuel to run good, but as long as there is both air and fuel in the chamber, it will fire. As long as there isn't enough fuel to foul the plug that is.

I am so invested in this series. In 8th grade I did a presentation on how the internal combustion engine works and have been so interested in the mechanics of making a miniature one. This series is essentially what I want to do just someone actually doing it and knowing what they're doing. I love it!

Super underrated channel. Big fan of your work , keep going

You could put a metal sleeve in the cylinder to make it more durable. Also on starting, I've had success using a flywheel extension about 2-1/4 inches in diameter on the engine and a two-inch wooden dowl on a 5/16 -inch steel rod in the drill. A large O ring from a water filter cap drives the engine. This was you can continually crank over the engine with one hand, allowing the other hand free to tweak needle valves and so on.

Keep up the work man I was working on a 3d printed machine that needed to spin at 10k rpm with a heavy magnet. 11 revisions (full redesign) for a functional prototype over a year. You got this. Keep at it.

18:26 not just a funnel, Coanda effect plays a huge rule. The air curves around the lip, so in fact, the totality of the air is much greater than what's "funneled" in. It goes beyond the lip, which is why v-stacks suck in hot engine bays, because even if you point the thing in the fresh air, it will suck air from a far greater area due to the properties of fluids (of which air is one). So you end up sucking a hell of a lot more hot air than cool air (because the air travels straight from the fresh air port is smaller than the greater volume created by the lip) and the engine suffers. The best stacks are exposed stacks, hence why vintage racers had them out to atmosphere.

Thought of doing this myself recently, glad to see I wasn't the only one 😅Keep it up man! I really like the diagrams too.

Making awesome progress! Congratulations on getting a video sponsor!

I was SO excited to see you made another video on this. Looking for someone who 3d printed an engine is how I found your channel. Its awesome.

I actually just put a printed velocity stack on my 2 stroke scooter, and I couldn't believe how much of a difference it made. I had to jet up like 6 sizes over what I was at already. Velocity stacks are sick.

"It's not even that hard to make an engine, just SUCK, SQUEEZE, BANG, BLOW." ayo WHAAAAAA

This channel, and of course you, are fantastic!! You can drive the user through every single minute of your video, by talking and showing what you are doing in a unique way that everyone can understand!! Thank you so much! Keep up with this good work!!

Super underrated channel! The best series on KZfaq!! I cant wait to see an update!

You need a small capacitor and a ballast to get a useable output from the ignition coil, hope this helps for future experiments:)

"What's under the hood?" "IDK, I downloaded it lol"

FINALLY!!! I've been waiting for you to post this video since I found your channel!! Thank you and great job on the engine!

The compression you managed to create is very impressive! Excited to see what you come up with to make it run! Also glad to hear that other cars shed parts, too! I was afraid it was just mine that did that... Congrats on getting a sponsor too! Great to see your channel grow so rapidly!

loved that bit around 9:00 where you replicated those old tv explanations. gold.

i really like your paper headgasket especially since i have this 1980s suzuki quad that i fixed with some paper as a gasket for its leaky clutch cover and it still works today!

I’ve been looking forward to this video! Nice work man

The issue with the spark plugs may be the internal resistor that helps limit Radio Frequency (RF) noise. May be too high of a resistance for the current/voltage generated by the low speed of the engine. That would explain why 2 bolts seemed to work better.

Finally you did an update and i am looking 100% forward to it, hope you make another soon i love it please and dont stop i need to see it start, even for 2rotations until it blows up, im looking into doing it myself and if you would sell/share the models afterwards i would 99% start building my own, thanks for keeping this series alive❤❤

Very nice video, and very comprehensive. Thanks for this.

Loved this so much I been waiting a long time

8:52 to 10:07 is an absolutely amazing description. after just going over magneto and battery ignition systems in class this really helped for reinforcement

I cant wait to see another update. I love this series.

I love watching this guy inventing stuff that shouldn’t be made but doing it anyway because it’s cool😎 good work my guy

good content, just what I needed today, thank you!

Hey Camden, loved the video, I do have some ideas you could try. Try going back to a DOHC so you can adjust the intake/exhaust separately. Changing to a domed piston to allow the compression to force on the piston more than the cylinder walls, maybe try a 2 cycle system with a motorcycle style ignition system, and a sealed case for motor oil.

This is so sick waiting for the next part

A few things... Spark plugs have a small gap as they need to spark under compression. The denser the medium, the more difficult it is for a spark to jump the gap. I'd suggest making the bolt ends a bit closer together, as even a lawnmower with it's low compression is going to have a gap on the order of 0.030". It looks like it was kicking back when it was firing, which means your timing is way too far advanced. Try a bit after TDC to start with... that should make it a lot easier to start. Butane isn't a bad idea at all. I'm tempted to suggest propane as it should be a lot easier to use a propane torch for this, but it might burn hotter, shortening the usable life of the engine. I'd add some grease (not necessarily oil) to your cam lobes. Once this thing does work, they're likely to flatten out quickly.

I know nothing of engines and love these videos. Keep up the great work.

I'm thanking you for your hard work trying to make a 3d printed gas engine and i wish for every project you have to be successful

I'm do glad I discovered your channel

I actually do alot of repair on older engines that use a similar ignition system. Your cam for the points are opposite. If you got a small raised point you get more presise ignition and the coil gets a longer contact period to charge up. Also the cam height seems to big and can easily cause float at higher rpm, especially due to the cam design. Also most car coils are actually 9v and require a ballast. They are 9v to make starting a car engine easier when the voltage drop while cranking over. Giving the coil 12v will fry either the inside or the points. Some coils have an internal ballast, but many require an outside ballast.

You are incredibly smart my guy. You got a gift for sure

Hope this channel gets more attention. Great Videos!!

Use an open bowl 'whisker' carburetor. Its really simple, will not flood, and will allow your engine to take in just as much as it needs. The simplest way to make one is to: 1, just take a metal baking pan [needs to be fuel proof and flame resistant in case you get a backfire from the timing being off], and 2, take a piece of sheet metal, put an inlet at one end [preferably the corners actually to make the flow and efficiency best] and outlet at the other, and 3, loosely fluff some coarse steel wool in between those. It can be held together with wire, tape or rubber bands, and you can fill it from the inlet using a funnel or just being careful enough to not spill all over the place. This is a dry vapor carburetor, and therefore will not dissolve your plastic [that we can then leave to the heat of combustion to take care of], and it can not flood, nor thin your oil out too much. Also it won't carbon foul anything [NOT that a plastic motor of THIS kind of plastic would last that long] if it ran for a long time. From there, just connect a hose from the outlet of the carburetor to the inlet of your motor. I can't suggest you use glass cookware, simply because it is glass and can break, but if one did want to see how much fuel was inside the carburetor, one could solder tubing, or thread in some hose barbs and put a clear vinyl tube on the side to act as a sight gauge. It would be best to seal the edges of the box with a little silicone, but only if you make sure not to spill fuel on the silicone sealant, because it can soften the silicone and make it swell up and ruin the seal. A small 9 inch pan would be fine for this. Technically you COULD use a round cake pan, a bread pan, even a normal cook pot, and a cook pot even comes with a handy removable lid [again, best not to use one made of glass in case of a backfire] that would be super easy to observe, and, a thick aluminum pan would allow easier threading of hose barbs in the sides than thinner steel would. These have existed a long time and work really well on stationary engines. They are not quite so great on vehicles where tipping over can be a problem, nor on engines where high horsepower can be a problem, but just for the sake of youtube content, it will work on this instance, and last longer than your engine. Another thing I can mention here is that if you do not mind 'cheating' enough to use various sizes of smooth walled cans [either soda cans, beer cans, or even single operation die formed aerosol cans] you might be able to insert a piston sleeve, a cylinder head combustion chamber, and a metal surfaced piston, which would allow much longer and smoother operation. The trick would be to find one cylinder for the head and sleeve diameter [they have to match, but could be cut using 2 separate cans to ensure adequate material to make them match] and then one slightly smaller for the piston. I know there are some out there, I have made little 'air motors' out of them long time ago when I was bored.

Nice to see a real engine again! Hope you get it working soon!

Awesome Video Camden Bowen.🙂

Best video i've ever seen good job bro:)

This series is so amazing and interesting

I think it would be possible to make a 3D printed gas-powered engine if you used the 3D prints for molds for casting heat resistant composites (or even metals, such as aluminium). Also, I think it would be interesting to use a *semi-adiabatic piston design* (it was used on diesel engines), basically, you make the piston head partially hollow and inject air and fuel in a vortex inside this piston hole. Since a lot of heat ins't actually being exchanged with the piston head, it makes the engine more efficient, but it also reduces the amount of heat generated. Plus, I would also advise you to take a look at hypocycloid engines, these kinds of engine try to reduce the friction of the piston head with the cylinder walls by making it a straight movement converted to rotary movement using gears. *If you get the parameters correctly*, I think that _maybe_ it could help this engine a little more of a life-span by using linear bearings. Well, there are a lot of different ways you could try to make this 3D printed engine work, be more efficient and/or durable, but I don't know how much you want to crack your head on the subject.

This is an awesome project! I hope you don’t give up until you have a running engine

A youtuber who loves laminar natural aspiration as much as me? And he also does stupid projects combining 3dp and internal combustion engines? You might actually be my favorite KZfaqr.

Camden is by far my fav youtuber at the moment. Super underrated.

Like, there's no any other ytber I wait so much for his videos

Love the update on the series. I think you should give butane another chance, I think your mixture was too lean. If you decide against it, maybe try using a carb from a lawnmower or a chainsaw, get the thing working on that and then go to making your own. Too many variables!

bro iv been watching all your vids recently and keep it up like fr i love the vids

Make a 3d printed block, crank, piston, and cylinder. Then put a metal sleeve in the cylinder with metal piston rings! Cool stuff! Keep up the good work, God Bless!

love every single video you post

Loved the clip with the fuel injected mini( :

I always like channels like these

3:29 alot of ignition coils have a low ohm resistor in series with them to avoid burning out the primary

As always great video

I made a working 3d printed engine,with water cooling. What I made different is: 1. In the engine block I used from aluminium pipe (40mm ID) a Cilinder liner,so the plastic won't melt and also you can cooling it. 2. In the block I designed channels for water flow cooling the aluminum wall(coolant passages). 3. I used a hall sensor and a little magnet for 50cc fuel injector. You easily can adjust the timing with this setup. You can burn Aceton or anything very flamable just keep under some pressure for the injector.

Seems like LP would be easier to deal with than Butane. Especially considering availability of regulators, valves , and orifices in the world. Great project. I hope to see more

a condenser in line with a old style car coil is needed and the car coil runs on 9 volts but when it cranks over its 12 volts..hopes this helps ..and the condenser is on the neg side of the coil 👍👍

Good vid and i like the idea of it. I think the timing of the spark is part of the problem or possibly the air fuel mix since it did fire a few times. Have you thought of using a high voltage transformer for/from a plasma lighter to get a nice ignition spark

You could try to build a 2 stroke engine, i know you need to time the exhaust and intake holes to make it run, but it could be interesting how a 3d printer handles the intake hole.

Really cool video, love watching 3D printed stuff pushed to the limit. Nice looking divers watch too my guy 👍🏻

There was a fully Zytel Nylon engine in the 80s, it even powered a LeMans entry, was a 4 cylinder, loosely based on(well molded from) the 2 litre Ford(Europe) Pinto engine block.

Yes mate!!! you sir just made it to the list of my top 10 favorite youtuber, just because of.... you

If you make the gap on the ignition system smaller. You know the light switch that you used. That can make a huge difference in starten and running a engine. If the gap is smaller the rpms can go higher. I have a old 50 cc engine where the gap is 0,6 mm.

Great videos man, thanks for sharing! Generally a gasoline powered engine has a much higher compression when at top dead center, something like 100-125psi. It allows for better thermal efficiency and to extract all the energy from the fuel. Another important part is having your air fuel ratio as close to stoichiometric as possible, this ratio changes depending on fuel type. In an open atmosphere the Venturi works for mixing the air to a relatively stoich ratio but may need a more tightly held ratio. Hope you can get that thing running! Maybe try a fuel that burns "cool" in the sense that it dosnt produce as much heat from combustion, alcohols tend to burn cooler.

21:00 try to use starting fluid/carb cleaner, it starts anything if it have ANY little compression and good spark - it will start

Great video!!!!!! First time watcher and yes, I subscribed!

i was waiting for your video man :D

When you shaved the piston flat you increased cylinder displacement causing a longer compression stroke therefore raising compression to around 7:1 or 8:1 which would cause a higher torque and hp output if at the same revolution- Your favorite diesel mechanic

Really cool way to recreate a point system, distributor and fuel injection system. I do wonder if you could have just gapped the spark plug wider.

This is actually really cool lad imagine putting it on a go kart

I just love engines in general I’ve made little engines with lego (of course they don’t run) two 2 cylinders, a 4 cylinder and a 6 cylinder, all inlines, I love seeing you putting so much effort into these little things, I would love to see you build some kind of race car one day

loe the shape you put the magnets in

"i was just driving and then these white bits just fell out" 💀 quote of the century

I enjoy your videos and the things you make, especially because im a mechanic. Looking forward to seeing what else you build in the future. Oh and just a quick note about sparkplugs, you can change the spark gap yourself by just bending that little metal finger. You can get a sparkplug gapper/checker (most commonly looks like a 50 cent coin) and it helps you bend that finger up or down and set the gap. I know you didnt end up using the plug, but you wouldnt have had to buy a new one unless it burns out

Bro keep the work up 💪

KZfaq says I've watched this video already. Not sure why. But it actually looks super interesting so I'm totally down to *actually* watch it.

I love the concept. I hope it will work. Is it possible you could use a metal filament for the combustion chamber and piston. I'm excited for the next update.

Love the video! It'd be cool if you tried a to make a rotary next.

This guy deserves way more subs

Reminds me of a guy who tried making a LEGO engine a few years back -he got maybe a couple of ignitions before the thing melted/blew apart.

18:16 i think that if you drill holes, tiny holes around the lip, the vacuum stops forming. I'm not 100% sure of this, but there's some old military intakes i've seen over the years that were straight pipes (with the knowledge that they would fully know about intake shape properties, especially on account of NACA - which transformed into NASA) that had these tiny holes.

Dude why you not got a million subs? I subbed. You're funny guy and thats also very interesting project. I wanted to build the same with a 3d Printer after I finish my exam so there I have time. But now I saw with all your experience its not that "easy" as it seems or as my first thought was. :D But still very good! Keep up the work!

:o another CB video! My day just got better

The issue has to be the amount of pressure that the butane is getting as it goes into the engine. When the piston is moving up and down that quickly I highly doubt it is pulling enough butane inside in order to create actual combustion. Try grabbing an air compressor and tune the pressure on one of those blow air gun handles with butane spraying into a metal tube of the air gun. Make sure that you are getting a good amount of butane in there, and then have it shoot directly inside. It just needs more flow and pressure so I am sure you can do this by just shooting in the hole like what you did with the makeshift venturi but with pressurized air rather than ambient air (assuming you dont just backflow the butane hose). Of course this is a guess but I would say its worth a shot considering you basically have everything available to do it.

Interesting project. I have some relevant experience, and will be very interested to see how long this runs once you get it going. A few thoughts: - Try to use as many COTS components as possible to begin with, even if your long term goal is to 3d print everything. This especially applies to ignition and fuel metering systems. That way you can concentrate on solving one problem at a time. - The engine is obviously under fueling (running lean) as it is. That's probably the main reason it won't idle. You need a fuel metering device of some sort, or you will never get anywhere. For the sake of simplicity, a carb is probably the way to go. - Likewise, look into using a self contained CDI system off an outboard or similar. They usually need only 12V and a hall effect signal to work, and are both powerful and reliable. - The comrpession pressure seems really low compared to the compression ratio, about half the expected value. You either have some kinda design flaw or a major leak somewhere. - Thermal management is going to be your limited factor once this gets on idle, especially at the piston crown and exhaust valve seat. These components rapidly approach the melting point of various metals in "real" engines, and there is only so much you can do by reducing compression and running rich. Consider using different materials in these areas, at least initially, so that engine life can be extended far enough to gather useful prototype data. Good luck 🙂

For the fuel system, i'd use a petrol vapors. You can make the system by having a closed jar of petrol with two pipes, one leading from outside to the bottom of the jar submerged in petrol, and the second one leading from the top of the jar to the intake. Good Luck!😅

Glad you're trying again!

This is great please keep suffering to bring us more

LETS GO ANOTHER COMBUSTION ENGINE VIDEO

my friend is a mechanic and he told me the only "life hack" he ever used working on engines was to use a Cheerios cereal box material to make air intake gaskets for small engines. he would stack up three or four layers of that material and cut the gasktet shape and then use that

I have been working on a 3d printed airsoft minigun. Having trouble getting compression in a cylinder. What did you do to get any compression? Is the cylinder lined? Is it printed horizontally? Did you use any particular settings? Cool project!

finally new update to the combustion engine also can you make a rc car with that engine and a previous gearbox design that would be very intresting

Amazing stuff. Could try sleeving the cylinder with foil tape to prevent cylinder wall degradation ? Inspirational videos!! Just discovered the channel

this is sick!!

To prevent the cilinder from excesive fricción and having to print the entire engine each time you could try to insert a metal or plastic sleeve, like a piece of thin wall pipe cut to the length of the stroke and with the inner diametre of the bore. Maybe a pvc or copper pipe