Its like watching a surfing competition. Everyone's having fun in the water, except for Doubtful Dave who is zooming down a 30 foot wave despite not really knowing how to swim.

I took it to mean that once he started moving he was quickly in a position that he could not reverse

Most of the routes are highball/higher than highball.

​@@climbermacleodSkyball!

Too big for highball. Smashballs more like.

Seems like it was a skyhook which was pulled down with a static rope so it would have a slight chance of staying in case of a fall. Just guessing here

Exactly. It tensions a skyhook runner so it has less chance of falling off.

To tension a skyhook runner

@@climbermacleod no kidding. i didnt see that you had placed a sky hook. No wonder you were a bit nervous. Dave, I really liked your ending section of the video (even more than the rest).

The only real runner is at the top of the easy first slab, so if you fall from the crux you drop 10m or so onto the slab and break yourself.

Usually when climbers (in the states) say “exposed”, they mean there’s not much in your field of view around you or below you other than open space. Like if you move from a corner to an arete, suddenly you can see much farther in every direction which causes the sensation of being “exposed”.

My first two ankle surgeries were after a fall on a bolted 6b (lowered off the rope end).

@@climbermacleod haha fair enough. It certainly seems like your approach to risk management changes the climb/ climber relationship significantly. I can imagine how special topping a route like this must feel given the multitude of decisions that are made or not made compared with a sport route of the same difficulty. Thanks again Dave (and Kev as well obviously) for the great work

@@elliottbraunstein7560 No, but I didn't choose a life as a pro rock climber for a stress free life. Stress is the core of adventure.

The movement can be enjoyed for it's own sake by anyone on top rope. The real question should be, if a toprope can be safely set up and utilised, why is 'leading' a line that has been bolted viewed as more valuable than top roping? The essence of leading, it's history and tradition, is the very antithesis of climbing a bolted line - it's about pitting your witts and climbing skill and knowledge against what the rock naturally offers you. If there is not enough protection and the moves are too hard, back off, accept the humbling and leave the line to someone more skilled/until you are more skilled. Forcing protection on the rock in the form of bolts just so that it can be safely 'led' is a complete perversion of this essence of leading, and should be seen as no more valuable than simply enjoying the movement on top rope.

Adding a bolt would destroy this route. Dave does a great job of explaining the mental and physical preparation that go into tackling a route like this; aspects which would be completely lost if bolts were added. There's more to climbing than just the physical, and not everybody has to do every climb. There's a lot of rock out there.

Well don't climb the route then, there are plenty of other climbs in the world that are nicely bolted. If someone bolted it how more people would climb this, not many considering how hard it is to get to.

@@christyboothroyd5891 I mean it's not like I don't understand what you are saying, but you are just reiterating the same points I've heard a millions times from UK climbers. Your grades don't make sense and the style is contrived. What they are preparing for here is a solo not a lead, free climbing should not involve the risk of broken bones. And I don't agree with any first ascensionist that puts up a route like that. It's ego driven, and it should be a part of the sport that goes away. A first ascensionist with less ego and a different vision could have put up a route that's protected better and it would be a classic. (and wouldnt burden rescue crews if someone fell off) Adding a bolt would not destroy the route it would make it climbable by more people. Climbing to some extent has to reckon with it's history of machismo and ego driven dangerous FA's. In the long run it's not positive for the sport to have dangerous routes that go un repeated. New routes should be gifts to the community that will be repeated often and not hurt anyone in the process.

@@nateblakely4674 Why should we all be entitled to have all pieces of rock accessible? And what makes you think someone wanting to push their mental limit is ego driven? If this climb was in some highly trafficked well-bolted sport area then maybe you'd have an argument that made sense. The only thing that seems egotistical is you thinking that all rock in the world should be bolted to a standard that YOU are comfortable climbing.