Hey Larry! I enjoyed this video very much. I work at Tony's Train Exchange and I can tell you that not only is Larry Maier a very accomplished and experienced model railroader, but he is a brilliant engineer as well. If he recommends the DeoxIT for cleaning tracks, then he has thoroughly tested it and knows that it works extremely well without pretty much any of the drawbacks of the other cleaning solutions widely used to clean tracks. Our CMX Clean Machine track cleaning car is a perfect way to dispense this solution and clean your rails at the same time. We also use the DeoxIT all the time when working on locos after we do repairs or upgrades to DCC or Sound for customers, and it is truly an amazing product. It can instantly improve conductivity on even some of the oldest and most troublesome locos. I'll look forward to seeing your follow up video on how this worked on your helix.

I never posted a video on my channel about it but I also tried NoOxID on a small test track that I set up just for that purpose. It was all brand new Kato Unitrack and putting the NoOxID on it didn't work out well for me at all. I had pickup issues on both DC and DCC no matter how carefully and lightly I attempted to apply it. Thankfully it was easy enough to strip back off since it was only a small track of loose pieces not anchored down to anything but it was a larger pain cleaning it off of my test locomotives. And for me one of the larger things was that it attracted dust out of the air. Which, in my area, is a big deal since it's just dusty where I live. Not I just use odorless mineral spirits and a clean lint free cloth and just do so regularly. When it comes to flash fire attempts I don't believe I have ever come close to a vapor saturation point even remotely dangerous. Same with using isopropyl alcohol. Now gasoline? Yeah I think i'd draw the line on that one.

An Aussie channel recommended INOX MX3 a while. We have tried it on the club's N gauge layout, Wickwar. We apply it, very sparingly, with pieces of 2mm card and then go over it again with some clean pieces of card to remove any excess. It has given good results over the past season.

Hi Larry! Thanks for this presentation. Track cleaning is always an interesting issue. I remember when Wahl clipper oil was first suggested, it was controversial then and never stopped generating comment. One of my layouts is a display layout in a preserved depot with no climate control, so the doors are open during most operations. I used to use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) for track cleaning and had good results, but in the last few years I have gone to using CRC 2-26 Precision Cleaner and Lubricant. Yes, it says it is a "lubricant" and obviously has petrochemicals in its formula, BUT I haven't seen it diminish tractive effort (but both my display layout and home layout don't have heavy grades). It comes in a spray can but I don't spray directly on the track, I use rags from old t-shirts. I spray the cleaner onto the rag and then swipe it along a section of track. The wheels carry the cleaner around the layout. Because of the open nature of the display I still have to periodically wipe along the track to reduce the accumulated gunk, but it wipes right off. I get my 2-26 at the local Home Depot (Electrical Dept) for less than 1/3rd of the item you recommend.

Two thumbs up! It's always good to get information on track cleaning dos and don'ts. Let's face it, NO ONE gets into this hobby so they can can enjoy the opportunity to clean tracks!

Hi Larry. I came across a product called STRIKE HOLD, which was developed for the US armed forces in Afghanistan to keep dust and sand from fouling their firearms. It is a cleaner and lubricant but DRIES without a sticky residue. I bought some to use on my firearms, then decided to try it on my layout because of the non stickiness. I live in a coastal town of Yeppoon, Queensland Australia, and it is quite humid most of the time and as you can imagine has a lot of salt air as it is on the coast. I apply the Strike Hold by putting it on a lint free rag and wipe it on my tracks. I have a helix with a 2% grade and do not have any traction issues. I might run my trains if lucky maybe twice in two weeks, and I have not required to clean my track for 6 months. I used Inox beforehand, it was good but not nearly as good as Strike Hold. Cheers from Australia

Hi Larry and Merry Christmas to you and your family. I am glad that you are looking into this product and I look forward to the future results. Track cleaning is the bane of all model railroaders and a reliable solution would be wonderful.

Great video, Larry - thanks! I first used No-Ox-ID in April of 2022, right after Ron gave his glowing recommendation. Overall, I've been very pleased with the results. I started by cleaning all of my track thoroughly with mineral spirits; then I applied a *thin* film of No-Ox-ID to about 3 inches of track, then ran a locomotive over all of my track for about 8 hours. Finally, I wiped the excess No-Ox-ID off of all of my track. I have not had to clean my track since - just over 18 months now. I've never had an issue with traction, probably because I have quite a small layout and a 10 car consist is extraordinarily long. That said, I am mindful of the long-term accumulation of dust on the track, so I will wait eagerly for your update.

Have been using INOX for a few years now and it’s great. Yes I made some mistakes by applying too much but got it right. I keep a lint free piece of material with INOX on it and just wipe the tracks occasionally. I had to cover the layout because of house renovation works for 8 months. I took the covers off eventually and without touching the rails with anything trains ran perfectly. I will never use anything else again and I would advise those that can’t get it right to stop and think about what you are doing. To say you don’t need much is an understatement.

I look forward to hearing your results with DeoxIT. I have tried NoOX ID and CRC etc. etc. I've jotted this down on my running list so I don't forget to check back! Thanks for the great content.

Couple things to consider... Mohs Scale of hardness when using some type of "track rubber." Nickel is a 4 on the scale, anything harder than that can scratch your rails. Masonite is a 2-3 on the scale so no harm will come of the rails. You can scrub the rails with Masonite as hard as you want and no damage should come to the rails in terms of scratches. One other thing to consider is humidity. Water vapor in the air (which is "polar") combines with the metals to attract dust, dirt and oxidizes the rails over time. A dehumidifier will help reduce these effects. Dehumidifier also helps with benchwork warping and prevents mold and mildew.

Larry thank you for talking about this, like everything cleaning has to happen. Thank my friend, have a great Christmas holiday.

Thanks for doing the research and putting together a detailed video of your findings.

Hi Larry, I very occasionally, once a year or less, I put a tiny amount of Inox (a polarising spray) on a small piece of rag and wipe over my rails. I use a track rubber only to clean up after ballasting/painting. Otherwise a wipe with a champagne cork lifts any dirty spots and polishes the rails. It is easy to hold and covers both rails at once. When it gets dirty you cut a thin wafer off the end (or drink more champagne). Have a Merry Christmas, best wishes, Peter from downunder.

Excellent information Larry. I have been using no ox id for my n scale coffee table layout but I am glad I watched this before I build my Ho scale modular layout where I will have much longer trains. This has really gave me a new point of view on track cleaning and it is greatly appreciated. I think this subject is the most important topic in model railroading because it can turn people away from the hobby when they are spending too much time trying to just get the trains running. Merry Christmas!

Dear Larry, great video, love the comparison of all these different track cleaning techniques. Definitely will look into the DeoxIT. Never used bright boys, try to avoid any abrasive on the track. The last years I’ve acquired several bundles of old track at thrift stores. Depending on the original manufacturer source of the tracks, I first attempt to determine if we’re talking nickel-silver rail. Then I give ‘m a first thorough cleaning with a tiny bit of silver polish product. That really helps getting rid of the accumulated dust and gunk over the years. Must add here that some of those tracks looked just as black as the sleepers when I first got them. After this thorough rinse and polish I clean off the residue with a mixture of lukewarm demineralized water, a drop of dish soap and a tad of alcohol. Next step is to do the lint free cloth rub. Then the track is back into shape, the railhead running surface as smooth as a mirror and no gunk remains. Cheerio

I was totally unaware that so many people had train cleaning issues. I ran big trains(Like coupler breaking long) in both N and HO, which seemed to keep the track clean, and never really had any problems. I did wipe the rails with a kitchen scrubber (the sponge side) wetted with 90% alcohol, but that was rarely, if ever, really needed. I cleaned the wheels on my cars and locos a few times a year with alcohol and Q-Tips. The only problems I ever had was back in the brass track HO days. I was a little kid(4) when I got my first layout, a neighbor put it together, it was sold as a kind of a kit. No rolling stock, just premade and painted scenery and track that needed to be laid. I passed it to a friend's little brother when I was about 10, the brass track had long been replaced by nickel-silver by then, ballasted, and the manual switches had been replaced with Atlas powered ones. I switched to N about 1969, and had a pretty large layout. Only the worst locos had any issues with "stuttering", and many of those wound up semi-permanently parked in the yard, or in the worst cases, made into dummies that did nothing but sit there and have a glowing headlight. Modeling PC made it easy to repaint a badly painted loco, spray it black and put PC decals on it, done.

Great show Larry. Merry Christmas .

Hi Larry. This is a great topic and I look forward to your follow up after your testing. Reading all the comments and many other discussions on this topics, it seems to me that there are three related but also different issues. 1. Initial and remedial cleaning -- that is, the best approach to restoring track/wheels to their clean state. 2. Electrical conductivity - what is the best approach for "treating" clean rails so that electrical performance is enhanced and arcing reduced. i.e. Joe Fugate's discussion of polar and non-polar solvents. 3. long-term performance - what is the best approach for reducing the need for remedial cleaning. It seems to me that there are many approaches to #1 that probably achieve similar results (hence many of the comments to this post). Re #2 - Fugate has introduced the idea of using products that reduce future micro-arching by paying attention to the polarity of the given cleaner or rail treatment. I do not have the background in materials engineering to assess these claims, but the scientific approach makes this convincing. #3 remains the holy grail. When folks comment re their suggested approaches, I would find if very helpful if they were clear whether or not their approach results in reduced requirements for remedial cleaning. My casual scan of the NoOXid supporters comments suggests that the benchmark in this area should be at least one-year between major cleans. John Geddes - Vancouver, Canada

Grate information thank you. I love the show your intro music was stuck in my head at work the other day.

Thanks for posting further info on track cleaners.

Thanks for the info. We just sold our house and in a rental for now. No train play for me until we buy again. Love your videos

Hey there! I made two Masonite scrub cars and they work great! Thanks for sharing this

Yes, when Steve Brown talked about a lint free rag, I adopted that concept. Thanks for all your tips!

Thanks Larry, Great Info.

I only use WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. Spray some on a blue shop paper towel, wrap it around a small block, and rub it across the top of the rails. Also clean the wheels with it as well. We use this contact cleaner at work, and it performs very well.

Damn. I don't even currently have a working layout. But, I work in the electronics and printed electronics industry and I could have told anyone who asked that the No-Ox-Id was the totally WRONG product for model railroad application. It's really designed for high friction male/female or pin connectors that have been given a tight fit for anti-vibration purposes and to keep out oxidization (oxygen contact) and for marine use/water proofing. Yes, its electrically conductive but its secondary function is as a petroleum based insulator. By the way, WD-40 has silicone in it. Silicone is a dielectric....and insulator. Very poor for current transfer. The De-Oxit products used to be marketed by Caig corporation as Pro-Gold....FANTASTIC product. I use the De-oxit product on electronic fuel injection system contacts. They have two levels of products. One for actually dissolving (electrolytically) the oxidation from the metals....but they have a dual use product that actually IMPROVES connectivity. I still do not know if it would cause slippage but its the best product system i have ever seen for what it does.

Very interesting video, thanks for sharing your expertise

I thought I was going crazy. I used No ox ID as outlined in RTNT .- my track attracted alot of dust as a result of using this grease. alot of black grime. Thanks for sharing Larry. Happy New Year !

I have a three level around the room layout with a 2% nolix connecting the levels. I have used noox for about 10 years now. Many of the advocates for noox repeatedly say you must use a MICRO thin amount, not a greasy layer of the stuff. When I have had a few locos that lose pulling power I simply doublehead up the grade, just like the prototype. But I never have to take track cleaners to the rails with laborious reaching to the back of the layout etc. I suggest NOT taking ANYONE'S advice and try it for yourself on a test section of track. My layout sat for nearly 1 1/2 years with no use. When I went back locos would not run, the track was too dirty. With a VERY THIN application of nonox, and running my most reliable loco until it stopped and then adding a tiny amount more of nonox, I had all 60 of my locos running the entire length of my three levels in about an hour's time with no elbow grease invested. Just letting the loco do all the work. Good luck with any other cleaning method, and you might be convinced to try nonox.

Merry Christmas, Larry, to you and yours.

As soon as you pointed out that NO-OX-ID is a grease, I did the biggest face-palm ever. How could anyone think that greasing your track is a good idea?

Thanks Larry great information on track cleaning. I run home made cleaning cars like you have show. I also use Inox. Too much and the track becomes slippery. The cleaning car pads are made from p,y or marine ply. Instead of nails I use tap washers with the washer cut off.

Thank you for sharing.👍

Sound advice, thank you Larry. I have a precautionary tale to tell on this subject: Before building a layout, I used a length of straight track which was pinned to a 6’ length of oak batten, to test any new running stock. I used a propriety track cleaning fluid which is marketed and sold in the UK for just this purpose, and comes complete with a glass bottle of solution, a dispensing cup and cleaning sponges. It cleaned the track beautifully without leaving any residue behind. However, after a couple of years of occasionally using the product, the track chairs became embrittled to the extent that they crumble away from the sleepers, allowing the track to literally peel away! Whether the cleaning solution caused the plasticiser to leach out, or led to some adverse polymer reaction I don’t know, but I would certainly advise any long term testing to be undertaken on a piece of sacrificial track. Hope this helps, and keep up the good work.

Hi Larry, I started using CRC2-26 on my large N Scale layout. It cut track cleaning to running my vac car around for dust. There was an occasional reapply on grades. But it worked great for me.

Back in the old days when brass rail was the norm, I remember an article in MR that stated nickel-silver rail oxidizes but the oxide layer conducts electricity, where brass oxide does not. Track cleaning was much worse then because we had to keep something on the track to prevent oxidation. That might account for why some modelers want oils or a grease on the rails. Back then it made sense. Today dry rails are better.

The true way to render ourselves happy is to love our work and find in it our pleasure.

Thanks Larry, like other aspects of the hobby there's so many different ways of doing things, opinions, ect. I tried NOOX and found it too difficult to control the amount, formed globs. My latest method for N scale is to use mineral spirts to clean off a regular pencil eraser once it gets covered in black. I also have a passenger train that I zip around the layout at a higher than typical speed which seems to help things too.

This is a great explanation of these cleaning methods. I have been using the wood method for the past couple of years with a small scrap piece of 2 x 4 on N Scale tracks; So far it picks up all of the dust and debris. It's a smaller layout, so of course it's easy enough to run the wood over all of the tracks by hand, but I may look into a custom boxcar like you have shown with a flat piece of wood underneath. I'm also interested in the DeoxIT if using wood isn't holding up after a while and because I'm also constructing a much larger N Scale layout that might require a better cleaning method. Thanks for the insight.

Good video, well timed for those in the northern hemisphere when winter stops outdoor play. I wrap a white cotton cloth around a sanding block and spray it with CRC electrical contact cleaner (Inox in UK, Australia, New Zealand) which is safe for plastics. I can reach every part of my track and can clean beside station platforms by flipping the sanding block on its side. Have a look at fishplate films on this subject. He is an electrical engineer but his video is hilarious as well as being very informative. I switched to CRC after watching his video.

Felices fiestas. Un gran abrazo. Excelente el vídeo a como limpiar las vías.

Good information. I was always curious about the weird stuff people clean their tracks with and wondered where some of the 'solutions' came from. Wahl clipper oil was a new one though! I've been using a CRC electronics cleaner for years now; have done several videos on it. they also have a lubricating version and unfortunately, they don't make an n-scale locomotive with sanders yet as i found out the hard way. it was at least a 50% reduction in tractive effort. i clean my basement layout once a year (except when i work on the track or near it - i do have to do spot cleaning throughout). it greatly reduces the black gunk from the rail/wheel arcing, takes paint off, and all without being abrasive. the CRC plus the Woodland Scenics cleaning wand is pretty much my best friend. i use the pads that fit under the cars to take care of the day-to-day dust that builds up and still have to vacuum the track every so often from dust and loose scenery material.

Hi Larry! Great video and I am very much looking forward to your report! I remember seeing several of the no-ox ID videos and thought it was a great solution ... until I actually ran into some at work that we use for electrical connections. The consistency put me off and I never actually bought it to apply to my rails. Ron's video was very explicit about the fact that he used a very minimal application and that is probably why he had lesser effects, but I am very excited to find out how this new product DeOxIt works out! Currently I generally just wipe the track with a rag made of old t-shirts (already tumbled to that one! LOL) and run my trains a lot, which seems to help keep everything clean. But my layout is only just taking shape and I haven't started doing major scenery construction yet, so there is dirt and debris in my future! I am hopeful DeOxIt will make my life easier. 🙂

Watching this reminds me of how many different things I've tried over the years. Currently using NO-OX with good results. I was also concerned about the possibility of slippage in my helix but have not noticed any nor have I had any noticeable difference in dust collection on the rails. That said, I am going to look into that DeOxIT.

Thanks Larry, here in the uk I use a product called Inox. This cleans up nicely used sparingly then wipe the track over to remove any excess. My layout is small but it works for me. Also it’s conductive, and helps contact on switching . I just have the cheapest Guagemaster type.

As always great content. My two cents, I have had great results with NoOx ID. Again, there are lots of variables with use and application. Less is more. Ron mentioned this I believe and Steve I believe admitted he may have been heavy handed. From what I understand it helps with the microscopic pits in the rails from sparks and abrasion. I have a relatively small layout with consists of 7 or less cars. I don’t run them nearly enough but with NoOx ID I found from sessions with lots of no run time in between the tracks stayed very consistent with current for months to a year. Of course, using it doesn’t mean you’ll never have to clean again especially in an unfinished area like you mention. I am pleased with it. I know from my vintage synthesizer repairs and maintenance the detox it is great for electrical continuity so it makes sense to use for rails. May give it a try down the road. Thanks again.

Thanks Mr. Puckett. I’ll wait for your test results. I built a very similar Helix to yours following your radius and grade. It works well. I would hate to have any NoOx on it trying to run an HO scale Auto Train on it. Haha😊

I have been using a piece of Veg tan leather glues to a little wood block with a stone ruse on it. Think stropping a razor it leaves a super fine finish on the rail almost mirror like over time.

My local club (Houston area) has standardized on mineral spirits as a track cleaner. We use a couple of drops on strips of cheesecloth mounted to either a track cleaning train the club owns or homemade PVC T-handles if cleaning by hand, & then dry it immediately after cleaning. Fumes aren’t ever an issue because we use it in such small amounts.

Very informative. Thanks for sharing……

2000 grit sand paper. Polishes the track to mirror smooth. Removes oxidation, micro pits, everything

I think anyone with a large layout cringes at the use of cloth. Every switch is a potential snag and trashes points. I for years have used the finest Sandflex blocks and a roller train with alcohol on the lead roller. On the other end i clean is loco wheels with alcohol AND then with CRC 2-26 on the wheels. With this film on all locos it spreads a small amount all around the layout. Note this includes all the switch engines. Works great.

Excellent informative video which I enjoyed watching and I am in the UK and use EC 90 which is used for cleaning delicate electrical contacts /switches/components. It is a spray which I put on a lint free cloth to clean the track it evaporates leaving no residue. I have been using it for 2 years and it cleans the track/locomotive/freight car wheels with excellent results.

Kia ora and Merry Christmas to you and yours Larry from New Zealand. Absolutely agree not to use any grease or lubricant on your track. Martin of Marklin of Sweden also covered this and rightly pointed out if your locos have traction tyres they will swell up and fall off as they need a tight fit.I shall be waiting for the results of the De-ox testing. I use a lint free cloth and IPA when needed and try to run trains at least weekly which helps to keep track clean.

Thank you, Larry. I appreciate your comments but have a different experience. NoOxID was a clear winner on my layout. I started using it about 2 years ago. Was tractive effort affected? Yes. Initially after application, 50% reduction in pulling power on 3% grade was noticed. However, after two days of drying on the track, traction was only down 10-15%. Are the tracks sticky? Compared to IPA, yes. Slathering the rales is not required. After two years, I have not done a full cleaning once. Rubbing alcohol "rub down" cleanings used to be required 3 times a year before NoOxID special was used. Will I clean my track again. Yes. I think the "dust and grime" point is valid. If I am cleaning my track once every 18 months or so and the trains run on demand after weeks of non-use, then I have my winner. History of my cleaning products: Pencil eraser -> Bright Boy -> Goo Gone -> Clipper oil -> IPA -> NoOxID.

I've used white spirit in the past.....very informative Larry.

Inox MX3, a wipe over and also use for lubing the trains and they will run smooth as...

Merry Xmas Larry, many of us N gaugers also have to think about what these chemicals do traction tyres.

Larry, The Masonite slider works fantastic for me. (no chemicals, abrasives, greases or over complicated/problematic cleaning cars). I choose to use them on cars with a drop down style side frame which disguises them. They run continuously and my rails look perfect. The other advantage is they clean hard to reach areas like tunnels. They are also easy/cheap to make and easy to maintain. If your rails are in really bad/neglected shape, use one of the other methods to get them reasonably clean and then switch over to Masonite which gently polishes the rails. Thanks for the idea!! They work for me and I think it's absolutely the perfect solution. I've thought about rubbing the Masonite surface with a carpenter's pencil (ie graphite) but haven't found a need to.

I suspect that the variations in results reported could be due to the amount of application of the respective liquids

Interesting video. I have to wonder how much of the tractive effort loss is due to user error in application. CAIG, the makers of DeoxIt, state that this product is a conductive lubricant, just as No-Ox-ID is. On the other hand, Sanchem says that No-Ox-ID paste can be used in situations where you definitely wouldn't want any possibility of additional slippage, like securing guy wires and other clamped or screwed "industrial" fittings. Seems at first glance like six one, half-a-dozen the other...

I've used ronsonal lighter fuel (for wick lighters) for over a decade, never had an issue. A few drops on a cotton swab. Slowly rotate the swab as you run it along the rail heads. It's really hard to imagine a scenario wild enough for this to cause a fire. The main ingredient in DeOxit is mineral spirits, so it is very nearly just as flammable.

I read about an interesting bit of information in a new article from MRH magazine about mineral spirits. Referencing the Sage journal study, Review of the Toxicology of Mineral Spirits: "the concentration of benzene typically found in mineral spirits, it says: "The specification for benzene content in mineral spirits is usually

I picked up some of that No-ox-id but have not used it on any track yet. Currently, I'm more interested in trying it on the pickups. I think it might be great to get better conduction and help to prevent (or at least slowdown) any wear of the copper strips.

You are so right. Last year a made a small ovale layout around a small Christmas tree. I put NoOxID. I was pleased at the moment. But months later I add to clean the track. And this Christmas I could not run at all the oval... I hat to wipe it. The surface of the rail was sticky ! Yes, no grease on the track.

Very informative. I never did feel good about using No-Ox-ID, so I never did. Steve Brown's experience confirmed my suspicions when I watched his video on KZfaq several years ago. I have been using a product for the UK called Track Magic that works very well. Depending on how frequently you run your layout it last between 2 to 4 weeks. It really cleans well, and improves conductivity. I'm looking forward to your test. If it works well, I will switch products. It will be significantly cheaper.

I bought DeoxIT D100L, I intend to use it on rail joiners on Bachmann EZ-Track, I am fed up with having to wiggle rail sections to eliminate Dead spots. I have used it as a contact cleaner with excellent results. I worked as an electronics technician, and Instructor for 27 years. I will try using it as described for rail cleaning.

Many thanks for this excellent video Larry, and indeed all your excellent videos. I’m a new UK-based railway modeller, and your explanations and examples have been absolutely invaluable to me as I have made the many decisions needed to build a layout from scratch. I’ve still a long way to go, and still many more years of work, but I’ll be sure to keep watching your channel to keep me informed of the best way to do things. Keep up the excellent work and very best wishes for the Festive Season 🎄

As an electronics tech, I have used Caig De ox for over 20 years on all sorts of applications with great results. On a whim,I used it to treat my Lionel Super O track layout over 3 years ago. As you are probably aware, Lionel units using AC voltage will create plenty of buildup on the track. I was amazed at how much better the trains ran and the track has remained far cleaner than previously.

Could be that the problem people had with No Ox Id because they put too much on. I just purchased it and am looking forward to trying it after applying it the right way.

I've only been doing this (model Railroad) for a few years now. From my electronics background (years ago) I know that abrasives are bad as the micro pits they create attract all sorts of nasty stuff that inhibits connectivity. I also figured anything with a lubricant of any type would be bad. As a result I have been using a small cut off of a scrap 1x2 on my N-Scale layout. Just rub it along the rails. Ends are already tapered to go over points. Even clean rails transfer "junk" to the wood. Just replace when it is all black. Plenty of sources for free replacements. Rails are nice a shiny. Cleans off glue, Liquid Nails Projects, Paint, etc with no issues. So far no issues with running trains. I don't run the trains from late spring, to late fall, but a once around the track with the block at the start of model train season, and all is well. I don't have the time into this that most of you do, but it really seems to work well. I do really like the hard board cleaning car. I model N-scale, but I'm sure I could cobble together something using an old car. I really don't have an old car yet, but I'm sure I can find something. I haven't closed up the tunnels on my layout yet as this is a winter hobby for me, but it seems like it would really help there. I also agree there is no magic bullet and anything that claims never need to clean again I would steer clear based on that claim.

Great video as ever. I was checking out Amazon UK and Deoxit D100L is selling over here for £72.49 ($92) for a 25ml bottle! At that price, it will have to work really well for me to be tempted. I will watch with interest.

Thanks Larry-very informative video. Very good point about the oil in Goo Gone-even if it seems to work immediately after application to the rails. But did you recommend carefully using a flammable solution after warning against doing the same? Be safe and have a merry Christmas!

I really like No Ox on my O scale 2 rail layout. It helps if I run the layout frequently. I haven’t had to clean track for over a year.

Thanks for posting the video. My experience has been different and focuses on two separate and very distinct components: cleaning the track and locomotive wheels, then protecting them. As you mentioned, IPA works great as a general purpose cleaner, but unfortunately does nothing to keep the nickel silver from oxidizing again. Although CRC 2-26 protects the freshly cleaned surface from further oxidation, it's a somewhat viscous liquid that definitely needs to dry before you run trains over it. A better product (in my opinion) is the CRC Cleaner and Protectant (green can) which is a lighter viscosity that flashes faster and can be easily applied using a large rubber eraser. Track cleaning cars work great on a mainline, but can be time intensive to run over every single siding and spur on a layout. The rubber eraser method is much faster and more thorough. Lastly, applying a small amount of product to a limited area, then expecting it to be carried it around the layout is wishful thinking. To ensure consistency with whatever product you decide to use, it should be applied manually not only to all the rails, but to the other component of electrical conductivity: the locomotor wheels, otherwise only half of the problem of stalling is being addressed.

Hi Larry been cleaning my track just had so major work done on my layout and had lots of dust and debris used a vacuum cleaner to get the big stuff off then I used my woodland scenics Tidy Track Cleaning device the pad get black and I clean them off with Metal Polish Liquid then back to cleaning. I now seen two videos and Mineral Spirits I quess I will have to stop using that but that really did a great job of cleaning some tuff spots on my track. I have two cleaning cars one from Tony's trains the brass tank car. But never used it and did not know what to but in it but now with DEOXIT D100L that might be the answer. I see it on Amazon but I will wait for your review of this. Merry Christmas

Hi Larry, as always very insightful and informative. I will wait for your results and conclusion on the DEOXIT. I have been using Track and Rail Cleaner ACT-6006 by Aero-Car Hobby Lubricants. I've had great success wit it but would like your opinion on this product, i only have a small layout and I am getting ready to move and build a larger layout. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks again, looking foward to the next video.

Larry, is DeoxIT safe for track with plastic ballast attached (i.e. Kato Unitrack)? Also, I am a firm believer in always labeling containers.

I'm looking forward to see how it goes. I use just a Nickle or quarter on the track as the are nicke on nickle/silver that polish the track. Never use anything that scratches the rail. As the leave places for the gunk to settle into.😮

It might not help in a big basement or attic layout, but for smaller rooms I've found that some good quality air purifiers really help keep dust off the track. I have never used any chemicals, only the rubber abrasive pads that come with the Tidy Track system about once a month. It's been running reliably for over 2 years.

hello Larry & it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks Larry friends Randy

In the 1970s an older friend gave me a jar of Carbon Tetrachloride to clean my mostly brass HO track. He was an elevator tech and had used that fluid for years to keep electrical contacts clean. I used it for years and found out only later that is dangerous to liver and kidneys.

I run a small N guage railway and have found that ordinairy kitchen universal spray clener, sprayed on a clean rag works wonders .You'd probably have to hunt a wee bit to find a MODERN cleaner that suits , but its way cheaper than specialised cleaners and works perfectly fine. :)

Thanks for the video Larry. Just like Mineral Spirits Isopropyl alcohol is also flammable and has a pungent odor, with the added benefit of water on the track. No-Ox-ID has been working well for me. I seem to remember that Ron said he cleaned his track again after all sorts of construction in his basement, not just after everyday running.

I use Contact PRF 6-68 clean contact spray for the electronic. This can spray are dry oil-free cleaning spray and really works much better than gasoline and thinner.

Larry. Thanks for a ery interesting video. But Deoxit is ridiculously expensive in UK. Happy Christmas. Pete

I've been using INOX for a couple year and it works great. I have a 2% grade on my N scale Layout with no problems at all. Bob

Have you tried Inox MX3 with the Noch 60156 track cleaning pads........works a wonder. Remove the pads every now and again (when they look very dirty) wash them, allow to dry, respray the Inox mx3 on them and reattached to the cleaning car.

Nice guide. I use INOX MX3 for the final finish which I believe is a similar formulation to Deoxit. Interesting enough there is a theory that the 'polarity' of the cleaning product for heavier cleans can make things worse; apparently methylated spirits (denaturated alcohol) should be used in preference to IPA.

We've had really good luck with DeoxIT and Atlas Conducta-lube for cleaning locomotive power pickups. I suspect a lot of automotive contact cleaners would be comparable but much cheaper but have not personally used them. Music stores often sell some of the DeoxIT products too.

I've used CRC 2-26 for years to clean track and wheels $4.25 at Home Depot.

When i painted my track, i first used a small block of wood or masonite to remove the paint immediately after spraying it. (Worked in 2 to 3 ft sections) then inwent and used a piece of cork roadbed. If needed, i then used a peco rail cleaning block if only necessary. For general cleaning every few months, i will quickly run a piece of cork or the peco block across the rails. I also have a cleaning block thats is softer than the peco that i use generally. Now i only use the peco block if the softer version doesn't get the job done. (I have some second-hand relay rail where it will corrode in a tiny spot or two.)

Merry Christmas Larry! One thing I would warn you about stuff like Inox and potentially what you're trying here is how it affects traction tyres (they soak it up / degrade apparently). I've only seen them used on the UK models over here, but apparently they were used on the older American stuff as well.

I was using 91% isopropyl alcohol almost exclusively until someone mentioned LPS-1, which is a "greaseless lubricant" whatever that is! It is recommended for electrical contacts, etc., so does a good job of getting rid of the effects of electrical contact residue. I have been using it on my personal and club layout for a couple years now and have had no adverse effects. I use a CRX cleaning car which I like because it holds a lot of the fluid, is heavy, and has springs to keep the pad in contact with the track. I usually move it around with a pair of -9 locomotives running as a consist. Some folks have told me that CRC2-26 works better. These two products are similar and fall into the "contact cleaner" category which is really what we are trying to do. I haven't found LPS-1 to be a "dust collector" but maybe others have. Don't know about CRC2-26. One thing I have been told is that there is a two year shelf life on these products so that they probably don't clean as well if you are using an old container of either product.

Thanks for covering this most controversial of all model railroading topics. Everyone has their very own magic potion approach to track cleaning. Of course, there's always more than just the potion itself. The method of application is also important, as is the geography of the layout and the frequency of operations, among other variables. I look forward to your follow-up report on DeoxIT D100L. With your typical thoroughness, I'm sure that you will try to isolate as many peripheral factors as you can, so that whatever results you observe and share will be as reasonably scientific as can be obtained under the circumstances. One observation that might be relevant, if not unduly complicated to obtain, would be the actual track current consumption in respective trials, if you could temporarily fit your RRampmeter to the test track. Good luck with your trials!

Track maintenance is required regardless of how many trains pass per day. Even if the average is once per day, I would clean my tracks at least twice a year.

I only use little dabs of it between the switching rails on turnouts, and it has completely eliminated dead spots in the switches. Also works well on the power-pickup wipers on locomotive wheels, and passenger car wheels. Noticable reduction in "flickering"...

Not only collects dust but could potentially get up inside of you motor as well an the contacts an possible shorts could happen let alone damage as well to gears ect. The tiny bit you think will not cause trouble will build up over time an likely would be needed to clean the wheels regularly to keep buildup of the dirt an grease from doing damage a lot more. I love you videos an wish I had listened to my dad about this stuff too he was so very right as well too lol. Do they make a mini vac track cleaner and how do you keep the cleaner car from causing a shot if it's one big wet clean pad would not two small ones for each rail be more safe?

Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is polar, so it will also attract dust and dirt. IPA also promotes microscopic electrical arcing, which causes the black crud that forms on the rails and gets dragged around by the wheels. You should use non-polar substances, which is why some model railroaders prefer mineral spirits. Since you mentioned flammability as a concern for mineral spirits, you should also be aware that IPA is also flammable.