Let me be specific: High Range I typically only ever use for travel/transport of a tractor down the road. This tractor doesn't make enough power to travel in high range if you come up to an incline in the road. Medium Range is my go-to normally because I like to work at those speeds. This tractor will do OK as long as I'm not heavy pulling. It does strain the engine at times especially on hills. The tractor keeps churning away, but I can tell it's not happy. Low Range will pull anything. But, you're creeping along at 2 or 3 MPH. Very few jobs require speed that slow. And, none of this matters if I decide to hook a 6' mower to it in the future. PTO horsepower will be a necessity at that point regardless of travel speed. Bottom line is, 25 horsepower is clearly the ragged edge for a 4,000 lb. machine. The more power the better.

you can adjust right side of your three point so its lower than the left, you can grade a crown like that with that box blade. And ya, one of the land planes might be perfect for you, they seem to be almost magical at pulling your gravel back to the surface

This may not be what you want to hear but here it goes . I did the opposite as far as horsepower. I had a 37 horse Kubota and now I’m getting a 26 horse model. The power was nice but I personally found the dpf emissions a horrible nightmare. It sucks because if you need the hp you have no choice. I found I didn’t need the power since most of my time is spent using the bucket and backhoe. When I asked my dealer about the regen process they told me to run it like I stole it and always run it hot. A “regen” means run the tractor at full throttle for 20 minutes to burn off the soot. Let me tell you , it is scary to listen to a diesel screaming at 2800 rpm for 20 minutes! And before all this emissions crap , no tractor company suggested doing that . Imagine doing this when the tractor has seven hundred hours on it! I’m old school and I respect my machines so I couldn’t do it anymore. One night I was moving snow out of my driveway, it was 0 degrees, the tractor was running a little cool because I wasn’t “running it like I stole it” and called for a regen. No , I’m done with that. I’ll make do with my 26hp. Just my thoughts man . Think about it .

adjust the drop arm on the 3 pt hitch to put a tilt to the box blade...you can put a crown on that driveway nicely that way. box blades take some skill for sure, but practice makes perfect. and you're better off selling it privately and then going back to the dealer for a new one.

I’ve got a Kubota L2501 hydrostat and have no problem with 5 ft implements, box blade, cutter, tiller.

My 1626 shuttle does fine. Your tractor size is not the problem. Instead of losing money on trade, hire someone to show you how to run a tractor.

I would stay with the one you have. I have a LS 25 hp and when I am on my tractor I am not in any hurry. I work for a equipment dealer and we always have trouble with DPF system. If you plan on keeping the tractor for a long time. You are better off with the lower HP. Good luck.

I watched your video when it first came out. I had just bought a 25 horse about a month prior. I had almost the same issues going on. My 25 with a hst trans wouldn't even pull the hill on my driveway in high gear. So I ended up doing the same thing you did but almost a year later. I didn't want the bigger payment but I wanted something that I would be happy with for years to come.

Been there done that, twice actually. I'm a Deere guy, but it's all the same, get what you want and get what you'll be happy with. The positive side for me was I had a few years experience with the small tractors by the time the third tractor came around so I knew what I wanted in the tractor. Even the options, I got my 2038R with just about everything I could get, block heater, rear remotes, wheel spacers, lighting package etc... Seems you're like I was, loved the tractor but just not happy with all of the performance, take the hit and get the tractor that best suits your needs and wants.

But your supposed to go slow with box blade. Low gear with whatever HP you have. Good luck

This is why you always buy more power than you think you'll need.

Was in a similar boat I had a JD 4052M 4wd and upgraded to a 5065E 4wd haven't been disappointed! The extra power and ground clearance has been nice for brush cutting

Hey man I learned the hard way too... Bought a 1025r, loved it, but just not enough power for what I want to be able to do with it and it's a lot of money each month for a machine to NOT be able to do what you want, or need to be able to with it. Painful lesson. We aren't the only ones, heard a lot of stories like ours.... Best advice I heard was "buy more tractor than you think you'll need"! Wished I had heard that sooner.... Then again, with the price of them... Sometimes it's just about what you can afford, period!

I have a New Holland TC33D hydrostatic. It does everything very well. I box grade my gravel drive, run a bush hog, a tiller, and a 6ft belly mower.

Well folk's can only buy what they can afford and sometimes haveing not quite the best machine or tool just takes us bit longer to get it done.

I bought a kubota 2501 about 6 years ago! Overall worked great and no issues other than the hp wasn’t enough at times and the manual trans was tricky with work I did most of the time! I recently traded it in on a 3902….big difference in power and with hydrostat fits my needs better. I also took a bit of a hit on my old tractor but if it wasn’t working for me it’s not worth it try and make due! I’d end up burning up the clutch or breaking something over working it!

Glad it all worked out for you. I looked at all manufacturers but TYM because we dont have a dealer close by. I almost bought New Holland but once I realized they were made by LS, I purchased a brand new LS XR4145HC with a loader for $28,540. I love being able to plow snow in a t-shirt inside a warm cab when it 5 degrees and snowing out or work in the summer with the AC and stay dust free.

Thanks for the timing of your work lot of people don’t give time of work

I have a JD3320 E-hydro, basically the previous model to the 3033R (no def). I use a 72inch front loader bucket, a 6ft mid mount JD autoconnect finish mower, a 5ft woods brushbull xtreme brushhog, 5ft landpride box blade, and 5ft king kutter tiller. Perfect power for all those applications. With the brushhog it would run 6ft in light conditions, I prefer the 5 due to less weight hanging off the back (prefer 3pt lift rather than tow) and being able to mulch brush/ mow heavy cover without stressing the tractor. The 6ft midmount mower runs 7mph easy, I cut my 2.5 acre lawn in 1 hour or less no problem. I use the tiller for wildlife food plots-large areas (2 acres), doesnt even begin to work the tractor. Before the 3320 I had a 22hp JD. Since the upgrade I have never felt I needed more power. With the E-hydro and load-match settings I can work as I want and the tractor manages speed etc... so it doesn’t bog. If I were to buy new I may upgrade to the 3046 just for excess, but I believe that and the 3039 bring a turbo to worry about. I dont think the 6-7hp difference from the 33-39 would be worth $3k.

Great vid I'll b grading a lot of gravel eventually -waiting to see a vid like this thanks

That john deere promise would’ve come in handy

FWIW: I have a NH TC33D HS. I have had it for 19 years & 3,500 hours. Use it for all types of work. Mostly mowing (flail, finish, brush hogging) but rototilling, grading, post holes & land plane. No FEL. Great tractor. 99% of work done in mid HST range. Sure, there have been times when I wish I had a little more power, but 33 HP ended up being about perfect. I bought a RK24 and like it for the FEL and backhoe, but 24 HP is lacking for the rest of the work. Currently looking for a new tractor and have been focused onto the Kioti CK35 or DK40. Live in a farming area and have a Kubota & JD dealer close by but service departments don't have the best reputation in my opinion. Let us know your thinking and dealings buying an upgrade. Thanks for sharing.

I have the LS version of this tractor. I don't use a box blade but pull a 7' grader blade with no trouble. I also have a 7' plow on the front I use in the winter, again, it works great and all this is on a gravel road. I think part of the issue may be you are new to this tractor and maybe the impliments? The more I use my tractor, the more capable I find it to be.

Love the video look forward to seeing what you get?

I have a JD 3039r with a 6ft box blade,6 grader blade and 5 ft Bush hog. It does fine with box blade as long as I am in 4wd but I always use low range and never feel the need for medium. I also have fluid in my back tires for added wieght which helps.

I bought the Kioti CK3510SE, it's an incredible tractor and value for all the features and capability, nothing in it's class compared. Under $20K OTD.

Im really glad i watched this vid of yours. Im just about to buy the same tractor from LS. I dont wanna make the same mistake. Thanks for posting this.

Keep it , it’s worth not having tier 4 emissions, you can’t just suck it up, the tractor won’t run when a sensor fails ,and a failed egr cooler will ruin the engine ! Stay away keep what you have power for what you are doing isn’t important, if you wanted to run a 6 foot brush cutter that’s different,just slow down and keep your 25hp.I have 3 tier 4 emissions tractors there’s always something wrong with the emissions system on one of them.

Drop your right tires down towards the right farther and lengthen your arms on the right to create the crown!!

I’d stick with it so what if you have to run in low gear and spend another couple minutes... you’ll lose money selling it and buying a bigger tractor means got to buy bigger attachments and deal with the emissions crap

I thought I would provide an update and let you how things are going with my non dpf tractor. When I traded in my L3901 tractor I decided to go with the LX2610. I absolutely love the LX2610. Now , that being said , the 3901 was certainly a fine tractor. It was a geared model with great power and of course heavy duty. But what have found through my experience around the property and in the woods is that the LX does everything That I need it to do . It’s less clumsy in the woods and it has greater ground clearance….same backhoe and just slightly smaller bucket with just a slightly lower lift capacity. To be honest…I loved the geared tractor but the LX is HST only. I’m doing okay with the hydro. She’s a beautiful machine and I couldn’t be happier.

Don't buy another new one. I have run tractors most of my life, and I would never unless I needed the write off. Last year I shopped tractors and came to understand exactly what you discovered the hard way about buying new. I shopped used in the end and found a New Holland TC45DA with a cab, heat, AC, radio new tires and some scratches and character. I got in it under $20,000. They're out there, and you'll be happy you did. Remember that tractor, like your driveway is repairable. The factory warranty isn't very long for such an investment anyhow. Treat it right, and it'll be a reciprocal relationship. Cheers.

I can definitely see where that could be an issue. I have a 1025R and it has plenty of power for most work and 25hp seems like a good fit, but there are still times where I can task it a bit. It will pull up a barn ramp in high range no problem. I can definitely see 25HP in that heavy/large of a machine to be potentially annoying at times. I do love the 1025R around the yards though, my other tractor is a Kioti RX7320 and it's too big for a lot of stuff. I think it'd be really hard to pick a "one size fits all"!

The real problem is it's a HST if it was a clutch model it would pull! You lose to much with hst at 25hp!

We have a Kubota L3240 with a LA724? loader,6' bucket. We had our dealer put a hyd. upper arm and one side of the lift arms.This is my second tractor with this setup this way, the first was a used Kubota. That makes it real easy to adjust from the set. You can put a crown on your road and adjust the cut of the blade.

I run a 76 year old N series frankentractor, 5 ft box blade brush cutter rake and a 6.5 ft disc harrow. No problem, it's slow but it's a tractor. Also, I'd love to have that NH 25hp.

Your tractor is built by LS tractor out of korea . I have one as well bought New Holland as you have similar story as yours but I've also found out the same engine is placed in several different horse power tractors . I let the LS shop have the tractor for a week and that mechanic made adjustments and now my 25 hp tractor is putting out 32. I wished that I would of found this dealer before I bought a New Holland and bought the LS from this dealer ,I would of saved 3000 on the original purchase. Good luck with what ever you decide. I love this tractor thank god I now found a decent dealership to service it !

It is a nice machine, but you may be right about the power. The rule of thumb for a PTO driven implement is 5 hp per foot. with 18 PTO hp, a 4 ft implement would be about all you can handle. Have you ever watched a professional with a road grader? It's always slow, slow on final grade. The only time I've seen a grader go fast is when we were raising the grade over a distance, then they would quickly smooth out a dump truck and trailer's spread, followed by rolling compactors, circle back to smooth the next truck load , over and over. I have a similar size tractor, a 27 hp Ford 1715 and it does fine with a 5' box blade most of the time. About crowning the road, I adjust the side link so that the blade is a bit more aggressive on the right and it moves a little material towards the center and go up one side and down the other a couple of times then smooth it out with a drag harrow.

Great video, you honest conversation about needs and power probably saved many from making the same mistake. I'm taking away from this video how important a demo would of been. You could of tried it on for size and realized you needed the next size up. Good vid subscribing based on your thought process and honesty.

Thanks for your honest opinion and great info.

I went from a Deere 1025R up to a Deere 2038R for the same reason you’re dealing with. The 38hp is a world of difference from the 25. I didn’t want to deal with the emissions issues either but in the last two years it’s not been an issue at all. Good luck!

I have a Kioti 25 hp and will usually run the box blade in low. It does take a little longer but eanted to stay away from the diesel emissions. In general the 25 hp will get most jobs done just like a 35 h will.

I’m very happy with my Kioti CK4010 HST. It’s 2 years old now and has 325 hrs. But with that being said you need a good dealer with any tractor you buy.

I wish I had seen this video a few weeks ago. I would have suggested you check out the Branson 2400 gear drive. The gear drive is exponentially much stronger than the hydrostatically drive. The Branson 2400 is the very best sub-compact tractor on the market today. But, I guess I just missed this opportunity. Sorry.

I've put 1500 hours on a 13-year old JD4310, similar size and hp to the 3033 (30 engine, 28 pto). HST, loader, removable frame-mounted backhoe ( that I seldom use), tiller, box blade, wood chipper, rear snowblower. Yanmar engine, in fact, Yanmar built the whole thing and JD added green plastic and paint! Everything is done in mid-range. In fact, I can't even use high range for level roads! As soon as it hits a slight grade it just bogs down. We have lots more extreme hills here (CT) than what I see in your video. That said, I sold it to a neighbor and bought a 59-hp Yanmar cab tractor to replace it. Yesterday I plowed/snowblowed my property in high range! So nice! No substitute for hp. I might go higher than the 3033 if it was going to be your last tractor. You won't regret it a year down the road.

I have a 3039r. I almost went with a 3033r, but I wanted the turbo. The turbo will give that extra power when you really need it and want it. No regrets at all. I have a 6’ rear finish mower, 5’ brush hog, 5’ box scraper, grapple, forks, and just bought a rototiller for it, but haven’t used it yet. It does everything from snow removal to mowing my grass. Never ran out of power or wish I would of bought more. I would by the same tractor again today. Everyone is gonna have their opinion on what to buy. If you do go with the Deere I’d just recommend the 320 loader, it has more lifting power.

If you are still looking and not set on one yet, just for your curiousness have a look at bobcats new small tractor selection it just might fit what your looking for .as for your gravel road look into a 3pl angle blade with wheels that way you can pull the edges into the center. The box blade is mainly for fixing holes and finishing

I am in the market for a compact tractor and have seriously looked at the workmaster 25 gear the jd 3025d and the massy 1835e. It is 35 hp with more features than the deere and 10 more hp for the same price as the deere. I am typically a deere guy and currently use deere now, but honestly am very very impressed with the feature set and weight of the Massy. You might want to check them out.

I have not noted the option to buy a low hour used larger tractor. That way you can escape the diesel emission issue.

With a Piss burner you will need plenty of Dealer support. B.T.W. you can put a crown on with a box blade by simply adjusting the adjustable lower size link of your 3 point. I love my box blade.

My machine is 67hp, 8000 lbs, (1968 Ford 5000) and with the 7' Land Plane, I can get to situations where the box is full up and the tractor's tires are starting to slip. HP alone isn't always the answer. In total I have 8 gears, 4 in high and 4 in low. Typically I only use 1-3 in low range unless I'm just driving. Seriously, you don't want to be moving fast when doing the work. That said, knowing I have the power to work hard is nice. I'm glad I opted to go bigger than I initially thought. Best advice is to try the tractor as much as the dealer will allow and then go for the HP in the size that seems best to fit.

Thank you buddy

Trade it in. You'll think about it everyday if you don't do it now. Take the hit and get the biggest power you can in the same tractor.

I have a JD 1025R, use it on my gravel 300 yard drive way. I use only a 4 foot box blade, works great, quick tach loader, and 5 foot landscape rake. I also use it to aerate about 75 lawns a year. So I need a small narrow tractor. I had a JD 1026R for 8 years, sold it on Craigslist with 600 hours on it for almost what I paid for it. John Deere tractors have the best resale value, and some day you will want to change or upgrade HP. Good Luck.

If I were you I would take a really good look at the john deer 2038r I have one and love it mowing/grading/plowing/and tilling , even pulled 10ft rottery cutter Have had all kinds of fun with it and even out worked my buddy on his3039 just food for thought.

All these videos say 25 hp is great and I was not sure. Sorry for your issues, but glad you shared this info.

I had been looking around and based on experience with a Kubota L3400, I knew I wanted at least 40. I finally found a 2018 LS MT345E with only 63 hours on it. LS made New Holland for over 30 years so they're nearly identical (also most parts interchange). Anyway, got the tractor (comes with a LL4105 loader), Land Pride 60" box blade, 6' Modern galvanized brush cutter, and Land Pride pallet forks for $16,500. It's still a compact with a fairly small footprint but will yank the world around and power many attachments with the 3rd function. It's a beast. I'll never go less than 40 ever again.

My first tractor was a 25hp gear drive that was very basic. It was a deal I couldn't refuse that was tough as nails, and a great trainer. But it was undersized for what I wanted to do. I made it work by taking my jobs in smaller bites. I had an opportunity to upgrade 2 years ago. I sold my 25hp to a neighbor and bought a LS XR4145HC. I'd been drooling over the New Holland Boomer series for years and was looking at them again until I discovered the Boomers/Workmasters are built by LS in a joint venture but are significantly more expensive. There are some cosmetic differences but essentially the same tractor. I think it all boils down to what you are trying to accomplish, how tight are the places you need to work in, and how much bang you want for your buck. I know eventually I'll buy another 25hp for smaller jobs like trail maintenance but I'm keeping the 45hp for bigger jobs like tree farm maintenance, firewood and saw milling.

Probably needs an f350 and a 14k lb trailer to haul his 3k lb tractor. 🤣

I have a JD 790. 30 hp, 24 pto Hp. Never have had an issue with power pulling any implement in high gear. . Std trans. Two speed. I would recommend the higher hp.

My tractor is an LS G3033H which comes down the same assembly tract as did the New Holland. Mine doesn't have those emissions either. As far as tractors go I live close to LS dealer, Kubota, Deere and Bobcat. But I wanted a package deal to where I didn't want to travel to get it. John Deere and Kubota were actually almost out of state for a package deal. The deal was the tractor, an equipment trailer, box blade or mower.

IDK man I bought same tractor last February with a gear drive and I’ve put 120 ish hours on it and I’ve worked it pretty hard. I pull a 6ft box blade, 6ft landscape rake and 64in rear snowblower. We had a little over a foot of snow this week and it tore through it like nothing. I only use high range driving down the road and medium for traveling thru the yard I’m in low range doing any kind of pulling or heavy loader work. I had the same theory as you buy getting something simple with no emissions junk on it. The work master 35/40 just has more HP the loaders and 3pt are the same. Sound like maybe you should just jump up to the work master 50 and get double the HP and have more lifting capacities on both ends. Then u can pull or easily run anything you will ever wanna put behind it. Can never have to much power that would be what u would upgrade to. Other then maxing out my 66in tooth bucket that’s all it couldn’t do that I asked out of it

I have an older 1984 Ford 1710 26 HP tractor I am amazed at the difference between it and a new New Holland Workmaster 25 hp. My Ford 1710 Manual transmission I only lose 2-1/2 HP at the PTO and the New Holland Hydrostatic Transmission you lose 8HP. My ford 1710 pulls a box blade with no problem If you stay small you might want to look at a manual trans with a shuffle shift

I have a nh 35hp have 1500 hours on it now absolutely love it plenty of power never have had an issue with it. I have a 7 foot front snowblower for the winter and live in the hills I’ve had to put chains front and back and it gets the job done with no problem. In the summer I have a loader and can out lift both of my neighbors tractors ones a kubota 45hp and the other is a Deere the nh I love the sloped hood because with the loader you can see so much better than either of the other two tractors plus I have way more options than them and was less money. Plus if you adjust your arms on the 3pt you can put a beautiful crown on that driveway just start close to the center and work your way out on both sides and before very long you’ve got a nice crown

I have a John Deere 2038R end it has the turbo Diesel in it it’s a two series but I have no complaints I have a 59 inch snowblower on it and a belly more on it Plus I have a grapple works awesome and my tires are loaded and I have wheel weights as well and a ballast Box Best tractor I ever bought

I’m interested in that tractor. I don’t need anymore hp. How much

It sounds u like the tractor. Keep it. You are going to take a bath on depreciation. Take the depreciation hit savings and buy a big used tractor with no bucket. 2x drive 50-60 hp will mow nice and pull a box blade. Best of both worlds. Take your time and find a good used machine that is easy to maintain.

I want to keep this tractor for ever but I’m going to trade it in with 6 hours instead

Nice explanation.

I find the lack of power interesting because a huge number of sub 30 hp tractors have been sold over the last few years. Yours is the first I’ve heard lacking power to run a box blade. (Obviously size appropriate implements make a difference) I have a B2650 and have not ran into a power issue yet. I would imagine NH makes a great tractor like Kubota and John Deere. Is there 2 or 3 range speeds? That might be something to consider as you look at other tractors. Hope you find the right tractor for your needs.

If you do very much box blading you need to get a top and tilt kit for the three-point hitch.

I think you just got too small of tractor if you expected more

I have a kubota L2501 and I use a 2 bottom plow with it and It’s cutting the ground like butter!

Hydraulic top link makes a box blade a totally different tool. Way better than a land plane.

I can't comment about a JD or NH but I'm a contractor and use my equipment for hire. I have had a 26hp Kubota (B26, pre-emission) for about 8 years. I have the backhoe for it but since purchasing my mini excavator, the Kubota doesn't get used with the backhoe much anymore. I run a 5' box grader with 300 lbs of additional weight, 5' pulverizer (gill), 5.5' tiller (used to work up existing lawns where the ground is REALLY hard not like a garden that gets worked every year and my slip clutch will kick out before the engine bogs down), 6' wide home made I-beam drag for driveways, 6' Kasco Grade-n-seed (combo of a box grader, gill, landscape rake, drop seeder, and cultipacker) that weighs about 1400 lbs. I run in mid range almost all the time except when tilling or traveling. Low for tilling and high for traveling and also putting the finishing touches on driveways (I do a lot of them) when I want to make the last pass to pretty everything up. The only time I complain about lacking on power is when I'm pushing the hydro harder than I should while operating the loader simultaneously. But when you're working for hire, you tend to do that. I haven't watched any of your other videos so I really don't know much about your experience but could your technique be to blame or the tractor not putting out the horsepower it's supposed to? In mid range, I almost always lose traction (even with loaded tires) before I run out of power. Maybe have it checked under warranty. I've never had even close to an issue of the tractor not having enough power to pull a hill when roading it and I work areas with some significant hills.

Good video.

I have a 34 hp 4 wheel drive Massey Ferguson, hydro transmission. Had it For a year now, got 140 hrs on it. I mow with 5 ft bush hog with no problem at all. Also I have 72” box blade it seems to pull it fine too. No problem pulling disc and single point plow

I kind of had the same problem. I purchased a 1025r TLB because of size to work in the horse barn. When I started to work my 1/4 mile long driveway with a 60" box blade everything worked pretty good until I hit the hill. Just not enough horse power. I was looking around for a larger tractor. The large 2 series I passed right on by because the wheel base is the same as the 3 series, I don't like the rear axel design, and I don't like the looks. In the next state over I found a 3 year old with 80 hrs. 3046r TL at a John Deere dealer. I was out the door for $27,000. It has rear remote, mid PTO, air ride seat, and the largest 4R tires. The tractor was sitting with the new ones and I couldn't tell the difference until I looked at the hour meter. They said some old guy owned it(LOL I'm 72). The 3r series are real tractors. If you are stopped and get off the tractor on reasonable level ground, you get off the tractor. It won't move and you don't have to shift anything. You will find that with a properly ballasted 3r series tractor (6,000 to 7,000 lbs.) that you will destroy light duty implements. I had several Titan implements for the 1025r that are now bent up because of the 3046r from normal use. I do not abuse my equipment, but just under normal use if you hit a root that would stop the 1025r, not so much with the 3046r. Good luck in your search.

I did a lot of research before I bought my new Kubota 3301L (33 horse) series with a hydrostatic transmission. It is very dependable, works great with a big brush hog, and box blade. I cleared my hilly 5.5 acre property that was full of huge sage brush trees (three to four inch trunks with no problems. I would not recommend a John Deere as the differential is aluminum and the hood/fenders are plastic. New Holland appears to be good and Mahindra as well.

Sorry you are having trouble. I did tons of research.....went and drove JD, Mahindra, LS, Kioti. Etc.I wound up with a Kubota b2601......26 hp weighing about 2000 lbs with the rear tires loaded. I have no trouble pulling a 5 foot box blade or running 5 foot cutter. My only wish is for a little more lift capacity on the fel. Good luck

My little John Deere 1025r does pretty much anything I need. Yes they are limited but I can go places the big tractors can’t. It runs every category 1 implement I’ve ever put on it.

I wish I had seen this a yr ago😔 Tractor Time with Tim got me😑

Sounds like you're doing your research. Look closely at the Kioti CK3510SE. Very impressed with mine so far. A work horse. The JD 3033R way more expensive and has less features. Kubota L series close to the same price but not even close to the features of the Kioti CK.

Need more weight and larger frame size, not just HP. You can look at LS as well, practically the same as the New Holland. I have a Kioti, It's the RX 7320 and I love it. Been a great machine

I use a box blade with my 1952 8n -have no problems. I don't understand why you pull yours with filled with so much material , I never let mine get that full and seems to work well.

15 year old NH TC26DA going to be traded in on new Workmaster 40 this week. PTO was plenty powerful enough to run 60 inch RFM in low range, and our land is too uneven to mow in high anyway, but the extra PTO of the 40 hp machine will run my chipper-shredder much better, and a bigger bucket by about 15" and stronger loader will be much appreciated as well. Having 5' implements for the 26, I couldn't go any more than 40 hp without being too big for the implements to cover the wheels, plus the jump to the next level from 40hp is a big one in both the NH and Kubota realms, probably more so in NH because the NH 50 is a larger machine and probably more capable than the Kubota L4701, more like an MX, probably overall. Two ranges in HST is not enough.. I"ve been longing for a third range much more than for a more powerful tractor.

Crown it with your box, crank your arm height ratio on one side.

Buying a larger tractor is sometimes not the best decision. The particulate filter regeneration requires the tractor to be used hard.. Your current tractor appears to handle your grading task just fine. The driveway should have had Geotextile fabric put down before the crusher run was laid down it prevents the mud & fines from percolating up sending the large stones down below the surface.

Those tractors are essentially a lawn mower with a bucket. I can see their purpose but if spending the money I want something that is able to handle general tasks.

50 hp minimum...buy once, cry once.

I have the ls version of your tractor and I am extremely happy with mine the 25 horsepower if you would have got a standard shift transmission would have had all kinds of Power but the hydrostatic robs from the power but each to their own if you don't want your work Master send me a link on here and I'll buy it from you

I made the same mistake an bought rhe 25 hp and it wasnt enough,so I called dealer and he let me trade up to the 35 hp and mine had 10 hours on it and he give me my money back,every penny so I bought the 35H,but one thing you should know is LS ownes and builds new holland,look on the plate on back of tractor under fuel tank and it will tell you,I bought an xg3025h and he let me trade for the XR3135H and mine is a beast compaired to the 25,bucket lift is 2200 pounds tracter with tires filled is about 5000 pounds and it is loaded with features ,2 rear remotes work light extendable links tilt wheel draft control and a whole lot more,big thick rubber floor mat and I saved about 4000 k in dollars going with LS,because they are the same tractor,also tire width on rear tires are about 10 to 12 inches wider than john deer ,more stable,mine has 40 hours on it and it has not gone through a regin yet,check out LS and see what you think,I went to new holland first then went to LS,I got a backhoe with mine but I still saved a lot of money ,GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR CHOICE!!!

Plus you loose horse power with the hydrostatic transmission. Shuttle trans better for draft work.

Thats where hst really hurt. They are nice but rob a lot of power. I got a 1985 mitsubishi 2201fd, 28hp/22 pto hp. I got 12 gears to keep me in a sweet spot(9 forward,3 reverse). For a little tractor it really impresses me

I feared the same, but my l2501 has really impressed. It’s hard to make her work. Must be the torque

Transmission symbols: L = Loader M= Mower H= Highway Boxblade should be in Low. I have a new MT225S and it has been great for boxblade and snow removal.

I realize that I am 3 years too late but the simple solution to your problem could be a rechip or reprogram your existing chip. The engine you have could potentially produce 40 horsepower but it was reprogrammed to be 25 horsepower to get under the emissions barrier. Art from Ohio

Look at the land plane. They will put a crown on your driveway. I'm looking at the 3033r power reverse and the RK37 shuttle shift. I like putting as much power to the ground as possible. Good luck with your shopping.

Need to tack your RPMs up if you want to use all 25hp.

Emissions are beyond a nightmare. Pull a smaller box blade. You can probably make adjustments to the 3 point to make it pull easier. Also for light grading use a land plane, they require less power.