I hope you enjoy this long-awaited and much-requested video and understand that it's not possible to cover every nuance of classic car engine out there. I look forward to reading all your comments and feedback as always, and if there are some common threads then we may well look at doing a follow-up episode.

Wow. A nearly 20 minute video about no more than starting an engine and it isn't boring for a single second. Who else can manage that?

Very instructive. Everyone should know how to start a Lamborghini Miura. You don't want to be caught off guard when the situation presents itself!!

Thank you very much for this video! Maybe this could be the start of a "how-to-series". For part two of this video, please show how to drive a car that has just been started from cold until it is properly warmed through. And here is another video idea: How to store your car for long periods and avoid/minimize damage from just sitting. Greetings from Germany!

What a great Sunday evening; I just saw Harry Metcalfe’s video with Iain and now another one with Iain

Absolutely spot on. Thats all the things i was also taught during my apprenticeship with SAAB. Working on old V4's and early 99's. It always used to make me shudder when watching Wheeler Dealers of old, and Ed China would start up an old car and just rev the pants off it. I would be screaming at the TV !!.

Great video. Most of the issues with start up wear disappear if you run the engine on LPG instead of petrol. It's a big urban myth that engines won't start cold on LPG, actually the complete opposite is true, no enrichment required and they start instantly. Because the fuel always enters the engine fully vaporised even from cold, no bore washing occurs. Additionally because the fuel supply can be turned on/off instantly (not possible with a carburettor) I can crank the engine on the starter without fuel until oil pressure builds, then turn on the fuel and the engine starts immediately, virtually eliminating the bearing wear problem. It's a fantastic fuel for classics, I can never understand why it is so unpopular, with petrol currently £2 a litre but LPG in some places still under 70p, maybe people will wake up to it again..

I don’t own a classic car but I still watch every video because they are fascinating.

Don't worry about packing too much information in a video. We can always go back and re-watch sections we haven't understood. These videos are invaluable, thank you.

Iain this was brilliant. You packed a huge amount of information into 20 mins and not only explained how to do it properly, but also why.

Hi Lain , You have no idea how much I appreciate your channel , and this particular tutorial on starting/worm up engines. Since young age I had interest in cars and engine functionality. Just as I personal prospective, and by nature been over carrying for my personal stuff, I developed an interest on extending engine life, especially if I build it, . I then search into this subject, after experience at work, during maintenance on a paint industry, on the routing starting of a generator, every six months, just for to keep it in good working other . This is a big ex little ship four Cylinders diesel engine where I used to walk between the Cylinders, and the conrods where exposed. Before occasionally starting it, we used to pressurize the engine oil with a "not a small V8 diesel engine", that in turns (because itself also wasn't started often), with the add of a hand pump, we used to PRELUBRICATE IT , and create an oil pressure in to it before starting it...... Say no more!!! Since then, I starting research in engine pre lubrication, and I Found this video on big container ships engines starting, to witch no matter how big the oil pump would be, by the time the oil would lubricate the critical parts and Create a (CUSHION OF OIL BEARING), the engine would almost disintegrate in no time!! Since then and still in my younger age, whenever I rebuild an engine, I create a secondary oil pic up, from the oil pan "between the crankshaft", ( but not necessary from there), it could be a pic up from the oil pan as well, as long not from the very bottom or dirty oil would be picked up). Then sucking engine oil trough a filter (of any car brand) into of any OUTSIDE Block gallery, with a quality non return valve, ( because once the engine will fire, (if without the non return valve), it will loose oil pressure back to the oil sump) On my last beautiful Ford V8 351 cu", engine , I used a forklift pump, it happened to be a 24 Volts pump, ( but it don't have to be a big electric motor, a simple and small one would do.) In my case it was convenient because it has a gear pump already attached to it. all I had to do was to attached a small (Toyota) oil filter with an after market attachment, on to the same gear pump and no matter how long the engine hasn't been started,....... in a few seconds of the electric switch activation , the oil pressure goes sky high , and when subsequently I start the engine, it starts as smooth as a baby bump, without hydraulic lifters noise as they usually do make noise well after 12/15 hours the engine hasn't been running, if no pre pressurising the engine.. I know by facts of the big difference, as I only can tall the difference. As a matter of facts, this pre lubrication/pressure, pump it only needs to be operated only once daily, usually in the morning, (or after years stud still). This is the crucial time needed, to keep the engine lubricated before initial starting after approx.. a 15 hours rest......! Thinking that we got in the past to remove the distributor before engine starting after long engine rest, and spinning the oil pump with a drill, (on here we could of course) and after reassembling the distributor , tuning again the engine. When I was a very young fallow in Italy , I learned way Alfa Romeos would take their time for the engine starting. I am going back in the late 50s. The reason is because they have a simple and very affordable oil pressure switch that would delay the electric power to reach the spark plugs until the oil pressure would close the contacts . The same electric switch used by regulation on any ricing cars today operating electric pumps in case they roll over, to stop the petrol, or any combustible fuel to continuing pumping. Easy to purchase it from any ricing car industries. From $ 80.00 to $150.00, circa, the work all just as good!! it won't pressurize the engine like a pump such, but at list lubricate the engine ready for the conrod smashing the big ends bearings !! How much you LOVE your engine, since the major wearing is when you starting it????

If only I'd known at the time that my BL Marina wasn't supposed to start when you turned the key in the morning, needing to crack the motor over for several minutes before it started was in fact a design feature to prevent premature engine wear, as was the need to apply copious amounts of WD40 to the engine compartment the surplus oil enhanced the rust proofing filled the cabin with that unmistakable WD40 aroma! Being serious an ignition kill switch might be useful as it would allow you to crank the engine over building up some oil pressure before starting and if hidden under the dash could double as a cheap anti theft device. This has to be my favourite KZfaq motoring channel every episode is a joy to watch and boy oh boy what a stellar line up of classic cars.

Dear Mr. Tyrrell, greetings from Germany. Yet again, you have regaled your audience with a flawless and clear explanation on a vital point of practical knowledge, that every owner of an oldtimer vehicle should have. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, in your poised and gentle manner. With kind regards, TH

If you have an old fashioned immobiliser as was fitted in the 80s/90s, activate it, turn the engine over several times, deactivate and start the engine which allows the oil to be primed around the engine

Great advice and entertaining as always. Having grown up with a car with choke my dad told me the same thing, choke in as soon as possible to avoid engine damage with overly rich mixture. I found the Lamborghini Miura without choke particularly interesting, maybe also because it has been my dream car for years. Sadly I would not fit in one at 6'7 and am also not rich enough to afford one, but it is maybe the most beautiful car ever made.

Great stuff. I have always resisted temptation when starting any engine. Always been mindful of the oil circulation. I had a neighbour with a lovely sounding throaty V8 TVR, but he knew nothing about cars. For several years he would start it from cold and instantly fling it up to very high revs like a teenage boy. Then before it even had chance to warm up, he'd switch it off. An hour later did it again. He did this multiple times per day each summer weekend for several years. Eventually, it went from sounding really sweet to sounding like a washing machine full of knives and forks. He has not started it for at least 5 years now. I am certain he trashed the bearings. I am also certain it was for all the reasons Ian describes here. Great video.

Fascinating video Iain, you took me right back about 45 years to my first office job working with an old boy who was keen on cars. I remember he regaled me one quiet afternoon with a long explanation of how Ettore Bugatti would insist owners of his cars should run first lukewarm, then progressively hotter water through the block, hand pump the oil pressure up, and only then attempt to start the engine!

On something that's stood long time it can be worth taking the plugs out and spinning the engine on the starter until the oil pressure comes up, then put the plugs back in to start. That way there's no compression so very little load on the bearings. Of course, this does depend on the car being one designed for fairly easy access to the plugs

Glad I found this channel and particularly this video! Fantastic content! Feel free to take note of my U-toob handle name and you’ll understand as to why I am OCD about engine start up procedures. I bought a 3.5hp lawn mower years ago for $150 and modified the throttle to allow for a healthier warm-up procedure. Last weekend I coached a friend on starting his 2-stroke 6cyl boat engine regarding tapping the electric choke button to keep it running just after starting as on many engines like those die if the choke is on for an extra few seconds and die with the choke off for a few seconds. A TRUE ART FORM!

This was the first but I bet not the last time I watched this. Essential viewing.

For a car that’s sat awhile, I was taught to disconnect the coil and crank the engine, while counting to 5 then stop for a few seconds. Repeat this until pressure shows on the oil pressure gauge (to keep over stressing the starter). Then reconnect the coil, set the choke and start the car. You can then set off, but do not over rev until the temp gauge begins to move. I follow this procedure on my 1965 TR4A.

Please don't ever feel the need to condense things, I could listen all day 😅 awesome stuff!

Most important video I’ve seen regarding car care on KZfaq!!! Thank you so much!

Brilliant! I have heard of quite a few folks who put "pre-oilers" on their engines. Basically an electric oil pump that pressurizes the system before the engine starts, to ensure proper lubrication.

The biggest factor in engine wear in my experience is oil quality. Oil choice and age can be what kills an engine (and usually is, long before cold starts come into play). Good video though, I learned why the nearest bearing fails finally! I always put it down to dirt getting though the pump but that makes sense too.

Good info. Many of these tips are also appropriate to Lycoming & Continental piston aircraft engines. At 1:45 Iain says on cold start "engines need a much lower fuel to air ratio". I think the intent is the opposite: more fuel, less air. A richer mixture is higher fuel to air ratio, lower air to fuel ratio.

I fitted a normally closed switch in the coil primary of my Lotus. This gave me the option of inhibiting ignition on cold starts to allow the oil to be cranked around.

As an owner of a TR-250 this video was informative and useful....Thanks

I feel obligated to wear suit watching your videos Mr. Tyrrell!

With the benefit of an oil pressure gauge I pull the HT lead and crank a few seconds with choke in until the gauge registers some pressure then pop lead back in, pull choke (if needed) and start. Its good starting a journey with dirty hands!

It's great to see someone knowledgeable addressing the subject of oil starvation upon cold start up, and the dynamics are similar for practically all types of engines. I first was introduced to this topic during my stint as the driver of a touring top sportsman/pro modified drag racing team. When I was to start the engines, I had to crank the engine on the starter until the oil pressure gauge sustained at least 30 lbs of pressure for about 10 seconds, then hit the ignition and fuel switches to light off the engine.

My mate, who lived about 2 doors away at the time, was a mechanic..He aquired a 'Pre Start Engine Oiler' device, that was plumbed into your oil line..about the size of a jar of Horlicks..when the engine was running it filled up with oil, but when you switched the engine off, a solenoid shut and your oil was kept within device..Upon switching on the ignition BEFORE continuing to starti the engine, the oil was released, under pressure of course, and oiled your engine..clever..that must be 40 years ago or more, never seen one since...

Thank you so much for sharing with us your wisdom. Much of what is revealed in this video translates directly to the starting and care of small aero engines.

Thank you for taking the time and effort to document this sort information that is usually passed on only verbally by a father to a son for example. If there are any generational breaks in that information chain or something else, especially in the future it might be pretty hard for a younger generation to properly get into classic carbureted cars.

A baby blue Miura! your workshop is a Nirvana Mr Tyrrell. Having the kind of skills that garners this type of attention for the owners of these beauties, trumps being an actual owner due to the steady stream of marvels that enter your workshop. Great stuff!

I always doing those firing up systems for different carburetor and choke systems and I find them on my own experience on different cars, It is wonderful to see you showing me that those systems are correct and best for the engines. Many classic car owners think that the engine should start right away and even they start to drive before they getting worm.

An excellent piece this. I have a few things to add. Bearing lubrication is critical, but having a background in competition engines it is also important not to idle too slowly because you can take out the cam lobes unless they get a good supply of oil. The cam lobe is the most highly stressed part of an engine in terms of the contact pressure it has to bear between the sliding surfaces of the lobe and the follower. We would always get oil pressure by cranking with spark plugs removed, fire up and run at around 2500 to 3000rpm with no load on the dyno until fully warm. A road cam profile won't be quite so demanding, so I agree with your lower rev advice for a standard engine. The worst (other terrible engines are available) offender here was the Pinto which had its camshaft suspended in mid air, miles from any oil supply (OK, they did eventually fit an oil spray bar but they were still notorious for knocking out cam lobes), whereas modern 16V engines generally leave the cam lobes and followers sitting in a nice puddle of oil once the engine is turned off. Incidentally, the easiest engine I ever dealt with here was the works Chevette HS engine. We ran an external oil pump driven by a belt and it was a simple matter to slip the belt off and turn the pump with a speed brace on the dyno - full oil pressure and the engine hasn't even been turned over! You will have confused some viewers at 10:40 when you said there were no chokes, but all 12 chokes needed fuelling! The cold start choke is a completely different item to the venturi choke in the carb barrel - but you know that anyway. Just pointing it out for anyone just learning. One thing that you covered rather briefly here is what you do with the throttle. I've lost count of the number of times I've seen someone start an engine from cold and then constantly blip the throttle to let the revs shoot up and down. Sounds great, but to anyone who knows what they're doing they just look like an ignoramus. Even some people who should know better have been seen to do this. Whether you have an ancient or modern, almost all engines have transient enrichment to richen things up as the throttle is blipped. An old engine will have a throttle pump and a modern will have an enrichment curve in the software. This is a disaster for bore and piston ring wear. The only engine I know of without this enrichment is in my lawnmower and that's a bugger to raise the revs on without it stalling.

FINALLY an expert tells it how it is. Ive tried to explain this to young techs and ppl and they just dont get it. As new cars rade to warm up so fast for emissions its basically not an issue. Yet older and vintage cars 100% should warm up b4 loading the engine hard

I love these videos. I have been lucky enough to work on lots of classics some of which you often feature. I hope everyone in your workshop knows how lucky they are to be able to just touch let alone work on some of these rare and valuable beasts ❤

This is so beautiful, you could really tell that it is a subject close to Iains heart and that he stressed getting this information across in the right way. Thank you!

Please do a follow up because people love information like this and it was really interesting and thanks for taking time to make the video

Thank you Iain. This is very helpful and valuable information.

Thanks for taking the time and sharing the importance of oil priming!!

This is paradise for all classic cars enthusiasts. Thanks to Iain for making this possible. Your expertise is unmatched. Nothing can compete with experience.

Thank you,Sir Ian! This information is so valuable for us classic car drivers.

I love your green frames. I got some after seeing yours and now there's less confusion in my world. Cheers

My motorbike has a manual choke. Thanks to this video, I will give the cold engine a few turns and THEN open the choke for a proper start!

This was excellent thank you. Learnt so much and I never realised the differences and reasons why.

Enjoyed this, always good to learn something new. I think you did a good job or explaining it all as its a quite complex subject with all the different variations of engines and such. I do remember people recommending a Accusump for older cars as it can pressurize the oil from start so its always starting with better oil flow and also those block heaters they have in colder climates to pre heat the engines can be useful too.

Elegant dismount! Thanks for recording Jonathon 👍

Brilliant instruction on the principles of oil circulation. I was instructed on this at a very young age by my Dad, a mechanic, who used to make and shave, individual shell bearings, by hand, for every engine he rebuilt for customers in the 1930's. Even in the depths of Scottish winters did I use a choke on the first few turns of an engine. When I were a lad in the early 70's, the weapon of choice was the virtually indestructible A series, but I still gave it a few churns without the choke before starting it. I have no control today with my diesel VW Tiguan other than not nailing the throttle on start up, however, being a turbocharged engine, the switch off procedure is almost as important as the start up in a classic car. Give your turbo car a few seconds of idle before switching off to allow the insanely hot oil in the turbo to be replaced with some cooler oil from the system.

I have to admit, I’m not a wrench at all but absolutely love these. Could watch for hours.

I put a programmable ecu on my 80s bmw engine and I found that it started extremely quickly and the oil pressure light was on for a bit to long once it started. So I told the ecu to skip the first few ignition events so it cranks a few times and the light goes out just as it starts- similar to as you describe on tbe Bentley.

When I get my restoration finished, with its rebuilt engine, got all this to consider. Not just starting a classic engine but also running it in.

Great video, very informative!! I am going to re-watch this a few times.

Sunday mornings are for relaxing. Watching you educate us on the finer points or owning and operating classic cars is as good a way as any to start the day.

Great advice, works equally well for classic bikes too.

Absolute masterclass, enjoyed every second. Always a joy, can't wait for more awesome stuff.

you give great pleasure in letting us viewers participate in your tremendous knowledge, thank you for the contribution Sir

That was just fantastic to hear about what you said! My dad's car had an automatic choke! My present car has an automatic choke! thank you so much for that info!

Another really great video thank you Iain. ❤️

I enjoyed it very much, such a great explanation how engine warms up, I never heard that car manufacturers purposely crank 3 or 4 times to allow the oil pump work first before starting, very interesting

I pull the hall sensor("Hallgeber") cable/plug at the distributor - in the belief that it not only cuts off the ignition but also the fuel injection ? (on a mid nineties VW T4 petrol engine with a "Digifant" VW fuel injection system) I unplug the hall sensor plug directly at parking it, if I don't plan to use the car again soon. It protects me from forgetting to "prime" the oil pressure and gives a small additional theft protection. My starting procedure consists in two times cranking until 3 seconds after the oil pressure light has come off. And yes, thank you so much: love the moments when you pass the threshold of default knowledge. Instead of a sonic boom it unshunnable dimples thousands of smiles, I imagine. Regards from Zürich p.s.: I'm running an 80AH battery with "EFB" (= Enhanced Flooded Battery) technology used/developed for start-stop functionality, instead of the 60AH standard type battery the two litre came with from the factory. The 80AH EFB has the physical dimensions of an 100AH standard lead battery. But it gives a very healthy cranking power even after long standstills and also saves me the leisure battery circuit, since I can easily run an engel compressor fridge (with its cut out voltage set to "HI"=11.5Volts)of of it for two days.

Very informative. This will be one to watch again in the future

An excellent, informative video. Thank you.

Another fabulous videos on this channel and on Harry's garages!!!

Thoroughly enjoyed this video Ian! Great job!

Thank you for this summary video. Ever since you mentioned you are going to record the video about Vintage car warm procedure. And even going through per engine type is great! Thank you once more.

Undoubtedly one of the best channels on KZfaq 👍

Very informative & very well made as usual. Now, just need to get myself a Lamborghini Miura and I'm set to go!

This is a fantastic episode! Interesting detail about the bearings closest to the pump wearing the most.

Agree 100%. It's amazing how many will still argue the point. Great work!!

A long awaited video but so worth the wait. Utterly immersive to watch, fascinating stuff indeed, thank you Iain!

Jonarhan was filming this! An extremely informative video, I understand that your expectation to this technical video is high. I could listen to you explaining this, and other technical things for hours!

Thank you for the really factual video, as a classic car owner I’ve always heeded advice on cold starts. I always keep the revs just above 1000rpm during warm up. Mine has an oil pressure gauge invaluable in knowing when the engine is actually warm. I never rev it when cold. Enjoyed a 20 minute video on how to start an engine. Thank you Sir.

Many many thanks Mr. Tyrrell for another fantastic video. Your videos are such a pleasure to watch. You speak clearly, informatively and you have a unique style in which you convey your knowledge to the viewer. If I owned a classic car and lived in the UK...well my car would certainly be placed in your most capable hands for attention. Kindest regards, gerhard from eltham, australia

Some modern engine management systems incorporate a flood-start sequence. For a dead start after a long rest, hold the throttle to the floor and crank. The engine will turn but NOT start as long as the throttle is fully open as fuel delivery is bypassed. (Obviously, not something to try with a carbureted car). Start the engine normally once the clatter sounds "normal".

Thank you for this VERY useful tips that no one else usually talks about, despite engine cold start it is so important !

Another really informative and insightful video. Great content and such a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the video's and keep up the great work...

All good advice. With so many cars being used infrequently it is worth taking the extra effort to warm them correctly. It is also well worthwhile circulating oil in between fire-ups too - much easier on starting-handle equipped cars but getting the engines turned over every week or two reduces the chance of seizure.

The discussion about oil pressure makes me think of Jay Leno's Hispano Suiza that has a separate circuit for the oil pump, so the car can get up to full oil pressure before starting

Just another brilliant and informative video from "the master" With Harry Metcalfe's Countach in for major work as well, it's just automotive heaven !

Thank you for being so giving of your time.

Thank you so much. To give your knowledge in such a clear way. Your channel is amazing. Thanks again.

Thoroughly enjoyed this presentation Iain, the incorrect cold start routine can easily destroy a good engine. You didn't mention the "the engine lube pre charge accumulator system" that some classic owners have fitted to their vehicles. A friend of mine has that set-up on his classic MGA for cold starts, it seems to work well protecting the engine bearing surfaces.

Great to see this Iain. Hopefully some classic engines will live longer now. A tip for some more modern cars with chips in the key: use an unchipped key until the oil light goes out then start the car with your chipped key. Guaranteed instant oil pressure.

What a wonderful video. I learned lots, much obliged indeed! Cheers Nick

Thanks, Iain. A very illustrative video. I was pleasantly surprised to confirm that my father passed me the correct information, especially regarding the use of choke in old engines.

My late Father was an experimental driver for Jaguar. Leaving the choke in was the go to long life solution for the engine.

Brilliant. Excellently and intricately clarified and demonstrated all essential basics. At least now I have learnt the exact technical internal reasoning of why to start classic cars without motor management systems very carefully and as per way you have demonstrated. I’ve always indeed been told to crank those motors shortly first without actually trying to start them, for giving the oil and lubrication a good chance first. Then actually try to start the motor. Once running, absolutely not rev it but leave the combustion smoothing out at ~1500 rpm for a short while first before actually normalising the throttle. Then driving the car under a gentle load for warming up the oil, motor and fluid temperatures. All well good explained and demonstrated in all details from an internal perspective. Thank you.

What a relief, my old Carb Maserati cranks a number of times before starting, so plenty of time for oil to circulate before coming to life!

Perfectly explained, amazing channel

Excellent advice two things or may be three. 1. having the oil and water preheated before one starts a classic car. 2. Have the ability to turn the engine over before allowing it to start. And 3. not revving the "nuts" off it when it is cold.

Fantastic! I’m dumbfounded how people start their cars/motorcycles, instantly rev them, shift into gear and drive off. Worse yet, never regularly start the vehicle only to put undue stress on the battery, allow seals to dry up, carburetor/injection systems to gum and gasoline separate.

Thank you for sharing, very informative video and I learnt something as well. I'm old enough to remember when most cars had the old choke system, my father would drive 3 or 4 miles before pushing the choke in.

Fascinating, thanks for the video, really enjoyed it

Very correct. Many of my old carbureted Ferraris had chokes but it was strongly discouraged to use them, if cold the carbs simply needed to be gently pumped two or three times to prime and then tickled once the motor started and then not overrevved! On a hot start you did not touch (nor needed to) the accelerator pedal and the motor would fire up beautifully .

This is why I have a separate switch for the ignition on my SBF 302. Turn it over until oil pressure reaches 50 psi and then start it. Another way which I’m considering is an Accusump oil pressure system.

After a long sit, I often pull the coil wire so you don't get combustion with primed fuel bowls and let the engine crank over 10-15 times to get oil up out of the pan and into the engine. Once done, connect the coil and turn the key. Done.

Good Morning from beautiful Sarasota, when I lived up north I always used a block heater it keeps the engine nice and toasty for that liquid gold. Even though I had a garage connected to the house the block was always plugged in. Even my Cummins Turbo Diesel Wrecker that was parked outside was always plugged in at the end of the day. I really like watching your channel and always learn a different point of view. Thank You 🙏!!!