Cheers!

Cheers!

I think a few things made the difference. The second car had light truck all terrains which do not bag out as well in sand where as the first car has road tyres which are the best for sand. The first forester also had 1.6:1 low range vs 1.44:1 on the second. This allowed for more speed in 1st low. Also the lower weight of the second forester meant less of the engine power was used just lifting the weight of the vehicle. On the first climb the heavier car did better as it has a limited slip front diff making better suited to the undulating sand.

Nice! Just go with someone as it's an expensive exercise if something goes wrong!

Most of the video I was around 8-10psi for the final climb after the radiator hose came off I was down to under 5psi.

Similar but different. I had more trouble on calcup than the main climb at Bornholm but Josh had far more trouble on the bonrholm main climb. The second climb at Bornholm I had a huge amount of difficulty but Josh just sailed up it, was harder than Calcup for both vehicles though. Both locations change a lot but overall I would say Bornholm is more difficult by a reasonable amount.

I have never driven one but I would imagine they would do reasonably for the most part. The gearing might be a little challenging and depending on the tyre/rim size you have you may not have a heap of side wall to play with for deflating tyres. The most important thing for the sand is to let your tyres down until the driving becomes easy. If the engine is really struggling or wheels are spinning you need to go lower on the pressures. Best option is to head to the beach with another vehicle which knows what they are doing and a set of Maxtrax or similar and have a crack.

As far as I am aware they were the original gaskets in there so would have been OEM NA ones. They certainly were not the MLS turbo ones.

@@SubaruOffRoad thats why they went, i noticed theres a breather in your timing cover, must be for your air pump to stop water going in there

@@oldfashionedwrx3574 the NA engines and stock gaskets do not normally fail from combustion chamber leaks, so this was a little unusual. They had been externally weeping a tiny bit of coolant and oil for 100k km before this failure.

Best mod for sand 100% is tyre pressures. No other mod will even come close for improvement in sand driving. Second best mod is driver experience, particularly in knowing what tyre pressure to drop to and shortly followed by knowing how to drive around holes in the track that will lift diagonal wheels. A 2" lift will help with less bottoming out but given you have a single range manual increasing tyre size will probably reduce off-road performance in almost every terrain as the gearing will be too tall. I would only consider increasing tyre size if you swap a dual range transmission in.

Oh okay I get what you mean. Car currently has 215 45 r17 on so not a lot of sidewall to play with 😅

Grab a set of 16s and some 215/65r16

@@kiwizookoffroad2040 Agreed. Get some 16s or even 15s if you can find something that fits to get some more sidewall rather than get bigger diameter tyres.

From factory the Turbo auto SG or Turbo auto SH onwards with traction control are the most capable. If you get into the modified world then You would be hard pushed to find something more capable overall than my manual SG.

The car without the roof top tent had road tyres and the other had BFG ATs. Road tyres are all you need for sand.

Australia only got SOHC NA EJs. Only the turbos got DOHC.

I don't have any experience with the Diesel SH but your limitations will be gearing and how much you can deflate your tyres depending on your rim tyre combo. For this beach you would also struggle with articulation on the first exit we took.