With Ryan's kzfaq.infoUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!

Looking forward to living in my dream house! Thank you, Ryan's, for not only the initial support with your special but ongoing support through my build! kzfaq.infoUgkxe81Bz076USDt6sYU1rDcNa2LwCIKADgB Experience has been amazing so far! Made the process easy.

This is the best "how to determine load bearing walls" video that I've found on KZfaq. The explanations are often the same information, but the staging of the video, delivery of message, in coordination with each other is exactly what I needed. Great job!

Really nice man, there are a lot of videos but not of them even go into the attic or really describe it well.

If you find this video helpful, please comment and visit our website at www.idecharlotte.com ! I’m happy to answer any questions that you many have.

To put it more simply... All walls that are Perpendicular to the rafters/trusses are load bearing, whether they were designed to be or not. After 5yrs or more of the structure settling, there is now enough weight on those walls for the ceiling to drop noticeably if removed. Sometimes it's only enough to crack the ceiling sheetrock, but I have seen it drop enough to break ceiling joists. YMMV. If only moving the wall laterally a few feet (expanding one room), you're usually ok. If removing the wall entirely, a header is needed.

The key is to go into attic. Many contractors say it’s not by looking from the living room. Don’t trust them. Good job.

Wow this video is Helpful. I enjoyed it. I have a Pillar between two garage doors that i want to remove to have one 17x7 door. The joist run Parallel.

Is there a follow up video of how to temporarily support that long wall in order to install the support beam?

Thanks for the TIP Papineau! Best surprise of the day was seeing your face doing this tutorial!

Great video for the novice. I read some of the comments you received and had to chuckle about. Everything about the attic being dirty, the insulation is bad, the AC is trash. Of course it is, It's a 50 or 60 year old house. It can be fixed, cleaned, and re-insulated to R-38 (or whatever). You were identifying bearing walls and gave some good information.

If there's no bracing or splicing onto the wall but it is running perpendicular to the ceiling joists, is that load bearing?

So what’s the solution ? Does the roof need reconfigured? Or just a. Support beam added?

This video is so awesome. I tried to hire this company. Sadly they only accept jobs close to Charlotte.

So what was the weight you calculated for the joists and the rafter? Can you do a video on live and dead weight?

The other giveaway that these are load bearing is that both walls have let-in braces, those are the ones that run diagnoly across the walls. Used mostly for sheer support

Yeah this was pretty good. Pretty much exactly how I would assess it so hearing it from you was a real confidence booster. Well articulated too. Thanks!

One of the better videos on this topic. Good idea to show examples of both - well done.

Well I have the same scenario, it's an old house and the structures on the ceiling joist are about the same. The problem with it that you don't show how to resolve it. If you have a video like that on this house. Send me the link. It would be very helpful

Awesome man, I want to take out a door frame in the middle of my hallway and now I know what to look for to make sure it's safe.

This was fantastic for a rookie like me!

im in a condo and cant see on the first floor. what type of expert should i be contacting to find out?

what about a wall that goes the same way as the 2 load bearing walls that are under ceiling joists but no braces down to it nor ceiling joists are spliced over it?

What are the exact exterior dimensions of the 8'x6' shed? I'm seeing a lot of conflicting information, and need exact for a deck

Would there ever be (ceiling) drywall between a top plate and a ceiling joist? I have a truss roof. Wall is running perpendicular to the ceiling joist (middle of house). Seems like it is non load bearing?

Here's my problem, the space above has a half the span size set of stairs from side to side upstairs and it's open. It's just sheeted in, I have the chimney tore down to the floor level. I want to open it up to the ceiling on the second floor or top of the stairs. How do I determine if I can do this or not?!?!

Can you remove 2 of the 2 x 4 and use a header to support the weight

I have a wall running along a joist and in attic there are 2x4s running from the roof rafters to this same floor joist where roof has different lines - like side of house put up against the rest with same pitch but at a different level. load bearing? Would bracing against other joist take load if so?

how do you break and open the walls and support the load bearing walls?

Very informative,.....you made the Tutorial very simple and easy to follow. In fact it was much simpler than what this carpenter told me, he went into a long drawn detailed explanation where I was totally confused.

what if i dont have a attic lol? i have a single wide. trying ti figure out if my wall can be knocked down but dont much about the bearing stufd

What about if there were no braces and if those joists weren’t married? Would it still be load bearing or no?

What are the best and worst options?

Does anyone know what that truss design is called? I have a 1946 house that has a similar design but it also has some little 1x4s coming off the braces about 1/2 way down and going back (the opposite direction the brace is going, but also at an angle) and also ties in somewhere. I have not been motivated enough to dig through the blown in cellulose to see where it ties in. Just curious what my truss design is called.

Would you please give me a bit of advice on my 1950s house? The west side of my Hip roof is sagging, like those old rafters are warped. Can i go in the attic and simply erect support beams between the rafters and the ceiling joists, in a inexpensive attempt to just prevent it from sagging any further? thank you

how can you tell if it is Bearing or non-Bearing if you have a 2nd floor above the rooms you want to open up

Thanks. That’s a load off my mind.

Great Video. And examples.

wish you could say the sizes of the beams at the end if for exemple 3 meter opening. is it about 2" x 8"

Great explanation, well done!

Do you have any videos about putting in a flush/hidden beam in a ceiling space to replace a load bearing wall?

My condo doesn’t have an attic. How to find out in my case?

About how much does it cost to have one of these guys come out to take a look, in general?

i'm no expert but this is the way i would describe it! and ya made it easy to understand! thanks!

Great video - this will definitely help me figure out whether some of my reno plans are as feasible as i think they are

I'm interested in what the negative replies would be, something like: you cheated-you went in to the attic... or: it doesn't matter if you remove one wall because the other will do the work of both. Good Video!

Thanks for the tip, I am trying to install an in wall speaker, The problem i ran into was exactly where the cut out is going to be is a pipe to the left "steam heating pipe. Then a beam to right of it, So the only direction i can go is to cute the beam side. I need to cut about 1 1/2 inches into the beam which is basically the beam side. it's only one beam, I am pretty sure its a load bearing wall. Will cutting that beam by 2 inches be a bad idea? I am not looking to take down a whole wall, just one beam. Another route i can go is to move the speaker over another 20 inches "Kinda Far off" but again i am running into tow beams and at the 20 inch mark, I would have to cute about 3/4 into the beam and 17 inches long way "Top to Bottom. Would cutting 3/4 of an inch off the beam be a bad idea or would i have to support it before i make the 3/4 inch cut, then support it afterwards with two 2x4 's Horizontally then a king stud and a stud?

Here's another subscriber for you. You are so close to the 1000 mark. I am sub number 978. I hope to make it to 1000 some day too. CHEERS!!!

Why did they add blocking in the framing like that?

Great video with a lots of information. Thank you

I need to just cut one 2 x 4 so I can make an opening for a door. Would that be a problem if it was in fact, load bearing?

Where's the next video showing you install the beam? The home I just bought is identical to that layout.....but it's 20', not 18. Wanted to know what size beam you ended up installing? I wanna use LVL.

Excellent video!!

Awesome video man!!

Thanks so much, very informative!!

thanks for sharing, this is great

My house was built in the '80's. I have trusses in the attic spaced 24" apart. The span of the trusses is about 26'. I have an attached garage. In the attached garage there are no interior walls. In the attic the bottom chord is one piece of lumber. Also between the living room and kitchen there is a span of 8' without a header. The exterior walls are 2 x 4's . The house is a ranch. Due to the the fact that the garage and interior opening are not supported, do you think it is possible that the trusses are supported by the exterior walls

Very good videos, my husband and me liked! Thanks!

Excellent video. But this video does prove that I need to bring in an expert.

Great information 👍

Good speaker, clear and concise content. TY!

There is an easier way to find out. Remove the wall. If your house falls down, it was load bearing.

Great rundown.

Great video and thanks.

Very helpful thanks

I was able to remodel my master bedroom from 12'10" x 12'0" to 20'2" x 12'10" in part that the roof was constructed using free span trusses. This means the front and rear walls of the house (block) supports the trusses without need of any load bearing walls. In theory this means all interior walls could be removed without the roof failing. I took out two 5' x 3' walk-in closets and a linen closet to expand the bedroom's length. I built a 4' x 12'10" walk-in closet to replace the two removed. The new walk-in closet has close to 23 feet of rod space because I put in an adjustable rod system allowing two rods the length of the 12'10" wall. I also built two additional closets to replace a coat closet and the linen that were removed. While the total square feet was not increased I made the Master Bedroom almost twice it's original size. I also gutted the storage/laundry room connecting it to the house. I had concrete poured to level the old breezeway slab to the finished floor for both the kitchen and laundry rooms. The back door was there, so I removed it once the new room was completed. The space now measures 18'10" x 9'7". It now serves as a laundry, small storage and workshop. I also kept this room in mind when I had the Heater and Air Conditioner replaced. The AC man recommended I go from a three ton unit to a three and one half ton to accommodate the extra square footage being added. In all the remodel went without any problems and no plumbing had to be changed. Electrical was easy to move and did not create any additional loads on the service panel. I constructed both new walls of the laundry room to be load bearing as the trusses cross them or stop on one section. This meant the use of 2 x 8 lumber with a double header of 2 x 8 to support the trusses over them. I also used this opportunity to build new door frames for the 3 exterior doors to solid wood, make the 3 steel doors stronger and put on 3 high quality security doors. My windows had already been secured with the roll down shutters typical in the hurricane areas. This makes my home completely secure from unwanted entry.

Do you offer repair service?

very helpful thank you.

Awesome video.

4:36 I'm assuming that in the case of a two story building, there would be no load bearing on the first floor whatsoever, since there is no roof above it being supported.

This helped me a lot! cheers guys 👍

Awesome, thanks. Now I can at least be armed with knowledge when hiring contractors to take a wall out for me.

Thanks for sharing.

If you lose 7 to 8 inches and instal another wall intal long beams 2x4 with iron lintel for support lose ceiling height used reset light lights ,just bring in the furniture

Great info just subscribed

The roof of the home in this video uses rafters and joists and doesn't mention that more modern homes generally use roof trusses.

So is there a solution for someone that wants to remove those walls even tho they are load bearing?

This was very helpful! Thank you!

Excellent video, well explained and illustrated, helped me a lot ... thanks

well explained

Wow! Just what I was looking for and you answered my questions so well! Other videos are not as easy and well demonstrated as yours, I truly appreciate your work. It's been a while since you posted this video but I can honestly say yours is one of the best! Thanks Again! 👍👏👏🤗

Awsome video if you keep it up I think your channel will grow quickly and i watch alot of youtube

Thank you Sr !!!!

Su.rprised its load bearing, as thought it would be brick in order to be supporting, not wood plasterboard wall

You are an engineer, correct? If so...then that's all I need. "Honey, get the sawzall..."

good job--thanks

thank you. very helpful

Usually walls that run down the center of your house like that are load bearing

Great helpful video 👍🏽

Great video! Thank you. After viewing over 20 I came across this video and it explained it all in terms I could understand. Thank you!

He's the structural engineer Gotham deserves!

Ohoh, baby bear videos brought me here to this bearing or non-bearing videos Great recommendation by YT Bear or not to bear?

Sweet thanks

Great video

Very helpful video. Best on the subject that I've seen so far.

Thank you for this video!

Thank you

I don’t see nothing that holds down roof in the attic but I am still scared to tear down my wall

Kickass!

Yes, you can remove both walls, and even better create a more appealing space by vaulting the ceiling. Just convert all the rafters into a scissor truss, adding web as needed to create triangular cells. You also can create a parallel bottom chord to the rafter and then adding web to create triangular cells. Both solutions need structural calculations, both case you can improve by far the insulation of the roof. Beams are not the only solutions.