Come on guys factory steering columns comes with 3/8 hole right on the middle. have you ever seen one broken? 😂

The safest and most reliably secure way to couple shafts that undergo torque is with a cross bolt - you say don’t do it then turn right around show your additional component using the exact same procedure (sliding bolt through hollow shaft hole). Sliding the double DD shaft at least six inches up the steering column tube/shaft and then cross drilling with a 1/4” clevis pin or bolt (a seasoned mechanic would never use a 3/8” bolt like you proclaim) is far superior than your additional add on component/coupling because your component only provides about 1/2” of axial movement. Sliding the double DD shaft six inches up the steering column tube/shaft provides 12 times more contact/engagement length than your coupling. All vehicles flex and move and this added extra length is far safer than the 1/2” engagement your coupling provides. Furthermore, your coupling has three to four bolts vs. one in the old procedure. There is a very well known simple irrefutable fact about engineering - more parts means more failures. I find it insulting you would try to pass this new procedure/component along to your consumers without any case studies to support your argument for this additional component. Everyone with half a brain sees this as nothing more than a money grab. Any seasoned 4x4 junkie would never rely on a 1/2” of steering axle engagement (a street-rodder might though but I’d never recommend it). PLEASE SHOW US THE PROOF OR THE EXTENSIVE INDEPENDENT STUDY THAT YOUR NEW COMPONENT/PROCEDURE IS SUPERIOR TO THE OLD TRIED AND TRUE WAY!!!

they are just trying to sell you something you don't need.

So years of steering can open up the hollow tube. What's stopping the hollow tube from collapsing with the other method???? And you're telling me those tiny set screws are better than a 3/8" grade 8 bolt??? Also, I just tore down a 1998 Ford Explorer with over 200,000 miles. It had the steering shaft inside the hollow tube and was just fine.

Considering gm did it this way in there older trucks I'd have to disagree with ur concern

Where the bolts scar the shaft i would knotch them for bolt relief. That would help keep them in the same place like a factory one.

As a retired ASE Master Tech, installing aftermarket parts is different from the entire steering column with tilt. My experience is that everything over time requires repair. Many repairs may require parts, this the un-known for me going forward into my 1967 C10 with floor shift auto in console. I don’t know anyone who has one, much less anyone who has had to fix one. An installer guide is great for anyone including the DIYer crowd. But as a tech working on a repair to fix the root cause, finding an exploded view with parts list would be great. I’ve son who would loose this 10 minute after the box is open as I would be the “Dad” with job of making the install correct. You guys know as things like “Park-Neutral” safety, reverse lights, etc. Ok fine, but if some or many internals are “Unique” to the brand, no parts list, lost model # as if registered to the companies data base, but dumped after 5 years. Then you play with factory OEM type parts to find they don’t fit, well this bothers me bad. GM engineers spec components for 5,000 hours that equate to 150,000 miles, but everything has a possible failure point. Being retired make the idea of complete replacement, say 7 years and told purchase new one at inflation-corrected price in the future, or to send it in for repair, keeps me from pulling the trigger. Maybe someone knows that answers I can’t find. At 6’3” w/power buckets, still need a tilt for my 67 C10 as I want my 5’7” wife to drive or 6’5” son. Any answers that would make this 1978 ASE Master sleep better? Thanks to anyone. Omaha, NE.

i need to know how to get the coloum apart any videos on stripping an auto coloum

Why make it hollow in the first place? Seems a solid shaft would be stronger and it sure wouldn't have anything to do with weight.

What? The mechanical purchase of that coupler over a hollow tube is nothing to bragg about either.

What if the shaft comes with holes pre drilled?

What steering column is this particular one

Any special service parts required 7 years from now, so the ASE Master Tech since 1978 need to know about before I purchase one for MY 67 C10? Anyone?

I can see why guys cut corners when the install kit is 350 on top of the g note for the column

There's not enough room to put that coupler and a rag join on a56 belair

Hey; Marty, where do you buy the B. Coupler? thanks

Do these have a locking feature? I’m looking for a steering column that doesn’t not lock the wheel or shifter, like doesn’t need a key. So I can run the starter wiring over for a switch panel

I’ll never buy another ididit column again. I was told mine would be a direct bolt in but it’s definitely not When my intermediate shaft wouldn’t go on I called ididit support and the kid said just hammer it on What a joke

Extremely stupid idea ... ! . Instead of reinforcing those holes and provide a special pin you came up with this couplers which can worn out easily . A total joke.. .

No thanks.I will take the old way over the that ugly adapter anytime.What he neglects to mention In the video is that to use the Borgeson adapter the instructions state you still have to drill a 3/8" hole in one side of the column shaft reciever.And I would trust a bolt with loctite on the nut to be safer and a far cleaner install than that ugly eysore.And if you have a show car keep in mind that no company offers aeyesore. Or even a polished stainless adapter,they are all made of that ugly Grey steel.So be prepared to pay to have the adapter chromed.