Forse perchè sono italiano anche io!

@@anadialog a be se è vero è una cosa che non avevo considerato credimi, non ho per niente percepito un accento italiano nel tuo modo di esprimerti però capivo quasi tutto e mi sono detto che non è mai troppo tardi per imparare una nuova lingua, invece è tutto merito tuo, pazienza, dovrò continuare a studiare l'inglese.... però è una storia divertente e simpatica !! , complimenti, sei un gran bravo divulgatore anche in lingua inglese......con una mimica e gestualità da italiano vero, come cantava toto Cutugno...

Grazie! Sono in realtà 50% USA ma nato e cresciuto in Italia.

I read about that too, somewhere. Thankfully I have two.

Thank you Hi-Fi haven!

Thanks!!

True!

Nice!!! Thanks for sharing that

Well done!!

I just bought a bd1 with audio technica AT1005 tonearm. Trying work this out myself. I have ortofon Om10, Shure m44 and At95ex cartridges. What tonearm do you have?

Dear Daniel, Thank you for your nice comment, which actually struck me quite a lot. I get a lot of comments of hate, which just say that this is all snakeoil. Instead, your message has some disappointment but it is truly trying to understand what is going on. So I feel I want to answer you more in detail. Actually, most of the suggestions that I propose in my videos should introduce substantial difference not subtle. Although, there are problems in defining what is substantial and subtle for me and for others. I can say that turntable mats fall under the subtle, but cables SURELY may introduce a substantial difference. This may not be evident, if you are listening to a bad recording, on a cheap audio set. When I say cheap, that ABSOLUTELY does not mean you need a high-end system. Please do not get me wrong. But some quality is needed to have good results because otherwise, you're just going to enhance the noise, the mistakes, the bad part of that cheap stereo. I used to have a very humble all-in-one Sony system when I was a kid. That was true garbage. As soon as I started to pass to a higher quality things started to change and got me hungry for improvements. Now, If I had changed cables on that Sony with a good pair of Nordost Odin, almost nothing would have changed because of the terrible initial part of the chain. Another issue, is trying to introduce higher quality cables which in the end are not so high quality. As you know, I quality does not necessarily mean expensive. If you feel like it, try to tell me more about your system and what changes you tried to introduce with all the necessary details. Apart from all of this, a lot of you are asking some evident A/B comparisons and I have been trying to do that but there is a big problem: in most cases, you cannot pick up the signal of test A and then of test B directly from a component (meaning a analog to digital conversion) since a lot of that good sounds undergoes modifications during conversion. Moreover, a lot of improvements I suggest regards the overall effect on the sound, not the signal from a specific component, hence you need to hear the results from the speakers, in the ambience, and that is VERY hard to record, hence hear differences. In other words, the most evident changes are those witnessed in person in my listening room. Nevertheless, I will try to deliver some tests in the future but trust me, the conversion and recording processes kills most of the positive effects.

ana[dia]log thank you so much for you reply. Yeah, a bad system will be a bad system nevertheless. I have a LP120 turntable (with no mods for now and stock headshell) a Nagaoka MP110 and I love the clarity of the sound coming through the JBL LSR305 or Sennheiser HD598. It is kind of a budget setup but it really shines for me. I tried to set the VTA and listening to the chances in the sound, but nothing came to me... Even though I can hear up to 18khz and was using my favourite record in a studio monitors. I won't say everything is snake oil because I'm not trained for that, same goes with a acoustic guitar: did you know how the vibratto should sound, you won't see ant difference. Therefore, I've seen some tests using a microfone setup in the sweet spot of the room and the tester uploading the raw file to some website. The file has to have the same dB in order to be fair and that's the best possible way of transmitting room acoustic and components. As for the hate... Well, don't mind them. Keep doing what you love and with care that it won't matter.

Seems like a nice setup! Good, I am glad that you are evaluating item by item. Be sure to check this on the 18khz topic: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oq2Vm5CBsd-3d3k.html

Have you tried a heavy rubber matt? They isolate very nicely

Indeed!

Yes!

The one showed at the end!

Hi Tom, I am not sure this is a question of an affirmation. Taken that is the former case, I think you need to establish if that shell is good for your arm. If you haven't already check out this video which will help you in choosing the correct headshell (and other stuff, but this is your primary interest now): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ippia9B62t2deYU.html

Thank you again for your positive words! Another bad experience with good-looking wood headshells. You've indicated a TT model (Denon DP-60L). You should indicate, if known, the headshell model. You are probably talking about the standard headshell that came with it in the 1980's. In any case, I am not familiar with those models but I can tell you that a lot of people, as mentioned in the video, are going vintage. The headshells were better engineered and the materials were very high quality in most cases...not always though! So I am pretty sure that the Denon models were very good.

Thanks ana[dia]log! Yeah, the mentioned headshell for DP-60L is the standard Denon ships with TT. :-) Thanks again!

might should get someone who can make you a pretty cherry wood headshell with stabilized cherry wood. Stabilized wood is soaked in a stabilizing resin in a vacuum chamber to get the liquid down into the wood, to empregnate it as thoroughly as possible, with vacuum pump cycles to really get it in there. This stops the wood from absorbing moisture and expanding/shrinking like it does. Just wanted to give you some advice, if you like the look of a wood headshell but want it to be more stable.

In order to find the correct allignment of the cartrdige you need an allignment protractor and, more specifically for the Technics, the Baerwald. Check my dedicated video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fdeHm5dis7qVc5c.html

Very True!

Sculpt lightness in it with a grinder. :^)

@@forwardsdrawkcab if your sculpting can remove mass and retain rigidity then you are onto a winner. I don’t think I could manage that.

I haven't tested it but everytime I try something similarly that changes the basic principles on how a cartridge and a tonearm are designed...it never turns out well! But I am willing to try...

@@anadialog I have my doubts too, that's why I asked. If you think it's a good idea for a video..... :)

What is amazing is that Technics created a tonearm of an ideal weight. It’s effective mass is perfectly in a middle of a proper compliance chart. Without extreme values like 25 or 8, any of currently manufactured cartridges will fit. In a worse case you could try a different headshell +-3..5 grams. Afair AT has 6g and a dynamic compliance of 12. A stock headshell is 7g, an effective mass of the tonearm is 12g. 25g crosses 12u compliance near a top margin but with a good reserve as of +5g

Darn it! :-(

AT311EP AudioTechnica is responsible for sending me down the vinyl rabbit hole. Instantly could tell a huge difference in sound quality on my old Technics sl B250 turntable that was part of a rack system. Then I purchased Technics sl 1200 MK5, sumiko headshell, ortofon 2m black cartridge, project tube box s phono preamp, cartridge alignment tool, digital scale for setting tracking, audioquest interconnects, milty zerostat anti static gun, carbon fiber anti static brush, cans of compressed air, record cleaning vacuum machine, record cleaning fluids, mobile Fidelity anti-static inner sleeves, album sleeves for protecting the album cover, onzow zerodust for keeping me stylus clean, bright LED light for vinyl inspection. And then I started learning about vinyl album quality. Became familiar with names such as Bernie grundman, Chris Bellman, Kevin gray, Steve Hoffman and album labels such as mobile Fidelity, acoustic sounds, ojc, Speakers Corner, analog production, rhino, Sony Legacy and others. Steve Hoffman is a great place to get information about how good the quality of a particular vinyl album is. Not all vinyl is created equal! Have fun on your vinyl Journey. Be sure that you are purchasing analog Source material that is properly mastered and pressed. A lot of for pressings out there, off center, warped, no f i l l s, and poor quality vinyl that is full of snap crackle and pop even after properly cleaning. Avoid album labels DOL, wax time, Scorpio, not now music, simply vinyl, vinyl lovers, Abraxas , and I'm sure there are many others.

No problem, it's normal (at least in several turntables)! That is why it is paramount to reduce vibrations in turntables. The resonance of the tap follows the tonearm and the cartridge and you hear it through your speakers.

Most headshell have azimuth adjustment. Just unscrew the locking below. Even the original Technics has that...

Hi there, no there is not a universal specification though I believe there is an array of dimensions that cannot be surpassed or reduced. In any case, you must look at the locking part. If it fits your arm. The most common is the SME type.

@@anadialog Thank you. I will keep that in mind. No need to ask you another lengthy question. Just a thank you will do.

Right here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ippia9B62t2deYU.html

It all depends from which cartridge you have and it's compliance

@@anadialog Thank you. I have the Hana ML cartridge. Regards

I can help but you have to do the work. Here you will understand what is your next goal :-): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ippia9B62t2deYU.html

@@anadialog thanks a lot

Yes, but it's a delicate equilibrium set by the cart. Here is a video I made on the topic: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ippia9B62t2deYU.html

@@anadialog Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look.

The AT6108 is OFC. The AT6101 OCC, the best!

@@anadialog What is the difference please, I don't know the meaning either, TY

@@anadialog And by the way, is it still a good mod to remove the preamp in the newer versions of my AT-LP120XUSB, I watched videos of people saying and showing it was best to take them out of the signal path, even when turned of (I use an external Musi Hall preamp) but since mine is 2020 (or 2021 perhaps) and they add that X in the model number, could it mean that mod is not necessary anymore? Thanks again

Oh and it is a Yamamoto!

Thank you for your comment Paul. That is my experience with my TT. Things could easily change in a different setup (TT, cart & tonearm). No I do not have a direct experience with wood but everywhere I check most people are not satisfied with the results complaining issues similar to other damping materials...

What material you think is the best a head shells should be made from? I'm a Machinist Now you got me thinking!!

In the end I think metal headshells are the best...the weight is important for tonearm matching so always calculate that. I made a video on this topic. If you haven't seen it check it out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ippia9B62t2deYU.html. For example I had great results with magnesium!

Cool thank you I will watch it

You mean of the Orsonic?

In most cases, yes!

umm so I just need to use a pair of pliers and pull it out? thank you for replying :) really appreciate it. p.s. all this while I thought the 4 pin connector was super glued onto the headshell body.

It depends. In good quality headshells there is a screw, which allows you not only to remove the connector with the pins for any reason, but also adjust its correct position because several times the connector is NOT parallel to the platter, hence a wrong cartridge allignment...

hi again. thanks so much for yr reply once again. reason is I bought a gold headshell off ebay and it they sell it without the connector and leadwires and was considering to pull out the connector with pins from my other headshell (which looks like the connector is glued to the headsehll or maybe its Loctite) and transplant it onto the gold headshell. hmmmm

Sounds tricky...try to use a headshell with a screw, it is so much better...if you glue it not precesely parallel you will have problems with tracking and wrong stylus wear...

That was a stock picture. It looks like a standard jelco...

I haven't!

Hi Bruce, there is no rule for mm and mc and related tonearm. It all dependa from the TOTAL mass and the cartridge compliance: check this video I made if you haven't already : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ippia9B62t2deYU.html Yes, in general terms the more the weight the more the wear out of the surface...especially after repeated playback if the same tracks.

Seems a great design but I never tried one.

@@anadialog Ι will, and let you know!

I always do that...no idea why!

Hi Charles, yes it is very good. It is based on the Orsonic design as mentioned in the video. It is just insanely expensive and it does not have a fingerlift (absurd). The azimuth is regulated by unscrewing a screw on the top of the body.

I think the tonearm lift is a separate piece which is attached under heads of cartridge mounting screws. One thing for sure, IT'S EXPENSIVE! With the azimuth adjustment you mentioned, seems like this concept would assure a perfect Stevenson solution with no doubts about it.

There are several. Just try to type orsonic and the model I am sure it will pop up.

@@anadialog Thanks , tried but without any success. If you have any luck please let me know thanks again

@@johnsnowlow1883 Here you go! www.ebay.it/itm/Orsonic-AV-101S-Anti-Vibration-Universal-Headshell-Japan/273692408997?hash=item3fb956bca5:g:aQ0AAOSwz2VamIDq

🤣🤣🤣

Thank you! I am Italian after all so sometimes I get thinks wrong...thank you for your suggestions! P.S. where did you get an original Orsonic?

Silver is always better, more conductive, but must be treated for corrosion, hence, I agree, gold is better because it is the best compromise!

I really was mocking him but 6-9 copper could be better than some silver. @@anadialog

Yes, gold is less conductive also than copper. But again, yiu must treat it...

Sorry about that. I've gotten a little better over time 😉

I think you are lacking fundamentals here besides being rude. When playing certain frequencies all carts start to resonate. The ability here is to limit that as much as possible. Now set the phone and go home and study before blathering around.

True, but if your tonearm has one...

Because I am Italian!

Dude, I am Italian. I often mispronounce words. Take it or leave it! ;-)

English is not everyone’s primary language.