*VG SPORTS CORRECTION!!* So massive thank you to Luuk Rutten and others in the comments for pointing this out. For the VG sports cassette I actually needed to use a spacer behind the Cassette to make it function! 🤦‍♂Apologies to VG Sports, I'll quickly throw together a video explaining this later!

Hi luke, just a quick tip from a bike mechanic here ;), when working with hydraulics (especially bleader/removing a hydraulic system) take your wheels out the bike, and take the pads out. Then if some brake fluid spills, you dont ruin your pads/rotors. If you dont plan to reuse those, it does not matter ofcourse ;)

Also forgot to mention, the small issue that I had with the RX road version of this groupset (where the shift lever didn't return fully, sometimes blocking a shift with the thumb trigger), it's not present here at all! The shifting is basically perfect 👌🥖🥖🥖

The cassette issue is simple enough. You are required to use the 10 speed spacer, required for mounting 10speed on 11 speed road bodies. The spacing of this 12sp cassette is based on the 10sp mountainbike body, which basically still is the same as the old 10speed road body. Mountainbike cassettes never required an upgrade of the spacing since the larger cogs can overhang on the spokes ( if the wheels are properly dished ). This means 11 speed mountainbike cassettes fit 10speed bodys ( also road bodys ) and so do the 12 speed cassettes. I am sure you have one of those spacers somewhere.

I've been using the GRT groupset now for about 6 months, mostly pretty happy. I went with the aluminum version. The shifting took some getting used to after years on Shimano style, and after a while I really don't mind the difference. Shifting from the drops is easier with GRT than my R7000 for me at least. The shifting mechanism is not as crisp or refined feeling as Shimano, and the upshift has some phantom half-click feelings that can result in not shifting, or getting a double shift if you are not intentional. Braking has been issue free. The left lever has a void where guts would have been, and I wish they filled that up so your left hand sits on the hood just a little different than the right. The "butter zone" for the rear barrel adjuster just a tiny couple click region, and if I did it again I would add an inline adjusted at the front so I could adjust while riding. Overall it does what I needed with minimal fuss, and made for a nice build I don't mind getting muddy or beat up.

Great stuff Luke. The larger numbers on the adapters are for mtbs as they start with 160's where as road bikes start at 140, hence the 20mm difference.

Was looking forward to the groupset for a potential on a cyclocross bike, after seeing how easily the shifter snapped off I think its a big swerve from me especially for a cross groupset.

Hi Luke, about the caliper adapters, 140/160 means it's for 140 front and/or 160 rear. 160/180 means for 160 front and/or 180 rear, so you can use the same adapter for rear or front depending on the rotor size

Sometimes the disk brake mounting adapters can be flipped the other direction to fit either 140 or 160 (or 160/180). The other orientation might put the caliper closer or further relative to the wheel hub.

I'm really sorry about the crash, but also glad you're okay! Those deep ruts can be nasty. I've found moving my center of gravity a little bit back on the saddle helps me keep the steering steady on rough roads. I'd like to see how you go about getting a new brake lever, because I haven't seen any spare parts from L-twoo. Anyway, those cranks seemed a little bit too hollowed out to me, sadly, they were. In my experience the only way to get super stiff, reliable and light cranks is carbon. Aliexpress has been showing me some lovely looking carbon cranks from Racework, maybe they're worth checking out. Altough I got older Sram Force gxp cranks second hand very cheap, and they're amazing.

Brake caliper spacers are 140/160 for the minimum size rotor the mount is designed for (either 140 or 160mm depending on the frame) and the 160/180 is to go from minimum 140mm to a 160mm, or from minimum 160mm to a 180mm rotor.

I basically stopped riding with heavily flared bars because of what happens whenever you crash like you did... After snapping two levers I went back to regular(ish) bars and never looked back. Glad you're OK though

Great episode Luke, good to see they stepped up the game with solid disc brakes and improved derailleur set up over the GR9. The thumb lever is in a better location over the GR9 and drops multiple gears at a time. 🥖🥖🥖

Be nice to see you review the aluminum version of these shifters, see if they are any more durable.

Yo luke, if you reverse the mounting plates for the calipers, the size will differ. Use the 160 side & you move the rotor placement to accept the 180 disc. Switcheroo does it bro. Hope it makes sense

I think the 160/180 markings depend on what was the baseline setup. If the bike was designed for 140 originally it would (and did) support the 20mm larger 160. Had your bike come with 160s, the 20mm would have supported 180mm rotors

I LOVE the ZTTO 10-52 12speed cassette! I bought it for my winter alu wheelset for my XC MTB. I have the SRAM XX1 oilslick one on my summer carbon wheelset, but they look and work the same. The weight difference is minimal too!

loving the work and damn, you would think that the redemption cassette would be checked before shipping! always fair to give a chance and the real time footage guides are so helpful. youve mentioned that the groupset shifts smoothly and quietly, would you praise the cassette and/or chain? im so sorry to see the crash!! so glad to see you didnt get hurt, unlike my face...thank you for the shout out!! got another week to recover but nearly there! really helps with confidence so thank you!

The crap getting in and not getting out is an issue also with original SRAM bottom bracket. I have also the same issue with wheels and so. Solution (or kind of) ... drilling holes for things to breath and dry. Otherwise the water ends up destroying steel/aluminum axles, bearings, everything.

Howdy, thanks for the great content. I just installed a 2x11 sensah group set for my old bike. Works like a charm!!

Now that you've gone full time pro, I'd love to know more about your workspace. I like the sound deadening foam, the lobster pic, how you've arranged your tools, the green lighting. So what's next?

True to your word Luke, thanks for including the shimano / sram equivalent pads that fit!!

Baguette nation X Siroko when?

And another amazing video from Luke. I got to say man you have become my favorite bike KZfaqr. By far the most entertaining one and just spitting amazing review videos.

I had the same issue with a sunshine 11s 11-42 cassette. I ended up using the 10s spacer at the back of the cassette. Enough space left for the lock ring to go in. All working fine now

Great news, Luke! I was waiting this video to crack on and to replace my 105 hydrolic groupset. Thanks, mate! I hope China cycling is watching this video, because he wasn't fully satisfied with this groupset. 😉

Sorry you fell and glad you didn't get hurt. I fell on my gravel bike once and smashed my knee cap. Couldn't ride for a few months. I love your pet duck you brought along for the ride!

My eyes light up when i see you have posted another video Luke. Love your videos, and you are a very talented lad.

Really appreciate all your effort on making videos through the years on products that are easily dismissed by most youtubers. Bless you sir!!

Peter, if you read this, I hope you're recovering well 👍 As always, much love for the video Luke, thank you. Interesting to see some crash testing, I wonder how one of the big three would have survived that.

one of the best tools for cleaning dirt and old grease out of small components like bearings, chains, and cassettes is an ultrasonic cleaner you can get them on amazon and you can just set your stuff in it, turn it on and forget out it!

I just order the same group set,really exciting to install them on my bike! and a reminder: ltwoo grt 1x12 group set of alloy version is 500rmb lower than the carbon version in the video.

Unlucky with the crash and glad you're okay. My impression of that was lack of grip at the side of the tyre. You hit an off-camber rut and it sent the tyre sideways. I have done the same in the wet. It is most likely the result of over-inflated tyres, which can bounce off and be deflected by off-camber edges. You need less air in your tyres to allow the tread to distort and grip the side of the rut rather than ping off them. 25-30 psi is the best pressure for gravel I reckon plus get tyres with reasonable grip at the side.

What happens to the "welcome to another -insert random sound gif/phrase- trace velo production". I loved those intros

Gravel bike is looking tasty, so is the quality of the content Luke puts out 🥵 Baguettes on deck for this video 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

WOW, the colour saturation & lighting was amazing when you got onto the ride revue. The gear looks pretty good too 😁

Nice video ! To adjust the stroke of the brakes, you can push out the pistons a little bit and decrease the distance between the disc and the pads. you remove the wheel and you activate the brakes, you have to be careful not to press too much to be able to put the wheel back on

I guess the brake adapter numbering is because some forks are designed for 140/160 rotors while others are designed for 160/180 rotors. Same for the rear brake, some frames are designed for 140 while others are designed for 160. Depending on your fork/frame you´ll need different adapters in different orientations (or even no adapter at all) to use 140/160/180 rotors. Anyway, yes, the way they printed the numbers doesn´t help a lot.

The video that I was waiting for 👌

Love the video, love Trace. Best production quality this side of Rides of Japan. One note on the snapped lever... I noticed when you initially set up the levers, they were sitting a good bit outside the curve of the drops... Do you think that could have contributed to the lever not being protected by the bars and snapping off?

Great content! Just curious how the groupset is working after a few months of use?

I still use the hard rock CVR crankset with the aluminium spindle 2-3 years later still going strong!!

Test pilot that we admire

Many thank Luke, very entertaining!!! Good you’re fine after getting off your bike. 👍🏻

I don't think anyone is a cyclist unless they have stacked! Glad to see you didn't hurt yourself physically!

The crash didn't seem that bad, to have resulted in a snapped off lever is a bit concerning to me. I've bailed onto my 11sp di2 Ultegra levers a number of times on dirt, gravel and pavement and they're still going strong despite some battle scars. That durability is probably worth it to me in terms of a small crash not being a ride ending event, as I need them to survive week long bikepacking trips in remote places without leaving me stranded.

The 160/180 front adapter doubles as a 180 rear adapter. So it’s used for 160 front and a 180 rear

Another OUTSTANDING video, from Trace Velo!!

Greetings from the Philippines! Glad you're OK! Nice work! Always enjoy your videos.

That crash test seems to explain part of the low price, I've crashed more times than I care to think about and my GRX600 is blemished but works as good as day 1. Hopefully they will fix that in future iterations, having a good cheap groupset is a win win for everyone.

You can take apart the BB cups sing a gas torch and replace the bearings (if thy come in a standard size). Nice videos!

Top vid , appreciate your honesty

That chainstay design on the blue bike looks marvellous.❤

how to pronounce SRAM " SRAM is the conglomeration of our founder's [sic] names, Scott, Ray and sAM. The initials provided a simple way to come up with a corporate name that could be trademarked and directly translated into languages other than English. It is not pronounced S-RAM, SchRAM, or SkRAM. Just SRAM"

Another entertaining and informative video mate. I really enjoy your reviews of alternative equipment.

Thank you for calling out the scammers. I got scammed $500 dollars this first time I received that message.

Hey Luke, speaking about fork adapter - I’ve just installed my GRT and 160 adapter let me use 180 front rotor, and same happened with my previous TRP Spyre C adapters, so it depends on fork mounting holes position

Another great video! Sucks about the crash. I'm running 10 speed GRX 400 alloy shift levers (converted to 1x). I've crashed on them numerous times and they've held up just fine. They're not the lightest, but the alloy shift levers are built tough. Just a bit of nail polish gel touches up all the scratches nicely! 🥖🥖🥖

Tips for riding farm land roads, Never stay on the middle/elevated part especially standing pedalling, Those roads are typically by a four wheel type of vehicle, And how cars work is that where the car tires are it would be typically flatter there. I might be wrong since I’m not from the UK, But back home, roads that are a car lengths wide are typically like that.

Groupset looks amazing, and I love the detail that you present this. I would love to get one of these, but the price is starting to get a bit out of hand. 1 - I really don't like the campy style button. 2 - These appear to me at over 400€ (+23% custom tax), I can get SRAM RIVAL/FORCE AXS at around 750€ that are wireless...

thought about grabbing a set of those cranks. Thanks for the PSA!

their derailleurs are good but didnt previously have a clutch - game changer!!

u can get a water in the bb from your seatpost, the frame should have holes eg at the end of rear triangle to let it go

Thanks for all your efforts with the entertaining and informative content, and good luck with your full-time venture 🤞 Ps, I was hit by a car a week before Christmas which almost amputated my left leg. I’m still not home after 10 weeks but you have kept my sanity for which I’m eternally grateful 👍 Don’t lose the magic Luke! Edit as I wrote this post whilst watching the video : PLEEEEASE don’t glue your lever and use it, you’re worth more than that! 🥖🥖🥖

28:20 - SUPER GLUE 🛢🛠

Cable routing kit. Absolutely essential and pretty cheap. No need for £50 park tool. £15-20 on Amazon. Job done.

Crash survivability is a major issue. I wouldn't want a lever to break on me on a multi-days bike camping trip out in the middle of nowhere with no transport back. I've crashed my Shimano Sora levers multiple times and it has always held up fine - the big lever also being a shift lever helps of course but it does go to show how robust Shimano's engineering is. Glad you're ok and got that on film, and I hope L-TWOO can come up with some kind of a response.

Always entertaining and informative!

as usual awesome content , i'm so confident your content i liked it 1st before watching it .

Thank you very much Luke for this very detailed and interesting video. Once again an amazing job. As mentioned, you are using a BH59 hose, could you please explain why BH59 over a BH90 ? is there any kind of compatibility issue or is it a performance related reason ? Thank you very much for your videos and long live the baguette !!!

Great video! Love the 1x12 group sets. Giving the Ratio update a go for SRAM mullet. I’ve tried fixing carbon/plastic shifter cracks in the past, with no success. The epoxy is strong, it just can’t adhere well enough. Will be interesting to see how you make out!

I think the adapters are numbered both ways as it depends what size rotors your fork/frame is designed to run eg most suspension forks are designed around a 160 rotor, but some are designed for a minimum 180mm so the adapter to take them up to 203 is different to allow for the difference in the frame/fork.

No other reviewer I can think of willingly goes the extra mile to also crash test products. Thanks for the dedication, but can you crash on the drive side next time? For real though - while you CLAIM that you're OK, I (we) surely hope you are!

Thanks Luke! Would love for you to make a foray into hardtails and MTB groupsets...

That crash (btw, hope you're OK) proves that Chinese cheap and cheerful components are still lagging behind what Western companies have been producing for decades in terms of design, materials and general mechanical engineering. No mid-range Shimano, Campagnolo or SRAM lever would have snapped like that after this sort of crash. In most cases, even their curvature and angles are designed in such a way to minimize the risk of failure in case of crashes (besides other considerations, such as ergonomics). I am rooting for them - and for any other manufacturer besides the "Holy Trinity" to come up with groupsets that are as good as the last/current generations of mechanical Ultegra/105 (R8000/R7000) or their counterparts from Campagnolo or SRAM. Good from all points of view: gear shifting precision, ergonomics, weight, robustness, crash resistance, the lot. They aren't there yet - but who knows, maybe in 5 more years they will manage to fill in the gap that Shimano and SRAM have left behind: reliable, precise and lightweight mechanical groupsets (with high quality rim brake options as well) for similar price points to what they used to cost before Shimano and SRAM decided to ditch them (about 500-600€ for a R7000 groupset and about 700-800€ for a R800 groupset). Also, just wondering: are all the real derailleur cable pull ratios among the 12 speed L-TWOO groupsets identical? I would totally try out an 1x12 mechanical for my rim brake road bike using the levers from the 2x12 groupset (with the unnecessary bits removed from the left one for extra weight savings) and the GRT rear derailleur and a wide range cassette (an 11-46 should work at a pinch for the sort of riding I do).

Great show always a good watch 🤘🏼

🥯 🥖Just installed a Twoo 8 speed flat bar shifter on my 1981 Dawes due to your recommendation. It only cost about £8 - which suits me as I’m tight and the bike is a bit shite. It works surprisingly well- why pay £25 for NOS Shimano Alivio. All hail, the baguette.🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

Congrats on surviving the crash! A friend busted a GRX brifter, it was well over 300 US to replace. Talking about breaking cranksets, I was standing climbing and broke the crank where the pedal went thru, and launched my self over the bars, catching and breaking my thumb on the hood, and landing on my feet on the road scuffing my forearm but not falling down. I stop, and wonder why the pedal is still strapped to my foot, but Im not on the bike. From there on out it hurt some. Somebody gave me a ride home, 1st car that came by.

Sorry about that crash. Great video. We need a video on that wheelset pronto! 😜

As mentioned elsewhere it looks like you need a cassette spacer to go on the inside of the cassette. I have not worked out the circumstances for using them. It is generally written it is to put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed body, but I also think whether it is an MTB cassette also has some bearing here as well. I have 10 and 11 speed cassettes, some need a spacer, some don’t

new subscriber here from philippines trace... enjoy watching this episode.

I'm using the JFOYH CNC 11spd 11-36, so far love it. Less weight than GRX at only 239g with lock ring. We will see how long it lasts. 175g savings btw.!

i like those quacks at the end

That crash made me scream out a bit. Glad your ok, sad for the break leaver. 🥖 For future luck, what the heck, have a 🍩 as well.

To be fair I had a Shimano GRX brifter snap off in a slow speed calamity - sometimes the impact angle is always going to ruin your day.

We need to check prices before and after your videos because this word "budget" does change according to aliexpress prices😄

🥖🥖🥖 Here are the bagels you have requested on a previous video for that sick wheelset hahaha Great quality as usual, keep up the good work!

Trace got B-Rolled!!!!

Those adapters where a bit misleading but those numbers are correct. If you're using 180mm rotors use the other side which corresponds to the 180

I just installed my GR9 hydraulic groupset and I am disappointed. The shifting resistance is appauling. I used ltwoo's supplied cable and a jagwire housing. The cable looks good quality. Copper-colored so maybe it's coated with something. It's definitely polished and smooth so maybe it's the cheap housing or the fact that I routed it on the front side of the handlebar where the horizontal bent is bigger forcing the housing to bent more. The levers have another groove to route the housing on the back side of the handle bar for a less bent of the housing so I must give it a try. But the worst thing is that the left lever bleed port screw is tightened so hard that it won't budge. I stripped and rounded its head trying to loosen it and now it's stuck forever. Suprisingly I was able to bleed the system using just one syringe plugged into the caliper so from top to bottom. But anyway I am waiting for the seller's response and his solution becasue this lever qualifies for a replacement. Other drawbacks: 1. Rubber of the hoods is slippery although it has a matte feel to it and has a texture. Shimano's hoods are way more grippy. 2. To save manufacturing costs, for the left lever they use a lever from a 2x groupset (maybe rx) because it has guiding groves for the shifter housing under the hood. They simply just don't put the cable ratchet pulley and shifitng paddle and trigger. That's ok but without this ratchert, there's a gaping hole underneath the lever where all the gunk and dust may build up. Also while on the hoods having your index and middle fingers wrapped around the hood, you can feel that hole and it's edges under the fingers tips which is uncomfortable. Especially when you grasp firmly while pedalling hard out of the saddle uphill. How much would it cost them to desing a simple plate cover with an i.e. elastic latch similar to those of battery compartments in tv remote controllers? 3. Downshift trigger is in awkward position. Its position and overall lever shape is heavily inspired by Campagnolo Ekar levers which apparently have the same problem which Paul from Mapdec Cycles reported in one of his reels. On the hoods to reach it you have to sort of lift your hand and twist it inwards. also when pressing down the trigger, if you have your fingers wrapped underneath the lever, they are right under the trigger and obstruct its downward travel so you also have to move them away. I would expect the trigger to be place more towards the front of the lever just like it is in ltwoo's mechanical road levers like r9, r7, r5... Also, it offers up to 3-4 downshift with single push. I think this is unnecessary, because it causes excessive unwanted downshifts. It could be justified in the road RX groupset in finish line sprint situations, but this is a gravel groupset so I think it's pointless and useless. On the plus side, the trigger is ergonomic and right were you'd look for it while on the drops. 4. Lever instllation is troublesome. The bolt clamp is located in the center of the lever body so the vertical part with the master cylinder obstructs access to it to an extent. Also, the bolt is very hard to reach becuse the rubber of the hood is very tight and does not peel off enough to expose the bolt. You need to have an extended hex wrench with a ball-head end and prefferably with an attachable handle. With a standard-sized wrench it will be very hard to reach the bolt. For comparison, in Shimano levers the bolt is on the outer side of the lever body and it only takes to slide the wrench under the hood to reach it. 5. The rear derailleur isa bit too big. I've installed it on an Accent Furious Pro frame and noticed that if I loosen the b-tention screw too much, the front of the derailleur where the clutch is located touches the chainstay and wedges on it preventing normal operation. Also, the part of the derailleur with this clutch is visibally made out of some kind of composite material, probably based on nylon. It's definitely not metal. The rest of the parts, like the pantograph, pulley cage are indeed metal. Unless you buy a version with a carbon pulley cage of course. Pros: 1. Overall quality is good. The logo imprints are good. They are thick and have a nice sort of brushed aluminum texture. 2. The shape of the hoods and lever blades is ergonomic. They feel good under the fingers both on the hoods and on the drops. A this point I honestly do not recommend GR9. It's not worth the risk. I can recommend R5 because I have had these levers for two years now and they have not failed so far although the shifting resistance is also quite strong but not as strong as with these GR9 eventough I have the shifting cable routes along the front of the handlebar as well . The overall build quality and shifting is comparable to Shimano Sora..

I really like your content! I cant wait to see you reach 100K subs!

These groups you have been showing are really coming along quickly! Hope the keep the prices down

Trace Velo video days always make me happy … 🥖🥖🥖

Another great vid Luke. When you mentioned the brake lever was plastic I felt a shudder only to be proved right after your crash… just seems too flimsy for a life saving part of your bike.. hope you are ok? 🥖

Some forks add 20mm to the clearance, hence the confusing 160/180 sign. I have one like that, so use 160mm adapter for a 180mm rotor.

Excellent video, Luke

My GRT group set arrived yesterday, just a heads up they’ve changed the labelling on the brake adapters now so they only have the right disc size on them. E.G the ones you have fitted here only have “front 160mm” or “rear 160mm” on them.

Great video as usual. I will be considrering this group set on my next build or upgrade. However, im just a wee bit concern how easily the lever snapped when you crashed. That will never happen on a shimano lever. Oh by the way why on earth are you riding in the middle of the track?? thats is the worst part of a track you should be riding.

Love the bonus clip! Thanks Luke! P.S. do you have a Patreon or something of the kind where we can support you directly?

Has there been any updates on this groupset? I'm considering purchasing it for a bike that took a fall at 50mph and it's shifters are now in many pieces.