True. Elegantly simple.....

Titans of CNC is more of a commercial than anything else. They are a commercial for the equipment manufacturers and for the trade itself.

Yeah I tighten the shit out of mine on my 4th axis chuck in my mill lol.

Yes the Haimer could be used to set the C axis. But in this case the key isn't tall enough to get the probes sphere on the sides. What you can do if the Haimer can reach is to just move off center by half the keys width then just jog the C axis into the Haimer until you reach it's zero. That is generally close enough. These jaws were not bored specifically for this part but there were only two parts so I went this way. And yes it would have been better to bore them for both diameters. But I would still check the run out at the parts end. To bore jaws I do use a ring when possible. If that for some reason isn't possible I generally bore a slight taper in the bore getting larger in the back so there is more pressure on the outer ends of the jaws.

Just chuck the indicator directly in the chuck with a straight shank. Maybe you indicator has one of those dovetail straight shanks in it's kit. Then carefully jog the collet chuck up to the indicator and with a mirror rotating the chuck by hand read both sides of the collet chuck to get it centered. The key is to not use a mag base or anything like that. and keep the indicator very short. I have also done this before. Chuck a piece of aluminum in the spindle face the end flat. Then put a short carbide spot drill with its flutes more or less aligned to the X axis. Plunge it into the bars end noting how it cuts on one side or the other. When it cuts on both sides evenly you will be on center. I have done the spot drill thing many times. It is surprisingly accurate. Easily within .001" of center.

This is what I do for tapping cycles. For easier to tap materials I generally use what speed would be for 40 inches per minute. So lets say you have a 3/4-10 tap. So for a feed of 40 inches per minute it would be 400 rpm. Or lets say a 3/8-16 it would be 160 (For 10 inch per min) times 4= 640 rpm. See how that works? So because larger taps generally have steeper pitches this automatically slows the speed for them. For tougher materials like inconel or titanium I cut this in half to 20 inches per minute. The mistake a lot of people make is running the taps to slow. Especially in steels. This can actually be harder on the tap. In materials like titanium or copper and beryllium copper you really need to use the proper tap for the material. These materials close down on the tap and it usually brakes when the spindle reverses. So take the pitch divided into one inch then multiply it by 40 or 20. If you deal in metric you will need to make a conversion of sorts. I'm not sure I am always programming in inches.

Awesome Tip! Thanks for all the good info@@EdgePrecision

@@EdgePrecision awesome appreciate you!

I've been tapping too slow all my life 🥲 by the way we recently bought a bunch of OSG "A" SFT taps (the one with the shiny red letter A) and they really changed our tapping game and tapped thread finish

On my machines I always set it in the last tool pot 80 in this case. But what I think you are referring to is a reference tool (As it is called) in some setups. This is a way to offset tools on a machine. Then all tools fallow the reference tool. Sort of as if it was a fixture offset. On machines that use probing the spindle probe is actually setting these fixture offsets. As you saw me manually set in this video. In this video use the Haimer probe to do this. I have set a tool offset for it (Also tool 80.01 (A on the Mazak) and the Renishaw probe is 80.02 (B on the Mazak)). So when I jog the Haimer up to it's zero in Z then go to the offset page and tell the machine to calculate zero. Its taking that offset I have set on the Haimer and using it to calculate the distance of the spindles face from the machine's zero return position and set it in the offset. The spindle probe does exactly the same thing. Just automatically from a program. I have made some videos in the past explaining tool and fixture offsets. But It may be time to make another to more thoroughly explain this topic. Because it can be done in several different ways and achieve the same result. Hope that wasn't to long!

Have you considered running a warmup program where you rapid the tool around for ~10min

@@tristanmaloney7841 i don't feel like running 100% rapids for 10 minutes when the machine is cold. It's extremely fast and will travel kilometers every morning just to adjust a couple microns. Also, I've run series of parts with a lot of rapid needed (like hundreds of 45 seconds parts), and while the spindles get to working temperature in 15 mins, the screws still take a couple of hours to get warm. So I just accept it. I use the external X offset. I wish this machine could automatically offset the axis depending on the temperature, and I think Okuma's do that

It could if you were interested in ultimate precision. I personally very seldom use such devices. I see people on KZfaq using torque wrenches on vices and fixturing. I think with experience a person learns to feel the proper force to tighten things. There are a lot of variables that come into play with the actual clamping force that is applied and although torque may be a good indicator in some cases, I have personally used many vises in a setup and they all can vary as to the clamping force applied from the tightening torque applied to their handle. Maybe lubrication dirt corrosion comes into play. I don't know.

My miracle clamping devise? If there is a video you are referring to I need more than this to help you find it.

The part in this video didn’t have a ID hole. If you are referring to my next video about milling the helical flutes on the parts OO. No I didn’t have to rebore the ID.

@@EdgePrecision oh ok I didn’t realize that it is a solid part with out a bore yet. Good video.

No I use cam software for this machine. But I have in the past written programs for other machines.