+Matthew Borne The best information available on building F1D is at nffsblog.wordpress.com. Scroll back a few posts to the list of articles and resources. Kang did a complete build manual for F1D's.I would also highly recommend attending a contest. freeflight.org has a list of major contests scheduled throughout the year. Also if you go to Hip Pocket, you can find TTOMA's schedule (if you're willing to come to Atlanta and see Nick Ray, Bill Gowen, Hope, and myself battling it out): www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=18843.0The 2016 nationals will probably be held in Johnson City in late spring, then there's the Kent and West Baden contests in April, the Kibbie Dome Annual in July, and so on.

I forgot about this video...it's been a few years. I've got better footage now; several of my kit instruction videos show much better detail.

tux603 It works well...just takes some practice.

I use Vaseline also. It makes it easy to get all the slack out of the film. The drawback is that it gets all over your fingers. I should use gloves.

For heavier models like Science Olympiad or P-18, veggie bags from the grocery store are a good option. If you want something lighter, I recommend Super Ultrafilm from Indoor Model Specialties (www.indoorspecialties.com/).

Glad you enjoyed learning about this. The thinned adhesive wicks into the slack areas of the film and sticks it tightly closed in a fold, producing a very smooth covering job where the film has been made slack by the dihedral breaks.

Daister, yes, if you're heating it up really hot. I actually used to heat up a piece of steel wire to cut the film, but the danger is that you'll keep cutting as it gets too cool and then the film starts tearing. you're not actually cutting the film, just melting through it.

It is 0.5 micro average thickness and roughly 0.8 g/m^2

What's the weight of your model, size, etc, and what prop/motor did you use? Number of turns, etc? All of these are major factors in getting performance. Where were you flying it? Indoors, outdoors, ceiling height, temperature, etc...

Not sure what you're asking. The film comes from hobbyspecialties.com, the frame is balsa, and the adhesive is 3M-77 spray adhesive.

It's 3M-77 contact cement.

It's called 3M Super 77.

Not at this point I'm afraid. I'm looking into coaching a team later this year, but in the meantime you should visit hippocketaeronautics.com and look at the Wright Stuff discussion threads.

Im in scioly Wright stuff too lol. I never knew u knew about scioly

That's where you have to start. You don't have to build super light to get a model that will fly in your house. I would recommend finding an indoor flying event to attend so you can get the full experience of how these models operate and get some opinions on ways to build inexpensive models that fly well. If you need help finding such an event, let me know your location and maybe I can locate one.

joshuawfinn thank you for the tips. Your interview with flight test is what got me into this stuff. That, and I had some spare balsa from a guillows p40 war hawk. I wanted to see what I could do with it.

+RC Media Network By Captain Thiele that's not altogether different from how I got started, except that it was spare balsa from model rockets in my case.

joshuawfinn lol, whatever you have lying around I guess

I'm slowly putting together a collection of videos on how to do all the various things needed to be successful in indoor.

There is so much More i wish I knew about how to make one of these amazing planes. And as to how to build one of these amazing planes. what does the rubber motor mounts look like. How do you keep the body from clasping under the pressure of the rubber motor. Just building the jig to make the propeller I don’t have a clue 🙀. I built models like these back in the 60’s to 82 period trying to figure out how to get them to fly for 5-6 minutes if I was lucky. I loved building rubber band powered scale planes from 1916-1945. 12”-14” wing span was the best or 16”-27” next pet favorite of mine. I still have the smallest CO-2 motor hand machined out of Titanium. Worked on my 10” wing span plane of mine a P-47D/28 RA I tried to make it a razor back but had problems. Well next time.

Sadly, there isn't.

what isn't available link or alternative of basla wood

Balsa is pretty much the only material for super light indoor models. That being said, here are a few links to build videos:kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q7R6rJZyt53Zqnk.html And kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nNiifJWUsKymc58.html

I sell 1.4 um mylar at jhaerospace.com, and for the really light OS Film (much harder to handle, mind you), go to indoorffsupply.com

Cockatiels. They wanted to be part of the video I guess.

Fish Fan it's all balsa

Thx for the speedy reply. I would also like to know the benefits of using SuperUltrafilm vs cling wrap

Fish Fan let's put it this way, there is a very long list of things better than cling wrap. Cling wrap is heavy, sticky, and stretchy. All of those things are bad. The stuff is actually heavier than gift wrap tissue. Ultrafilm is so much lighter even than tissue that you can't even reasonably compare the two. OS film is even lighter and is the only currently available material suitable for F1D in terms of strength and weight.

what size balsa did you use for a frame ? I need to build one and it hard to tell in the video also in a different video you glued braces on the corners, was that for strenth of to give it more hight ? can you use other wood besides balsa for the frame? thanks in advance for your answer...

Leon Murray, we do the best we can with what we've got. I don't know the first thing about voice overs to be honest. Don't have money for editing programs and Microsoft movie editors have extremely limited functionality.

Are you from uk

Ultrafilm and Super Ultrafilm are available from indoorspecialties.com ; OS film is available from hobbyspecialties.com or you can find all of the above at freeflightsupplies.co.uk

joshuawfinn many thanks!