Your a good man for teaching people how to fix there mowers free and explain very well step by step just like a trade school Thank You’ll

I’m just a woman and you made it look so easy I think I can do this but take alot longer doing it. Thank you for your knowledge! I feel educated on this problem. You’re awesome!

Thanks so much. It's exactly what was wrong with my twin cylinder. I was ready to take it to the shop and then I watch this video Shirin up one of my cylinders isn't firing order the coil and should be back in business in no time. Thanks a million

The first 2 things i check for with most mowers , is spark and compression. If it has those, then its usually fuel. Carburetor, or fuel pump, or other problems. Like clogged fuel tank/lines

Thank you so much for the knowledge! Im just starting to work on one with a carb issue, but I don't think it's the carb. Customer said it's dirty so I pulled it off and nope. So i pulled out a plug and it was wet and I knew thwn. It got dark yesterday and now I feel a lot better knowing what to look for exactly. I had a good feeling it was not firing though... 👍🏻 Thanks again

Great video. was all set to change the carb on our D 140. But I watched this video and found out the left hand coil was bad, no soot on the spark plug. I used a VOM and it confirmed it. Thank You !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the video. This was the exact issue on my mower and using your video, I was able to diagnose it and change the coil. Much appreciated.

I just wanted to say thanks for the video, had a twin that was bogging down in the tall grass and was able to run through this progression to narrow it down to the valves on one side, one of them had come off completely. Got it all put back together and running like a champ, thank!

My John Deere F7 25 start running poorly under load. Watching your video solve my problem I had one arc plug not firing. It was an easy fix though. One of the wires came off my coil. But thank you for alerting me about the power loss due to it running on one cylinder.

Your teachings are amazing; I am not a technician but seeing your videos aspires me and many others to learn from you. Your efforts are greatly appreciated. Thanks and God Bless.

Had the same problem and found that the fuel line from the tank to the carb was plugged. I also found the rubber pulse hose going to the fuel pump was restricted. Runs great now!

Thanks! I’ve been trouble shooting my E150, and I was about to just shoot it. After watching your video, I pulled one spark plug cable off and it’s started right up!

Excellent video! I have a Cub Cadet Z-Force 60 with a Kohler KT740 engine. Starting last fall, I would lose power intermittently. I noticed my gas cap had spun off a couple of times when mowing under evergreen trees. Looked like some debris got into gas tank. This spring I took the tank off and flushed it out completely. Blew out gas lines and replaced the fuel filter. It seemed to run better but then started losing power intermittently again. I also replaced the choke cable as the old one was sticking. I replaced the fuel pump and thought I'd fixed it again. No good. Ran good for a day then acted up again next day. Seems to be ok in idle but when I engage the mower deck engine slows down and won't have enough power to cut grass. Yesterday, I took off the cover over the engine and saw a lot of packed grass and debris over the top of the engine. I used an air compressor and blew out what I could. There was quite a bit of dried oil residue so I sprayed it with engine degreaser and then hosed it off. After that it wouldn't start. Won't crank. Maybe I got something wet I shouldn't have? I used air compressor to dry it off. I'm not an experienced mechanic. Do what I can. The battery hasn't been the strongest so I'm going to replace it today and see if it will start. I suspect I may have a bad coil as well.

Great video, thanks for posting it!

Great vid. I would have taken the time to run a piece of heat shrink over the bad spot on the kill wire and crimp a new terminal on the end. Open insulation will lead to corrosion and future issues.

Super clear for an inexperienced person like me. Thanks!

I hope I can fix my mower with this video. I'm female 60 yrs old and on my own now.

I had tne same problem. It was a clogged jet in the right side of the 2 barrel carburetor (as viewed from the front). I found it by removing the air filter and spraying carb clean into the carburetor, one side then the other.

Thank You for explaining the coils. Great video Just completed foloowing your advice and the John Deers is running much better. Bill Golden

top video, I am in the process of chasing the same issue, paid a ton of money at the Toro dealership and still the same. I have put two new coils and plugs in and no joy, I suppose valves are the next stop. I wish I had seen your video before as I probably would have saved myself quite a bit of time and money.

Thank you, I was ready to throw a match on my d140. Saved my day!!

great video. You really know your stuff. I thought I.knew my mower pretty well. I had know idea where that coil was or how it worked.

You Sir are the Man. Ty

Ha. I only needed to watch about 10 seconds of this video then looked down and noticed one of my plug wires fell out. Thanks!

Great video man, you are a mower wizard!

Thank you Sir, very helpful. One of the best videos I have seen❤😊

Good video, no bla bla bla, or distractions like kids and animals running around. Straight and to the point. However, i think you may have missed putting the 2, 1/4" screws back in the housing by the air filter. Thanks for the video.

Thank you mean I'm very greatful!

wow. I'd ahve guessed differant. Good video.

You are amazing! Love the video.

I had same issues with John deere L120 v-twin briggs and stratton . I changed both coils and spark plugs. It runs like new

I got a 1995 Wizard riding mower that still works like new nothing wrong with it!

Thank you!! This video helped me a lot man! Kudos to you sir!

Sure enough, this was the symptom on my mower! I never would have thought that the mower would run on one cylinder, but sure enough it does (I switched plugs L and R just to confirm it was not the plug). So this was the cause of the low power: my mower really idled down when engaging the blade, and didn't have the power to go through wet grass. Totally different from last year. Without seeing it in this video I may never had even thought that it was possible.

Mowed with tractor then got off went n moved trailer to mow under it got back on engaged blades an tractor stalled wat should I look at? , I had peace of cardboard in the seat sensor bec it shut off before when mowing an did it alot was annoying thk u love ur help

good work chief ....

Love the video! Where did you find the spark checker? I tried auto part store and harbor freight with no luck. Couldn’t even find it on amazon.

Really informative and helpful

Nice work, thanks for sharing!

Thanks a bunch!

I'll have to test the new coils i just put on the old ones are still good so im gonna save those. one was missing half the plug wire is why i replaced mine so i have 2 of the same coils on the engine starts up just fine it did with the old coils to But cylinder 2 was dirtier than cylinder 1 from the looks of my left plug it was greasy dirty but cylinder 1 did have the regular burn on the plug also i seen someone had used vehicle spark plugs in the mower engine instead of regular plugs made for mowers they used high mileage plugs in mine. I need a new rubber tube on the right side ohv cover for now a gas filter is what i have connected to it then from their to the gas pump the gas filters just acting as a connector piece And i patched the air filter tube hose with a smear of rtv and that plastic piece the carburetor is screwed to was warped in the middle on top even with new gaskets on still warped so i put some rtv on its gap on top from the plastic being warped from surrounded by heat i guess the gaps sealed now. I have bought new plugs that were already cracked so for some people it can be a spark plug problem and not a coil on the cracked plug the only way i seen it was because some oil spilled on it and i seen the glass part was cracked

I hope you checked valves on dead cylinder. It sounded pretty rattley. I've had the push rods bent when valves get too loose. I had a push rod dislocate on a very new mower where it apparently had not been installed properly from the factory.

Great video. When did you plug the fuel cut off solenoid back on?

Thanks!

I have the 20hp engine like this one. Mine is giving me problems with not starting after it shut off on me while mowing. When my compression tester comes ill test compression. What psi range is acceptable for an engine like this? I cant seem to find that information anywhere.

Would a faulty plug wire cause it to miss? While the engine is running I can feel the spark while it's still plugged in

I problably have to change the ignition coil !! The problem I have is when I start last week aerator my yard the mower start normal but in some point I can't even pull my aerator and I loss the power at all still turns but I can't move what do you think would be ?

i also have been doing this for a long time some things could have been or figured quicker but good video i have a good amount of spark testers i like the one you have how can i find that one

Good Guy ... Thanks Boss :)

nice . much appreciated.

The rust actually stopped our mower from running, once when cleaned it fired right up.

I have spark on both plugs turns off when i pull the wire on the left spark plug.I have compression and everything in the valve cover looks good.Any help would be appreciated.

I like to use a piece of 400 grit sandpaper folded once to space coils.

I did what you said. It fired up on each side after disconnecting plug. However, when throttling up ( it started but when adding power) on the left side, it stopped. Is this a coil problem??

Great video! However i have an L100 19 horse single cylinder. It runs good until under load. We use it in our field and going through tall grass under load it misses. Any ideas? Thanks

I have a JD X370 that is only firing on one cylinder....took apart and found a mouse house and a badly chewed wire....taped up wire and replaced coil...still no fire on that side....question ....can I pull wire from coil and try to crank...will this verify bad wiring and run??? I will pull plug from carb and put zip ties on spark plug wires before cranking so I can kill it if it does fire....Thanks in advance!!!

You said you needed to replace the PTO seal? Did you mean the main shaft seal in the pan?

was sold a "fully serviced" Toro lx 500. Well it bogs to the point it wont move, has a whining sound & then the gas peddle goes limp with no spring back. . I could smell belt , or something of a similar at one time as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Real quick!

How does grass and dust on what I presume is the protruding edge of the crankcase gasket indicate that it hasn’t been changed? Wouldn’t they test the machine after servicing it? I know my local small engine shop mows their lawn with repaired mowers so they can see if everything is working properly. Doing that would probably add grass and dust to the gasket edge, right? Was there something else that led you to believe that; possibly what appears to be a factory gasket still in place?

Hi, I have a Ariens YT2548 ( 936036 ) ... it loses power after the 1st attempt to start the motor. Will not turn over and dies instantly almost. Bettery still has 12.4 volts. New solenoid, fuel filter, oil changed, spark plugs... oh lastly my fuel filter barely has any fuel in it now. PLEASE HELP

Great video - very informative and interesting. Thank you. Do you have a link for the tester?

If I may, one question? I have spark on both. Remove one plug wire while running and the other plug runs the engine real smooth with no more surging. Replace wire and remove the other, THAT plug runs the engine real smooth with no more surging. Put that second wire back, runs rough and surges. What’s common between the two that is struggling?

Where did you get your lift

Before replacing a coil clean any rust particles off the flywheel magnets

That is a good way to burn out the coil. Ground the spark plug wire that is on hooked.

Have a question for you. Have a la 175 john Deere, it is very badly over fueling. had issues with spark installed new coils, took float apart, everything looks clear, took air filter out makes no difference. Its hard to start, smokes worse then a prostock diesel. If i pinch the fuel line off for 30 seconds it will clean up and run perfectly, until you adjust the throttle at all or put in under any load , then it just coughs and spits and smokes and dies and wont start. Getting frustrated as it what is causing it, it started it all of a sudden. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Good video

Swap the coils side to side and if the dead cylinder comes to life you've verified a bad coil.

❤❤❤❤❤

You didn't install the new spark plug wire down through the slot originally used.

Where did you get that spark checker- thats nice

Off topic but I noticed there is not much fuel in fuel filter is this normal. I have a z335e that doesn't have much fuel in it just wondering if this is normal

My d100 has only one plug,I changed the air filter, but still has a low power problem...don't know what else to do...

Thanks for the information. Great video. My question is, what is the no-load rpm’s for a 22 horsepower engine. I have a D-130 also.

What if your getting spark from both sides?

Just swapped out the coil and spark plug. Still not starting if only that side is connected. Fires right up on other side. Air, fuel and oil filters changed. Oil changed. Carb removed and cleaned. What's next?

I cannot find spark checkr online anywhere. Please provide link to buy it. Thanks.

Why blower above engine swing

Mine had a cracked spark plug

I have a z525, same engine but 24 hp, today I was cutting just out of the blue it's sputtered to a stop and cut off and runs really bad, thinking it was gas I got it all out new fuel, and a tune up, same thing, engine even has a slight pop almost like a back fire, and idea what it could be?

The only time I will clean the rust off is when it interferes with the gap.

ya know someone would say it....a lil liquid elec tape on that open wire.....

👍👍👍👍👍👍

I find it interesting that you would not consider that excessive rust and corrosion affecting coil performance. I have to disagree with this opinion. I think you might want to reconsider this opinion. Think about it this way: a failing spark plug will produce an ever increasing resistance... when a failing spark plug...especially a spark plug that has too wear and corrosion, this creates a situation where the coil must produce more and more energy to fire that plug...and yes, the coil WILL increase more energy proportional to the resistance load of the plug. Thus the LIFE of the coil is reduced from this resistance over time. Likewise, excessive rust AND a bad or poor connections from corrosion and contamination of the mating surface of the iron body to the engine flanges (which provides a ground path) will also produce a decrease in available energy to the coil...the coil will not perform properly.a...and in that situation, the coil can never produce enough energy to fire the plug. So when you think about this from a life cycle perspective...yes, you would want to remove the rust from all magnetic field surfaces and also remove rust from all grounding mating surfaces. This produces the ideal conditions of dependable, consistent long life of a coil. A good rust free magnetic field and a properly gapped spark plug that has no excessive contamination. Cleaning plugs should be a routine maintenance and resetting gap when they wear. Likewise, it is a good practice to clean the rust off the magnet and coil surfaces...and on the ground mating surfaces. If you think about why you would want to clean the air filter and replace the oil is a good analogy for why you want to best possible electrical condition for the ignition system. It's a good maintenance practice. It extends the life of the ignition system. now on the issue of the kill switch wire:: the kill switch wires provides a function that is more involved than just a kill power switch to the coil to stop coil energy. The kill switch circuit is connected to an internal diodes within each of the two coils. technically because of this feature, they are actually called ignition modules. These internal diodes prevents cross fire between the two coils! This black wire circuit is SHARED between the two coils and provides a common ground to this anti cross fire diode protected circuit. If one of the black wires IS FRAYED, and grounds out to the engine or if the wire cannot carry a consistent voltage this defeats the diode from protecting against cross fire. And in this engine, clearly that is the case. The insulation is damaged because it has chaffed against the cylinder cooling fins! And likely grounds out there. I suspect what has happened is that cross fire did happen, and then eventually the coil failed because of it this anti cross fire circuit is grounding out directly to the engine! Again for emphasis, these coils depend on that anti back feed by using that circuit to ONLY be connected to the internal diode! On my machine these kill switch connectors have insulated sleeves to prevent grounding anywhere else! On this engine you are working on, it does not appear there is any insulating connectors for that protection. So that is just another point of failure that can happen from debris and dust and moisture..and yes, rust debris. The point is that if this anti back fire circuit is not electrically correct, then cross talk will happen. It may be imperceptible to the ear as the power can be very subtle as it crosses from one coil to the other through the engine ground ....but it all adds up to poor engine performance and eventually this will lead to premature coil failure. In my opinion that back wire that is frayed and obviously chafing against the cylinder fins is probably the reason for THAT ONE COIL to go bad. Just as a failing plug or damaged plug wire will cause excessive resistance to the coil and cause premature coil failure, the same can occur when the internal diodes to these coils is bypassed through a short to ground from a kill switch wire that is frayed and grounds to the engine...causing cross fire...then failure over time. these coils are only designed to carry voltage and step it up in one direction...and obviously there is timing ....the diode can only prevent that if that kill switch circuit is well insulated and properly connected. my suggestion is to reconsider your opinion....clean the rust and extend the life of the coils, plug wires and plug. Repair the frayed insulation from the kill switch wire to prevent premature internal anti-cross fire diode failure and put a proper insulated connector on it to prevent contamination/resistance/corrosion or possible grounding to engine. just my two pennies. (avionics tech...boeing and airbus...and a few decades modifying poorly designed farm and ag machines) God Bless America

Where can I find a spark tester like that

Can a bad fuel pump contribute to no power on a single piston on a john deer d110

Not sure how putting a new spark plug in will make it have spark

change oil engine

Check your video your coil was never plugged in

I'll bet that's what's wrong with mine

If it was a kawasaki engine wouldn't have that problem

a new crankcase gasket but got grass showing on it ,surely thats not a new gasket rip off ow

Good video. Why though does every small engine repair person tell you to use either "XX"mm or "YY" std? 10mm is NOT 3/8. 3/8 is .375 10mm is .393. Use the correct tool for the job. If you don't have it get it. If you can't don't do the job. If your unwilling then pay somebody who is willing to use the correct tool.

Just spent 10 minutes telling everyone no spark , bad coil, wire rubbed through and you try a new plug! Huh!

Should have been a 5 minute video to long

I had the same problem on mine a couple weeks ago It was a coil issue Ignition coil✈️🛻🚜