If reason for rebuild pump is hard to start. there is the initial pump at the back of the injection pump. behind the cover of the fuel inlet on the pump. It is 2 fins that spin & provide low pressure into the pump to push the 2 little pistons inside out where they then pressure the fuel up to the injectors. All your pump may need is new fins or repair housing on that initial low pressure pump. A good working low pressure pump really help for slow cranking starts.

@@manbuilds1587 Thanks for that. I've seen a video somewhere about the lift pump. I haven't tried to start the tractor yet but I'm getting close. I cleaned out the tank, replaced the fuel filters, changed the engine oil and filter, and flushed and refilled the radiator. I've got to hook up some gauges and battery cables (and a key switch) then I'll try. The fuel in the tank and the primary filter was black and tar-like. I hope it isn't like that inside the injection pump! If it won't start, I'll take it off and see. Thanks for the help!

If the pump is not pushing out diesel, most likely the 2 little pistons are stuck in the pump from sitting, all roosa master pumps seem to do that. Could try a shot of compressed air in the inlet to un stick them. If that doesn't work you will have to dis-assemble the pump. Not much that can go wrong in those, just make sure to note which way the ring for the little pump at the fuel inlet is orientated cc or c & which way the main cam ring is oriented for the injection pump head. It may run if the cam ring is installed backwards but not very well & will most likely shear the pump input shaft. Input shafts are hard to find. If need a part like that there is Roberts Tractor in Ohio. They seem pretty good, have some hard to find parts & ship in the mail.

@@manbuilds1587 Thanks again. Very good information!

Glad it helped

The pump drive shaft can stay with the engine. Can slide the pump off & replace seals on shaft. Just line timing marks up in bell housing window & slide off.

Thanks, I didn't know about that.

Is there supposed to be a pin in the "pinhole"?

@@Drottninggatan2017 no just dot on shaft to dot on the pump rotor granted his was hard to see the dot on the pump rotor up inside the pump

Clean off grease & dirt, align timing marks tdc on engine & pump for easy re-install. disconnect fuel. disconnect injector lines from pump. un-bolt pump. slide pump back off shaft. shaft can stay on machine. Recommend change seals on shaft before re-install pump. Grease new seals for install & pump re-install.

Could be the Return line from pump plugged, had a different tractor with same problem turned out to be plugged return line. Or something with the low oil shut off or a sensor if newer & electric shut off selenoid. Ebay has alot of manuals.

@@manbuilds1587 you're right on the money. I got it running, the return line check valve was clogged with material from the flex disk falling apart. I'm going to rebuild it.

Right on.

You could just lift the loader up & secure in place with a chain to something above or prop. up with a large block under arms. If your going to remove the loader & don't have to move it, leave the 2 big lift cylinders with the machine. makes easier to re-assemble. start machine & move cylinders out until pin holes line up.

Then something may not be lined up. Every injection pump has a way to time it. Unless it's common rail, then you just need to build pressure & timing marks may not mater & may not exist. On these old machines there is surely timing marks. Either pump drive shaft 180° out. Pump drive gear not in correct spot, engine not at TDC, or just need to turn the pump body a little more & line stiffness making it difficult.

yes, but the pump shaft will stay with the machine. Just slide the pump back off the shaft. Suggest have engine tdc mark aligned before remove pump for easy re-install. The seals on the shaft can be changed also, be care full sliding them over shaft. Use some grease to aid getting seals back.on shaft & when installing pump.

gear mark hole? you mean the hole were you can view tdc marks on flywheel at the back of the engine?

There is a large bolt behind the starter on the side of the casing. Its a cap to view the timing marks on the flywheel.

Thanks I will check it out You think that's why the tractor didn't start

That is the only thing I did not set to 8 degree

could be. take time to fill lines with diesel, alot of cranking before will fire. Even if timing is not correct it will smoke once it fills up the injector lines with fuel & injectors start sprayng fuel in the cylinder.

why is it the wrong lube?

@@manbuilds1587 You want to use a gasket silicon lube so your seals last longer. It won't oxidize. Diesel (more like the micro organism that feed of diesel), and any other chemicals you might put through the fuel system for cleaning can't eat through it. Looks like you just threw some GP on it. You should be fine though.

A gasket silicone lube? I am sure there is a specially designed product for assemble. This is not such a precise machine requiring such a fancy product. This tractor is from 1960. Any grease used to lube the shaft will be washed away by diesel pretty quickly. The grease is to help the seals go into the housing. I would much rather use a petroleum based product that I know will disolve & not linger in the pump or the injectors after start up. Silicone does not combust or disolve in fuel like a petroleum based grease. Probable no issue with the silicone grease, almost anything used to lubricate the seals will work fine. Peanut butter would probable work just as well as long as it is not chunky peanut butter. What micro organism feeds off diesel, Are you thinking bio diesel?

@@manbuilds1587 lol! I stopped reading after Peanut butter.

why stop reading after peanut butter?