Pretty sure this is not a JIS, because s-ride is from China. Newer Shimano products don't use JIS screws either. They all use screws which can be fastened with ISO 8764 screwdrivers. If it is a JIS screw, the screw should have a mark (point or a little x, source Wikipedia: List of screw drivers) on its head. However, worn tools on the other site are one of the most common causes of stripped screws.

@@manueldeubler1127 good call, China origin is unlikely to be JIS. My judgement might be clouded by my First Tier Hobby, motorcycles, where JIS tends to rule the waves. Good pick up, my mistake.

@@kymcopyriot9776 Looking at the frame at 6:29 it does indeed look like a JIS-head screw.

Good call

Here's a pro tip, just use a flat head. Simple is as simple does. Cheap Chinese stuff often uses compromised parts and materials so it's not very surprising. We ALWAYS PAY for what we get, one way or another. You could easily get high grade socket head screws for a buck or two and problem solved. Ive never been able to figure out why there's so many different screw heads. Job security for somebody I suppose.

I've seen a few of those, although not in at least a decade. They were all set up on mountain bikes with a singlespeed hub in the back attached to a chain tensioner and then a double ring in the front without a derailleur (the rider would manually move the chain), although I'm sure it would work just as well with a FD.

Look up dingle speed bikes.

@@Alex_564 These things kick ass! More fun than ought to be legal! Ive got two 'cross bikes set up dinglespeed. One fixed/free 4 different ratios and another freewheeling 4 speeds. Super strong and cool set ups. Building a 3rd dropbar hardtail set up too. They never ever break. Perfect for the nastiest conditions. Dinglespeeds are so simple most people don't even comprehend it.

Thats called internal gear 3 speed in different world

That’s the standard set up for bicycles in Africa, although they are used as mobile shops! There not really for leisure riding, they are associated with impoverished people as they are cheap but for cruising they looked ok

is it a trek520?

@@guillemxanxo2683 No, it's a jamis renegade explore, assembled with standard setup 50/34 in front and 11-32 in the back. So i changed crankset, cassette and rear derailleur.

@Patrik Pfeuti this is precisely my kit, built on a Soma Double Cross Disc. 2 x 10, works perfectly.

is it an fsa 46/30 crankset? i read it's only compatible to 10 and 11 speeds. can it be used with 9 speed?

@@rapmeister5242 yes it's a fsa omega crankset, and like i wrote in my previous comment...flawless!

I feel like this is the route I may potentially try to go but with Shimano Di2 eventually, except with a 31-48 crankset, if possible. How are you liking it to this day (a year plus later)?

And better cadence. Remember when they told us we needed more gears and tighter ratios... Now they are like, nah, just kidding, you want simplicity. I kind of agree with both. Triples are a pita, but 1x is to widely spaced. Solution, wide range compact double.

I am running this exact setup on my old Cannondale M400 625% range is wild. Literally cost $60, $40 for the square taper crankset and $20 for the 7 speed cassette every thing else on the bike is original from 1996

@@MountainVisions I comment everywhere telling everyone to get a 42/26t double crankset and a 9 speed cassette: 11-40t. Big ring is 1x for the road. LIttle ring is 1x for off road.

I'm using 11-42 with triple 9 speed. Shimano shifters, Shimano derailleurs, Sun Race cassette. Needed a Wolf Tooth derailleur extender. Works great. This single up front with a dinner plate in the rear is just trendy nonsense. If you can't adjust a front derailleur, maybe you should be in some other sport.... Learn how to use your gears so you don't cross chain, and shifing becomes a joy. Having the ability to shift up front is like quickly shifing up or down 2-3 gears in the cassette. Quick and simple snappy shifts. Hopefully these parts will be available for a long time.....

i know it's pretty randomly asking but does anyone know of a good site to stream newly released tv shows online ?

Same here. I totally get 1x for MTB, not sold on it for gravel, bike packing or road. I was building a mega 2x drive train which I was testing on a project bike before I track down a frame for final build. Unfortunately, I had an issue with the Sunrace M9 derailleur (unrelated to the setup) so didn't get to test the 1x with 2x setup. Currently microshift long cage with moderate 11-28 on a 3x front. Good enough for unloaded class 1/2 gravel and the road stretches. Getting all the gear range out of 2x would be optimal vs 3x But future plan is something like 2x9 with 11-36 or 40 and 50/32 up front.

I'm an old road racer turned trail rider. Cadence is important to me. I can't stand the huge gaps between gears on 1X. I like small gaps between each gear to get my cadence just right for really long rides. If I want to always be in the wrong gear I ride one of my singlespeeds! I ride roads to get to trails and link up more trails with roads in between the trails. I need a big chainring for road riding and fast descents and rolly trails. A middle gear for hammering out steeper climbs and a little gear for the last few steep climbs after 40 miles of tough trails or when hauling my 'household'. Even 2x barely gives enough range to pedal on trails. 1x is ok for really rough trail riding, short rides and gravity runs. It doesn't work for me when endurance riding. Multiple chainrings and front derailleurs are simple to use IF you know how to wrench, know how to shift and know how to choose gears that tension the chain on the rough stuff. It worked fine for decades for me. I'm too old to compromise! I'm moving to Colorado and retiring. 3x will be on my bikes for a long time.

I put on a shimano xt rear derailleur with 11-42 cassette and a 46 36 26 triple up front and it works. You just CANNOT cross chain big ring/big ring or else 😅 but the range is ridiculous but useful !

Gevenalle long pull shifter and older style MTB rear mech. Built specifically for that type of malarkey!

I may be considered somewhat crazy for running a 26/36 w/ 11-46 on my ‘16 trance adv too but it works for my 63yr old legs so...

11-42 is standard for MTB 2x, so why would it not work for road? I was running a 26-36 front with that cassette, so the step is 10 cogs, admittedly smaller than on the presented front double 32-46, was it?

For those that did 2x with 11-42 or 11-46, using GRX long cage derailleur or other?

try it, i went back to a triple so i can run an 11-32 for smaller steps cause sometimes legs get picky but really liked the double as it allows for better chain-line when crossing gears.

🤨

It may make some laugh but a friend just put a triple on his former 1x10 just cause he could. Where he uses it he could run single speed. Just playin....its winter here.

Shimano gear capacities are pretty conservative and the same might be true with the S-Ride derailleur. The only way to really find out is to experiment, which is another reason why Russ's videos are so instructive and entertaining.

47-16=31, 11+31=42, so with a 46/30 on the front you're within their stated capacity with an 11-42 on the rear. (I saw 49 teeth on Soma's site which would allow 11-44 with 46/30)

This sounds pretty close to my dream bike drivetrain for touring/gravel.

Flat bar gravel with triples aren't out until 2022. Unless you buy a time machine and go back and get one from 1992. Problem is, time machines are expensive. Almost as expensive as flat bar gravel with triples in 2022 will be.

@@joelogjam9163 😂 I actually have a 92 Trek 930 ridged Mtn bike with big fat slicks on it I’ve been using as my do everything I won’t take my roadies on for years I always called it my urban all-terrain assault bike but now I guess that’s considered a “gravel grinder” 46/36/24 triple in front and a 7 speed 13-30 in the back Most comfortable enjoyable bike I own

I love my 1998 Rockhopper with flat bars and a triple.

@@joelogjam9163 truth

What derailleur are you using?

@@cccorlew Shimano Deore with a Roadlink

I remember those. I had one that accepted 16 tooth and larger Sun Tour freewheel cogs. I used an 18t with a 32t in back for my 1st loaded tour on steep mtb trails. It was TOO LOW. So low and slow it was difficult to balance a loaded bike on a rough trail. It was much easier just to walk at that point. Faster too! There was also an adapter made by Avid to accept the later 58mm bcd chainrings. 20t was a good low gear with a 32t for loaded bikepacking.

20x32 with 26" wheels was good for loaded and off-road riding, even at high altitude in the Himalayas. 15x34 on the other hand was worthless. ;-)

Yep to A, I put a MB 36/22 with 11-32 (19 inch low) on my gravel bike when I got it last year and found I only went down to the 28 (21 inch) on really step hills. Unless you can spin really fast road speed will be too low. Search for Sheldon Brown for gear info.

Just get Rohloff and Schlumpf :)

By not doing so you will create less wear and tear on your drive-train, end game longer life for these parts also means keeping some of your co$n in your pockets.

Im planning on running 40-24t CS with 11-34t rear cassette. What derailer are you running?