Ha somebody else that also loves the dolmar 120. I've got a 120 super that still runs pretty great but I hardly use it because I don't wanna wear it out much more

I have a 143 that I definitely need to use more, but theres nothing that big needing cut anymore!!! Its too heavy to haul back in where the big wood is...

There's a big vote of confidence right there, if I ever get a saw done I'll have to reach out to hotsaws101!!

In NZ no one runs ported saws really. I port my own and I will never run a stock saw.

John - Thank You for the post.

andrewford hi. With the right amount of massaging the 7900/7910 platform can be turned into a "lil buttkicker". Thanks for watching.

andrewford80 I bought a Dolmar. I had previously used Stihl and I had a Husqvarna that was made in Sweden. The Stihl and Husky were great saws. My Dolmar would scare you. The rpms it’ll turn, more torque for those deep cuts I swear it’s the most amazing chainsaw I’ve ever had. And I’d never heard of em till just a few years ago.

@@BillyBob-ep7em never part with your dolmar they are totally underrated quality German machines

don't waste your money on a stihl or husky,the dolmar's are as good for 1/3 less of the money the other 2 are!

Greg hi. Yes I made the intake. Thanks for watching.

Same platform as the 7900. Except for the fixed high speed jet carb, choked down flow muffler, recast (minor) cylinder exhaust outlet to mate up with the new design "tuned pipe" muffler, redesigned (lighter but less through flow) piston, and new (1000 +/- reduced rpm limited) coil, I have not noticed any outward physical changes. Thanks for watching.

Jeff hi. The K&N filter setup has long been known as a bolt on performance enhancer in motorcycles, cars, etc. This is because of the element media material, design, and shape. If you take a stock saw and compare the difference between how a saw runs with the original oem fitment filter and a K&N, it will be noticeable. To answer the question directly, no I did not. Thanks for watching.

Early model maroon coil 13.5-13.8

crystalgayleaddict hi. I busheled (piece work) for most of my falling career. You look for time & weight saving as a result. The Oregon lightweight bar has much less mass when compared to a stock Dolmar. I run LW bars in the woods. Thanks for watching.

Buy an Oregon... check the chainsaw guys page for his vids on the problems with sugis...

I've seen his vids, run his saws, Hotsaws101 will be doing all my porting now. I own an Oregon, Sugi, and a few others but I'm not a professional cutter like Jack so I'm not putting 100's of hours on each bar yearly like he does. Both of my Sugi bars have been fine so far and made it through a couple pinces without trouble. Wish Cannon would build a light weight offering.

Thanks. No they do not. The pine in this location was worse than the fir and tamarack so I'm happy with the way it performed here (the chain). The Oregon factory made 100 (green paint) liteweight test bars around '99 - '00. I ended up testing two of that lot. The rails were like mush, and to a degree still are. For some applications they are the bomb - super steep/brushy/gnarly ground where you are required to limb. The first Sugi I used was in '87 - a real 3' length (119 driver if you are running 3/8s) heavyweight bar. Bullet proof - 6 months and never touched it. Have not had one since that was that good. ~ '08 - '09 they had issues and the inside of the rails wore to quickly, imho (they did take care of that situation). The Tsuamras have good rails. Are less weight than the Sugi, and just about as stiff/strong. The guys that seem to have the problems experience the tips (both Sugi and Tsue) failing prematurely. I never noticed that issue but never used my bar/tip as a pry bar either. I like the Stihl liteweight bars as well. The rails last longer than the Oregon by far and are not much heavier. Over all, I think the Tsumara bars are the best all ( they did have a short stretch where the inserts were shrinking but fixed the issue) around since the rail are bullet proof and if you finesse them the tips are fine. The down side becomes can you get the length and gauge you want/need. I like ths Stihl liteweight bars in second light, good rails and pretty stiff. If my 2 cents counts for anything.......

Yea I've been wantin to try the stihl...and I've always wondered if the blue logo oregon lightweight is different from the red...I run my old 394 with a 28" cannon at the moment and I'm liking the stoutness of the cannon bars so far...round here stiff n rigid seems to be the ticket...

Interesting the Sugi "problem" should be brought up I noted that the tail of the bar shown by "The chainsaw Guy" had not been cut - I had a Tsu crack and thanks to Jack who pointed out the problem , no cut in the tail,a few moments with dremel and cutting disc no problems ! I have done in a couple of tips but that is down to a lot of the limbing I do is after a harvester has attempted to process the tree and failed, imagine a croc spinning a hippo around ! The limbs have such tension that its tough on the tip no matter what you do ! I can and do wear out an Oregon Power Match in about 6 weeks and after 3/4 weeks notice a fair amount of wear in the rails so m vote is Tsu. I have run the Stihl light as well and not bad.

Hello. Are you asking what the length the bar is? 32" if that is the case. I'm running a Windsor chain here. Thanks for watching.

African Twin hi. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jq-omrKCma3XfoE.html spells it out. Thanks for watching and blessings to you on this day.

They are not as bullet proof as the old ones but don't weight nearly as much either. Thanks for watching.

Karl hi. It came on this version of the saw as an oem fitment part. Stateside, they can be ordered from a dealer or the manufacturer direct. Your name looks decidedly European. Across the pond, I have no idea where a guy would find a set. Thanks for watching.

@@hotsaws101 ok, yeah I'm german. And its like almost impossible to get one of these and are extremely expensive. Thanks for answering

Karl hi. Shipping to Europe is a spendy operation. It requires a special trip to the PO for a paperwork and inquiry session. I have sent handle bars and saws across the pond. If your serious, I guess you could email me and see where the process leads. Thanks for watching.

The 166 Dolmar from the 70's "wood" pull a 42 pretty nicely in stock trim. Not sure if that is the saw you reference. The 133 was a little small for that application, imho anyway. The 7900/10 has both good and bad points - as do all saws currently on the market. The Dolmar/Makita can be made into an animal for sure. It just takes a lot of work to get it there. A 78.5cc saw that weighs in about the same as the non-strato, early 372xp and ~ .5 lbs less than the 460/046. I think they have a little more than the 461/460, which has a little more than the 375 (372xpw) equally "did". Contrasting, They have the weakest spring mounts of the middle weights and you best not be rough on your equipment lest you be replacing motor mounts in a real regular fashion. Internally, they are built more like a thoroughbred than any other saw I have ever seen - for speed. Part of the reason they weigh in at so little. Conversely, they will wear out faster because of the "thoroughbred design". Pistol grip has the best shape of any saw, period. Clutch cover has the worst shape/design of any saw, ever. It's a trade off, as with all things. If you are thinking about building a saw, please shoot me an email. I could blather on and on..... Thanks for watching.

hotsaws101 we'll "I try to finess" anyways so I may have to look into one of these. How much would i be looking at for an overhaul? The 9s?

If you end up getting one and need an assist please shoot me an email. Thanks.

65BAJA hi. You would have top contact the guy that did this one I guess. Thanks for watching.

John hi. Not a standard. I cannot speak for others either. It depends upon the lean factor of the tree. It also depends upon whether or not I want a certain thing happening at the stump. I've cut old growth Live Oak, Black Oak, Chinkapin, White Oak, Madrone, and Tan Oak. Up to 6' in diameter. They sometimes grow like you mentioned. Where the bole can be 20' off the ground when they quit moving. That is why I will assess the crown/lean with a plumb line. In order to get a face cut in the is deep enough to have the tree doing what I need. Also, I have my axe or a wedge in the deck cut watching for movement. Unless there is a massive rift crack that lets the butt split, you can usually get the face handled. Thanks for watching.

Arpad hi. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jq-omrKCma3XfoE.html spells it out. Thanks for watching and blessings on this day.

what do u think about amsoil 100 to 1?.

Outdoor Frenzy hi. Trim. For cuts (kerf loss) that the mill takes sizing log to millable lengths + cuts on end/s of log that are not perfectly square. Sometimes checking too. Thanks for watching.

hotsaws101 thanks for the videos and the explanations.

Stephan hi. If I'm tracking with you, the K&N is the only difference. Thanks for watching.

@@hotsaws101 Where I can get that Filter, did u got a link for it ?

Colton hi. Essentially yes. I gave more detail in the other post. Thanks for watching.

Dun Rite hi. My email address is usually in the description. But just in case, danger_cat@rocketmail.com Thanks for watching.

شكرا لمشاهدتك.

GoPro. Sealed case. So you, the viewer, can enjoy the falling activities even in the rain, sleet, hail, and schnow. Otherwise,,,, it would only be the balmy days.... And, we all know that the good stuff happens in the inclimate weather too. Thanks for watching (only, lol).

So that all the folks know how this started out, and maybe learn from my experience. And buddy, have the kahunas to let your scolding stand.... Air Port 6 days ago how about STOPPING after cutting smiley to CHECK no person or animal has moved into the area where tree will fall you BONEHEAD. 1 REPLY Hide 2 replies hotsaws101 2 days ago Oh here we go... Not sure how things are done over in Whooville. Out on the West Coast it's not up to me to make sure you don't hurt yourself by being an idiot. You don't sneak into a person's strip unannounced. You make yourself known by letting the faller/s know from the landing or another safe spot BEFORE going into the strip. The animals are smarter than that as well. Thanks for watching. Show less REPLY Highlighted reply 1 day ago @hotsaws101 YES IT IS...... person felling tree is RESPONSIBLE for ANY HARM DONE..... not very bright, are you?????? REPLY hotsaws101 1 second ago I'm going to help with a learning moment - Back ~ '06 in early May on Walker Ridge (headland ridge that drops off into the Pacific). I'm inches from the top on the West Southwest side of Lady Bird Johnson Grove. The strip was laden with Huckleberry & Rhododendron. Sawing from tree to tree was a necessity. A pretty severe Sou'wester was blowing. My strip lay (the way the ground was contoured) was such that timber had to be sent to the West Southwest. In other words, straight into the wind. I'm having to set up a ½ dozen or so trees and then get back in behind them and pound them down with, well,,, anything I can find to go into the wind. That part was a waiting game. Every so often the wind would subside enough to wedge the pounder tree into the poundee trees. What this means is that that day, the most dangerous job in America any three out of four years you look at the census bureau just became exponentially more dangerous than a "regular day". I had a 30/32" fir set up. The tree was a three long log & a shorty specimen. As I'm "working" this tree into the wind in between gusts I just happen to notice an orange hardhat with some glasses & silver hardhat poking up just above the brush about 75/80' DIRECTLY OPPOSITE THAT OF THE WIND. In other words, they were standing in head deep brush, with no way to move quickly, in the ABSOULTE WORST place to be on that day. Now, I'm committed with the pounder tree at this point. My pounder tree is, like all the others, working back & forth in the wind gusts. It is borderline too windy to be working, but, we had missed a lot of days during the winter to weather and like most others, kids need food, clothing, and shelter. I had the pounder tree pretty well set up and it didn't take long until the whole mess was on the ground. Low & behold, here comes the cutting boss for Green Diamond. Along with the pole buyer for Sierra Pacific. I proceeded to explain to them, but mostly the cutting boss, at a VERY HIGH “OCTANE” LEVEL WITH ENTHUSIASM, that what they just did was one of the more stupid things that I had ever seen in the woods. I actually yelled in the cutting bosses face - DON’T YOU EVER COME INTO MY STRIP AGAIN UNANOUNCED, EVER!!! I did it twice to drive the point home. I continued along the lines of, had a big gusts come up and pushed the trees over backward they had absolte no way of quick escape. Would it have taken another 5 mph higher, 10 mph higher gust to come up and push those trees over on top of them. Who knows. Would it have been “das-asterous” though. That I can Guaranty. In late March of ‘08, I was standing toe to toe with said cutting boss. I asked point blank “Have you ever felled a tree?” The answer was “NO”. So now the previous “day in the woods” snippet makes more since… As a faller, I am responsible for not hitting what I know is there. By your logic, I’m also responsible for everything else. Even the idiots out there that do, and let’s face it, really stupid maneuvers. West Coast etiquette requires that I absolutely make sure the faller knows I am coming into their strip. If nothing more than to get the best route. Worst case scenario, I get to heads up that there is a tree headed where I stand. I am sorry if you do not understand this part. Unlike what is going on in this world, and it’s rampant, I need to take responsibility for my own actions. Especially “out in the bush”. Summing it up - What I shared here is just one case where a bad choice was made by someone. I had no control over that choice. God was smiling on those two that day and they lived in spite of their VERY POOR reasoning. Would I have felt really bad had it gone the other way, YES. Would it have been my fault? No, not even. Hope this helps you with the delineation of who is responsible, liable, for what.

I really doubt that....