danyk666 Agreed, but how can the snubber circuit actually do its job of voltage transient protection for the relay if it's not placed in parallel with the relay as normal? Just replaced two 90w PAR38 halogen floods on an outdoor PIR motion security light with 90w equiv. 11w LED ones. And both glow at a very low intensity when off. Guess the snubber circuit is definitely in parallel across the relay here and leaking electricity through the flood lamps ...

@@H.T.2forever The spike is generated by the load, so you can damp it either way, the faint led glow is probably the deciding factor. Led's will glow with amazingly small currents, just capacitive coupling in TPS cable is enough.

The cheaper/smaller units that use a rectifier and thyristor should still be able to be bypassed with a switch.

It is a transistor and it drives the relay as stated in the video. The zeners are very cleverly included in the bridge. As Clive says, the normal arrangement is to have a separate zener following a normal bridge circuit.

My 2 new PIR sometimes triggered 3 times after switch on. So bad for AC lights.

​@@pi5955 The flashing at power-on is a sort of test mode and usually not as bad for lamps as you may think (except fluorescent tubes with bimetallic starters). If you want to avoid the test mode, don’t interrupt the sensor’s power.

Hi Barrie, I want to do the same thing as you. Did you get an answer or find out how to do it?

Jahedur Rahman If the relay is rated to switch that power, then yes. If the PIR module was originally designed for a filament lamp, then the relay will have contacts that have a suitable rating as these are often capable of switching 100W or more.

It's improvised out of a short flex and three Wago lever connectors. I'd normally use a device called a quick test block www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171517360266 but don't have one here at the moment.

You could probably change a capacitor to get a completely different timing range. If yours uses a BISS0001 PIR chip then you could find the capacitor location in the datasheet.

It used a capacitor to ration through a small portion of electricity on each half of the sinewave. Very simple, but does not provide isolation from the mains supply.

No need. You can buy 12V versions of the same unit online.

Assuming you mean DC, you would connect directly across the output of the bridge which may be enough to drive the relay, otherwise you would have to change it out. Also the voltage may be too low to provide the current requirements of the 5 Volt supply. In that case the resistor to the 5 Volt Zener would have to be reduced to half its value (or an equal sized resistor could be added in parallel.

What about wiring an outlet instead of the light fixture. then plug a power supply in to run your lights? Just make sure the power supply has proper isolation.

Andyman ummnm...replace the bulb...lol

The current PIR sensor has been working for about 8 years, which is good.

Colin Overton no...the power relay will burn up LED units as the one you have is for use with higher wattage outdoor bulbs

MyBigThing2010 The PIR simply switches the live. Why wouldn't it be possible if it then powers a, let's say, 30w power supply for the LED?

scwfan06 it switches the live and handles the current from the device that's now sucking power through it. ..pir...like all switches or components have ratings on what they are built for and what they are capable of handling. if you put a LED rated pir on an outdoor 2x 500w halogen.. you mine as well call the fire dept yourself ...right after you turn the circuit back on from the breaker box...cuz motion will turn on the light and there's a good possibility of components catching fire...best case is you just blow the PIR n it packs it in, "maybe" trip the breaker...but Murphys law is typically universal....there's always a chance that the unit will survive...but in an overdriven n HOT state...N heat and electricity and building materials don't play nice together...n the pir, in this case, is hanging in the breeze, very close to a wall and not protected in a junction box...so bbq time...just sayin...it's not a good idea to just stick components together if you don't know if the rating or internals will be able to handle the load (volts and/or current) you're putting on them ...safe than sorry ...if you're sure you have a bad ass pir and you're going under its specs then there shouldn't be a problem ....but just be sure what flavor of component you're using before making diy electrical spaghetti

MyBigThing2010 calm down! I think the OP wants to use a PIR that is rated to control 125W lights to control new low power LED lights. Not the other way round.... If the PIR module is like the one Clive took to bits (and all the mains voltage PIRs that I have taken apart so far, have been similar) then the answer may well be that it can be used to control a mains rated LED lamp. But if the PIR relay contact has a snubber network (so do, some don't) the LED lamp may glow slightly.

Colin Overton - and other late readers .. If you are asking about the entire 'gray' unit, with mains in AND mains out, YES - but you may get some 'afterglow' when the light should be off. I suspect the difference between the data sheet and actual implementation in regards to the 'relay' has to do with relay-contact life and LED-afterglow. If you are asking about swapping individual boards INSIDE the 'gray' unit, that's much more complicated.

That could theoretically work.

Hans H I have converted a mains PIR light controller for use on a 24V DC supply before. I removed the mains wiring and replaced it with a low voltage four core cable (sold as alarm cable). I then replaced the 560nF capacitor (or whatever value it was in mine) with a wire link. I connected positive to the "L" connection so that the relay now provides a switched +24V when it operates.

Plenty of schematics on my videos.

The PIR can only really trigger with continuous movement.