well said

thats a good rt, not like lawyers who give advice and send you a bill lol.

Great tip! thank you Shaffer Small Engine Shop

thank you Ken Konter

I would imagine if you use it every time it probably is effective. Once it dries and hardens it would probably not work as well

no problem and thank you Trevor Demerol for your time.

Thank you! Will do!

thank you Gary Allen

interesting, where did you come up with the 1 level higher part?

I have, it's a total mess under there, always nice to see you in the comments!

Thanks for sharing!

you got that right

I do agree with you.

thank you Sam Feldman.

Do you wash it after every mow?

@@xVoidCypher not every mow but I try. It’s way more infrequent as the temperature rises.

Thank you Marlin Runions, thank you for sharing your technique.

the absolute definition , thank you John Mckee.

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE We all Love your videos and your great advice.

thank you Mr G.

thank you Big green machine.

Thanks for sharing

Glad it helped

Thanks 👍

Great tip!

I've got to try it now.

I feel the same way, thank you Ramadin Sookhoo.

You are welcome!

thank you Michael Haigh.

thank you John Fraser for the information

me too, beside, I hate running the mower, more than I need to

So I've since come to like using the wash port, but only when I know I've mowed damp grass. It's not perfect, but it saves me from breaking out the scraper and the pressure washer twice a year

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I'm semi-retired, so I have the luxury of being able to pick when I mow. So I never mow damp or wet grass.

nice!

thank you and yes I completely agree.

Thank you Petrik L

nice work

thank you G Machines for the information

you are correct thank you Pauline Caruso

thank you Christopher Marshall, that's a very effective technique.

thank you Nerf Craft.

I've also owned it since day one so I had never had any sort of build up to get with I imagine it won't work well if you don't use it at the start or routinely use it

thank you for the information

it just makes sense.

you are correct, if you've not cleaned your deck before I wouldn't waste your time with the wash port.

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yup my other mowers don't have the wash port and those don't get cleaned everytime but when they do I tip them and scrap and or spray the debris off so your right if you don't use it don't bother wasting your time trying to later on it won't work as intended

yes, alcohol in the gasoline, is definitely not going to help small engine, unfortunately I think that was sort of planned.

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I worked in an auto shop for over 30 years. When they first put ethanol in the gas they had no idea what the long term effects would be. As it turned out, the ethanol ate up the nitrile rubber valve stem seals and other rubber parts. Prolonged exposure also corroded aluminum parts such as carburetors. The auto industry switched to viton valve stem seals and improved the composition of the other rubber parts to counter the effects of the ethanol once they realized ethanol wasn’t going away. We replaced a lot of valve stem seals under warranty in the’80s. Unfortunately, the small engine manufacturers weren’t so quick to follow. Not only that but cars don’t usually sit unused for 6 months at a time like lawn equipment does. The ethanol gas breaks down over time and no amount of fuel stabilizer will help. Aluminum carburetors corrode and jets clog. The gas companies are concerned only about cars and couldn’t give a rat’s behind about small engines. Now days they make their engines able to RUN on ethanol gas. The problem is that if the fuel system isn’t bone dry when stored the jets clog with broken down gas. By switching to plastic carburetors, you can usually get away just cleaning them and be back in business. I’ve seen aluminum float bowls and chambers completely destroyed by being stored with ethanol gas in them. I don’t think there was a plan from the beginning to sabotage small engines. The engines generally run fine with 10% ethanol but you just can’t store them for months without removing all of the ethanol fuel and running it until it quits. With most owners that generally doesn’t happen. Around here, you may think you have a few more weeks to mow then the weather changes suddenly and the mowers get forgotten until warm weather returns. There in lies the problem.

technically no, it's best to replace the entire coil along with the wire.

thank you Turningwrenches85

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE your welcome

from what I can tell, to comply with EPA regulations, it has to meet a certain standard, and apparently, 125 hours that time. After that the engine is going to make more emissions than acceptable but by then, most of them, will have failed anyway.

sure, try not to let it get too tall, meaning you're not going to cut more than an inch of grass each time. Also keep that blade sharp

me too, it just feels better to use.

thank yo Rob Kercheval

thank you Alfredo Cuomo.

I wasn't aware, that there was an adjustment for "float" to help It seal. Best choice is to either find a new carb, or rebuild kit.

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE the float is attached to the needle. As the fuel enters the carburetor bowl the float rises and slowly seats the needle until the bowl is full. Sometimes if the float is bad (has a hole in it) or isn’t adjusted properly the needle will never fully seat and allow the carb to over flow. I think I may just replace it with the various problems it has.

thank you Daniel Padgett.

me too, thank you Kenneth Lowe.

thank you Axell.

best way in my mind too!

thank you William Snow.

as long as you have pressurized water, whether well, spring, or city water, it'll work with it. The minerals will only add a bit of color to the underside of the deck but you'll never see it.

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Thank you for responding. My primary concern is that the minerals and salt in the well water will cause rust that could potentially damage the mower. Is that a concern? I'm also wondering because there was a person who was trying to "help' by raising the hood of a riding mower and rinsing it out with his well water (which also includes salt). I hope this doesn't cause any form of rust or damage to the mower. Do you think there is something I should be concerned about?

just a bit longer you're so close..!

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE 🥺

nice haul.

that works too.

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE YEAHH

me too, thank you qfdforme.

I know right, but it's better than physically cleaning I guess.

Oh I think it would work wonders, but after 10 years of using it, you might have used up several gallons of fuel though.

that's what I was thinking, thank you Andrew Orli.

it works well if you use it after each and every mow

that works too.

yes you are absolutely correct.

thank you D4x4Bronc

thank you Mick

you got that right

you got that right, but they still let it get too tall, it really doesn't matter what you tell them.

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE thats how they gotta pay to someone to do it for them lol

you're correct.

no unfortunately not, the blade being dull was the main culprit that.. and they let the grass get too tall as well. Cleaning is best done manually, otherwise you;ll have to wash it each and every time after use.

thank you jct300m.

it is not recommended to do that, for safety.

makes sense

there are vents on the side of the box.

yes sir.

interesting, did you figure it out?

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE not really. I think it’s something to do with a blockage from the blade to the basket

thank you Walter D.

unfortunately sounds like a real serious issue then.

thank you Chris Hayes

yes that makes sense.

thank you Matt Caldwell.

thank you Army Vet.

me too.

thank you fwflyer78.

trying to be more conscientious

@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE man, where I'm from, more people smoke green than eat it lol

thank you haneyoakie14, it makes sense.

thank you Ed Rodrigues.

same to you