Very valuable for tuning for fixed blades. Screw on a fixed blade head and shoot it at 30-40 yards and then rotate the nock and I bet you'll see a difference in impact.

The machine measures static spine. Nock tuning allows you to identify the dynamic spine of the arrow under load. This (theoretically) will generate more consistent flight because that is how the arrow behaves in the air versus rolling on a machine. Thanks for the vid!!

I nock tuned last year and got great fixed broadhead flight out to 110 yards. 528 grain arrow. rx-3 29.5" draw. I think it helps prevent broadhead planning. This year I'll be going heavier (580grains) for Roosevelt elk. Thank you for all the knowledge!

100% agree. I just started paper bare shaft tuning a new bow and had chronic 3/4 inch right tears. RH shooter and still had 1/4 inch right tears with the rest out of spec to the left and the cable guard rotated full right. It never dawned on me that my one bare shaft that I was using as a reference might have a nock tune problem. I was just clicking it on the same way (shaft sticker up). Multiple tip weights/grip styles etc couldnt improve it from there. After 4 or so hours and coming to the conclusion that I needed to get the cams shimmed, I remembered a Ranch Fairy vid and put the arrow on upside down - instant bullet hole. I then put the rest back to arrow parallel to riser and cable guard rotated back to the middle - another bullet hole. Then started to rotate in smaller increments and found a position where the bow would even tolerate a less strict grip and a bit of sloppy form and still shoot bullet holes. One of those head shaking moments and a real lesson learned. Hadn't ever wanted to get into custom arrow building but now it seems 100% necessary given that my nock tuned bare shaft will in no way represent the rest of my 'bought complete' arrows.

Nock tuning has worked great for me, got my groups much tighter and arrows flying very consistently.

Oh it matters and it’s worth it! Broadheads...fly

Fantastic Video guys!

I an okay shooter I started doing this last year and can't believe how much better my groups got like you did I shot a bare shaft at 40 yards and it flys true I will fetch arrows till in do this part great video thanks

I was amazed by how much of an impact it had on my arrow flight! it seems to help, and it dang sure doesn’t hurt anything. I do one or two arrows at a time whenever I get a free 15 minutes, so the cost/time is super manageable for me and it seems to have really helped with my broadheads! Wish I had know about it sooner!!

When bare shaft and nock tuning I always wrap electrical tape on the shaft where the vanes will go to mimic the weight. I've noticed it makes a difference in the way the shaft flexes adding that 20 grains to the tail of the arrow.

It absolutely works! I bare shaft nock tuned my arrow by shooting it through paper until i got as close to a bullet hole as possible, fletched my arrows and then papertuned again, little tweaks made, and then went to the range, my striker v2 braudheads grouped with my fieldpoints out to 80yards. Takes time but is absolutely worth it

I think it's a great idea. Especially for those people fortunate enough to be great shooters. AND for broad head set ups.

Two months later I tried this, the bow was tuned shooting older bare shaft out to 30. The arrows were X Impact 250 spine 504 grains. This worked, only one took more than a slight adjustment of tuning for 6. These are my broad head arrows for elk season. Thanks for the info.

Great Video! I spent a couple hours on practice range last Friday tuning my nocks before shooting the R-100 on Saturday and Sunday, in Harrisburg, IL. I am not sure if it did any good, but it gave me confidence that my tuned bow was shooting my arrows as best as possible. During practice, on occasion I would catch my arrows waggle left to right in flight and hit the target bag at an angle, keep turning the nock on each arrow to get a true flight and perpendicular angle into the target. It took a couple of hours. I focused on anchoring with the same hand angle, not torqueing the bow grip and consistent face pressure played a big role, before turning the nocks. So I tried to make consistent and comfortable shots that felt good.

Been waiting for this lol

Just did mine after buying some gold tip pierces and holy cow even at twenty yards I can notice how much truer the arrow flies

Great no nonsense video. I have tried bare shaft nock tuning. It works, but takes a ton of time. Now I use 4 fletch and tune the arrows after fletching. That way I have 4 positions to attempt bullet holes. Works well so far. Suggested by the Ranch Fairy in one of his videos.

Thanks for sharing this. Great tip and practical advice. I just started building my own arrows and I was concerned about spine indexing and how to do it accurately on a budget. Also wondered if it mattered inside 30 yards for whitetail. After seeing your video I'm thinking this process is more of a good idea to work towards over a necessity. If one of my arrows are off with broadheads then I'll try nock tuning my fletcher arrows. Does this sound like a good idea or am I off base? Thanks again!

It is a bit tedious but last year when I was "working up a load" for my heavy arrow build, no matter what spine bare shaft I used, some would just not tune. I was pulling my hair out making adjustments to my rest and getting one to fly great, the next? Another tear. Once I started nock tuning I was able to get all of my bare shafts to shoot either a bullet hole or a very small hole. This saved a lot of bow adjustment time and then I made sharpy mark on each shaft and the nock so I would know if the nock rotated or not and then fletched them with zingers so I didn't have to monkey around with trying to align the jig with the nock and to keep them "spined" properly. It is well worth the process folks!!!

I been nock turning and marking shafts since 2007 with ACCs through paper as well as Axis and FMJs even as they are advertised 360° spine with there carbon buildup process or rotate nock on those arrows that consistently fly outside the group to put into the group but what nock tuning does is make a forgiving arrow that hides your mistakes.

It matters for fixed blades, I 100% tested it myself. It's a very eye-opening experience. I've even got a couple arrows that I just can't get to fly well with my fixed blades but the other 5 I tested and nock tuned fly great. I did it all with a fletched arrows and I just mark which vane needs to be up.

I like the mugs on the website. I’m planning to nock tune, but am planning to strip my vanes and nock tune, then refletch. I guess I should nock tune every fletched arrow right away so that every shot, even before stripping vanes, is the best it can be.

I believe that it does matter. I get tighter groups after I bare shaft nock tune

After watching a ton of videos on bare shaft and nock tuning in general, it seems to me it makes sense to just nock tune once the arrows are fletched. Then rotating the nocks until each arrow shoots a good bullet hole multiple times. Now, as you said that is assuming you have good form and a tuned bow. The down side is, when you nock your arrows they might not always be in the same orientation when it comes to tail up down or sideways. But with today's drop away rests that does not seem to be much of an issue - technically anyway. As long as you have the nocks marked so you know which way to attach it to the string you should be good. Just my thought on this. I am getting some new arrows soon and plan to test this out myself. Very informative video still.

If you are shooting fixed blade broadheads this is absolutely crucial. I hunt deer with bow out to 80m and this is how I do it .

Been wondering this myself lately

Havinh tested a fair amount of shafts for spine consistency(both across the shaft and the lot of shafts) Ive noticed that arrows that require a lot of fiddling with the nock to get bullet holes out of each shaft do not have good spine consistency. The best, most consistent shafts usually have a large range of nock positions that'll shoot a bullet hole, and in the positions it doesn't the tear is very small. The best shafts I've tested are no longer made, and the worst shafts are very popular.

Very interesting. So would you now say spine tuning your arrows has no benefit? As the nock tuned arrows did not correlate with the spine tune?

Right on bro. Arrow supposed to fly true and straight and flat at 20 yds . I notice a little arc at 40 yds

Did you square the nock end of the shaft before starting this? It would be an interesting test if you didn't, take one of those bare shafts, square it, and see if your tune is still perfect when you realign your nock and shaft marks.

This is why SAS (spine around shaft) and consistency arrow to arrow is important. You wouldn't shoot your rifle with 5 or 6 different loads and expect it to group. So you shouldn't with arrows.

I tuned my bow with a fletched arrow. I then tuned it trough paper with bareshaft(just one arrow). I know can shoot 3" group at 80 yards with broadheads. Does it help? Sure, it can't hurt. Is it end all be all? Probably not.

Have you ever tested this with arrows that the arrow manufacturer marks the arrow spine (Victory) for tears and consistency?

It was day an night with my single bevel broadheads the slick trick did good my two blade broadheads I had to nock tune

Me personally i wait tell the fletchings are on the arrow. Ive noticed that bare shaft tuning helps but once the fletchings are on i always have to adjust the nock again. So for me waiting until there fletched and then paper tuning by rotating the nock works wonders for me. Again i know bare shaft tuning is the thing right now. But i get the same results from doing it with the fletchings on instead of doing it twice.

Why does it all have to be so frustratingly difficult?. I love hunting with a bow and really enjoy shooting my bow, but HUNTING with it is the “thing”. As if there weren’t already enough difficult things about bow hunting here’s another if you obsess over perfect flight (like most of us do). Most of us don’t have the time or setup for this perfection and most all “bow shops” I’ve ever been just want to sell you a new bow. If you’re not buying a new bow from them that year you’re just pestering them with trying to get help with a perfectly tuned setup and the ones I’ve been to I don’t think obsess over the perfection as much as me and most others on here.

Will you do a update on if the nock tuneing was worth it?

You can just take 2 feet of tape 2-3" wide, give or take. Shoot 3-6 bare shaft arrow at the center line (10-5 yards ish). Check for the ones that are not perfect arrow flight. Then, start turning knocks on those that fly wonky. This a version of 'French Tuning'. Repeat the process for the next 6 arrows. (1 dozen done)Then, paper tune if you want. It should go a little faster. PS Each archer must do it for his/her arrow/bow. We all are human & not a Hooter Shooters. We each have are minor differences' in the shot'.

Don’t even need to watch. Just fletched my second dozen arrows after learning all my bows throw shafts left/CCW, while all the off-the-rack arrows I’ve ever bought were right/CW. Initially took a dozen Axis 5mm Match arrows, knock tuned when bare, and fletched with a 2-degree left/CCW blazer vane, and my groups tightened up SIGNIFICANTLY. Second dozen were Easton Accucarbon 6.5’s. Similar result, darn near halved the size of my groups (basically went from shooting ‘pie plates’ at 60, to ‘fist sized’ groups. BOG change IMO!). Buying vanes in bulk, buying another two Bitz, and re-fletching EVERYTHING else (after a nock tune, of course).

The thing of it is if it flies perfect without vanes it'll do perfect if you error in your shot

This problem is very known by olympic recurve shooters: they call it "spline". All arrows were splinded with different methods, I tried it with a spine measure machine from Bearpaw to look where the softest side of arrows is. And They flechted all her arrows so, that all have the same "SPLINE" probable on top oder bottom. Should be for better grouping. Probable has Jake K. more Info ?

I did this last year and it made a huge difference in groups at distance! Bothers me a little though...how do you know your bow is actually tuned? In the past i would get good hole with 1 arrow and move on to other methods. With this you tune to that first arrow but all others could have strange tear, so is bow really tuned? Or does it really even matter if all your arrows shoot a clean hole? I'm clearly overthinking this, but curious on thoughts.

This step is mandatory at my house lol. I also shoot 100yrds+ all the time. But what's a nock vane 😂 mine are all the same color. The mold like on my nock is my index!

Ranch Fairy approved.

I bare shaft. Mostly cause I enjoy it but I’m also trying to get every bit of energy I can even if this is tiny. But I do have some arrows that are way more dramatic

When you say odd vane along the stiff line, do you care if it's at the top or bottom?

I think spinning the arrow when gluing in the inserts is more of a help from what I’ve seen.

I think you are over looking the most important part of the arrow, the nock. You are using an injection molded nock to interface with the inside tolerance of your shaft. Unless you verify that your nock slot is truely perpendicular with the centerline of the shaft you will have a variance in the launch angle from the string deflection. Take a nock from an arrow set up that you are happy with and put it in a troublesome arrow and see if it improves that arrow. Pin nock set ups and arrows with nock collars seem to be more reliable in the long run of the arrow life.

Fletch six of them with the nock tuned and Fletch six of them randomly shoot groups at long range and see if it makes a difference.

Just curious did you take more then 1 shot per adjustment...i never tried nock tuning i might give it a shot on this new set of x impacts i normally just spine align then bareshaft 1 of them at 15yds

I always nock tune my bare shaft before I tune my bow. Otherwise you could be chasing your tail.

Did i hear correct? You didn't see a difference in turning the nock on fletched shafts after nock tuned bare shaft?

what happened to spine aligning?

Honestly can't believe you never did this beforehand

Do u step back tune your bow before doing this ?

Always nock tune my broadheads the past few years

Which TAC event are you going to?

Was there any consistency on spine orientation after being nock tuned or were all arrows different?

Isn’t this the same thing as group tuning? I do this at 80 and it makes a MASSVIE difference even in fletched flight.

During your nock tuning process did you happen to change out the nock (keeping track of original nock orientation), and see if it was the same Bullet hole?

What arrow recommendation do you have for hunting deer furthest shot 40 yards 70 pound pse evo ntn at 28 inches shooting a four blade broadhead

Don’t have to watch the video and can answer the question.....yes it is worth it

I wondered this after nock tuning and I don’t have a spine tester to check for actual spine location so I just nocked tuned and got all arrows hitting a bullet hole. This was a great video explaining that and your findings.

Do aluminum arrows need to be nock tuned? I'm setting up some Easton 2315 shafts and no matter where I place the nock they seem to all shoot the same through paper. Is this common for aluminum? Thanks

Here's a question for you - after nock tuning, if fletching with a 3 degree helical, do you align the front (tip side) or the back(nock side) of the indicator vane with your mark?

If you have a hooter shooter next time do it with that

What about arrows that are already spine aligned marked already. Recently bought some victory SS. Should I still nock tune or just fletch them since I they are already aligned from factory. 🤔

I have a odd question when I'm at full draw and I looked through my peep half of my site is behind the visor

Never believed this until I tried it.....

What if you use pin nocks?

If there are steps that I can make my arrows better tuned, I’m doing it. If that means nock tuning after I spine index, then #thisistheway 🏹

Hi, would you recommend to use feather fletches for compound bow?

Compare a nock tuned arrow with broadhead to one that isn’t and see what happens.

My shop help me wt paper tuning. And arrow tuning. When I bought my fmj.arrows. and they did not charge me any more money. And it took about a hour. I also bought my bow from them. I guess some shops will go that extra mile for there customers.

Sounds like it doesn't matter to nock tune with a bare shaft. When you rotated the nock on the bare shaft you had issues but not when fletched. Seems get a bullet hole with fletched arrows and your good.

Always listen to the ranch fairy haha

I’ve never spine indexed or nock tuned. My arrows fly great, so it seems like a waste of time to me.

Ranch Fairy told us to do bareshaft tuning. I listened. It surely works. Put in the extra effort and see the results.

It does matter with vanes. I do my nock tuning with vanes. There is still a difference.

I found spine marking is a waste time, I nock tune all arrows, it doesn't get any better.

What about just switching out nocks to see if its the nocks

My older bowtech marquis shoots better than my new Hoyt

My field points nock tune different than broadheads so definitely shoot your broadheads

to tune, or nock to tune

And.....if you're shot execution isn't damn near perfect...... this is about worthless as well. I typically nock tune outside and it's amazing how a badly executed shot will really whip the arrow. It's really visible. I'm also not how much it helps for field tips but I do know every little bit helps with adult broadheads!

"I hate thick cotton. I prefer cheap shear garbage cotton that rips the first thing that touches it"

One bullet hole means nothing. You’re human and your form isn’t exactly the same every time. Shoot a few more with the nock turned wrong and you’ll get a bullet hole and vice versa. If you’re gonna use an average you need a dozen shots. I’ve nock tuned hundreds of arrows and very few have not shot good holes “on average.” Tune now/one arrow to a bullet hole and then shoot the rest and i bet regardless of nock orientation if your bow is tuned you get good holes with darn near every arrow.

my dasd hit me with a nock ansd he said knocj knock and i died hlep