How

I would say that if you do keep Bose, then it will max out overall volume at a certain point. The LOC may be the issue with frequencies, but I am not sure as I don’t handle professional installs. It works as intended for me. It may also be your amp settings.

Light Green Positive Dark Green Negative. I think around the 4 min mark there is a shot of where I tapped the harness.

It has four wires color coded. The packaging it comes in will tell you which is pos left pos right neg left neg right. I twisted the 2 pos and 2 neg together. You only need one signal so the left and right doesn't matter here. I used a soldering gun, wire nuts, and electric tape.

J C, thanks man! Appreciate the help!

Tap in to it, if you cut it one of your speaker will have no sound

My LOC had four wires, l and r pos and neg...I just twisted the 2 pos and 2 neg together and used a single input. Since you're picking up the lows, picking left or right doesn't matter.

Okay well it worked. I have a 2010 Avalanche LTZ with Bose and I was installing a powered sub from Rockville. I tapped all 4 subwoofer wires, the ones before it enters the small clip. L+ DrkBlu/Wh L- LtGrn/Bl R+ DrkGrn R- LtBlu/Bl I used the Axxess 80w 2 channel LOC with the remote turn on capability. Mounted in cup holder compartment. Used taps for the audio signal, grounded the LOC on the same spot as the amplifier ground, and received constant 12v from the RIGHT junction box, passenger side, I used the red and white wire on the harness second from the top, 1st row, 4th wire. I would go into the rest, but I think it's easy enough to figure out all the rest of the wiring, it's just that damn audio signal and where to tap that seems to screw people up and give tons of different information. Who knows, maybe it's due to the many different options. For the sake of whoever is reading this, I have the UQA rpo sound system with rear DVD, onstar, nav, all the LTZ stuff. It should be mentioned that I have my amp filtered to a very low pass as I am only using it to fill in the bass on what is otherwise a nice system. I would caution against using the subwoofer tap if you plan to use the amp for speakers. Good luck everyone!

@@timthetoolpool thanks zach quick question though

Do you have any update on how this worked for you?

@@apimpnamedslickback2748 Still working.

@@timthetoolpool Nice, thanks!

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JC when you used the converter did u have to run a big red cable to the battery for ur amp

MogulMafiaProduction Yes! You most definitely need an Amp Wiring Kit. It’ll have your RCA cables, Ground wire (brown), Power wire (red), remote wire (blue)

You do need the remote power ON from your key/accessory to turn on the amp. I tapped into the dull pink wire. Of course you are still running a red power cable from the battery to the amp and your ground cable. That isn’t covered in the video.

@@JC-kq3ny i wired the yellow cable to the pos from the cigarrete lighter lines nd the neg also

When i accelerate i can hear it in the woofer ?

@@mexicanox5ify you probably have a bad ground connection for your amp and it’s picking up that noise as a signal. That is wiring related somewhere.

you could, but I went there so I could also get the remote power turnon.

@@JC-kq3ny ok I was just making sure that the factory Bose amp wouldn't interfere with the loc, I've hooked several up but never to Bose or anything of the sort. I usually just run the remote from the loc to the amp and it works

I wouldn't tap into wires after the bose amp...get it upstream before the bose amp.

@@JC-kq3ny thanks a lot

Alton Hale It’s the smaller, dull, solid pink one with no stripes at all on it.

@@JC-kq3ny they all have stripes on them

Use the pink wire with the smaller white stripe (there is also a pink with fat white stripe). It's located in the same area as the thick black ground wire (tap into that for your ground) on the left side of the main wiring harness.

That's easy bro. Just tap into the speaker wires going to the doors after the amplifier. There are three or four harness plugged into the amp. Follow the harness that is the output of the amp speakers and run a speed wire to your amp.

Costs a lot of money especially with the Bose system

😂 Thanks for the perspective, but it’s the same for whatever you put in. I now have a new Skar amp and 2 EVL Skar subs ~$900 valued system.

DB Link HLC3 High/Low Converter www.amazon.com/dp/B001NCDAXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Qe3QBbYZsTo4e It was only about 6 bucks when I got it, but it’s still out there.

Me either ...