Good thinking. I will be using this method myself.

So ur vortec is like mine it didn’t come with the 3rd bypass hole on the passenger side of the engine where the water pump mounts espiecsllt if ur using a old school water pump u could of used ur heater core as a bypass from the heater core back to the passenger side on the intake manifold cool passenger side that way also instead of having to drill that hole if ur not running a heater core u could of drilled into ur thermostat and had constant flow threw out the whole engine to keep it cool depending on ur application brother

Most heater cores do not have a constant flow and have a valve installed and are manually or climate control activated to stop the water flow .. when that valve is closed there is no circulation... a small hole drilled into the thermostat is good for bleeding out air from the top of the motor but is not enough to allow proper circulation... the bypass hole is 3/8 of an inch to feed the water pump if there is no hose from the intake to the top of the water pump... you're not going to get any volume of water supply passing through a tiny hole in the thermostat...

In addition my Vortec came with the bypass hole in the block that was drilled halfway through so I just had to continue drilling it the rest of the way... problem solved

I'm sorry.

​@@calvinpochinko4277i think the heads are missing the bypass holes. My 97 vortec had water bypass in block, had all timing cover holes and fuel pump provisions. Maybe i got lucky. I drilled two 3/16 holes in thermostat just in case.

right on

He's been making videos since '78!! Holy crap, that's a long time!! Like on public access TV or something?

5$ a pop for those mags and you kind of got a weed out the advertisements they use in their parts choice. David vizard books would to cut through the bull nowadays for free you can see 100 different channels how people do it right and wrong and decipher the information for your self for free in videos I believe this is the best ERA ever for a gear head that wants to learn damn LS motors are a cheat code! Those good factory heads are the LEFT RIGHT LEFT RIGHT UP DOWN UP DOWN B A B A SELECT START! all you need is a cam, converter and limited slip

I just wait until it's all together, then just weld up the opening! Never leaks after that!

Yes, he hasn't lost his mind yet and become a woman!!.. thank Christ!

I'd say it's yes so far but keep in mind I haven't done many in the last 5 years the flat tappet cam issue is complicated, I have gone to rollers only just because I don't want the hassle, but sometimes a customer just throws so much money at you we do what they want but yes the cam and lifters in this engine were measured very carefully before install we did find them to be acceptable, (By the way they were from Howard's Cams) I have used a dozen or so Howards both roller and flat tappets I have never found and issue with quality or had one fail just in case anyone is interested, I've had a bunch of comp cams stuff grenade, and yes I name them because they have never given me any kind of warranty at all they just blame me so I'm done with them, But even at That I would not build this with a warranty I made the customer sign an agreement that stated no warranty whatsoever on this engine in the event of a cam or lifter failure fortunately for him it's still going strong with around 10k miles. www.howardscams.com/

They just call it polished.

Yes I always lube any fastener that I torqued.

Thats a good question aside from the fact that I was stretched way too thin and time was a big factor The biggest reason was after research and consulting with good friends of mine in the auto and race industry, it became clear that the truck would need a complete new suspension including Tubs and 4 Link as well as a complete Cage in order to do it correctly, I honestly just didn't want to spend the kind of money it was going to take, even with friends help and my skills as well it added up north of 50K I just couldn't go there not for an 80's S10 it can be done cheaper but with that kind of power it's a waste it will never be put to the wheels. and the truck would eventually twist the frame so to do it cheap it would just be for show and I'm not into that

@@Myvintageiron7512 ya that's true definitely valid points for sure

Is the 1255 the gasket he used. Thanks

No

My mig welder works better!

I actually bought the studs at a hardware store make sure they are grade 8 if you do the same ARP also has a kit pretty cheap

the TBI years had the same bolt pattern as vortec just tell them its a 1990 5.7 Liter it will be the correct flex plate

You can use a 87 and up 305 or 350 flex plate or flywheel

Cracked?

No sorry

I used 2 1/2 " carb studs and sealed them with the same rtv as the manifold. 2" would work but I just wanted something to tie down my 10.5 mm spark plug cables and wiring. Spectrum studs have starred ends torqued at 15ft lbs just like the nuts.

I can understand how you can torque the 4 outter studs into the heads but how do you torque the 4 inner studs to the heads when the holes go clean through .... Thanks

@@haniballecter7605 F**ked him up on that question, didn't ya? ROFLMFAO!!

​@@haniballecter7605most studs have a shoulder were threads end, they are not just lengths of all thread.

Loctite makes a specific thread sealer for head bolts and bolts that enter water jackets, thats what i used.

I started drilling the heads and Intakes a long time ago before I discovered the Gaskets shown in the video because every gasket I tried even the so called performance ones blew out after a few thousand. miles, I have never had a set of these Fel-Pro gaskets blow in 5 years probably 25 or 30 engines worth they are all still going so really no need

@Myvintageiron7512 Not so much as a need to do it, but more like added insurance and fixing a factory oversight. The manufacturer went cheap with their design. That said, whenever I replaced a 4.0 Ford engine, I knew that the factory rear main seal was problematic at best. So much so that Ford updated the seal. They incorporated a speedy sleeve into the seal, and listed a special tool to install it. What I changed the engine, the rebuilders used the old seal. Out with the seal, and in with the upgraded one. I don't like going back in to anything. Once is enough for me. )

Yes the best way is the use the same Carburetor intake in my video its just an edelbrock made to adapt a 4 barrel to vortec heads there is a real good quality TBI adaptor that bolts on top of this intake I have used this one on several TBI engines that we swapped to vortec heads the cool part is it works with all the aftermarket intakes for the vortec heads www.amazon.com/Khaos-Motorsports-Carberetor-Edelbrock-Manifold/dp/B084YSPZTS www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2116

@@8luggarage you can use an early style cover on a Vortec block you just need to get the dowl pins and insert them into the block the Vortec cover had the dowels incorporated into the plastic cover if you need the crank sensor you halfto stick with the plastic cover and you can not run a double roller

​@@Myvintageiron7512 thanks for the reply. I have a double roller timing chain set on my 350 vortec, and I had to take a hammer to the inside of the timing cover to tap it out further so it didn't make contact with the timing set. It's a carburated setup.

Right? I want to know that too

That's a personal question!

Yeah I know Right

Thats what I was gonna say

Break in video.

Looks like all he wanted was the vortec heads for better flow. It's all good. Some flat tappet setups actually do well on a mild build. Very cost friendly. I dont see anything wrong with what he did..

@@Myvintageiron7512 would it be possible for you to reply to this and give me a good recommendation for a intake manifold for a mild to mid build vortec Chevy but I want to carb swap it when I do but I don’t want to have to drill out a new intake manifold

go to bed old man