What about the waste control plug? If turbo doesnt have hole for it?

Thanks buddy!

How many miles did it go out at if you remember?

Yeah buddy I replaced 3 of the factory VGT turbos in the past few months alone! This turbo set up works really well, the customer absolutely LOVES it! Plus its only slightly more expensive then replacing the VGT with a factory remanufactured turbo. When I took it for a test drive I was amazed at the quick spool time and the power it has. Only downside is no exhaust brake in my opinion.

@@darkirondiesel Yeah vgt is personally my choice. I need the exhaust brake plus on my truck if I want it quiet adjusting the vanes is basically a variable muffler 😂 I have it set in the middle for spool up and at 22psi it opens all the way. It's super responsive

VGT отстой?)) Может управление турбиной отстой?))

Any response? I am doing this but havent had answers...

No one will answer that

Thank you!

Did you figure it out? Send me a picture on instagram if you’re still having issues

Yes it is the worst part hahah

I’ve been asking the same th8ng

Samw question here

Turbo size (more importantly, the exhaust housing size and A/R) and fueling. That’s why with these BD kits they say “up to XXX HP” and have fueling as well as AR recommendations for each kit/size. (Turbo sizing for the application is key.) In my case I went with the S364.5 kit. - It recommends the .91 AR, stock injectors and stock pump. (They next size up recommends fueling over stock.) I spoke with BD and they advised going with this kit and the .91 AR given I tow. DD recommended the 1.0 AR for room to grow later on down the road if I decided to upgrade fueling, etc; which would reduce the chances of over speeding the turbo and further reduce EBP. I have no plans in the foreseeable future to upgrade my fueling, etc. - So, .91 AR it was. Plus I have the F’n 68RFE… Anyway, you do lose some low end spool switching to a fixed geometry, but it can be combated with “Low Boost Fueling” in the tune; which mine was. I have ZERO regrets going with this kit. - I do miss the EB, but so far haven’t truly required it. With that said, one can always be added later on. For the record, I am 100% maxing out the OEM MAP sensor. It pegs 37.4 psi and stays there. Doing the math off of the EBP sensor, I’m hitting 53 - 55 pounds of boost on “full send” if you will. The ratio for the most part is 1:1 now. Sometimes less when simply cruising. - Which is a MASSIVE improvement over the VGT and it’s restrictive, bottle neck exhaust housing. And not to mention, it sounds sooo much better. You can hear the “thirl” in the exhaust at idle and spool up and down is now there. - Not second gen style, but definitely there. I do however miss the “jet sound” on startup, especially cold mornings. - I’m sure my neighbors feel the exact opposite however. 🤣 Edit: This truck is my first diesel, so I am no expert by any means. - But, this is my understanding from my research, speaking with my tuner, BD & DD. Mod list if interested: * BD Iron Horn kit * BD trans pan * BD trans cooler thermostat delete * BD diff covers * RevMax billet valve body * BMP CAT filter conversion * Banks intercooler and piping * Banks Monster Ram * Banks intake * Banks grid heater delete * Banks 5” filter back exhaust * G&R throttle valve delete * Flo-Pro goodies * Two Banks iDash’s w/ thermocouple module * EFI LIVE AutoCal V3, CSP5 switch and CCS tune(s) to include TCM. * Thuren 2” leveling kit w/ F & R Fox shocks * Thuren front sway bar w/ HD end links * Thuren steering stabilizer w/ single Fox * Thuren rear HD sway bar end links. * Synergy HD steering upgrade kit * Dethloff Mfg rear sway bar spacer (sway bar barely kissed diff cover when pulling loaded trailer out of sand.) * 17” KMC Mesa’s wrapped in 35” BFG AT’s. * Exhaust, turbo exhaust housing, turbo manifold, intercooler piping and intake horn all JetHot coated black. (They have a location right down the street from me.)

I’m assuming getting rid of the VGT gets rid of your exhaust brake

@@parkerpasco3879 yep. The trucks only have an exhaust brake ability because of the VGT turbo, remove the VGT and your exhaust braking is gone

The customer says it’s awesome! He said it’s way better then it was before, plus he is claiming to get 13-14 L/100km while towing a 20,000 pound cattle trailer.

They would be for egr if the truck still had it

@@Lairdoestuff The ports I was referring to are the 2 little threaded ports at the turbo collector. I believe one is for the factory EGR sensor and one is for an aftermarket EGR sensor if desired. The kit comes with plugs for these ports if they're not needed.

That's where I put my Autometer EGT probe. Temps are more accurate there IMHO over the rear EGR block off.

No, no wastegate. It regulates the boost by moving the vanes inside the turbo

That's an unfortunate answer from the guys that just installed a fixed geometry turbo.

It’s gotta have a leak somewhere. Make sure the turbo flange is tight and the boost pipe going to the intercooler. If it’s not building boost it must have a leak where the pressure is escaping.

Nope I’ve never removed that stuff to change a turbo on a 6.7, but some People have commented saying it’s easier if you remove that stuff

@@darkirondiesel Right on. Great vid, thanks for the quick answer. I don't mean to hijack DID's vid, but I just wanted to add a few things I couldn't find anywhere else. '17 Ram, 364SXE 1.0, 5" turbo back, S&B cold air, GDP horn, heater grid delete, sea level, 4.44 gears, 37's, DRD tunes. Day 1: Just started the swap this afternoon. Seriously, I don't know how you do this without pulling all those things. You must have monkey arms. LOL! Your video certainly makes it look a whole lot easier than what it is. I opted to remove everything mentioned and it still wasn't a walk in the park, but it sure made it a helluva lot easier to get to everything. One of the harder jobs I've done. Day 2: OK...I highly recommend getting some help from a friend and pulling the wheel well liner. Pulling the oil drain at the bottom is kind of tough because of the heat shield. I used an angled pry bar to "manipulate" it just enough to get a socket on the bolt heads. You'll have to use 3/8" drive. There are extensions that allow the socket to slightly angle in four directions kinda like a universal. Buy one. The driver's side rear flange bolt was a pain. All were very tight. You'll just have to wrestle them the best you can. I used the "double wrench" method. With the turbo out, bend the heat shield forward and down. Turbo installed after even more heat shield manipulation. With the wheel well liner removed you can actually access the bottom of the new turbo without going underneath...at least to get the gasket in and bolts started. Finish up by tightening the driver's side bolt from underneath and passenger side from over the frame rail. Contrary to some videos, I did not have to remove the alignment pin in the exhaust elbow. After installing turbo, there was a 1" gap between the elbow and exhaust down pipe. "Simple bolt in installation". OK. So had to adjust exhaust pipe joints to compensate for length. I also did a Pusher coolant standpipe delete. I'll do another review of that, there were a few issues...and at that price. I've bounced around here, but hopefully it has helped someone. Tomorrow...button up, retune and start. Day 3: Final inspection and start. All is good. Spools fast. Sounds great. There is a slight whistle around 1500 rpm, but you have to listen for it. Sound aside, it spools just as fast as the VGT under most conditions. I'm running the 90 horse setting, not much smoke unless you get into it pre-spool. It looks like I also got a one mpg increase. Exhaust note is better and a touch louder. It will swing almost 40 psi boost at WOT. While this is a lot of work, I'm overly happy with it. But I sure do miss my exhaust brake. ;-) A weeks worth of driving: If you're looking for that big turbo sound, forget it. Super fast spool to nearly 40 psi and about 1mpg increase in fuel economy. Still miss the exhaust brake and would like some noise, oh well. Overall, I'm very happy and totally recommend it. I hope this has helped. Oh...one more thing. If you decide later to install a center dump 2nd gen manifold check with the manufacturer to see if this turbo is compatible. The integrated charge elbow is proprietary and not compatible with other manufacturers. I inquired with WC Fab re: their tubing kit. No worky. So if you buy this setup, make sure it's what you want. FWIW.

I believe this truck has a flo pro 5” exhaust with muffler (resonator)

Dark Iron Diesel Right on thanks for the reply buddy love the videos

Thanks buddy!

Have you called BD directly and talked to someone in sales? They could probably sell you a manifold without egr ports. What are you going to do about the intake though? Get an aftermarket intake elbow?

@@darkirondiesel Yes I have contacted BD and asked about their other manifold but they said it would'nt fit with the kit... Yes I intend to get an aftermarket intake elbow too

@@codydonovan7356 A couple of things: - That S363SX-E (not to be confused with anything from the old S300SX line-up) is absolutely not too small for the 6.7 Cummins. That turbo can flow enough air (78 lbs/min) to support at least 600whp and can spin past 122,000 RPM. - There are two sizes of turbines to choose from: a 68/76mm and a 74/80mm. The smaller one will spool a touch quicker but be slightly more restrictive (higher overall EGTs). The larger will spool a touch slower but be less restrictive (lower overall EGTs). - Turbine housing A/R (.88, .91, 1.0, 1.10) will shift your boost curve to the right of the graph the larger you go. Additionally, the larger the A/R the less restriction to exhaust gasses. So overall EGTs will be lower the larger you go. In turn, a smaller A/R housing will spool quicker but have higher overall EGTs. - Overspooling is directly related to rotating mass. The S363SX-E has a considerably less rotating mass as compared to say a conventional S467.7SX. The former, has a 63mm compressor wheel and 76mm turbine, where the latter a 68mm and 83mm turbine. The larger the distance from the center of the wheel (compressor or turbine) the more energy it takes (time) to start moving it (spool) and the less RPM it can withstand before coming apart. This is why we see people with a S472SX (72mm compressor/83mm turbine) running a .9 A/R turbine housing and big injectors frequently explode turbos. They are just too big to be running at those speeds and structurally cannot take it. Where as a smaller turbo is just fine moving that fast, albeit they move less air. That said, I have the S369SX-E with the 80mm turbine and .91 A/R housing on my stock fuel 2014 2500 (there's a few vids of it on my channel, if interested). Even with low boost fueling and running on the race tune, there is significant lag. It's not something that makes the truck undrivable or anything, but it's far from how a VGT spools or how the S363SX-E would spool. This turbo lights around 1900-2000 RPMs and likes to "live" around 1800 RPM at a minimum. The reality is that this turbo is a tad too large for stock fuel, but I knew that and planned on getting larger injectors down the road. My best advice is to figure out what you're going to use the truck for and what power level you desire and go from there. If you tow a lot and are staying with a stock injector, go with the S363. If you tow sometimes and want some room for reasonable fuel mods, get into the 364.5 or 366.

@@monsterram6617 Thanks man! That was extremely helpful. I don't tow often. The truck is mainly a daily driver and I haul/tow occasionally. I don't plan on getting bigger injectors, but maybe n the future. I mainly want to stay close to stock horsepower for now. I think I'm leaning more towards the 364.5 or 366.

@@monsterram6617 lots of info there thank you for the wright up.

I don’t understand... you shouldn’t have any codes on your truck at any time regardless of tuning or not. If you have a code then something is wrong.

You’re still going to have to tune, but if it already has efi live just get whoever wrote the original tunes to send you new tunes for the turbo kit

Yeah the iron horn turbo kits aren’t VGT turbos therefore they don’t have an exhaust brake.

@@darkirondiesel what brand of exhaust brake does it work for this setup?

Thank you! 👊🏻

Because it’s way easier to instal and achieves pretty much the same thing. I think the only difference between this and a 2nd gen swap is the placement the turbo is mounted on the exhaust manifold.

The modern VGT turbos have more parts (electronic actuator, mechanical turbo vanes) and they are prone to failing over time. So a fixed geometry turbo is just more reliable long term.

@@darkirondiesel would you recommend this change asap or say when the stock turbo goes out?

@@everett24 wait until your VGT fails. You’ll lose the exhaust brake so enjoy that while it all works

I don’t remember exactly, I think with a wrench from underneath. I remember it was super not fun.

Wrench from the bottom. There is no other way.

I bought mine last night for 1756.00

Free...if you do it yourself. ;-)

If I get one in the shop I will definitely film it!

I did prime it

Sorry. I missed it the first time I watched.

No you lose the exhaust brake.

Hmm I dunno man probably around 10 hours labour plus parts