Thank you for the kind comment and encouragement. The channel has been a lot of fun.

I work with professional engineers on a daily basis. Some of the most talented brains with no functional ability I have ever known. Thanks for the tutorial Brian!!

LOL, Thank you. It's actually hard to do! I'm always tempted and sometimes succumb to the side story😂 Thank you for watching and subbing, I appreciate it.

Hey Brian. Other videos show the installer using the negative terminal on the switch, not the positive. Is that correct?

@@scottswannie2500 it's not incorrect, but not how I would do it. This can get complicated, but it's not that hard to follow. I believe the confusions comes from the idea that when you remove a battery, you should remove the negative terminal first. If you want to stop your car battery from dying, when you're not going to use it for a while, you disconnect the negative side. So when people go to install a kill switch, naturally some throw it on the negative side. It seems logical, it works, and most will never experience a problem. However, the truth of "shoulds" & "should nots" with DC has to do with the highest likelihood of inadvertent short circuits. When removing a battery, the most frequent is touching + to the chassis while it's bonded to the -side of battery.... ~ZAP~ Therefor you remove the NEG first. None of this applies to a disconnect on a camper. The likelihood of short, in this case, is breaking the continuity of the ground when the positive side is still energized. For instance, changing a switch or light in the camper with the kill switch in the disconnect position - no problem if it's positive switched- really high chance of throwing sparks and fuses if you have the switch on the negative. I know this is a long answer, but I get asked a lot, so maybe I'll copy and paste it...lol There's a reason why almost 100% of industry pros put the switch on the positive in this application. They will put it on the negative in "floating" systems like phone systems because they're grounded differently. - -In short, BOTH work fine, but the data is strongly on the side of the positive switch team. When you ask someone why they do negative, they usually say, "bc that's the way I've always done it..." Hope this helps!

@@DIYOutdoorLife Thanks much. Great explanation

you are correct. back in the old days I was a M1 turret mechanic.expensive gear in there. we killed pos term for same reasons you mentioned.

Thank you, I appreciate everyone supporting the channel and will try to keep the videos coming. The more people getting outdoors the better!

Thank you, really happy you swung by!

Thank you ⚡️

That story is all too common, they mostly want that commission check... lol Thank you for watching!

Haha... thanks for watching!

you got this! feel free to circle back with any questions. I appreciate you watching and commenting. SUBSCRIBE: kzfaq.info

You got this! Feel free to reach out if a question comes up or you have a request for vid.

That's great, I really appreciate reading comments like that.

Thanks Jason, I appreciate you tuning in!

Thank you!

Thank you so much, I really appreciate you swinging by. Check out our other videos and subscribe!

Thank you for that. I’m excited to see people tackling these jobs themselves.

Thank you- good luck with the project!

Thank you for watching, I appreciate the comment!

That’s great, good luck w the project. Thanks for watching!

thanks so much for swinging by and commenting, glad it was helpful!

So glad it helped! Great idea about addressing multi wire systems in a video, thanks!

Thank you so much, I really appreciate that youre watching the channel!

@@DIYOutdoorLife - installed same switch last week on my pop up. thanks again.

@@donoimdono2702 nice!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you, I appreciate you watching!

Happy to help! Let me know how you make out with the project.

Thank you, I appreciate you watching!

Glad it helped and thank you for subscribing. Gotta do some begging early on to get the channel off the ground…haha -as for the switching side w DC, the debate has been going on forever. The truth is either side works and gets the job done. When working with DC, it comes down to which is “best” - usually related to avoiding short circuits. With a system that is bonded and grounded to chassis, like an RV, you do not want to break or switch that ground. With phone systems or “floating” systems it doesn’t matter. Take for instance servicing a light or water pump on the rv, if the positive side was intact and you touched a wire to metal, you would complete the circuit and the appliance would turn on… this wouldn’t happen with positive switching. It’s complicated and easier to do demonstrations to show the difference. Hope this helps and good luck with your project!

Thanks for tuning in!

Thank you, good luck with the project and I appreciate the sub!

Thank you for watching and commenting!

Great improv! I appreciate you swinging by and commenting!

I’m glad you did too, thanks for watching.

Thank you for tuning in. If you go through the comments, we talk about this in greater detail. There is still potential at the devices if you switch the negative, while you open up your pathway to ground. There is no situation where this is advantageous over switching the positive. Every governing body that inspects or regulates DC electrical systems has mandated that you switch the positive and maintain on interrupted, and on fused pathway from chassis to the negative, the rest is urban legend. When you’re adding and removing a chassis ground battery, you definitely remove the negative first. For some reason people think that applies to DC master switch, it doesn’t, it’s a completely different situation.

Thank you, I appreciate that.

Welcome aboard! Thanks for swinging by and subbing.

Nice, Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

I'm so glad you found the channel! We're really happy to have you...and I love Norm! haha thanks for watching!

Thank you, I appreciate you watching.

Welcome, really happy to have you on board! I know you’ll love those mods, feel free to reach out if you run into any issues 👍

I'm glad it was helpful. thank you for watching! SUBSCRIBE: kzfaq.info

Thanks Jack! Hope the project goes well for you, check my other videos and subscribe for more!!

That's great to hear, thank you for watching!

Comments like this make my day! Thank you for watching and good luck with your project.

Thank you, that means a lot!

I’m glad it helped. Check out our other videos to see if it’s worth subbing! SUBSCRIBE: kzfaq.info

@@DIYOutdoorLife how long is your short wire going to the switch?

@@ryanwalsh5305 it’s the one in vid description… off hand I think it was a foot

Hi Alan, I used to try to not offend people, "Which ever way works best for you..." The truth is, the negative side switch is wrong, plain and simple...lol An RV has a chassis ground, when you switch the negative side, you introduce an elevated risk to appliances by maintaining "potential" at the device, when the battery is turned off. It can get complicated, but the evidence is clear that switching the positive and removing that potential, while maintaining a pathway to ground, is superior in this situation. The reason people get this mixed up, is due to the simple rule that you learn when working on cars. When removing a battery, always take the negative off first. This is a rule to reduce the risk of short circuits. If you took the positive off first, you risk bridging a metal tool from the positive to any of the metal under the hood. It all has to do with the highest likelihood of short circuits. If you're installing a switch, it is different than removing a battery. The risk is of shorts downstream, you're not moving the battery through a tight metal space. The industry puts master battery switches on red 100% of the time, when the negative side is the ground. I hope this makes sense, sorry if I took me a page to respond 😀

Thank you, I appreciate you watching and the kind words!

Thank you, I appreciate you swinging by.

Thanks for tuning in, I have to catch up on some destination unknown!

Thank you, I hope you like the other videos on the channel. We’re trying to organize vids in playlists.

Indeed, I have. I watched tons last night since we purchased our first trailer. Learned a lot! Thank you for what you do

@@cdawgRJ Thank you, that means a lot. Congratulations on the trailer, what did you get?

Thank you! Got a Coleman Lantern 17B. Small and more affordable but excited to create memories with the family

@@cdawgRJ Nice, let us know how you make out!

Thank you, really glad it was helpful.

Thank you Cosmo! Keep me in the loop about getting together again...more Catskill sites to show you!

Thank you, I’m glad you found us!

Thanks for watching!

Nice!

Thank you for watching!

Congratulations on the new camper! Feel free to reach out if any questions pop up.

@@DIYOutdoorLife will do. Already ordered the part and will have it tomorrow. Looks pretty straight up after watching the video. Have to find a piece of wire and a few connectors, I’ll find out the gauge when I get home from work today. Have a great weekend!

@@TwoCaptainsOneShip you too!

Thank you for watching!

Congratulations! I knew you could do it!

Thank you, I appreciate that. Feel free to request videos on helpful topics too!

@@DIYOutdoorLife I looked at my battery today and I have two wires coming off positive side. A 10 AWP to the trailer and a 14 AWP going to my tongue jack. I’m assuming the AWP is the wire gauge? Which gauge should I get for the bypass and how do I wire both red wires into the disconnect switch. Thanks.

@@lauriewhittle3452 you’ll want to attach a 10 gauge to your new switch. You can then attach both the tongue jack wire and the camper wire to the other side of the switch -or- you can attach your tongue jack wire to the positive side of the battery. In the first application, the switch will turn everything off, in the second, your jack will work whether you’re switched on or off. For me, I like to have everything switch off, so I attach both jack and camper wire to one side of switch and use 10 or 8 gauge from other side of switch to battery positive. I hope this helps, feel free to email if you want me to draw you a crude diagram.

@@DIYOutdoorLife I understand. Just moving both wires to the same terminal on the disconnect switch and the new wire to the other terminal on switch and run it to the positive side of the battery. I have looked high and low for a 10 guage wire with the ends. Any idea or a link to where I can order it?

@@lauriewhittle3452 I make them on the bench, they’re probably tough to buy on Amazon. Just use an eight gauge, marginal price difference, easy to use and find. amzn.to/35mks6o Hope this helps!

Thanks for tuning in Mickey.

Thanks for watching. There’s definitely a lot to learn but it can be fun 🤩

I appreciate you swinging by, thanks for subbing!

Thank you so much. I used to be a teacher full time, I still like making some instructionals on KZfaq.

I really appreciate that, thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you, glad to have you on board!

Thank you, I appreciate you watching.

Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!

I've been there, it gets costly. How long was it in storage? SUBSCRIBE: kzfaq.info

@@DIYOutdoorLife, ~6 weeks. That said, we try and go camping about every 4-5 weeks, the batteries are always drained, but I've always been able to hook up the truck and use the tongue jack.

@@beaujossel3791 definitely time for the kill switch install! It's fast and will save a lot of money.

thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching

Appreciate you tuning in!

Nice, should be a fun project.

@@DIYOutdoorLifesuch an easy thing to do. Thanks for the tutorial.

Thank you, I appreciate the kind comment.

No problem, leave the line to your solar charger connected to the battery. Connect BOTH of the other wires to one side of the switch Next connect the short new wire from the other side of switch to battery +. Then when your switch is turned off, it leaves your solar on and shuts everything else down. If you need more help, feel free to email me. Thanks for watching, I’m excited that the channel is growing too!

@@DIYOutdoorLife thank you for explaining to this commenter... go my new TD with solar in June... now I can check to see if wired properly... lots of us needed this advice

@@bikingal4283 glad it helped out 😀

Thanks for watching the channel. Lots of fun outdoors!

Haha, I’ve been down those rabbit holes with projects as well. It starts with, “what kind of paint to…” -then it’s 3 am and you’re reading about 19th century lead poisoning.. haha Thanks for watching and commenting! What trailer are you getting?

@@DIYOutdoorLife We had this conversation in another comment thread. :-) I'm getting an Aero Teardrops, Steel H/C trailer. Have a great day!

Haha….as the channel grows I lose track, I guess that’s a good thing! Awesome trailer, hope you love it, send pics!

Thank you, I appreciate it.

I really appreciate that, hope it helps!

Thank you!

Thank you, I appreciate you watching the video!

Thank you for watching!

Thanks!

Thank you for watching.

You're welcome! Thank you for watching and commenting!

Very practical!... 👍

Nice, some dual battery setups are really nice. Best of both worlds.

You’re welcome, glad it helped!

Thank you, I appreciate you coming on board!

@@DIYOutdoorLife you're welcome

Easy to fix, happy you watched!

That's right, also when you're driving and charging off tow vehicle. There are some fancy things you can do to do both at once, but I don't wanna scare anyone away!! ...lol Thank you for interacting with the channel and let me know how your project makes out!

Thanks for watching! You are exactly right, that draw is coming from the onboard charger charging the battery. If you install the Killswitch, you can shut that switch off when plugged into your power station and reduce the draw.

Congrats on the new BW! I have been hearing really positive things about QC improvements. Did you get the SS of FB? I have a DC fridge in mine that I'm testing and really like so far. Video will come out in August. Shoot me an email and I'll get you a promo code on it. DIYOutdoorcontent@gmail.com

Ignore those instructions...lol If you comb through the comments, I've explained why positive is best here, its the better way for this application. As for duel battery, you are placing this switch on the wire going to the camper, after the two batteries. By doing that, youll be switch both batteries off with one switch, same installation procedure. Thanks for watching DIYOL!

That’s incorrect and unfortunately a lot of people continue to say it. Both + & - switches work, you can even say that the difference between the two is marginal but there are more advantages to positive. Every single professional body that governs DC wiring mandates positive master switch. You see it in stock cars, military vehicles, aviation, NASA etc… The people that are switching negative, when the positive is available, are typically confusing the safety guidelines for installing a battery in a metal compartment like a car. You always remove the negative first, so that you don’t short circuit the chassis. They then assume that means you should switch the negative for safety but it’s a completely different scenario. this debate has going on in backyards for years but if you do a little homework, the debate doesn’t exist amongst professionals- master switch on positive, eliminate potential at the device, while maintaining a pathway to ground. This is the superior way to interrupt the circuit.

I sure love old jeeps.. what do you have?

@@DIYOutdoorLife thanks allot my jeep is M38a1 from Korea W

@@melvis2017 can you tell me what Jeep this is in this video? @6:45 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lbSegq2ezL3XoKs.html

@@DIYOutdoorLife Hi Brian thanks allot for the answer. Those beautiful cars you have in the back yard 1 the orange is a old dodge from 40s the blue is cj5 from 50s and of course the old blazer Cad.great on place on earth that reminds me my oncle place back to Tunisia (north Africa)when I was Kid I spend all my school vacations to his place. He was a car anthousist had so many beautiful old vans from early years. Brian you are so inspiring person positiv and energetic. Actually am spending the most of my time to rewire my old truck for to make it ready to the summer. The last am gonna ask you is tha kill switch and as far I understand from your video is to let that battery negative post away from the business and those 2 post on the kill switch only for the battery positiv (such fuses and engine). I will try to send you some photos when the project is done and of course hoping not catching fires 😀 🙏. I love us panorama in the 80 was to Lockheed Georgia as a navigator on c130 Hercules. (Was flying nearly the hole US. Was driving route 66 and I wish to make it happen again . In the end I wish a good luck and am sorry for my English because am French speaking 😇good Luck

@@melvis2017 excellent, thank you! As for your question, yes, run the negative to your chassis/ground and place positive on switch. Be well!

Hi Gwen, hook you solar charger directly to the battery. Then it will charge, no matter the switch position. If you plug the solar into the “solar on side“ port, then this master switch will turn that off as well. I would have to see a photo or description of what switch is inside your camper, each one different. Do you have a master switch inside as well? Thanks for watching, I hope you will subscribe😀

Thank you for watching, you're gonna be fine with one switch. Just placed the master switch on the wire going to your camper. In other words, your two batteries will be linked together with wires, one battery will have a red wire running to the camper, put your switch on that wire and it will disconnect both batteries.