Would you agree with my comment here that the dryer should be placed between the compressor and the storage tank to avoid that the air has time to cool down in the tank?

@@RubenKelevra No I wouldn't. The time the air is in the tank allows it to cool and shed a huge amount of water. This will remove the majority of the water. The tank is or should be equipped with a drain. The air dryer would not be able to sufficiently. There are air coolers, not dryers, that can be installed between the compressor and tank, but their primary duty is to cool the air to help the water separate in the tank more efficiently. Mike has installed this correctly.

@@patrickcolahan7499 interesting. I was under the impression that the CFM printed on the air dryer is what it's able to cope with as a continuous flow. I mean what's the point then to install a dryer in the first place? The air won't cool down any further until it reaches the exhaust port of the tool, so there won't be any additional condensation after it cooled to room temperature, right? 🤔

@@RubenKelevra Ruben, The dryer works by cooling the air down like a refrigerator which causes the water droplets in the air to condense and separate from the air. The CFM rating is based on an assumed air temp entering the dryer. The air straight from the compressor is the hottest which would very difficult for the dryer to cool sufficiently to remove the moisture.

@@patrickcolahan7499 hm okay, but isn't the moisture forming in the tank an issue, as the water droplets sucked away by the air stream from the walls will travel through the dryer with no resistance, as it's not water vapour? 🤔

In addition here, you mentioned that you had a secondary air receiver. If you plumb that into the system the right way, it also acts as a precipitator, removing even more moisture before it gets to the dryer. In saying that, my current workshop system has a rotary screw compressor feeding directly through the drier, then to the receiver (tank). From there it feeds a 1" main around both buildings with 1/2" droppers to the work stations. One building is panel/paint, the other is mechanical so the only oilers in the system are tool or machine mounted where required.

Nice upgrade, fun vid.! I operated a H.F. air drier (in an automotive research group) that fed filtered & dry air to a Constant Volume Combustion Chamber (C.V.C.C.), with 2" thick glass windows for hi-speed photography of combustion flame front studies & or fuel injection spray patterns. The instructions stated (I know, I know, but I was paid to read, comprehend, understand & follow instructions!😇) to turn on the drier about 10 min. Before introducing comp. air into the drier. The gauge needed to point to a certain color, indicating the refrigerant section reached operating cold temp. Reason: Uncooled air would carry water vapor right thru the warm drier. In a precise research environment water contaminates the combustion air, altering combustion properties & exhaust gas analysis, i.e. junk data! In the real world the effect is tiny, especially if air demand is zero for the 1st. 10 min after opening the air valve. Ideally an air system is equipped with 4 stages of moisture removal designed into it. #1) A CFM flow matched Air to Air aftercooler directly out of the comp. pump lowers 300 F deg. air to room temp., then into a triple metal pipe up & down arrangement, valves at bottom of each to drain water. #2)Next into a water trap/filter just BEFORE entering the tank. At this point the majority of water is removed before the tank & many tanks will have NO water to drain out, greatly extending tank life by decades! #3) Add a fine particle filter & Now the Drier AFTER the tank won't have to work as hard, helping it produce even drier air since it is not overwhelmed with such wet air. #4) At this point air may be dry enough for air tools & a sand blaster, & general shop needs, but plasma cutters, & paint systems may need the cleanest, driest air possible using a "toilet paper cartridge" coalescing filter &/or desiccant bead drier. This system design makes each section remove lots of moisture initially to help the next section be more efficient & not be overwhelmed. A shout-out to YTer "THE Compressor Guru, Bud Steiner for making Air System design wisdom & DIY compressor repair knowledge (& parts) available to the world! Paul from S. Central Tx.

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Have to keep it interesting or he gets bored with my yaknow

That's for an open system. In a closed system compressing air at constant volume increases density and obviously pressure. It just needs to cool the air below the dew point temperature which is a function of relative humidity (rh), temperature and pressure. The dew point of 75 deg air at a rh of near 100% and normal atmospheric pressure is slightly under 75 deg. That's how it rains (which is condensation) when it's 90 degrees. The dew point is much higher than 34 deg.

Dennis gets me🙃

@@JasonWorksAlot yes sir

Will looks like I picked a good location then

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Thanks buddy

Good deal

Agreed Lloyd, as soon as his friend said it I knew he was wrong, even cocky people can be wrong ;-)

DP, what he said

Good to see you too, Jimmy!

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Good news been working perfectly for the last three months 😁

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cartiage stink, got to keep buying filters, better off with a system you can drain

Shhhhh

since you do have the first drop that is where you need to install the desiccant filter. The drier the better

Loving it so far

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@@DirtPerfect I’m retired now but I put in 35 years in construction and because of that I can relate to your trials I enjoy your videos and your honesty

No need to wait he love it

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MOzark Mike… where are you from? I’m in S/W MO.

@@sassafrasvalley1939 I’m from the STL area, but I spend most of my time now at my property in Crawford County

@@MOzarkMike glad to meet ya! I’m in Jasper County.

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