I recall seeing a video of that on their website.

I do have a carb video on this channel it was the first video I think I posted 👍

@@westcoastsaw1368 would love a detailed video on carb adjustment. Just bought at a auction a 066 magnum. Some guys remove the carb screen when they port. Is this a wise choice?

You do it the same way you would any other engine with a high & low speed circuit. In its simplest terms, keep the saw from running clear at WOT. "WAAAAAAAAAAAA"= bad "WAWAWAWAWAWAWAWA"=GOOD If you hear the former, turn the high speed counterclockwise. If you think the high speed is too rich, turn it clockwise until it clears out & then back it off till it just 4 strokes.. IGNITION CUTS NEGATE THIS INSTRUCTION!! The low speed you just turn out until the idle is lumpy rich, then screw it in until idle becomes less labored. If the engine falls on its face when throttled up, the low speed is too lean & needs to be turned counterclockwise. As for new electronic saws, I've not got a clue.

@@elonmust7470 thank you so very much now when you say Rich what do you mean by that like the saw running to high idling

I have a carb video on here it was the first video I put up 👍

Thank you sir 🤝

You maintain it by not doing anything other than keeping screws tight.

Yep I am on it thanks my friend 👍

loved that video!

I had a backup backup 046mag that was still running with an inch long piece of piston ring in the muffler. Had very little power, but once & a while I ran a tank through it. That saw was held together with wire instead of mounts. I still have it.

If it's blubbering rich then yeah, then it up. If it's barely 4 stroking at all, don't. Ignition limiters throw a wrench into that precedure.

Making air flow easier.

Check on my first video 😂

@@westcoastsaw1368 oh thanks somehow i didn't see that video 😂

So your not a professional homeowner !

I have one on this channel first video 👍

Yes I agree just grabbed that saw off the shelf to do this video is all stock haven’t even modded it yet 👍

Yes we have one just for the 261👍

What the hell do you think? There's one option if the engine is lean......

@@elonmust7470 no shit, you could've saved the effort and not commented. Of course I know what's wrong Elon musty dusty dumb dumb

@@mitaraho Fooled me with your question......

@@elonmust7470 sorry about that bud...

@papaduck2443 Those who can, do. Those who can't teach..

What's troubling you with square chisel bit?

@@elonmust7470 the actual stroke angle of the file

@johnnyshell2839 do you push into the bit from the outside? What kind of file are you using? If you're filing on the saw, get a wedge & jam it in-between the bottom rail & the chain. This will get your chain glued to the guidebar which is very important. You want that chain to be solid as you can get it. I would start by focusing on lining up the corner of the file with the corner of the top & side plate. From there you can adjust all of the other angles. There're two for each plate, the degree of the cutting edge angle & the degree of the cutting edge taper. The corner is the main objective though. I've experimented with numerous different angles & most of them cut great.

@@elonmust7470 it's a square file. I push from the open side of the tooth. That way I can clear a bur with a flat file. No wedges. I've never needed them. Trees ain't that stubborn on the east coast. If it acts stupid I take the notch deeper. Stiff wood. Always a Humboldt from the ground and traditional when I was in the tree. That's how I found the different grind with round that really works for me. You can grind square all day. But I'll still use my round. For me it's better and way more controlled. I can make a 170 smoke a wood boss 290. It's just easier for me. It was an accidental grind when I was with asplundh tree.

These work great on one piece mufflers where you can’t get to the backside I just did it on a stihl muffler for demonstration purposes so you guys could see the inside how the rivet flares on the inside

@@westcoastsaw1368 as you tighten t the nuts down does to make the rivets flare

@@yata_4204Yes

Wouldn't you have to open up the muffler regardless just to make sure there are no leftover metal chips inside? I mean if they get in contact they can really mess up a piston

Sher give our office a call 👍

Awesome thank you sir

The differences is these are smaller openings than a bark box but in theory if you had enough of them they would flow as much universal ports are for if you want more flow after putting a muffler cover on to make it a triple port The Husqvarna‘s and other models that are designed with a one piece muffler there’s no way to bolt a front cover on to get more flow so we offer these so you can mod the mufflers that you’re not able to get the bark box on

I’m thinking of putting a bark box on a stihl 400. I’m also wanting to put on one of your clutch covers, do you know when that will be available for the stihl 400?

Meh