Shout out to Rosco's for letting you use their barrel. I will be buying their products from now on. It would have been sweet had they sent you a new barrel with it for comparison. Maybe next time.

Did you really? What did you learn, exactly?

That’s absolutely insane

Update: at today's prices its closer to $25,000 of ammo

Actually it's only about 12k worth of ammo and has been for well over a year

Ya, they got their money's worth out of it. I wouldn't be surprised if Rosco asks to use this video in their advertising.

@@billstevens5277why? It’s a worn out barrel, what does this prove to you? Olympic arms barrels would go 50,000 +

A tour of the shop or video about all his equipment and what they do would be fantastic

I'll do that.

Same here!

@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle hell yeah

Seriously.. all those wonderful toys

Certainly

A live Q&A would be incredible.

Drop the fieldstripped rifle in a tub of CLP, let stand for 72hrs, remove, scrub parts with nylon brush, run through parts cleaner with very mild solvent/degreaser(simple green), rinse with water, dry thoroughly with pressurized air, lube all parts and lightly coat all steel parts with CLP. We used to do that while on post deployment leave, everything but the optics, and lowers went into the bins, and when we got back you could see carbon settled on the bottom, and it was way more than you thought your rifle had. I currently have an Anderson RF-85 upper. They claim you don't need lubrication, and warn against using lubricant. I run my upper wet, and I keep it wet when at the range and at home I keep a light coat of oil. If I need more than a mag for self defense then I'm not doing it right, or it's the cops at my door, which is a slim to none chance for me. And in reality, you don't need to get every last bit of carbon, and honestly you shouldn't remove it all. It's not worth the time and effort taken to achieve, and in my opinion, it's not healthy for the firearm. Carbon isn't the enemy, your bore, chamber, barrel extension, bolt face, bearing surfaces, and BCG should be clean of build up and excessive carbon. But the first three should be the main focus for being the cleanest and the rest you can get the majority and not have any operational or excess wear issues. The biggest place I see people missing is in the FCG and buffer assembly and tube, as well as their gas tube and gas key. If you have coatings that will withstand it, break/parts cleaner works magic on carbon. I might get chastised for saying that, but I used more of that stuff in the military than I ever did as a mechanic.

@@Deathbomb9 CLP isn't the best lube. It kind of fights itself.

@@hellcatdave1 never said it was. It's what we could use in the military and I have used gallons of the stuff. It comes down to preference and how many different products you want to use and have on hand. For most people, they want a few. I have lost count of the number of products I have or have used. For the purposes of cleaning after the range, CLP is great. You can wet the firearm, put it in the case and head home. After a couple hours it has worked it's way in to breakdown most the carbon build up, or if you kept applying it at the range and started with a well lubricated firearm you can likely wipe most the carbon off and have minimal time scraping and all that. For a deep professional cleaning I use several products and in different stages. I've never had an issue with CLP besides its heat resistance and the fact that you have to apply it more often than most oils. But in the military that was t really an issue as we had gallons of the stuff at any point in time and usually did some training with our rifles at least once a month. I've had CLP restore function to an M9 that spent 2 weeks in a humid and damp Texas summer where it was starting to rust and was inoperable. After cleaning and a little scrubbing to clear up the rust it was as good as before. I won't say new because it wasn't, but it was partly due to the basic issue cloth holster that it was stored in.

I know right & thanks to kotaboy bcg video i ran into chad as i hear people call him he definately earn$ hi$ money talk about a WEALTH of Knowledge plus the Honesty

Depends on what they consider accuracy issues, there is a place in las vegas that doesn't swap the barrels until they notice tumbling at 15-20 yards with full auto mag dumps. if you are hunting you would probably swap it a lot sooner

26,000 rounds that's like 26 range visits for me.

@@muffemod You shoot roughly 780 rounds each range visit?

@@muffemod where are you finding ammo to shoot 1000 rounds per outing

muffemod I know right.....

This video will probably sell a lot of barrels for them

I wouldn't take the money because it would mean I can be accused of bias.

@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle we need more folks like you, man.

why do you think they sent him the barrel...

Yeah, me too, but then when you rethink it it makes perfect sense. The gas isn't forced through the port til after the bullet passes the port so it's like back pressure...

I believe this occurs as a result of a concept called dwell time.

I'd have thought the same because the combustion contaminants arrive at the gas port from the chamber side. But I guess it's because the round drags the plume of contaminants past the gas port and the gas port is a "catch" for the stream of contaminants, eroding the muzzle-side lip of the port.

It’s like driving over a pothole. The first edge of the pothole doesn’t take the impact of your tire but the second does. The gasses are contained until they pass the chamber end of the gas port and flow over it then crash into the muzzle side of the port.

@@me2bfc perfect analogy

I have been wondering this as well. Some of the claims seem pretty dubious...but I want to see a report from a 3rd party.

@@jonathonschram3429 Stole this from the AK subreddit because I don't think I can say it any better, but I researched this on AKs and found this to be very informative: "Everything pre-AK-74 used a 45o gas block and gas port. Early AK-74s also used a 45o gas block and port until they realized it was causing bullet shearing. The AK-74 switched to using a 90o gas port and gas block because of this. Everything afterward did, too, simply because it was easier to only have to drill one kind of hole and make one kind of gas block for everything. The gas port angle is what is important. Romania used 45o gas blocks on their AK-74s, but did not experience bullet shear due to the fact the gas port itself in the barrel was drilled at a 90o angle. Basically, it doesn't matter." Also, I believe a 45 degree gas port will lead to quicker gas port erosion...look at how the gas port eroded on this 90 degree gas port...now take that and start with a 45 degree gas block, it's just gonna accelerate the erosion.

I just bought one recently also

@@vanderwell07ify How do you gentlemen like them? I'm about trying to decide on their 11.5 or 12.5 for my next build. Any info would be great

Good to go!

Yep, that trench looks like a water erosion path for sure. Good analogy.

You should be allowed to own an AR15. Leftist bedwetting is ruining the world.

@@GTFBITK Freemen don't ask

Send them in for sure

@@Peaktac how do you go about doing that? There's literally no contact information on the website and he disallows messages on Instagram...

Unless your doing full auto mag dumps, it'll probably last longer than that on semi auto.

0.750" is the gas block size. That is the outside diameter of the barrel where the gas block attaches. It doesn't have anything to do with the size of the gas port or the rifle being over gassed.

@@littlejackalo5326 you are 100% correct. I got a bit confused but yes that’s correct. One thing I do NOT understand though is why most companies don’t list the actual gas port size? Why is it like some secret spec they don’t want the public knowing lol. I would have liked to know my gas port size.

that would be more like 260,000

Industry standard is Rockset is used on muzzle devices that are not pinned and welded and will (or might) have a suppressor mounted to it.... if its not going to be pinned or have a suppressor then a crush washer is generally used.... rockset is going to hold the flash hider/compensator on even under heat and recoil, that is important with a suppressor as if the muzzle dvce comes loose will firing it can cause the bullet to hit it causing damage or catastrophic failure. Rockset will also allow the muzzle device to be removed in the future if the User wishes to change it out A crush washer could fail with the added weight/stress of a suppressor on it. (13.7” -14.5” barrels will normally have a muzzle device pinned and welded on so it cant be removed and that legally makes the barrel over 16” so it is not considered a Short barrel rifle requiring a tax stamp...or pistol requiring a brace instead of a stock....if the barrel is over 16” or under 13.7” then there is no need to legally pin and weld)

Chad has said that if you are cleaning a barrel using bronze brushes it can leave a trace of copper, that would then appear as the barrel still being dirty. When I was still in the service, if I used a bronze brush it was with CLP dripped on it and then left to sit to give the CLP 'time' to work before pulling dry patches through.