I bought a new Anderson 300 Blackout upper. When placing a round in the chamber almost 1/3 of the round would not go into the chamber. When I called Anderson, they accused me of using the wrong ammo. I sent them pictures of the boxes of factory ammo from 3 manufactures clearly marked 300 Blackout. Sent them pictures that no brand would seat. They refused to make a new upper good. Brownell's agreed to make it right. They wanted it back so they could have a gunsmith check it. They said if Anderson was sending them uppers that could get someone hurt, they were going to have a talk.

YT algorithm actually did something positive for the 2A community. Subbed, binge watching. Thanks for the outstanding info here👍

"Mr. Anderson you disappoint me" Agent Smith

Coming from a machinist. Magnum sharpies are often referred to as "Poor Man's Dykem"

Your channel is the most educational gun channel I've come across. The level of detail you show is extremely helpful.

I wish I had a gunsmith like this man near me, he could confirm all my OCD thing I think that are wrong with my guns!!!🤣🤣 he is absolutely amazing with all those tools and gadgets and tons of knowledge, definitely got a subscribe from me. I have also come to appreciate that there is a difference in paying extra for quality as in a $100 barrel vs a $400 barrel does make a difference

I have never seen a barrel autopsy video before... this is one of the coolest things I've seen.

This channel will be one of the most important and largest channel of this type before long. The FB group is great!! Between the videos and the group there is a wealth of information for anyone on almost everything dealing with DI ARs

Everytime I watch one of your videos, I learn about a new tool or technique. So much that isn't mentioned in the typical "How to assemble an AR" instructions!

Watching these videos makes me question every part I’ve ever purchased lol. It’s crazy how often you find at least something wrong with a part.

For FSB pins, I blow torch to heat it up. I start with a large punch, as you showed, but with edges broken and polished. I secure EPC with bike tire inter tube and white board marker against it. That will flap in the wind and cause damage if it has an EPC and you don't secure it. Give it some taps till flush, then smaller punch to move out. Always use heat 100% of the time, makes it easier. Also, know the direction to go. Customers always bringing in S&W ARs all the time, they go right to left to get out. Sometimes they bring it in after they've already mushroomed the pins. Love your videos.

I know this video is supposed to be for education but, this is relaxing.

Bought an anderson Am15 when i was young and dumb and would occasionally get bent casings and squibs. Never again great video very informative.

Yes, very educational and informative. You give a great lesson in how ARs work.

Came across your videos today. Subscribed after the first one. You describe what your doing and why your doing it. Keep up the good work.

I really enjoyed this video. It showed and taught me things that no other video has gone to the the trouble of passing on. Thank You!

Very cool taking a deep dive into black rifle detail, thanks very much

Great teaching points. I know the system well but from only 1 manufacturer. This really opens my mind. Thank you. Nice collection of tools!

I have an Anderson AR 15 in 556-223, one in 300 blackout, one in 458 SOCOM , an AR15 300 blackout pistol variant and an AM 10 ,6.5 Creedmore! Never had an issue out of any of these! And extremely accurate! I also have an AR 15 Ruger 556-223 with a competition barrel and timney trigger. Not one bit more accurate than my Anderson! Just heavier.

This is a problem I've been seeing from several manufactures barrels. Finish reamers are now a sound investment in my shop! By the way, it's across the board as far as calibers go.. I think companies are trying too hard to meet demand and are cutting corners. It's good for business for me but not so much for the consumer..

I’m loving these videos. I feel like I know so much more about my rifles after watching them.

Excellent videos. I know I’ll have to wait until 2023 but I’m considering taking your AR Master Armorer and Build Class. I’ve built five ARs from a variety of sources, two of which are stunningly accurate and trouble free and three others, well, they need some help. Worth the investment to take your class. From eastern PA.

“Just as good!”

Very informative. Learned a lot about my AR barrel and what to keep an eye on and for sure what not to do. Thanks.

I have an Anderson Arms rifle I built several years ago and finally got around to shooting it and after 20-30 rounds, the new case would get stuck in the chamber. Had to really put some effort into the charging handle, leaving the bullet in the barrel (tapped out easily enough). I suspect the same type of problem with the chamber is the root cause. Going to do more checks but probably will replace the barrel (with something other than an Anderson)...

Great vid. Also noticed something kind of cool. The vibrations of the grinding wheel were slightly in tune with the shutter speed/framerate of the camera, showing very slowed down vibration waves move through the body of the equipment. Starts at 15:03

Love your channel, thanks for the great instruction and info!

Daaaaang does my buddy got an upper that needs a damned CAT scan. This thing is JACKED! Won't feed a damn thing never though to check the throat and the lugs on the barrel (yes I need to watch & learn more jargon) but nonetheless you have opened a whole new window for potential issues worth looking into. Considering the supplier told him "try a 3oz buffer weight" REALLY MAN! Ughhhhh. Atleast we have folks like you willing to spread the seemingly infinite AR knowledge

Oooo those 3 throat gauges are cool! 😎. Very educational - thanks.

the first post I removed I had my support block over a bit far and drove the pin into the block instead of the hole in said block designed to catch them. I left it there as a reminder to double check my positioning and my client got a new set of pins on the house.

This channel right here is why you never get cocky and think you know everything. I've built dozens of rifles but I still don't know THAT much. This was neat the one thing I won't do for myself is try to take taper pins out of a a2 front sight. Always heard you had to have a taper pin press.

Ordered a Anderson AOR 300 BLK Upper Receiver Less BCG and Charging Handle, 16" Barrel from Sportsmansguide cause I got a coupon for it. Upper would not chamber loaded rounds. Swapped out three brand new bolts and 2 different bolt heads that worked in other rifles just fine. Bolts would fail to go all the way forward and lock up. If you pushed a round to chamber they would stick and you had to smack the butt on the ground to get the rounds out. After they ejected, they would not go in the 300 AAC Blackout Case Length Headspace Gauge. They looked bent out of round sort of. Sent the upper back. Anderson sent a new one. New one works great. I carried an M-4 for like 24 years as a LEO so I know when it's not right. Out of five rounds I was able to chamber eventually, 3 fired, two fired and ejected normally one popped the primer.

Something I have used on other pins (though not those) is a set of pin punches. If you use the right size it tends to work very well.

Outstanding video. I just bought an AM-15. Waiting on delivery to my FFL. Hope QC has improved since this video.

So the moral of the story is you buy cheap, you get cheap....I buy cheap but if puts rounds on paper a hundred yds and not damaging the bolt what the heck. This guy is one to learn from.

This really surprised me, I own a Anderson Mld AM - 15 and have never had a problem with it !! Shot a lot of rds with it, never have anything go wrong !!

thx for sharing some interesting work... I knew about some of these issues from loking at precision rifle shooters, from the ammo side of the equation... nice, great to have such specialized tool, and the knowledge to use them ;-)

PSA freedom barrel would be intresting to see. Also there FN offerings

Your videos are incredibly informative. Can only imagine what your classes are like.

I broke a good sweat removing the taper pins on an SP-1 Colt. They'd been in place for a half-century and did not want to come out.

Not to be "That guy" but @15:00, you shouldn't side load a grinding wheel like that. I've never seen one explode, but I know a guy that lost part of his index finger, doing the same thing. He told me it sounded like a shot gun when the wheel broke apart. He didn't even know he lost his finger until he adjusted his glasses, and noticed his finger tip dangling. Bad things happen fast in a Machine shop.

Great video.. not supposed to use the side of the grinding wheel. Can lead to stone fracture. Fwiw

Wow! KZfaq serious gunsmith tips and tricks of trade! Thank you! Referring everyone who wants to learn correct safe mfg / tolerances! Tgank you very much!

Great video

I make 7 different AR and I always bought DD barrel, I never had a problem .

Great content. Will be signing up for your class very soon

Thank you for your content. Its no bull. I appreciate that.

Makes you think twice about that $100 barrel that is NOT on sale, but regular price.

Excellent workshop video's. Watching a craftsman at work, be they building musical instruments or restoring ancient ceramics, or building / rebuilding firearms,, is a balm for the soul and a boost to understanding the objects and the thought-processes. I've had a bit to do with "chromed" barrels over the years. Just trying to apply hard chrome in a "conventionally-rifled" barrel is a waste of time. Heckler and Koch, with their "modernized Metford-style" polygonal rifling knew what they were doing. SHARP internal and external corners are a huge problem. It's all about "current density". With "square" rifling, the "internal" corners of the grooves have a LOWER than average current density, hence a reduction in deposition of the chrome; On the "external" corners of the lands, the reverse happens, resulting in buildup / roughness. This is easily "knocked-off" by passing bullets. Once the chrome surface is sufficiently compromised, it will continue to deteriorate fairly rapidly with use. As an example, late-production Australian L1A1 barrels were both hammer-forged and fully hard-chromed. The flanks of the grooves / lands were ANGLED and the corners features a small radius. Furthermore, the MUZZLE crown was slightly radiused to avoid sharp edges. Not "bench-rest Kosher", but certainly good enough tor "government work". A well-engineered chrome-lined barrel will also suffer reduced throat and crown erosion. Whilst they may not be "National Match' grade, they will last a lot longer with a modicum of care. Sequential mag-dumps WILL vary your barrel "mileage" , and not in a good way. And chrome-lined barrels DO require cleaning because the chrome surface is not exactly perfectly seamless, but contains a LOT of micro-fractures inherent in the behaviour of electro-deposited chrome on a steel substrate. Chrome-lined barrels pick up a lot less "jacket-fouling", but the gases produced by the burning propellant gets into those micro-fractures and if not treated appropriately, and especially in humid conditions, will start to act on the steel. Once they "go bad", they are NOT self-healing.

A coworker of mine about 6 or 7 years ago got one of these (Brand new). He was trying to get a zero on it and couldn't seem to get any optic to work with the rifle. I brought a toolset over to have a look at it, results were pretty similar. Worn reamers, chattery rifling cut, throat was fine but the crown was trash. If the rifling had been nice I would have suggested touching it with the reamer and recrowning. End of the day though it was one of the poorest barrels I'd ever seen so suggested we rebarrel. I forget what we stuck on it, I think maybe a Ballistic Advantage or a Wilson. It went from 7" groups to cloverleafs. Not all ponies are created equal. I'm not gonna speak ill of any company. I'm sure the people there are wonderful. These guns aren't what they should be though.

Would like to see some LWRC physicals. Please and thank you.

Normal person: My gun is great. School of American Rifle: *Let me examine* Normal person: I could be wrong though...

DPMS used to Sell a Steel AR Carry Handle to Front A Frame Sight Gauge for the 20" Barreled Guns. It was Flat on 3 sides and V on the bottom like a Carry Handle Scope Mount.

I've bought a few Anderson lower kits and they've been missing pins and springs before. Not surprised by this level of quality from their barrels.

Anderson is a great company. If you were to have an issue. I know they'll be happy to make it right. I've had nothing but good luck with all there products. All the owner of this barrel only had to call Anderson!

Heat the ffront sight base to make the pins easy to drive out.

The pins being so tight reminded me of the time I broke a punch on a similarly tight pin on a star pistol trigger linkage

This is a big reason why I never use cheep or bargain parts mostly you get what you pay for

Ngl, I'm okay with using stripped anderson receivers, but I *will not* use anything more. As one who is ballin' on a budget, Bear Creek barrels have worked pretty well for me. My deer rifle is built with a BCA 16in .350 legend barrel, and it shoots almost 1moa. Not too shabby for the price point.

Presumably the chambers are cut with custom tooling (cutter, reamer, etc). I wonder if this is the last chamber cut before the tool got replaced???

This is one of those Anderson Ultra-match barrels, bro In all fairness my dad and I have used several of their lowers with no issues but haven't tried anything else made by them.

How come you don’t use an FSB puck for removal/installation of the taper pins?

marking your tool with the sharpie is a good method, but an old school method that also works well is taking a wood chip and lighting it on fire and covering the tool with the soot. works just as well

I used to have an anderson pencil profile barrel, with good handloads it shot half MOA, seems to be like all these cheaper suppliers, hit and miss, DIY QC.

Good video

Quality videos and the comments section is exactly what I hoped for. Bunch of guys defending their Anderson stuff lol. It’s cheap for a reason

I really would like to see how to correct a canted front sight post. Drilling and pinning my own FSB, that might be valuable info.

If I use picks I blunt them, especially if they are dental picks. We used to get them by the bag load from the dental clinics on post or even from dental offices if they have a stash of old ones they dont use anymore or ones they basically toss out. Theres only a few places i would use them and I'm never rough in areas that are essential to function. Every thing else is mild solvent that wont damage the rifle or only takes off the carbon and copper or lead fouling. In spots I know are high carbon collectors and dont interface with another part I'm pretty gentle still but I also like to actually temper down any scrapers. Mostly I prefer bronze tools even if they are still about half the RWC rating as the majority of the parts. Never a steel or SS wire brush. Old or cheap toothbrushes, Nylon, or at most phosphor bronze if you have some stubborn carbon. The phosphor bronze residue will just wipe off and generally wont cause any damage. I wouldnt recommend it on certain coatings that are electro plated or vapor deposited. I haven't tested it on those but most those coatings will just wipe clean after a good scrub with a nylon brush. I will say that if you use phosphor bronze brushes to clean, only do it where you have the visible wear marks. The brush wont damage case hardened, parkerized, or nitride treatments. It's just better to not use that sort of cleaning unless your really need it.

I didn’t see any free bore on the throat. Does Anderson manufacture their own barrels?

Thank u. I enjoy the videos. Interesting. Would u be able to make a cleaning lubrication video for the ar? U seem very knowledgeable. Where is ur school located?

Another great video! What kind of flash/comp is that?

How do you recommend cleaning the carbon off of bolts since you mentioned not being a fan of scraping tools?

@school of the American Rifle can you do a video on checking gas block alignment on a low profile gas block

great vid... excellent teaching...

Good stuff

Wonder if Anderson makes barrels for S&W. This chamber/throat looks just like the defects my brother had on a .308 S&W. Two trips to the gunsmith before it worked right. Chamber and throat had multiple problems.

If using the Midwest Upper Receiver Rod to install the barrel to the upper receiver, does the torque applied by tightening the barrel nut get transferred to the lugs the rod or to the top of the upper receiver through the "sail" where the charging handle resides?

Isn't it normal for the FSB to be clocked slightly to the left? Every iron sighted AR I have ever examined had the rear aperture to the left of the center mark.

do this for palmetto state armory and bear creek arsenal barrels please! your doing gods work lol

What brand action rod do you use?

When building do you recommend lapping the upper receiver

Bought two of their stripped lowers. Both were out of spec one way or the other.

So what would you clean your barrel with?

When driving pins out put some heavy chunk of steel underneath of the entire front post with the piece of the leather on top (do not block pins ) , than smack it with the hummer.

There is a lot of tool chatter marks from the rifleing button either dull button or loose , wrong feed , or lack of cutting fluid --- 1st choice dull cutting tool , 2nd not enough lube , but as tight as the chamber was to the gauge -have to go with an end barrel at production run .

what size are over-sized taper pins?

Fascinated about your "gauges" how many different sources are there for them? Is there any type of routine calibration and if so how is that accomplished? Is there some sort of gauge for the gauges? Like a holy grail of reference in a clean room, temperature controlled and like 3 people allowed in there? Or am I over thinking this (like many, not most mind you, but sure many, probably a few too many but that's why people come to me, for excellence above and beyond, as I digress)

It seems like Anderson barrels fall short a lot. Really make you wonder about what they consider is good quality when they sell to the general public, and how much of it is intentional.

Bought an Anderson heavy barrel stamped 5.56 but was .223. When it got hot rounds would not extract. Sent it back for inspection and they re-chambered it. Have a second one doing the same. It's a bad chamber.

What do you mean when you say that the barrel extension is "timed" properly? What do you measure in seconds? The angle, is that what you are referring to?

Just curious, I received two Anderson stripped lowers for my birthday. I used a CMMG parts kit for both lowers. Anything I should be watchful for being that it’s Anderson manufacturing or are their lowers decent? Everything fit well on the lowers and they appear to function well so far. Thank you. Excellent channel, very informative.

: Quite interesting gunsmithing video. It looks like you have all your profits tied up in tools. LOL. Keep on doing what you're doing. 🐢 👍 😀 🐢 👍 😀

Do chrome barrels usually have tighter chambers?

Could you imagine dropping that red case with the gas port gauges. That would be a very fun day

Internet says nitride is superior to chrome for the inside of a barrel because nitride is at least 4X more corrosion resistant and half coefficient of friction than chrome.

Where can I get these tools? Do you have a list?

10/10 * Subbed.

Good stuff. Makes me question a barrel install I did and notice how easily the new barrel slid jn without any resistance,and common sense tells me the manufacture overcoat the od by too much, I did torquedown the barrrelnut, I haven't Shot the ar9 yet!?.??

Anderson and PSA have pretty spotty QC. I will state that on a side note PSA is a very good 2a supporter and part of why their stuff is cheap is because they want to arm up as many good people as possible.