Yup, and I have since added R22 rockwool in the rim joist area and vapor barrier...this was before framing.

Entire playlist with all the details of finishing my basement is here: kzfaq.info/sun/PL3TUL4uTbjxNWrLgYvSkJhfbUZrYx64ou I put up the one of pre-drywall with full insulation details just recently.

No such thing as a dumb question. It was a DAP 200 board foot kit from home depot, comes in two mini propane style tanks. It actually worked surprisingly well, you just have to be prepared to move fast (30 seconds without spraying and the gun will clog up), but it covered great.

Not yet, check out my full length videos on this...after framing (and plumbing/electrical), I'm doing more insulation, and then I will get to vapour barrier.

Thanks for the fast reply. I'm under the impression that in cold climates you don't want that vapor barrier on those step walls. Thoughts? @@SomeGuysGarage

@@craighart7614 at least here (Ontario), on the step wall part with roxul it requires 6 mil poly. Where the foam board is, I have framed 2x4 walls in front which are now filled with r14 roxul and will get vapor barrier too. If I had used thicker foam board, it could have counted as vapor barrier but I didn't have the space for thicker foam board. There is always debate though on vapor barriers in basements, but I'm following what the local inspector and building code states here.

Thanks - I've got similar basement design and will be insulating. Appreciate your response and videos. @@SomeGuysGarage

@@craighart7614 glad I could help! If you have any more questions, please let me know.

R5 as a thermal break with the 1 inch XPS Foam. I've since framed out 2x4 walls in front of this, and will be adding R14 batt insulation in front (giving me R19 total) and then a 6 mil poly vapour barrier on the warm side. Technically a 1 inch XPS foam is vapor permeable and hence does not qualify as a vapor barrier (even when taped like I did), you need I believe at least 2 inches before it can count as the vapor barrier. I could have skipped the foam board, the inspector here would have accepted R12 as that was existing (blanket insulation), but I wanted to go slightly better (new construction code is R20 for basements where I am in Canada) and also keep a continuous thermal break once the wall was studded. I also didn't lose any space since the steps in the foundation (where the regular 2x6 framed with roxul is in the video) had a 1" interior overhang that I'd have had to frame the wall offset out from anyway. Hope that helps!

​@@SomeGuysGaragewhere's that video!?😂

@@mckylecfcI paused a bit on the build, but will pick back up soon and do another video!

@@SomeGuysGarage do you need a thermal break like foam if someone waterproofed the foundation with drylok for example?

@@Iwish4zombies you'll always want some amount of insulation, the foam makes it a continuous thermal break which is nice. With a coated foundation though, I'd have some conerns about any insulation layers and forming mold if you have two vapor barriers. Would probably be worth asking your local building inspector about it.

Don't know? It was part of the house lol

@@SomeGuysGarage😂😂 this question tho!

Foam board was around $1200 including glue/tape. Spray foam was around $500-600. I've since framed in front and added more roxul, I'm around $3000 into roxul. So figure for a basement this size (see my part 1 vid for more details), you're in the $4000-5000 range to fully insulate. All prices in CAD.

Drywall directly? No Usually you'd build a wall in front of the stone like I've done (see my part 3 basement video) and then drywall to that. If the stone/mortar is relatively smooth enough though, you could attach strapping directly to it and drywall to that, but that won't give you much/any R value.