Hows it go? Im considering one, unsure if it is worth it

Compressing air adds heat - so the air going into the intercooler has already been heated above ambient. There are some neat air to water intercooling systems where an AC evaporator is put into the tank with the water to keep the water cold. When you cool the air down you will lose pressure - but that doesn't mean you are losing air density. Most things are possible.

flatplanefool e85 or meth on tap or both with air to air

crown Victoria lifestyle run on straight meth and you can make the intake sweat... but for a daily having secondary fuels are a bad idea in my opinion too much stuff to fail an blow your engine up.

flatplanefool no no no pump e85 is the primary fuel which as he stated has its own intake air charge cooling properties The meth can be set to different settings to turn on and they also come with different nozzles so you don't have to spray a massive amount of meth on top of e85 just like anything the combination is key when I do my 4 valve swap jt- b trim that will be my recipe without having to worry about bags of ice, pumps and more hoses that add weight to the vehicle a simple one gallon meth Reservoir will be enough for many runs

flatplanefool I probably confused you with my original comment my comment was have meth on tap I wasn't saying run meth by itself I was stating run the meth with the E85 or no meth or both

Basically keep you a spare pump if you go out driving

Yeah but he had to dumb it down for the retards...

Jeremy Mejia I got one bye chiseled performance

Brian Winsett all of us were retards to this crap at one time😂

Jeremy Mejia 19:30 lol

@@brianwinsett1103 SHIT! He dumbed this down for the Retards retarded kids...

Most likely wouldn't show much on the dyno but would make the power more consistent when and if you ever run the car at that power level. Like if you took it to a half mile event, an ice set would be very important on your car

Not to mention the simple facts of water cooling being more reliable and more effective at higher temperatures. With being more expensive, having more risk involved, and having more effort to install and maintain.

If you plan to use ice, I would go for the air to water. With no ice, I'd stick with the air to air.

@@PalmBeachDyno Did you run through any high IATs on the one you pushed to 1400whp on hellion intercooler ?

Thanks. Yes, as long as it's a good air to air, I think it's the best option for under 1000 hp if you aren't considering ice

@@PalmBeachDyno Appreciate the response.

Thanks for tackling this complex issue. You neglect packaging, which is another reason so many factory cars run air to water. The low temp radiator is much smaller than an air to air heat exchanger and fits more heat dissipation capacity under the bumper. Factory body work limits the available space due to cosmetic and safety/bumper as well as AC condensor constraints. So retrofitting air to water makes better use of the frontal area available on the car than an air to air. More fin area per square inch of cooling airflow. That is why I went with A2W. Also it would be great to see some numbers on how to size the low temp radiator for various duty cycles, according to desired boost level and mass of combustion airflow (i.e. how to size the low temp radiator according to the heat load from the charge air). I see horsepower ratings on a2w cores all the time but none of them seem to care whether the car is running 3.5bar boost or 2bar. The amount of heat dissipation required for higher boost is much higher. No one ever talks about how big the radiator needs to be, or at least what the fin area should be, or how thick the radiator should be. Ideally you want a super thin radiator with a million fins per inch that has large planform dimensions. Best I could find was a Tesla model S front radiator. Finally you have to mention that for street cars you have two heat exchangers to work with, and each one requires a temp delta. So a2w will never get as close to ambient with high duty cycle on the motor as an air to air. This is why air to air is used on almost all road racing cars (plus rules making non factory a2w illegal to avoid water on the track). Sure for drag racing there is ice but not on the street. So you take a bit of a performance hit potentially for the better packaging, depending upon the temp of the cooling water and the duty cycle on the motor.

Too expensive!

They are ok. The intercooler core is on the small size on the one I saw. One thing to consider on an intercooled intake is MAF placement. That now places the MAF before the cooler and at very high power can melt the MAF. If you are running a standalone with a MAP sensor, this this isn't an issue

you dont

Idk qbout yours but my coolant runs at about 200°f. You don't want your intake temp that high

I think I have an answer to your question, albeit a bit of a anecdotal one... On my GT4, and using the stock WTA intercooling core; I upgraded the front radiator to accomodate a newer, aluminum one. Added two fans to the front of it (pushing) that turn on when the stock system kicks the pump on (aka when a throttle signal is detected), AND added Water/meth injection to boot. Car was able to boost FAR past its stock limits, granting around 330awhp, and 350 ft/bs torque. Accompanying mods were: Full cat back including downpipe (3in). Greddy Airfilter. 3rd gen 3sge intake (or exhaust) cam. Adjusted cam timing and a boost controller. Also heat wrapped the intercooler, since it sat right above the cylinder head. Stock HP numbers put it at 245hp, with around 220-230 at the wheels. Car was daily driven for 2 years, and the intercooler pipes just about ALWAYS stayed cold to the touch. Oops, didnt mean pips, as the stock intercooler has short rubber (in my case poly) adapters that lead from the turbo (about 4in long) to the intercooler, and the one from the intercooler to the manifold (about 3in long). If you need a pic for reference, just google Celica GT4 engine bay. Temps never rose above what my buddies car ATA system would rise to, and the car was also put through: togue/autocross/drifting/light rallying. Only time temps really rose higher than ATA intercoolers, was during our late night runs around the island, where the car was usually continually driven hard for 2-4 hours straight. So it was kinda expected to be a bit high. I am posting this, since there is still so much ignorance and mis-information about WTA intercoolers and whether or not they can adapted to a street driven vehicle, or what its main cons are against ATA intercoolers. From my experience, the largest two "cons" against ATA setups are, complexity of design and weight (the amount of water in the system, and water pump, plus the addition of another radiator). The biggest pros are obviously reduced intake temps (like, REALLY LOW), far better response, torque and horsepower. Another pro, is that you can confuse everyone that looks at your car, when they wonder why you have two radiators, but seriously, the pros outweigh the cons in a street application. I believe they dont on race or sports competition situations (contrary to popular belief

Not that we have seen

Only thing that would lower iat on a air to air is a water meth kit after the Maf

Are you asking if that effect anything?

@@PalmBeachDyno The piping for air to water could be shorter. But I don't know how much that pipe length would affect the airflow.

On paper length is a factor but the effect is so small its not a huge deal

Yes but it's not a direct swap between kits. I've seen Procharger Stage 2 cars get near or at 200 at that 1000 hp mark where the Vortech will hit 160 or so

@@PalmBeachDyno well damn!!!

Buy the test kit to keep yourself safe test befor you pump\

You made it that far? I didn't