Interesting. Let me know. For reference, I find that on my old popkin mandrel, the sides are properly closed (after mashing with pliers and wiring it) when the reed sits around 1/2" from the base (on the forming side). There is a decent amount of reaming to be done afterwards, and that may depend on the size of your bocal opening and how you prefer your reeds to sit on the bocal.

It was given to me by Ben Kamins. This is the closest thing I could find online... patiobloom.com/products/6pc-diamond-flat-file-set-ceramics-tile-glass-1

You don't wrap the doll all the way (you don't round it all the way). She's probably flat.

That is interesting! There are so many variables at play that without investigating every step and seeing your reeds in person I'm afraid I can't tell. The profile and balance of amount of cane and tapers front to back and side to side will make a difference. As will how far onto the mandrel you push the reed while wiring the blank together. And perhaps the amount of beveling and how long you clip the blanks (but probably 28mm if you do HB already). Kathleen is a great teacher and player! I don't have any illuminating thoughts about the fulcrum effect but if the second wire is the fulcrum, and the third wire is fixed, then the first and second wires definitely control the effect of the fulcrum on the reed opening.

They are called end nippers. I have a cheapo version from Sears, it cost about $8. There are some nice ones online for less than $25, just make sure that they meet flush at the tip so you can be very accurate as to where you are placing it on the reed before you clip. I like these better than a guillotine because it supports the top and bottom blade while cutting. No splitting issues.