Thank you. Yeah this one really made me work. There was no tear down guide for the 3G model so I had to do a lot of digging to see what went where.

Thanks. I've got a much better microscope camera now. Gonna have to make an update to this soon.

More to come!

Great!

Low melt solder is key 👌

It's not fun, heh. Getting the glass off without breaking it takes patience but the soldering is probably what requires the most skill.

Hi Jimmy. I wish that I could give you an exact number but using a Kada 925D+ I'm going to say that setting the air to about 6 should be sufficient. The soldering iron was set to 350 F but he moved very quickly across the connections.

I know the comment is 5 years old but someone else will be watching this and the uploader still hasn't answered for some reason but 1. There's two square windows on either side of the connector that line up with reference squares on either side of the pads. 2. You're supposed to tin the pads on the logic board before you put the charging port on top. The heat from the soldering iron will draw that solder up through tiny holes on the pads on the new connector.

Also how much magnification where you using, sorry I didn't watch the whole video yet, because i might not have to solder. The port was loose so I tightened it down, It's still not charging though, I noticed it's pretty dirty inside the port, so i'm gonna clean it, that could be the reason it's not charging. The one i'm working on doesn't seem to have been dropped or anything.

I don't think that it makes a huge difference but I believe that we used MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste with this one.

Gold squares (tiny gold dots in a square shape) at two opposite corners align the board... then tack a couple pins at each of the two corners. top left, bottom right... see some other videos. This video is good in that it's a macro overall depiction, but other videos are better with flux and soldering under the microscope.

That is the biggest pain when it comes to this repair. Short answer is get a lens pen. They are made for camera lenses but work well here too. Almost any liquid that you put on the screen will smear and oil which is what comes off of your skin is difficult to remove. Whatever you do stay away from glass cleaner, rubbing alcohol, etc. Most products will just make a mess and anything with fibers like a cotton cloth can scratch the surface.

@@GoCellPhoneRepair so, finally, what to do? How to clean it? Yesterday I cleaned, using a soft cloth, the fingerprints, but still there are stains and cannot be removed.

Bargain Hunter best leaving it to the professionals.

I use the Red Tape adhesive shown on this page gocellphonerepair.com/double-sided-adhesive-tape/ Be very careful. The cables inside are delicate and be sure not to touch the display. Fingerprints are very hard to remove.

Go Cell Phone Repair thank you !

poshko41 micro soldering 😱

😂👌🏻

hahahah i try first then i buy new ipad :D

It's best to put it on repair. And be sure to backup just in case.

:-D

I haven't done the Mini yet but the part does appear to be installed in a similar manner with lost of connections to solder.

Not that I am aware of.

+Janio Andres Bolano www.sstparts.com/search.php?tag=ipad%20air%20charge%20port

Your LCD needs to be replaced. Probably dropped the iPad at some point, glass survived but over time your LCD can go defective

Noah Johnston same problem here. Looking for solutions ;_;

This sounds like a Tristar issue. Not a fun repair for this particular model.

+jamesregan7 I agree with most of what you are saying. I typically use a drag solder technique with charging ports on phones. I'm not sure why he did each connector individually but yes it was a successful attempt.

***** You can probably expect to pay $100+ for this repair.

$80

Oh wow this is a very old video. Here's a better demo: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iJmImcxyztOzd4E.html

I'd need a lot more information in order to help you. History? Have you tried a different cable and charging block? Are you using the original equipment? What message are you getting exactly? Any other details would be helpful.

It does not. That's a common question we get from customers and as long as it's hardware repair like a damaged port, screen, or other physical component you won't lose anything unless the logic board itself (PCB) has been affected.

thank you for the information! :D

+cathy almeida Assuming that you have already tried multiple cables and charging blocks- it may sound obvious but to make sure all bases are covered before you go through all that work again- OEM 2.4 amp etc. I would be curious as to the history of the device. Was the port visibly damaged from the outside? Did it charge at all or have the same message before? There may be a different part of the system causing the error but its also possible that something is not connected right and of course you may have a bad replacement part.

Point taken an I agree with you 100%. Disconnecting the battery first and reconnecting last is part of best practice when it comes to working with anything that uses electricity. That said it's far more likely that you will encounter problems when reconnecting something while live than unplugging it. The iPad Minis and iPhone 6S series are notorious for blown back lights in this situation because it's so easy to bridge the power line to ground due to the connectors design. Furthermore the 6S has voltage going to the connector while the device is powered off. I'll update this video since it's pretty old and I have a good microscope camera now. Thanks for the comment!

Good Points, I never knew that about the 6S. I learnt lesson the hard way with the mini's. Had to bridge 3 filters before i Learnt my lesson

This is a fairly old video and these days a repair like this takes less time. To answer your question- in my experience, no. Soldering the flex onto the board is easier than trying to transfer just a port. They don' t like stress so you pretty much want to remove the board from your tablet regardless of how you plan to repair the charge port.

+Gigi Isbell well the good news is that if the board is already removed it should cost you less to have someone else repair it for you. To give you an idea I do these for 100 bucks in the tablet and 50 when they're already taken out.

Not on this model. It's soldered onto the logic board; not modular like an iPhone charge port.

Agreed. next time I will replace the other end. This repair was way too complicated. I'm sure that the majority of the connectors have to do with data transfer rather than charging.

PhrontDoor Has either of you tried doing it that way? I'm ordering and I'm pretty good at soldering but like you clearly shown it's not a fun task lol.

Joseph Capehart I hadn't yet. Will try this weekend (will keep you updated, of course). Good luck..

A bit of a loaded question there. Assuming that the port is the problem we are 100%... so far. That doesn't mean as much after doing only a handful of this sort as opposed to, let's say hundreds, but so far so good.