Great tip David, thank you!

@@IronRockOffRoad I imagine these are a little harsher in the nvh dept. As these wear, would I have to tighten them up or replace the black plastics?

@MrBrandorambo Your method could help but the pressing isn't difficult to do.

I don't see any reason on factory control arms, just don't have that much flex. There is a downside to removing and replacing bushings with the joints. You are likely to hear more road noise as the joints don't insulate the vehicle from road noise. Remember bushings don't rotate they flex so any time you change ride hight you should loosen and re-tighten all of the bushings.

they press in the same direction as the rubber bushings do 🙂

@drewamy2528 The bolts are so small the torque spec is hard for most people to measure.

@ethanchewning9325 These joints are very size specific. We do carry replacement threaded ends for most aftermarket lower control arms. Our joints will fit those.

Yes, this product can be used on the left and right side, in the same way.

I have this kit on my WJ, with flex joints on all ends. There is a definite increase in "feel" though I don't find it too objectionable. I live in Michigan where the roads are at best like driving on the Moon and while the road chatter and sharpness of impacts are increased slightly the tightness of the suspension is worth it to me.

@@charliedee9276 do you have the rock link 3 link? If so how's it handle? I want to run the flex joints all the way around but people are saying it'll have too much flex

@@guybro7644 No such thing as too much flex. The jounce bumpers and shocks or limiting straps control flex, the joints on the control arm are not for that. You really only need one on the end for a streeter, having a flex on each end will not net anymore articulation then just one. Having two does no good unless the non flex joint is hindering the motion of the other. Yes, I have the IRO Rock Link up front. Flex joints at the frame ends on the lowers and a Currie Johnny Joint on the axle end as just the single rubber joint on the axle does not last long flexing, my new lasted 3 months. I meant to say the upper control arm up front has a joint at each end.

@@charliedee9276 I messaged IRO and asked about running them on both ends and they said the rubber ends won't accept the flex joints and that it needs a rubber bushing on the one side to provide a neutral state

Because of the bent arms

we do not, but we do make a better product! Take a look at the rock link long arm kits. They are the real deal.

you shouldn't need locktite, just torque according to our instructions 🙂

Mine came with no instructions

@@robertzerba6047 sorry about that! If you email alex.j@ironrockoffroad.com we can get some emailed right out!

Yes these do fit the WJ D30!

Yes! It certainly will work on your 2WD!

Grease it up on assembly. That's it! 🤘

Hi! Yes, this will work to install the flex joint on both sides. Thank you!

​@@IronRockOffRoadThank you

Ok so you need two of these press in flex joints.​@IronRockOffRoad

@moejr14 Absolutely! This flex joint will work in both upper control arm positions on top of the axle. AND you can upgrade to a larger bolt size than the original for more piece of mind. The original bolt size is 10mm but we offer it in 12mm and 1/2 inch bolt sizes too. 10mm bolt www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/upper-control-arm-flex-joint-8-bolt-10mm-cartridge.html 12mm bolt www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/upper-control-arm-flex-joint-8-bolt-12mm-cartridge.html 1/2 inch bolt www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/upper-control-arm-flex-joint-8-bolt-12-cartridge.html

@@IronRockOffRoad do you have to drill out the upper control arm bolt hole?

@@moejr14 Yep, just like we did in the video. Drill out your upper control arm bracket to match the bolt size you choose, and you are good to go!

Probably would need to drill through the axle mount and into the flex joint race, then tap the drilled hole for the zerk fitting. You would want to pull the actual flex head "ball" and washers out before hand though.

@@VaporheadATC I did exactly that and it works very nicely.

@VaporheadATC Very interesting! Glad to hear it worked for you!

@pennypackmtb2542 Glad to hear it worked for you!

You grease them on initial assembly. you would have to drill and tap whatever they are pressed into, in order to make them constantly greasable.

haha lol

Lmfao...no shit. Next to that elusive 10 mm socket.

It's a normal size claw hammer, Joe is a giant. :-)

It’s cute my granny has one in her sewing kit

lol, that was intentional to show how easy it is to do, even your 7 year old can do it!!

@crashtestperformance3596 We agree! It won't happen again!

The tool's primary purpose is an installation tool. It works perfectly for that purpose. we will agree with you that removal of older bushings can be a pain, and using this tool is not the easiest way to manage that, nor is that its designed purpose.

@@IronRockOffRoad The trick, as I presume you know by now, is to use a punch to peen the old bushing sleeve over into the rubber as far as you can. This gives a lot of steel for the thick washer to pick up on and drive the old bushing out with relative ease.

Air hammer is what you want. Everything else with a 15+ year old bushing is just too tedious. It's not even pleasant or easy with an air hammer.