“Probably spent too much money” understatement of the year. This is a perfect example of why you should always read the comments on the video

I was so excited to see you had a video up. Weird but it's like you two are my kids that I'm always happy to hear from and get updates from. You have such great vibes I can't help but smile when I see a notification.

I've been going back and forth on aluminum vs. wood for my own build and I SO appreciate this! It was beyond helpful.

Oh my. Wish I had known you were doing this, before you ordered anything. Hubby is a retired manufacturing engineer for the automotive industry. He's built hundreds of assembly lines with 80/20. Soo...we used series 10 (mostly) and some series 20. To bolt we drilled and tapped then put in 1/4 20 hex head bolts. We also used gussets in crucial areas. Our van is our daily driver, so everything had to be removable, if needed. (The van seats are stored in our garage!). We just went to Alaska this summer. Zero squeaks from our build. Incredibly strong. Hubby says 15 series is overkill. I would add a photo but not sure how.

You should have used the 10 series. Less expensive more space and still crazy strong. If you have a Grainger close you can order from them and pick up without shipping, which is a huge part of the price. I would recommend doing one part at a time. Jumping in with both feet could be a expensive learning curve.

Thanks for letting us learn through your experience! Y'all broke it down really nicely and I appreciate the transparency on how much you spent. I can def see the advantages in some areas, while using lumber in others.

This dude exudes Andy from parks and rec vibes. It's awesome.

Dude your intros are everything keep it up you 2!!!

This video is amazing!! So gooooooooood. Answered so many questions for when I start my build. Keep up the great work guys :)

This has been really helpful in my decision, thank you!

We used 1.5" 80/20 in all our van roof rack and inside framing. To surface the cabinets, we put white Formica on 1/4" plywood and put it in the groove or channel of the 80/20. That meant we had to put the brackets on the inside of the cabinets where they didn't interfer with 80/20 channel (if that makes sense). The white Formica cabinet faces have no screws in them at all. They just sit in the channel. I enjoy your videos and your explainations. Keep up the good work.

Once again, amazing intro! Hope to see more of that creativity in the future.

Smart, adorable, fun, good content…You two are perfect.

Thank you both so much. I have less fear about my build. I bought a 2014 used 170 Sprinter…talk about black mold! So, we completely gutted the van and we are starting over with 80/20.

A good presentation and valid details! I recently saw a video from an RV company that was removing all the wood they could from their designs. The reasoning was that, (in his opinion), every time they investigated a moldy smell, it was related to the wood and the humidity in RVs. They didn't go into a lot detail on what product they were going to use, they referred to it as a marine grade product. That could mean plastic or fiberglass.

Thanks for filming this. I’ve been planning to build out the bed in a similar format but wasn’t too sure about the materials. I knew I wanted metal though

This was super helpful!!

Yay more content!

Great video in terms of talking about pros and cons, and really highlights that the initial design is extremely important as well as not going "whole hog" when working with a new building material so as to adapt the design as you learn more about what works and what doesn't. Invaluable lessons learned that come out of this are to order stuff for just a portion of the project and see how it goes so future portions can benefit from perhaps ordering different series or components of 8020 that are better suited (e.g., different linkages/connectors, different series/sizes of 8020).

Great video! I appreciate your thoroughness in explaining the process and pros and cons. For me personally, I am going with purebond formaldehyde free wood. But it seems that extrusion could come in handy for certain aspects of a build, just not a must have.

You still managed to make me smile! I built my greenhouse out of that aluminium, very fiddle with the nuts and bolts❤️✨

Great video. I liked hearing the pros and cons to it. Magnets are an interesting idea.

I am currently building my 170 Sprinter...I went through choosing materials 80/20 vs wood...I chose wood. Mostly because I know wood and the COST of 80/20. 80/20 I think gives that modern look. But hey...I'm 60 yrs old so... I used E-Track system to mount my bed...very solid and very easily removable. It cost about $200 including brackets and I bought some nice utility bags that for now are working out great for storage. I don't live in my van but I do use it for hauling a lot if different stuff. Right now we're heading out for the weekend to do some carpentry and have lumber and tools packed under the bed...plus a dog...I have kept mine simple for the utility of multi uses. I really admire your choices and honesty and your channel. So many KZfaq van channels...so few good ones...lol...yours is GOOD!

Great video explaining your process. And combining your video with some of the comments given, a great informative tool for someone exploring the 80 20 option. Well done.

I've seen nice paneling setups with inset 3/4" marine grade ply and some 2-holed flat brackets on the inside. One hole with a screw into the wood and one into a T nut. The finished wood looks good when it's finished and is framed by the aluminum with a bit of a shadow gap. They used 3 sided extrusion with one smooth side facing out, or 2 sided extrusion on corners with 2 nice smooth sides. You gotta be willing to see the extrusion though. if not, you're adding more thickness to your build to hide the aluminum with your paneling.

Good job.Thx for the lesson.

Very helpful input thanks for biting the bullet for us 🎉

thanks for the info! I think when it's time to build my van I will only use extrusion for the bed lol and use the van floor to hold my batteries and water tanks. great video!

I’m just about to start my own little extrusion project myself. Here in the UK we have a company that supply their own version of 8020, and for a very small extra charge, supply it pre-cut to the millimetre. This adds a few percent to the overall cost, but as long as you have it properly planned, piss poor performance - prevented. I agree the facing problem, is a, well, problem, which limits its application; and this stuff can’t just be thrown at a build out. But for my money (and skill level) this stuff is preferable over wood wherever possible. Liking the vids, keep em coming!

So glad to see you two this morning! I'm going to share a thought I keep having about you two and it's def a bit off topic and quite uncalled for BUT.... if you two reproduce, your kids are bound to be absolutely adorable and most likely quite brilliant. Just my thought as I creep into my grandma age. Thanks for all the info you give us. I was on the fence about using wood or aluminum and now I think I will pick and choose areas to use each type. Stay well. See you on the next one.

Great video, thanks for sharing

Thank you very much. You have saved me a big bunch of cash.😊

I subscribed solely because you shredded that rail like a boss 😎.

Your presentation was awesome!

Viewing that video was an emotional rollercoaster for me! I thought you were going to make a total mess out of it, but eventually you pulled it off. Well, until the magnets fail.

great vid to learn from, great guys. KUDOS

Love your vids.

Thank you guys I do believe it’s worth the extra cost.

I agree with your conclusion of using a mix of 8020 and wood based on application. I’m in the middle of my buildout and the cabinet facing has been the most challenging especially since I don’t want to SEE the 8020 frame. Good job on the overview.

I feel your pain. I used 8020 for everything in my van including a raised floor in the garage section. I laughed all the way through your video. :)

I used screws and t-nuts to attach panels to the 80/20. Thats the cool thing about the 80/20, you can attach everything to that slot. If i didnt want the screws showing in the front of the panel i used screw nuts on the back of the panel and brackets.

I think you’re ‘finding your groove’ with the vanbuild series. But I’m most looking forward to you guys HITTING THE ROAD series when the build is all done!

Cool video. Thanks

Great job.

and this my friends is how you make a van build AS EXPENSIVE AS YOU POSSIBLY CAN and guaranty THAT YOU WILL NEVER RECOVER HALF OF WHAT YOUR BUILD COSTS....

Great content.

great content！

Nice vid guys.

Hi! Great video I was happy to watch, since I was considering using aluminium extrusion too.... Did you also compare the weight of both solutions? Greetings from France, Pierre

Have you looked in to drilling and tapping screws in the 8020. Would allow you to remove any panels attached to them with very little fuss and will be as good as a permit attachment.

This helped me make up my mind. Some aluminum like the bed is good but I am going with wood in most of the cabinetry.

So glad I can weld aluminum.

With some of the pre made bed designs being $2000+, although you had a significant amount of time invested, I think the aluminum is a great investment 👍

I buy tons of very very very high-end, like-new, used kitchen and bathroom cabinets that have been donated to nonprofits and re-purposed them in my van conversion builds and out of dozens of cabinets that I have bought only one was ever put together with those awful finish torx screws and it was a disaster and pain in the but* trying to take apart and remove the parts of the cabinet I did not want. I’m not surprised you chose that option but for a professional cabinet builder to choose that option was mind-boggling to me.

Love the blue cattle dog mate. Great dogs if you love the outdoors

Neodymium magnets are the kind of magnets you're looking for, they are extremely strong, great vid;

this is almost exactly what i was imagining. i avoided extruded aluminum for a while now. mostly because of cost. then i started using it for small things realized i was going to be way over my head.

Last comment for the KZfaqs algorithm.

Very helpful. We're going to redo our van and probably will just use extruded aluminum for the bedframe. Do you guys happen to have your sketchup plans anywhere?

Thank you for sharing a real-world build with 80/20, everyone praises it but I think your video brings to light its shortcomings. Taking 3" from your center aisle just for 80/20 is a big drawback. Waiting on supplies and making wrong cuts is bound to happen, with wood one can run to the HD or Lowes and get another. I wonder how many people are taking apart their vans after building with aluminum? Using 90-degree brackets with wood, screws, and marine adhesive. One could build that module 6x before touching the cost of the aluminum.

Tnutz has all the fasteners and brackets at much cheaper prices. Also you can drill holes in the 80/20 and tap the hole. Then you can bolt your panels on and they are removable. Seven O Savage uses this method. I’ve seen too many videos of van cabinets coming apart on bumpy roads to not use 80/20.

Thank you for saving us thousands of dollars. We will use it more strategically.

Wow, the cost! Got me subbed. Also be careful you are not creating a heat bridge from the outside to the inside, or vice versa.

GUYS ! i know its late but , old BIg hard drive magnets are insanely strong and dirt cheap , you can find them by the hundreds in electronic recycling centers . its time consuming to disassemble but once you get the hang of it its pretty streamline !

Have you thought of using a fastner in reverse? ( Have the bolt head in the extrusion and a cap head nut or security nut on the outside) the other option is to have a moveable “bolt sleeve” in the track and have a screw go into that.

I’m torn. I adore you both for the deep dive into the specs/costs/comparison to other build materials and the high tech approach. My “issue” is that my personal ethos is to recycle/repurpose/upcycle virtually all my materials. Extrusion is innovative and practical in many ways, but obviously expensive in multiple ways. I used some aluminum from abandoned furniture for my build. Anyway, your passion and cuteness are always appreciated and good to watch. Keep on keeping on guys.🌿🌀💗🐾

Excited to see you using extrusion. Have you seen Thomas Heaton's van build from about a year or so ago? He shows how he made panels work and hinged cabinets, etc.

Really awesome work! Quick question cos I might have missed what was the glue used to adhere the wood to the frames? looks some kind of foamy thingy..

I don't know if you are aware but aluminium is not a ferrous metal so magnets will not attach to it. You would need to mount a steel plate on the aluminium strip where the magnet would attach. This is perfectly feasible and a great idea for easy to detach panels. I have used aluminium extrusion quite a lot to make 3D printers and it is great but I would never be able to afford building my van from it. I would love to though. Well done both of you. It looks great.

That skateboarding content was nice bro you got some killer moves!

hy - greets from austria - i love your project and your live style 🤙 2 questions, between the wool and the inner surface you installet a vapor shield? and how you transport the moisture, especially over night out of the van? thanks and nice greetings Georg

Very nice

If you use aluminum framing you should try and incorporate it into the overall look of the design. The look should be aluminum and plywood, not aluminum with plywood hiding the aluminum. Leave all internal spaces open to allow for ventilation and access. All plywood should be fastened to the aluminum so it can be removed easily, this makes repairs to services and electrical gear easier. I think aluminum framing is a better product than wood to use in a van build. It costs more and you have to think harder about what you are doing. Unfortunately there is a big learning curve using this product, personally I think the end result is better. You guys have done a great job and if you did another van tomorrow you would do some things different.

Thanks for the honest and very informative review. Can I ask the weight difference between the aluminum and the same size in timber?

Great topic and coverage! I just convinced myself to build my bed with extrusions. Do you think that van-width span requires 15 Series, or would 10 Series do the job?

I am a fan of extruded Al. I build a big kinetic art stage usinh that.

Your comparison of extruded Al to the same size piece of Fir from the depot is apples to oranges. You could have used the smaller series 10 extruded aluminum vs wood and it still would be significantly stronger structure than wood. Is 80/20 more expensive absolutely, but there is no comparison to wood lumber. Your structure is massively overbuilt for what you were constructing, remember weight is the enemy of van builds. My father did two van builds back in the 80' and the bed frame was built from 1"x3"(0.75"x2.5") poplar boards to frame the bed platform and then 1/2" plywood on top and it held 2 full size adults and 2 kids and it was rock solid. Series 10 would have been more than strong enough for 95% of your framing, I might go with 1020 to act similar to an I beam for the stringers for the bed but I would run them from the cleat on the pax side to the cleat on the drivers side not front to back. I am excited to see the complete build.

YOOOOO MORE SKATE INTERLUDES PLEASE

I used 2020 series (20mm) and it is plenty strong. It's the cheapest, lightest and most available. The square bracket is less than a dollar.

after watching I will say that for the bed frame and the garage i like the 8020 but 2x2 wood for the rest.

You could have used 10 series in a lot of areas instead of the 15.

👀 it’s not Sunday, is it Sunday? Rock for president 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿👀

Just a quick non sober thought after seeing your snapped off screw.. Can you either glue (or cut the head off a partially installed screw) sticking out from the extrusion to make a sharp pin, and then place the wooden Plate against this "pin" and hammer it in? like a revers staple idea.. Love the design and your veracity when it came to your aluminium experiences.

Kick ass Seabass you gotta start putting some more skate moves on your videos really looking forward to more videos bem keep it up

You guys could consider installing a HRV, which automatically circulates the air inside but also doesn't lose the heat, Lunos E2.

What about metal studs? Do they come in 2x3 size? Pleasure Way has a few videos and clips in their van tours that show the building process. They use plywood attached with angle brackets. Their wet bath and refrigerator cabinets are all plywood. The plywood I believe is cabinet plywood that could be prefinished on 1 side. My final thoughts are light weight plywood that is stable is good. Apple ply, birch or bamboo. Should always finish it and don't leave un treated or un finished wood.

Liked the video, maybe use size 10 as it is very strong

It is a little late but the channel Humble Road may be a good channel for you to check out if you build something else with 80 20. He builds vans and uses 80 20 throughout the entire van. Could be a good source of information for you for anything in the future. Have fun with your van!

Try facing the extrusions with velcro. It is used in high end limited production cars.

I work with this product in trade shows, in a van build shouldn't you use some type of insulation on brackets for van wall to prevent thermal bridging?

Hey are those water filter canisters in the low cabinet at 19:00 ? Just a tip if you ever want to replace the filter cartridge you are going to spill all the water when you unscrew them. They should be mounted upright so you can unscrew them and not spill the water. Great build and love following along!

I love watching Marie from Breaking Bad teach us stuff about vans :)

Should have used Robotunits Extrusion. They will cut it and send a drawing detailing where everything goes. Also a reduction time for assembly

Great video BUT... the 8020 brand is easily the most expensive supplier out there. Plenty of alternatives at half the $$ or less. 👍

The advantage to the extrusion is a built in track, you guys missed so many things you could have purposed it for and saved even more space and maybe even some money, but hey 🤷‍♂️we all see and do things different, it was still a cool video thanks for sharing 👍. And now I know it's strong enough for some tricks too, so auntie Judy can stop yelling at her son "you're gonna break that and cry when you gotta pay for it!" 🤣 ✌️🤙

Thks PS: ??Hows-abouts compared to good-old-fashioned square aluminum tube & associated fittings and blazing them together??

Not tried this but suggestion for the attaching the panels - use an L bracket bolted into the extrusion and then put a rivnut into the other hole - drill a hole in the wood and you should then be able to bolt into the rivnut?

Nice video BUT- You guys are killing me!! I'm going to give you. guys the benefit of my 40+ years of experience here. By the way, I am a retired "Tool & Die man", Master Machinist. And also, a Class-A Journeyman Electrician, "IBEW local 26, Wash. D.C.", and licensed in several jurisdictions. So, I am talking from experience here. Because you paid WAY too much for oversized material you didn't need, which took up way too much space in a limited space environment! Man-o-man but you made a very easy thing look soo hard! But you did a GREAT job as beginners! 1. Series (2020) alum t-slot extrusion is all you needed. Remember, you are building what is a "system" once completed. Each piece added and connected securely, adds to the overall strength of the finished build. I recently purchased 10 X 39" pieces of 2020 anodized aluminum t-slot extrusion from Amazon for ($63) including shipping with "Prime". 10 X 2000mm or (78.7") pieces would have cost ($163) in total. "Including free shipping with Prime". Making it only 65 feet of material per box at ($163) = ($2.50 per foot of extrusion). You needed a total of (312 feet) you stated. 312 X 2.5 = $780.oo in total for the extrusion. I purchased hardware as follows "All orders included all needed hardware and all "Allen" wrenches needed". But this will not allow hyperlinks. Soo, these are descriptions of what I used. And should work if used to search Amazon. 10 pcs. 2020, anodized alum ext. (2000mm or 78.7" length each) My cost was $163 including FREE shipping because I have PRIME. The shipping cost would kill you otherwise, I think.... The four items below I purchase by the box of (10-20 pieces for $10 - $19.99 per box) L- connecting brackets with hardware for aluminum 2020 series extrusion. Corner bracing with hardware for 2020 series aluminum extrusion. Three-way corner connectors with cover and hardware for 2020 alum extrusion Hand holds for T-slot or V-slot aluminum extrusion with hardware for 2020 alum extrusion. (2000mm or 78.7" or 6.55 foot in length) X 10 pieces of (black, clear or blue) anodized, 2020 series, aluminum square 4-slot extrusion w/ No hardware. 10 pieces of aluminum 2020 extrusion. Clear anodized 78.7" long each piece. Use rubber washers (1/8" - 1/4" thick), (1" dia.), "everywhere" you attach to the Van. "Damping makes a huge difference in both squeaks & squeals but also any to any electronics in or on those frames! Self-tapping screws are the easiest way to securely mount to the van. But use them at "several" connection points! You don't want to allow that frame to become a "missile" in any accidents! If the frame is really large? Anchor it to the Vans frame by using 1/2" case hardened steel bolts or "U-bolts", "Thru the floor" and again, into or around the Van's frame. This is NOT as big a deal as you may think. Ask your mechanic how. He should know.... Because, This can become a HUGE deal in any bad accident! Ground the frame or separated frames at least once "each" with a self-tapping screw wrapped around piece of (#12Awg copper wire), "Minimum", into the aluminum t-slot, and attach that wire to the "frame", NOT to sheet metal! Do this with another self-tapping screw, keeping that piece of wire as short as possible "Less than three feet long". Running that self-tapping screw into the Van's steel frame. PLEASE do not skip this step! Sometimes it is easiest to just follow a drain hole in the floor to route the wire to underneath the Van with easy access to the side or bottom of the frame. Wood frames in a van will always make noise and get moldy. Aluminum will not and it also looks great! Use the slots to mount any panels needed. Just cut them to size. You have (1/4") in those slots. If they "Panels", are cut sloppy you can add weather stripping inside the t-slots - (1/4 x 1/4"). You will notice how they need to be put together in order to use all four sides of the inside t-slots for panels. You can get 2 X 4' pieces of "wet-marker board" at Home Depo for about ($15) a piece

Not trying to annoy anyone, but I would use the T-Nuts with the springs on and counter sink some shallow Allen bolts to fix the panels that required removability, or use those locks you get on slot machines/electric cabinets and have a slot along the bottom to drop your ply into and a lock either top centre or either side, i know I know I’ll get my coat 🙃 good metal working dad!!!!!

I thought you were cool before but then you started 50-50 board sliding 80-20!!!