How do you like it?

When it did that I was like NO WAY! and I found out after buying one.

Hey John! Thanks for the kind words! I made this gauntlet because Kaiweets swore to me that their meter was great, and so o called them out on it, they said "try us!" You can catch the video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o9WKZKSfp92RfKc.html

@@SimpleElectronics i got one of their meters it has a bluetooth icon lights up on screen im guessing it was gonna be a function but they didn’t add it is it possible to ask them about that ?

Hi John. How would you say the ht118a and ht118c differ in function? I’m torn between the two.

@@NegativeRail: Hello Jakob. They are basically the same multimeter. They both have the exact same specifications. The major difference is that the HT-118A is an auto ranging multimeter. And the HT118C is a manual range multimeter. Plus it can test 1,5V and 9V batteries. It all depends on if you prefer auto ranging or manual ranging meteres. Like i said in my first comment. I absolutely love my HT118A and HT118C. Meters. I'll use any one of them at any given time. It really only depends on which meter i just feel like using. I hope this helped you in some way. Cheers

I made it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o9WKZKSfp92RfKc.html

@@SimpleElectronics Yea, I searched your channel afterwards and found it, should have posted the link myself. Thanks though, awesome test tool.

How does the HT118A compare with the HT118E?

There is definitely an audible continuity test - it's not quite as fast as I would like it but it's pretty good!

I'm not sure it's a replacement for a Fluke but it is certainly a great meter! It has quickly become my go-to meter even though I have a Snap-On meter here

So how is it so far? As compared to Fluke?

Probably with battery voltage - so like 3v

This has self calibration feature.

Não foi um dos fusíveis que se rompeu?

Did you check replacing fuse?

I am sure that you've already made your decision two months after posting the comment, but for any other folks curious about your question who might actually read this, Fluke meters are not expensive just because of quality, they are expensive because they have exceptional quality control and big name electronics/electrical companies and organizations such as NASA or the US military will tend to stick with Fluke brand meters just because they have been around, and been consistently reliable for so many decades that they are able and willing to pay the price for the trust in their accuracy and quality control that comes with the name, AND since they've been around for decades, companies have trained their personnel to use them and wouldn't want to have to rewrite their training material. This does NOT mean that their products are actually BETTER than others, it simply means that they have earned the trust of organizations who need their test equipment to just work, and work consistently the same out of the box each time. So the name Fluke comes with trust. That being said, unless you are a company that needs to be able to trust the precision of your test equipment down to 0.001% accuracy, and have a dozen or more technicians you're supplying with them or something, then no I don't believe it's AT ALL worth the ridiculously jacked up price tag. I'd rather buy a meter, calibrate it and take the small chance of finding out it's slightly inaccurate, then have to go through the trouble of getting it replaced, than to pay 6x as much as I need to for an equally well functioning meter. Being established as the standard in anything makes a product skyrocket in price, but trust in a brand does not equal functionality necessarily. Check out EEVBlog's video called "Why are Fluke meters so expensive" or something like that

I made it! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o9WKZKSfp92RfKc.html

Any of them will do the job!

Sure! But measuring solar panels is a bit of a complex thing - I did make a video testing solar panels that you can apply to this multimeter though: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bqlniddirdrUoqs.html

Hehe the evil rears its ugly face

it is pretty fast but I have seen faster for sure.

@@SimpleElectronics I bought one and literally within 30 mins it was boxed up and on its way back, the continuity beep was so quiet as to be inaudible and for me that made it a no go meter for me.

I wish I had an insulation tester - but high voltage is where I draw the line, personally. For work above 220v I would definitely invest in a Fluke or other reputable brand - the thing is, most people looking at multimeter reviews are simply working below 12v DC

@@SimpleElectronics there are some electricians who do not recommend a multimeter to work with high voltages. They recommend other types of devices that are very expensive from the Fluke brand and cost more than $2,000.

Yes it does and I think it's 15 minutes, but you can bypass the auto-off feature by holding down the function button while you turn it on. When you do bypass it, the little clock in the upper left-hand corner of the screen will not be visible.

The min/max function is to know what is the minimum and maximum measurement that has been reached in a specific measurement, whether in farads, volts, amps, etc.

Its good at most times. However, it is crappy when measuring voltages sometimes. Lets say the initial voltage reading was zero and you pressed min/max. If you connected the multimeter to something out of the 6v range, the multimeter would read OL constantly unless you turn off min/max. I guess its poor programming by the manufacturer.

Very interesting, I've tried a few things and it always returns to DC...I wonder what the difference is.

@@SimpleElectronics I have noticed while watching other KZfaq video's that some default to AC. Might be a safety issue because years ago with analog meters, one of the safety precautions was to switch the meter to AC so that when used the next time, the meter movement would be protected from damage. Those were the days when most meters never had fuse protection. I have a digital bench multimeter that switches to AC position before DC both volts and millivolts. I would like to hear from others that have bought the Kaiweets HT118A that have the same issue. Anyway, thank you for a very informative video...

@@SimpleElectronics I found out that Kaiweets actually designed this meter for Electricians since AC is what is measured most of the time. Later they got complaints from many people in the electronics field that bought the Kiaweets HT118A and decided to change the default mode to DC instead of AC. So I think many of them have been changed. Really does not matter. The meter functions work either way. Just wanted to let you and your viewers know.

I bought in UK and my meter defaults to AC , its surprisingly annoying , and if you dont use the meter for a while its easy to forget .

100 mf

No idea! I would start by cleaning the dial contacts with alcohol and go from there

@@SimpleElectronics I cleaned the dial contacts with alcohol but no luck. It failed at the gears(light blue) that take alternating signals. Probably the chip failed prematurely.

It can!

I made it! Right here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o9WKZKSfp92RfKc.html

You just have to put on your $295.00 Oakly shades and all will be fine!!!

Well, you can actually get an unbranded HT118A so who knows what if any difference at all between those.

@Janardan S hahaha. they are pretty good tho.

Update. I returned it and got a replacement. No screen flicker!

I think the point of this is that teh cheaper multimeters have come a LONG way and yeah - I wouldn't use it as a professional electrician, but I have used it as a professional mechanic and it works great!

Absolutely! I doubt very much if it's fully compliant with the relevant standard EN/ISO 61010-1 and at that price point the correct HBC fuses are unlikely to be used.

Breathe man, you'll be okay.

Why?

​@@topdekc3226 Because in a meter made as cheaply as this it is very unlikely it will comply with the safety requirements to protect the user in the event of misuse or a fault. That's why Fluke and the like are more expensive.

It's really not