I bought a $200 Tevo Tarantula back during the tevo craze then put about 400$ worth of mods on it. LOL. I was wondering where the company was. Sorry to hear that they never stepped up like other print companies have.

Hi, Thanks for keeping people aware of these safety issues. I see they haven't really improved lol. I had (and still have) a Tevo Tornado from back around 2018. I wouldn't turn my back on it either due to the issues you discuss. I did make it somewhat safer by 1) Earthing the frame and putting strain relief of that mains heated bed cable 2) putting a better SSR in there 3) Attaching a Raspberry Pi to it's USB via cable and installing Octoprint and the TP Smartplug plugin. This plugin can be configured to shut down all power should the bed or hotend temp go beyond a certain limit or misbehave. I did a video on it. Back then, it need two plugins and quite a lot of configuration but nowadays the people who write the TP Link smartplug plugin have incorporated the temerature failsafe so it is easy. May save you throwing it out? . The only thing you need to remember is that you need to reserve whatever IP your smartplug is using in your router's firmware (and make sure to save those settings in the router) otherwise, if you are using dchp then the plug may get assigned a different IP address upon next powerup and the Pi won't be able to reach it and shut off the printer if anything goes wrong. It is pretty easy tbh. Tevo also used fake FTDI chips in the Tornado (the chip that hanfles communication over USB), meaning that serial connection over USB would time out, shut down or plain not work. I put a genuie FTDI chip on my board. They may have switched them now but if you get communication issues then that is probably why. Hopefully, they switched to CH340 chips which work fine. If the FTDI chip is fake then the Pi failsafe method may not be reliable. One last thing, if the heated bed cables go through the frame then please make sure none of the live pins or wires can touch the frame. On the Tornado, the live 240v mains was exposed on one of the DIN socket pins on the back of the box. The box was also switched and fused on the neutral. This meant that even if you switched the box off, 240v mains was still present inside the box and was exposed on the connector at the back of the box! Long story short, unplug it from the mains at the wall before working on any of the electronics. The Tornado also had Thermal Runaway protection disabled in firmware by default. All in all a bit of a nightmare really. I did a vid on re-builing it and making it safer. I have better printers now so barely use it but It is on my channel. Let me know if you want a link. Cheers. Subbed.

A thin flimsy power cable is very disturbing when dealing with ac power on an all metal printer that generates heat. Thanks for your honest review. It’s helpful to know what to look for. That printer is a nightmare liability waiting to happen. Did you get your money back?

Tevoup did not have a choice on A/C heat bed, but they should have added the thermal fuse for safety. The previous version (dc heated bed) was unable to heat the bed, and would cause all but the smallest prints to fail. The electronics case is not large enough to hold a power supply with enough watts to heat the bed. The A/C bed heater was the right choice, but downsizing the power supply more, and not adding adequate saftey features was not. I won't speek to the workmanship part. I have the previous version of the Tevo/Homers Tarantula. 1st, it is so heavly modified it barely resembles the original. 2nd, suprise suprise, it is not up and running yet due to more heavy modifications needed to get it back on line. There is another printer that Starts with an "S" and ends with an "06" that is printing all the parts to repair and modifiy the Tarantula. The second printer does all this, with light mods, and basicly prints anything I throw at it 24/7 without any issues.

have been using a tevo tarantula pro for 3 years that is a replica of that printer, the thin metal parts are mostly used for aesthetic or low stress parts, they have thermal runaway enabled in the firmware by default, it doesn't need a fuse because if the printer sends energy and doesn´t detect temperature change in the thermistor of the bed or nozzle or gets abruptly colder, it stops sending energy and totally resets the printer, a fuse in the other hand, just prevents a peak of energy getting into the bed, if something goes wrong before the fuse and you just use the fuse instead of thermal runaway you will never know if there is a problem and it is certainly dangerous, even some weeks ago I was getting false thermal runaway resets because I was trying to print ASA in a cold day so the bed wasn´t getting in temperature at the time expected, I modified that range a little bit and the everything went fine still thermal runaway is enabled but triggers in another ranges considered low--medium risk, never had problems with wiring neither with wobling, that wobles are almost imposible during printing as they are mostly repicable aplying an external force to the gantry or a force in a direction never used by the printer, for example if you apply force by the side of the bed it might wobble but the printer never uses a force in that direction, it uses it the other cordinate where if first gets moving before even getting the chance to wobble, having everything too tight or without a healthy amount of play might cause an increment in resonance an vibration transfer, speaking of the other machine it might be better and has a promissing but terrible "innovation" the all in one hotend cable, gut luck trying to change the bouden tube or the cable indivitually or trying to make a fillament pull as you need to disconnect the tube from the hotend but also you need energy in it to gradually increase the temp.

"Hmm, good question, I don't usually check under there" Reads video title quickly "TARANTULA WTF"

The bed only used one half of the 120v AC, Effectively Making it DC and 60v. Atleast that is my understanding. I would do a video in the future on adding the fuse and where to get Good Quality replacement. If that Video is popular you could Do a video that maybe fixes other common issues

Wiggle the hornet the same as you did on the tornado, with both hands-on the extremes, and you will see they have similar play. You are only doing this on the tornado it seems. While these style printers are very popular, I never liked printers that employ rollers for guide rails same can be said about cnc machines. I designed my own cnc machines with pillow block bearing rails for ultimate guide rail rigidity and smoothness. I enjoy your videos regardless. Thumbs up.

this video dissapoints me a lot. it is not because of the review. More about the "printer safety" part. You missed some verry important safety checks, e.g. Cable Diameters and connector current/voltage ratings, Thermal runnaway protection for the nozzle. You opened the Printer and talked about the Danger of loose mains lines but never mentioned the Reason why there is the Protective Earth (PE) connected to electrical devices. Why didn't you check if the metal parts of the printer were connected to PE and maybee measured the Resistance of some metal parts to PE. Why didn't you talk about leaving a Printer unsupervised is a bad idea. All in All the "printer safety" in the tile is not a good choice.