A plumber that installed drains in my basement called em' that too...

If I run a 3 inch pipe I don't need a vent?

@@bayoceanbear Not if the minimum size of the drain that line is servicing is 1 1/2". The only place that we ever utilized this option was on kitchen sinks that were installed in an island that had no walls to run a vent. we would go from a 90 * to a 3x3 sanitary tee with 2 x 1 1/2" bushing. We would still include an air admittance valve to make sure there was no callback on the plumbing inspection so from the bushing we would go to a 1 1/2" tee with a p-trap and the air admittence valve. Where you have to be careful is if you intend to install a disposal because that drops the height of the drain outlet down significantly and all of those fittings can turn into a problem. In some cases you may have o install the cleanout at the top of the 3: sanitary tee and the 3 x 1 1/2" bushing in the side. Creativity is somtines required to make things fit. Good luck.

In our area, the inspectors hate wet venting. They will insist you install a dedicated vent tied into the ceiling.

Thanks

you just drop the pipe through the bottom of the cabinet and studer vent it

You are welcome!

no

@@PlumbingSolutionsLLC thanks

Nor are the code in Montana. We use the UPC. These are one of those instances where yes, the will work but they are not code correct. I see using one of these of a kitchen sink very problematic. How long with all the grease and crap that is discharged into a KS until this mechanism gets clogged up and ceases to operate??

you can but its a lot of extra work and there is not a whole lot of room

@@PlumbingSolutionsLLC I have 13’ gables, just going up, over and out and up again. Then just caulk and seal the siding. Should be very easy if allowed.

​@@neckofthewoods24 There is a requirement that vents "shall terminate not less than ten (10) feet from, or at least three (3) feet above, any openable window, door, opening, air intake, or vent shaft...". and at least where I live, vented soffits, which is the norm, are considered "an opening" and vents cannot be installed below them. Installing an approved flashing on your roof per manufacturers recommendations is the best way. The method you describe does not prevent rain water from traveling down the exterior of the pipe and following it to the location where you made a horizontal penetration. Even if you caulked this penetration well during installation, temperature fluctuations begin to affect it immeditely and in a short period of time it can result in a separation between the caulk and the pipe or the siding, both of which will allow the water to enter the home. It can run down the exterior, behind the siding and cayse rot, or it can enter the home, get into the ceiling and cause both rot AND mold. There is a reason that the vents are installed vertically and this is just a brief summary of why. Good luck and feel free to ask any additional questions you may have. Cheers.

@@vanhattfield8292 a side vent would be no different than a house dryer vent exit, a house water spigot, a bathroom fan exit, an outside light source etc. they all need caulked and exit the side of the house and those don’t rot and cause issues. The gable ends have no near openings and the soffits are sealed. I have 2’ overhangs too that should protect and not have the water run down the siding as easily. As long as it’s allowed it should be a much better exit than a roof. Curious if the pipe has to come out and straight up or just out with a 90 up or down elbow etc.

@@neckofthewoods24 Not sure why you keep asking & then arguing with these plumbers who do it for a living that surely know & keep explaining the codes to you, along with the reasons for them, when it sounds to me like you already know everything & are going to go ahead & do whatever you want anyway. You think if you didn't know something, you'd shut the hell up & listen to people who do. Damn dude

SC

@@PlumbingSolutionsLLC Nice! I am too. Are you guys hiring for apprenticeships?

You can only use a tee when going from a horizontal to a vertical. you have to use a wye everywhere else

Water doesn’t know whether to go left or right- you have to tell it which way to go. Also, if you’ve gotta snake the line, a wye will direct the cable properly, in the direction of flow toward the main stack; with a tee, your snake cable may turn the wrong way.

"Y'"'s allow for water and waste that is being expelled to move in a continual flow and maintain momentum, which assisits in the process. If water is discharged directly down into a T as you describe, the momentum is lost, water and waste is scattered in both dfirections by ther force of the impact, and it then takes gravity to restart the drainage process. This allows any solids to built up at that location quickly and if there is not sufficient water being discharged upstream from that location on a regular basis, a stoppage will develop. The stoppage will most likely not affect the drain discharging at that location because it wil form a "plug" that will divert the water downstream, but it will affect everything upstream. Plumbing is enginneered so that the main lines slow down the flow of water during a flush to "float" the solids and not let the water from the flush to rush by. Water from places like sinks, tubs and showers "washes" the main pipes and properly installed systems using the right fittings in the right aplication is what helps prevent problems. Hopefully this is enough information to help explain things. Cheers!

better to be too low , you can always put a tailpiece extension on there. but if your too high.. now you have a problem.