These are the videos that are gold! Tough diagnostics is what turns good technicians into great technicians.

This type of video is what we all need to see. Real world real struggles. Love the fact you didnt edit the new switch out. Us "little guys" can get disheartened very quickly thinking that the Elite never take a wrong turn. Seeing the struggle is just as important as seeing the fix. Great job

That's what makes these videos the best. They are shot in real time as you go thru the process. Other KZfaq videos show repairs in a perfect world which isn't always the scenario. Sherwood loves the phrase "rabbit hole". Please don't change your videos. They are very entraining. I like seeing the mistakes & the every day troubleshooting. Thanks for making these videos..

Seeing the red alarm indicator light on the dash, should be something that a service writer should’ve seen when doing the initial inspection on the car. Especially without a key fob. Instead of just the clam shell coming apart, the lower dash panels should’ve come off too as part of the visual inspection by the technician. Something for everyone to keep in the back of their mind for next time.

This is a prime example of why i hate aftermarket accessories like what we saw here.

It’s always the aftermarket crap, unfortunately. Even though it was choppy, it was still an informative video. Well done!

That's real life, right there. Really liked that one, illustrates the "treasure hunt" as you work your way through the clues. Also points out that the "treasure map" might have some b.s. information included to hinder your efforts. Sometimes you have to back up and prove to yourself what's happening on each wire to avoid the rabbit hole. Especially after it's fixed the "wait-wait-wait, lets verify exactly what's happening on that circuit", now you know 100% it's fixed and why. Satisfaction in that, and more learning. Cool stuff, thanks. Al H.

My understanding of the ignition switch is, that the run-start means when ignition switch is in it's rest position there are no continuity. As soon as you turn the ignition switch to start there are going to be continuity between run-start (spring loaded). So you have B+ on input pin of ignition switch, once you switch to Run, the input pin makes a close contact with the Run pin and as soon you turn the key further to start the Run pin close contact with Start pin meaning you have B+ on Run and Start pins for as long as you keep the key in the start position, but as soon you release the key, the spring will force the contact between Run-Start to disconnect and the system will run as designed.

Respect,respect,respect sir !!! This is not ''Car Wizard'' You Tube channel....This is SERIOUS information !!! Thank you a million times....Don't change anything...

Thanks for sharing. As a tech I appreciate the real world diagnostics. This is what you actually have to deal with vs what is in a class.

This was a GREAT upload! Things were better in he old days when manufacturers actually provided EXTRA switched and non-switch power terminals in the fuse box. This is what happens when you start connecting things in ANY location. THANKS

Wow, very nice video and just shows how complicated your job is.

Thanks for posting. I have in the past refused to work on any vehicle equipped with an after market remote start installed. This was when I worked at PepBoys. It was a Flat rate shop.

This is excellent. Love that Professor can say there was a small mistake with the ignition switch diag. but shows he went back almost starting all over. I wish my shop foreman was like him. Great stuff guys.

Brilliant fix! You've given me a new-found respect for those who can troubleshoot automotive electrical issues. It takes keen mind, experience and the luck to find the information you need! I'm guessing somebody DIY installed those aftermarket boxes. Good stuff!

Great Lesson, In Electrical Diagnostics nothing is easy : ) lol I got 30 years experience and Alarm Hack's have made me look like an apprentice, a few times. I usually throw those aftermarket alarms 1,000 feet from me. After finding them hooked up like that. thanks for providing the content, plus your time and Camera Helper, 😊

Typical aftermarket junk. Always upsetting to work on aftermarket stuff, makes you waste your time. But at the end you charge them for your time. Thanks for posting another great video.

In power generation we have multiple crank disconnect circuits in one system since the generator starts automatically. Wiping out a ring gear on a 16 cyl larger bore engine is costly. Some controllers use oil pressure, ac from the starter, ac voltage from the generator and rpm to name a few. We also have crank timers.

I like your video's you show your struggles , i have been at this a few years and still miss stuff at times

really good one this week! i know jobs like that suck but, nice to have to use our brain once in a while to get to the root cause.

Excellent video. As always after market garbage giving us a lot of troubles that we shouldn't have.

Always check for aftermarket alarm systems in any vehicle. I’ve had that same issue years ago. I make it a habit of checking under the dash for those dreaded black boxes 😂. Awesome video though 👍🏻

Once had a 99 Ram I bought used and after a while I realized the door locks didn't work right did a little inspection and when I got under the dash I saw a viper alarm system I didn't know was there I traced every wire from that thing and removed them they had been connected using those blue splice connectors you see people use on trailer light wiring everywhere I removed them I put liquid tape on the wire got that thing completely removed and everything worked great after that

Excellent work man!

I love this KZfaq channel 👍👍👍

A lot of tracing. Well done.Thanks for the show.

Great video, Had a truck that would run 30 seconds and shut off, long story short the car was from a bad credit no problem dealer and it had a disable if you did not pay they shut you off . Just throwing that out there .

Great video as a diag tech myself boy it can sure be frustrating without proper information or wiring diagrams. Great video and good job!!! KEEP IT UP 💯

Only thing I would have done differently before condemning the ignition switch would have been to turn the switch with a screwdriver to eliminate the lock cylinder. And checked pin voltages on the connector chart

Great video,awesome.

A Power Probe can pull down some low current circuits, like 5 volt bias / sensor wiring.. can trip you up. They are not 10 megohm impedance like a meter

I love the videos. I was looking for a video to look into common problems/fixes for when a keyfob is stuck in the ignition with no power coming to the car when the battery is still good and has power. I have a 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 3.6L. I saw the security light on when trying to turn over the engine before all electronics turned off.

Found this channel and love it!

Great video,and great job.

Great video..Love all ya content..keep it up very helpful

Great information brother.

Awesome!

Experience diagnosis master los ase los intala alarma ese no sabes intalar alarm mas bien proboca probrama saludes noel matute master

Great video!

My daughter had a remote starter put on her car and 5 years later after she had lost the remote starter key fob she walked out of work to her car running and on that winter day the car was at operating temperature,so she had no idea how long it was running. After it happened as she was walking away from the car to go into work she called me to remove the remote start system. 3 hours later i removed the remote start system and fixed the damaged wires.

The famous mystery black boxes. What can go wrong?

Buy here pay here low jack, I can’t imagine anyone using a 06’ style of remote start today

Bias voltage is real but only when it's suppose to have it. Careful with Chrysler/Stellantis electrical. They are terrible for changing midyear and not showing both version or giving the wrong information.

I think everyone would have put an ignition switch in it too. Was that black box an aftermarket remote start ?

I know it does not matter to the end result, but I wonder if the main problem is in the smaller box. If the larger module was reconnected, the issue would be proved into the smaller unit. Again, I know it does not matter, just curious. Great video.

Nothing is ever easy!

This is what happens when Fonzie tries to be a mechanic 😂

I had a similar situation with an early Jeep the TPS was at max output ie the 5 volt reference voltage it turned out being the clock spring & the fault was in the cruise control wiring in the clock spring feeding back to the TPS replaced clock spring problem solved

The wiring diagram for the starting circuit shows the ignition switch yellow wire as going to the low side coil of the relay, then to the pcm. The pcm diagram shows that same yellow wire as being a direct input from the ignition switch to the pcm. That's some nonsense right there, without even looking at the more confusing inaccuracy of the pinout chart.

i had a fault with a transit custum doing the same and it was the ignition lock disconect the switch and manualy work it it would be fine plug it back on the barrell fault was back

when is ac part 2 is comming?

I hate aftermarket 💩 installed in vehicles

I’m kind of confused by relay theory when it’s energized. I’ve seen relays being jumped from their primary power and ground with the little relay jumper switch that slots into the relay pins to jump power to the circuit but if the relay is not there being energized then how is the normally open tips inside the relay going to be closed to complete the circuit?

I’m confused on how the power probe shows 8v but the incandescent test light doesn’t show any light at all?

Is this also called bias voltage?? Trying to learn

Eric O CSI Enhance, enhance CTRL + Scroll **Read all / ending**😶 We had one were both A Techs couldn't figure it out sitting 1-2 weeks. I got sent over to give a jump they just got back from a 6 month cruise, towed over. They asked if I would look at it cause I like Diag work as I'm a B Tech. Our case was someone wired an aftermarket radio, backup camera, , 12v switched to the Key Sense circuit only 2 amp fuse. pew pew pew. Took me less than an hour figure it out. Both A+ Techs jumped to complex systems first. Never checked KISS pwr checks, they didn't check all fuses, only 2, removed the box out, checking box and fuses under. Gave the A+ Tech back the RO that willing to do the repair, the first wack failure, I tossed a fuse in it, drove it around for a bit, parked it, relayed test drive to tech, ship it. Truck comes back on the hook. Same thing, now owner pissed at us. We're like you drove away, I test drove it, what did you do since leaving? Thats when we found the AM audio system tapped in the Key Sense. Turn the volume up and POP.....

A good wiring diagram make troubleshooting much easier, the unknown will drive anyone in circus. It would be nice to have add-ons documented to reduce confusion, but the owner may not even know of the add-ons to there vehicle. Great troubleshooting.

That'll be $1495 please... \m/ 😎🤣

Wow how do bill for that craziness

The only easy fix is to part that thing out

After market disaster!

The difficulty with most of the diagnostics is there is simply not enough information on how the circuit works. What would have been helpful was being able know what you are actually supposed to see on the different circuits. Essentially the red flag was the 8 volts on the yellow wire circuit when the vehicle is off. How do you know if that is normal or not? You don't because there is nothing that tells you or shows otherwise. The wiring diagram merely shows you the circuits not the way they work or function especially with a circuit that is monitored or controlled by the ECM. I will be honest I would have went in the same direction you did. What you did was logical. Good video. I have been their brother. I have been saved a number times by tracing wires. I like it when someone splices a power wire into a power circuit that is monitored by the ECM. If the ECM sees voltage on the circuit before it is supposed to you have a hard set code. The only way you will find the fault is by graphing the circuit during a power up.

I am a anti aftermarket person. I tell all my friends and family if the manufacturer Didn't offer the extra bell Or whistle dont hang that crap on

STEP 1 CALL THE CUSTOMER TELL THEM WE NEED TO REMOVE ALL NON FACTORY WIRING,

After market junk doesn’t have to be wired badly. But its still junk.

I have learned after dealing with a few starting issues where people have installed aftermarket crap like that, I want even start diagnosing until it is either bypassed or removed completely. If it’s not a problem yet it will be eventually.

you went way further than I would have during that diagnostic as soon as I was being forced to go near that aftermarket junk hacked into the harness I would have demanded another hour of labor just to remove that and then continue my diagnostic

Good job figuring that out. My comment would be based on the tooling used. Wish you did not go from state of the art lab scope to bottom of the barrel power probe as this would and should confuse young techs trying to get into actual diag. I get it if you are trying to be more relatable to the techs that may be watching but a proper multi meter would be a good step down from a scope if you need to simplify. That rocker switch on a power probe is way to dangerous for me to even allow one in my shop, never been a fan of smoking modules at my expense and I am sure you know what I mean by that.

Solid find, but IMO you spent a lot of time on it. As soon as I see aftermarket garbage wired in I tell the customer that's got to go before I do anything else. Been burned by that crap too many times.

We don't like watching these videos just to see after the fix we want to see it being fixed. That's why I watch scanner Danner because he shows from stat to finish on most videos and I watch pine hollow diagnostic