Jrad Jordanian do yourself a favor and spend 30 on a ATC and a Prusik loop at minimum before you fall. Using this knot as a lifeline is a horrible idea and should never be done.

Never use a reef knot for applications that do not have constant tension. The reef knot will come undone (unless you back it up with more knots). As far as I understand it, the reef knot has no use in climbing applications apart from tying your shoe laces and securing a butterfly coil backpack around your waist.

Chowder Stevens alborzrappel.com/khadmat-ma/103-پیچ-و-رولپلاک-سنگ,نماشویی,ابندی,خدمات-نما,در-کرج-و-تهران

Is he that guy from BTU? I love those guys.

To us old time Knot tiers this pronunciation of this great old knot makes the hair on my neck stand up ! I'm in my middle seventies and have tied knots millions of times on the farm and working ! He should at least learn their proper names !

​@@davidelo5843 Tying a knot countless times doesn't necessarily mean that you know how to pronounce it. The prusik knot was named after an Austrian mountaineer, hence why the correct way would be to pronounce the name in Karl Prusik's native tongue, which is actually done correctly in this video. :)

Don’t fully rely on it. When belaying we typically use an asymmetric carabiner. In these cases you do need to screw up as that is how it was designed. However when you are using a symmetric carabiner such as the D carabiners shown you can screw down so you don’t screw up.

I disagree. This knot is too risky. Friction is a concern.

You should say why you think it's sketchy. I've used the Klemhist a lot

Joe Jermain oof😂😂😂

Literally said the billions of people that learn how to do basic stuff on YT

@@bigmanlilcoat in the comment section 3 years back. Nice. You working on your overhand?

@@joejermain9641 yet we find ourselves exchanging conversation today.

Lol you’re so right. Plus he’s using rope for his “chord” there’s no way that actually grips

Even if it slipped, how fast would it slide down? Wouldn't it be a relatively slow descent?

This. Respectfully, I think that the responsible thing for this uploader to do is to take this video down. Friction hitches and ascender/descender systems carry a huge level of risk, and if you wanna be someone who talks about them, you need to be someone who actually knows what you're talking about, and pays attention. There's other misinformation in this vid as well.

I can’t speak for ice, but I have used this method in training exercises and on law enforcement/rescue ops. It’s not the best option out there, but it does work in a pinch. Has yet to ever fail. Tied and true in both wet and dry environments.

Nope, if it failed it would soon run at full speed. A bachmann offers less friction than a standard prussik because the carabiner touching the rope does not add additional friction.

This is not the only very VERY dangerous video from the same guy. He has learned some knots and talks about them as if he knows them and their weaknesses. He does not.

I can attest to meeting the ground at speed :(

Thanks men, this knot is totally useless ... for a climber

Makes good sense this one

I was just thinking that. It would be like an ascender for an emergency.

Or just use one for your leg and one attached to your harness like a texas kick

besteversaw is

yea why 3?

bazawhacha it works well as a substitute for a hand ascender...better than a prusik or klemheist. Its much easier to release the tension on the rope by sliding the carabiner up the rope. To get maximum friction, i hold the carabiner in one hand, then pull down on the loop with the other hand, getting all the wraps tight before putting my weight into a foot sling i have attached to the bachmann’s carabiner. But yeah, other than for this specific use, ive never used it for much else. Still though, i feel like it performs this specific role better than other friction hitch, so i keep the knot in my repertoire.

Every video ive seen from this guy has the same comment section. Actual climbers calling out his lack of information. I don't climb and i can tell hes a phony, by his lack of confidence and his terminology.

Just to preface I am not a qualified climber, or even a hobby climber, so this guy likely has more experience than me, however that being said even to the untrained eye it is obvious this ascending knot requires friction to function. I highly doubt this guy is qualified to teach this knot, and him coming onto to youtube and posting this as if he knows what hes talking about is downright reckless and could end with someone losing their life or being seriously injured. This guy seems like a weekend warrior, I find it difficult to speculate this guy has military training. He has also posted a video on how to use a riggers belt to emergency descend, in which he made numerous fatal mistakes. This knot may work but the problem is this guy is trying to teach these knots as if he has some type of formal training. And people who are none the wiser will see this video and trust their lives on this knot. It shows a lack or self awareness, a lack of respect for others and just general impotence. I will watch videos from ACTUAL Green Beret's and SF trained guys if you know military you know this guy is a try-hard fraud. I Don't like being overly critical but this guy keeps posting videos as if he is somehow qualified in the things he speaks on and from this video alone that is obviously not the case. This video could be fatal or result in serious injury, it should be removed along with his other climbing videos for their outright callous disregard for human life.

Why do you say that? It does work. I think you have no clue whatsoever. That's not the main knot, it's an accessory knot in case you slip.

Works fine although the user always has the responsibility to use the ‘friction hitch’ properly and approximately. I think Jen Yates is overstating her point. It’s not dangerous properly used.

Its a safety you goofball

Keep fighting the good fight my friend.

😂😂😂😂😂😂 should teach grade school

This guy is teaching you how to get killed. This video should be removed for public safety.

David Hutchison that's because this guy doesn't know what he's talking about. As others have mentioned, this should not be used for ascending any rope, wet or dry.

You can use this for acenssion I just wouldn't use it on a wet rope I have used it on drdry ropes most my life climbing over 10 yrs and never had an issue by I use it with a foot sling attached to the end of the rope hanging off the carabiner and only use the carabiner to slack off the rope after I have pulled up any extra rope gained through my croll device , this bloke demonstrating just has no idea of how to use I tt correctly :/

Ive used it too, in the exact way you described. Having a toothed chest ascender like a croll is key. Even if the bachmann slips a little, the load will just transfer to the chest ascender. On a dry rope the knot isn’t going to slip much, if at all...especially if, like you mentioned, you pull the slack out of the bachmann wraps before applying a load to the knot (like stepping in a foot loop). In a pinch, it can do the job of hand ascender/foot loop, no problem...as long as you know how to use it. But like you said, it doesn’t seem like the guy in the vid actually knows. He didn’t even mention the most important part. If you’re using a rope instead of a sling, the rope needs to be a smaller diameter than your main rope...otherwise it’s going to have trouble gripping. Friction hitches have been around a lot longer than ascending devices. They may not be as convenient, but they work. I wouldn’t want to try an icy rope without something with teeth though, thats for sure.

Are you using two ropes of the same diameter? That won’t work. The bachmann’s rope has to be a smaller diameter than your main rope, or it won’t be able to curve enough to grip your main rope. Another option is to make your wraps with a loop sling instead of a prusik loop. This is probably the most important thing to know about the bachmann knot. Wasn’t mentioned in the video🤔

I'm going to answer my own question. The Bachmann is the superior rappel brake, but only if done right, if done wrong it will fail completely. It is superior to the autoblock and kliemheist due to its easy of manipulation, but Its tendency to fail if used wrong is its weakness. A study by Standford done on the Bachmann show it is only reliable when the accessory cord is half or less the diameter of the rappelling rope. Here is the study web.stanford.edu/group/alpineclub/info/frictionknots.htm You will see at the summary of this study, when the Bachmann cord exceeded half the climbing rope it would fail to arrest.

I totally disagree, the Bachman is not the superior autoblock in that it is NOT an autoblock knot.an Autoblock knot functions in BOTH directions. The Bachman only "has friction lock in one direction. Your Autoblock knots are gonna be knots that have connection points from center of knot or the ends of the tails leave the knot on opposite sides. I,E prussik, taunt line, etc..

Oh and I always used a trippple fisherman's knot too ;)

Oh holly shit hell no never use the carabiner as a hand hold that's how you loosen the knot to move it up again after applying force what the hell man ...

readyme They’re already grouped, they’re called friction hitches.

It's a hitch

@@climbing200 I am not sure that ,tecnically ,it is a hitch. It is mostly doubled round turns making a lashing. imho

Every time you climb you are literally putting your life on the line.

NOYPI RIDER No! Better alternatives are Prusik, Klemheist and Autoblock in descending order of preferance