Thank you Pat for your valuable input. This IRS came out of a Series I XJ Saloon which met it's untimely demise after a complete restoration. During a wind storm, a tree fell on garage where the car was stored. Flattened it like a pancake. :'( The diff on the bench is a Salisbury powerloc with the 'S' code, adjacent to the serial number and a final drive of 3:54. Maybe the S stand for soaking the discs (with oil). Could the dust shield be a revision added after reported or something specific to the Series III Saloons and XJ-S? The output shafts that came out of this IRS had only one groove for the retaining ring, along with the missing weep groove on the flange. The first go, which is in the video, I tried reusing the old retaining ring, but the tab snapped off while bending it over to retain the nut. Round two with the "new" retaining ring. Two many tabs not enough slots, that's why I ended up cutting off the second retaining tab. Once again, you're correct. the tapered bearing like designed for preload. the output shaft bearings do have a preload, which evidently that bit of the video ended up on the cutting room floor. I have a follow up video in the works that is addressing the discrepancy. As Aristides points out in the comment above, and is what the output shaft are set to, a rotational torque of 4 inch lbs which is for all intent and purpose .003 inchs (.1mm) of preload. Good eye, and thank you for your valuable input.

Oh, I've done a windshield in a Series II and Series III not very successfully, mind you. I worked on loosening the adhesive for 5 days on the Series III before I attempted to remove the glass. I got it out in one piece no cracks or anything. I set down strategically so no stress would be placed on the glass. I went back out into the garage the next morning, to find a crack running from one corner to the other. I wanted to cry. haha😭😱😠

@@JagMods Hey if it makes you feel any better. I just reinstalled my IRS and the last thing I did was bleed the brakes. Low and behold, my left caliper started pissing on the ground. So I had to drop it again last night while I wait on parts. I KNEW I should have pressure tested the brakes, but I've kit a ton of calipers in my life and never had one leak... UNTIL NOW! :-( I wanted to throw a match at it!

@@jagboy69 OH, man. That is a pisser. For what ever it's worth, If I was your neighbor, I'd be there to lend you a hand. Sorry I feel your pain. I did the rear end on my 3/4T Suburban, full floater, 4:11 limited slip diff (8.2 liter big block)- it's a beast! Anyway, the LSD clutches grab BAD when going around a left hand corner. It took a full bottle of friction reducer and it still jerks a little around a left hander. The kick in the nuts is I'm not sure what I did wrong. My next video (if I ever get to it) is going to cover the screw ups during the build. Bench (pre) bleeding and pressure testing the system. I've been tinkering on making a pressure tester / bleeder - haven't gotten too far yet. The calipers in the KZfaq build, have been sitting on the shelf since 2015, I sure as shit hope they don't leak too. I'm also kicking around making remote bleeders. Though, I figure if I do, that will be the first place the brakes will spring a leak. I don't have a mill to put a proper sealing flat. I'm still on the fence with that one.

@@JagMods I did the cunifer tubing and the Eastwood flare tool. Worked great! Trouble I've found is all this aftermarket rubber crap comes from china and they suck at making rubber! It has a real short life. I have the 4speed car and it had 3.54 gears and I hated the car. SO I swapped to 2.88 gears because 3.07 wasnt available. I hope it makes cruising more comfortable or I'm cashing in and dumping this car. I just have never enjoyed driving it and that's a crime.

On the remote bleeders, I tried to source parts for mine and said F it. I bought the moss kit. If a guy could put together a decent priced kit, he'd do good on fleabay. The couple of kits on the market are STUPID MONEY for what they are! 🤬

Thank you for the comment! It's good to know that I got the preload right. Next time I'll use the press for the crush sleeve. I had both feet on the bench trying to tighten the nut. Not good for the threads. That's what I get for cheating - reading the manual ;)

This is the highly abbreviated version. I' typed up a big explanation but I couldn't post it. There are two different Salisbury & Dana 44 diff's used in Jaguars XJ's check out my video "two different IRS brake rotors" other differences are there isn't a drain plug at the bottom of a Dana 44 diff; and the output shaft flange mounts with 3 bolts on a dana44 and the flange is a triangle (ish) shape. Salisibury 4 bolts to the output shaft like in the video. let me know if you have any questions.

@@JagMods Hi, thank you, it`s a Salisbury. I tried to get AEU1803 or AEU1802, but unfortunately, I can`t find a source for those. So I need to replace the bearings and seals by myself. I have difficulties to find the right partnumbers. I got JLM1264 for the seal, JLM290 for the outputshaft bearing and 12456 for the collapsable spacer. Are these the right parts?

@@movario This is a real hard one to say without a shadow of doubt. I take it you've identified the drain plug, and the 5 bolts (not 4 that was a typo - sorry) holding the flange in place, and the input flange from the drive line to the diff is round and not square, and it's a powerloc (LSD) Diff. If so, then the parts listed in my catalog (XJ-S 1975-1981) have the following part numbers 1. The flange seal AAU8271 or RTC1339 which according to SNGBarrat is a JLM 1264. 2. The O'ring seal RTC1340 (1 per side) 3. Inner hub bearings Quantity 2 per side RTC1347 or CAC4999. 4. The crush sleeve RTC1348. 1 per side 5. The retention washer - 12265 1 per side The part that has tabs that fold over the inner nut holding everything in place.

@@movario But wait! there's more!! the retaining washer... The part that has tabs that fold over the inner nut holding everything in place. The one from SNG Barratt will have to inner tabs and the output shaft will (or may) have groove for the inner tab to seat in. I snapped off the other inner tab in order to make it useful. I wouldn't recommend using the old retaining washer due to metal fatigue on the bent tabs. I tried it one the other side, and unfortunately once everything was finally tightened to spec, the same tab was the only one that would bend over a flat (spot) on the nut. I tried bending it over again, and it snapped off. So had to take it a part, use the new (ly modified) retention ring, check the torque spec to ensure it was with in the 4 inch lbs. check out the lock wire video. I can't remember if I suggested which wire to use it's stainless steel. .032 wire the .041 is too stiff. shoot me a line if you have any questions. You'll have to make a socket to check the 4 inch lbs resistance aka .0001 pre-load.

@@JagMods Thank you so much! Really appreciate it. I try to get these parts. I guess its necessary to make an alignment after removing the IRS?

The dial gauge. Well, it really isn't necessary. You'll need a way to measure the torque on the shaft that as close to but not more than 4 inch lbs. the 4 inch lbs equates to .001 preload on the tapered bearing The torque screw driver is available on amazon. The nut on the other hand / special tool is something that I made up out of a piece of pipe and flat stock & a socket extension I cut up. If you have access to a welder and a way to cut up steel it's a pretty simple tool to make. I guess for that matter it could be made out of wood. There is very little pressure on the output shaft while measuring the torque settings. I made several mistakes in this video. Like not using a press to push the bearing on - i was aware of it, but I didn't have anything on hand to press the bearing on with. Oh, and the dial indicator, which has caused quite the confusion and stir. Basically it really isn't necessary. I used it a a gauge to measure how much endplay was still in the output shaft assembly. It was more or less a gauge for me to tell when I needed to start checking the preload (4 inch lbs). I hope this helps Mark @ Jag Mods

@@JagMods thanks for the answer - I guess I need to make a friend with a welder! Further stupid question - are you using a 48mm spanner?

@@jamesneate3314 I used an imperial 1 7/8 spammer. With respect to the tool I can make one for you. It just that it may be cheaper, to find a fab shop to make one. I can be reached via Twitter at @jagmods If you want the dimensions let me know and I can put something together. Oh and there aren’t any stupid questions. 😉

@@JagMods your comment on wood inspired me and I think I’ve cracked it, thanks for the advice

@@jamesneate3314 Please let me know how you get along. I'd love to hear how that worked!

yes I have watched your channel. and yes I did see that guy; and yes I just shook my head. I will admit I did have to resort to heat to get a carrier off a half shaft. the good book of Green does state to use lock tight on the splines to prevent the rattle and minimize wear from acceleration / deacceleration. But the brain child should've looked at what strength of locktite. because I couldn't budge the two with a 20 ton press, and ended up using a rose bud to unmarry the two. as soon as I saw flames come up between the splines, my suspicions confirmed.

Sng Barrett has a manual it’s an online version but will have everything your looking for the same thing is available via otspubs.com. The price is under $100 and you can print the whole thing if you’re so inclined. It’s where I get my part numbers as well as the instructions. Hard bound series 3 are available on Amazon but frankly I think it’s worthless the series 1 and 2 are very insightful

I've been thinking about whether to write a comment, since I’m still thinking about it, then I will comment. Short version - Swapping inboard to outboard just ruined the handling & ride characteristics of your XJ-S. If someone is hell bent on installing outboard brakes on an XJ, then consider swapping the IRS & emergency brake assembly from a '94-96 XJ-S. The Last couple years of the XJ-S’s had outboard brakes. I completely understand the lure of moving the brakes out to the wheels, I've got a few XJ's that need rear brakes. So, I certainly get it. But is it worth it? Is simplicity of changing brakes out weight the benefit of inboard brakes? Not to me. Here’s why 1. Moving the brakes out to the wheels will increased the unsprung weight and decreased the center of gravity, for which was an integral part of the cars’ design and suspension geometry, which will ultimately have a negative effect on handling & ride quality. What is unsprung weight? It refers to the aggregate weight of the mass outside of the suspension. Stuff like wheels, tires, carriers, brake rotors, calipers, hoses, fluid, emergency brake mechanisms, and any other bits outside the suspension close to the wheels. 2. The Center of gravity gets upset because now the mass of the braking bits which use to be at the center of the car are now dangling out at the corner of the car. Forcing the wheels and tires to deal with the centrifugal forces of the added weight of the braking mechanism. 3. The ride quality suffers as well; because now the tire side walls get to deal with the extra weight of the braking bits both in longitude e and latitude motions. 4. Moving the brakes outboard will also introduces new stress to components that were not designed to deal with rotational (twisting) forces. The components I'm referring to are the IRS subframe (cage), the fulcrum / wishbone, inner and outer wishbone bearings and mounting points. The additional strain will shorten the life these components. Conversely, an inboard brake configuration transfers the rotational forces ONLY through the Differential & half shafts to the wheel. the rest of the suspension components are doing what they were designed to do, maintain the suspension geometry. There’s a reason why the differential mount plate to the IRS cage is reinforced. 5. Reduced stopping power at the rear wheels. Braking pressure at the rear will decrease (marginally) this is because Flexible brake lines do exactly that flex. Not only longitudinally, but in girth as well. Hard brake lines require less pressure (psi) to supply the same braking force as a brake with a flexible brake line. 6. Brake dust. I don't think I need to say anymore about that. Are inboard brakes a pain in the ass to service. without a doubt! is it worth it? not to me. I'll keep my brakes inboard.

This totally threw me so I read all the replies and found this what a relief someone confirms I'm not as stupid as I thought