She is definitely the best boulderer but jain kim can still beat her in lead climbing

@@nicolasjeannet1063 possibly but the two comps I seen where Kim beat her last year janja still topped the route just in a slower time... Also janja swaps straight from boulder to lead so she hasn't just been training just lead... If she did I suspect she would win more lead comps.

@@jamescunningham9277 It is possible she would win more lead comps indeed, just saying she doesn't completely dominate women's overall climbing yet

@@nicolasjeannet1063 true she has competition in each event but combined which the Olympics will be I can't see anyone getting close to her... Unless someone is really good at speed climbing I don't know what any one is like at that event? Do you?

@@jamescunningham9277 She definitely has great chances to win the olympics. Same as Ondra I guess. The combined system at the olympics is quite obscure to me though so I can't tell who of the speed, boulder or lead is favoured overall, if any.

It's all about physics duhh

Absolutely. She won every single world cup she entered in 2019. She takes the win no matter what the conditions. Best bar none.

@@EGbean2 bouldering not lead. but i agree anyway :)

@@BetaRoutesetting Good catch. It's best to be accurate when there's no need to exaggerate her case for best ever

Best comp climber at least

@@crescentfuze Best any way you slice it. If she focuses on outdoor after the Olympics she will climb Ondra's 9c and then establish the first 9c+

Light

@@mattiloponen92 having high strength weight ratio (from building muscle or losing weight) feels strong no matter how it's gotten.

@@mattiloponen92 Guess I will never get to that point. Must still feel pretty insane to stop your body from swinging that hard.

@@OneDerscoreOneder I dont understand why you're telling me this? You probably didn't get my point.

@@mattiloponen92 oh, you're saying that it feels light if you're that relatively strong? ... I just thought you were saying that that's how she felt _because_ she's 100 lbs.

There are 80 Boulders in 4 different difficulties(20 each difficulty), giving each 10,20,30 or 40 points(regarding the difficulty). If you do the boulder first try you get 10% extra points, so 11,22,33 or 44 per Boulder. For your score you summarize the 20 highest score you earned(the 20 hardest boulders you did). In the ranking you can see The number of the boulder and the given points.

@@philippw4207 thanks so much, that makes complete sense

@@philippw4207 Thanks man, crystal clear. Do men and women do the qualification round on the same set of 80 boulders?

@@OwKuT971 yes, they do. That allows some interesting comparison :)

self made with Launchpad

It even makes sense in German (embellish/decorate).

I don't think it's an effect, it's due to the fact that power is 50Hz, so lights flicker, it's just that our eyes don't normally notice it but high speed cameras do.

Better...

It's not an effect. It's a function of the shutter speed and frame rate of the camera and the fluorescent lights which in Germany flicker at a 50 times a second. You can see it clearly if you look at the light at 3:30. It's just the light and not the skylights overhead that flicker

@@performingartist well you learn something every day. nonetheless it is not that great.

@@performingartist Given that with the right camera and settings this form of strobing can be compensated for, it could be described as a practical effect resulting from the combination of equipment, settings, and shooting environment couldn't it? I was under the impression that just because it's not added after the fact doesn't preclude the description of it as an effect. I suppose intent might come into it though. Like, if it's intentional it's an effect, if it's accidental and undesired it's, what, an artifact? I'm not a videographer, and I'm not sure about terminology, so I'm happy to learn.

@@seabream It cannot be compensated for with the camera unless you shoot at 100 fps, 50 fps or 25 fps. Then you can sync the shutter to be open at the same time as the lights flash (in EU 100 Hz, America 120 Hz). Slow motion like that is shot with many hundreds of frames per second, so inevitably some frames are captured when the lights are dimmer. You might be able to reduce the flickering after the fact in video editor with automatic exposure compensation designed to remove flickering (it boosts dimmer frames to match the brightness of the brighter ones).

@@seabream No, it's not an effect. An effect is always added afterwards. This is common accepted knowledge. No need to find a way to justify saying it was an effect.

Pro tip: if you dont like the music you can mute it.

Not very nice...

@@dillonhooks7925 why?

She's actually quite light, she weighs under 60 kg. She does look strong tho I think is what you meant to say

Probably "training" with a bit more weight and then leaning before olympics...

@@Tam3n maybe she wants to be the strongest woman in the Olympics. The Tokyo weather will be hot and humid so she'll need to be at full strength. Cutting weight with only 5 months to go could interrupt her recovery

In what way?

I'd say 'long arm' advantage.. I have noticed she does have rather long limbs.