Hey Joe! Thanks for watching!

I appreciate it.

Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!

Have you had any trouble finding Japan drier locally? I heard they stopped making it.

I just did my 26' flatbed trailer using this ratio. Worked like a charm. 4 coats total, 2 primer and 2 color, 3.5 gallons total all in the same day

I try to film whenever I spray, in the meantime here are a few other videos: Rustoleum primer/color coat: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bMufebyF1Z-ciHk.html Mix and spray rustoleum: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNN1ibFk2a-vdok.html Gun set up tips: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jN5kgNyVz8fcpZs.html

I can also say, a 4x8 cheap grow tent with a phresh intake filter will get you hepa filtered air results. Roughly 10 minutes to set up and another 10 to take down. Great portable paint booth for smaller projects.

Thanks for that!

@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 I have a question for you and by the way thank you for your great videos. Being as you had used a one to four ratio instead of a one to eight did the job turn out okay?

Huh, interesting. As far as JD not drying paint faster is that a personal observance or have you got some documentation?

@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 I've tried Japan drier in rustoleum. It didn't cure any faster. I've put the acrylic enamel catalyst purchased from the tsc store into rustoleum, and it was completely cured the next day. Hard as can be. Usually rustoleum will stay soft for months. Dry on the outside, but not really usable since you can still stick a finger nail in it and gouge it. The only thing I've found that hardens it, is that paint hardener made specifically for oil based enamel. There is a lot of info on the internet on how acrylic enamels harden. It needs oxygen to harden. It does not harden the way solvent based paints harden. Solvent based paints dry when the solvent such as acetone evaporates. Acrylic enamels cure to harden, not through solvent evaporation. It's a diffrences process. I wish Japan drier did work on rustoleum. It would be a lot cheaper than having to pay $20 for a little can of enamel hardener. And that hardener has a short shelf life. That hardener will not work a year after the can has been opened. I know, because I tried using what I had left over in the can from over a year before. Rustoleum professional paint has a different paint formula. It seems to dry quicker without adding hardener. But still not as quick as adding fresh hardener.

Acetone dries WAYYYYYY faster! I tried with mineral spirits and it took several hours to safely touch it. The mineral spirits seems to have a little less orange peel but if you have bug concerns the acetone is a life saver. I sprayed two coats using his mixture (4 parts paint/3 parts acetone/4% Japan drier by paint volume/6% hardener by paint volume) and in under 3 hours it seems safe to handle.

Think of how many more paint jobs you could've fit in.

I empty whatever residual paint is left in the cup and spray some acetone through. Thanks!

Did you have to scuff the surface before you shot the 2nd coat...being that so much time was between coats? Also, can I ask why you waited so long between coats? Thanks for these very informative videos!!! :)

Very helpful info. Thanks.

Ive had great luck with krylon: amzn.to/3ctxrof I also use majic from my local tractor supply co

Yes, I buy it at the local farm store. Heres an amazon link: amzn.to/32GZb4d Japan drier IS compatible with paint thinner and acetone. Thanks for watching!

Not if you mix and spray it correctly. Orange peel can be caused by improper gun adjustment. Be sure its the proper viscosity and your gun is set correctly. Thanks!

Did you test your theory by recoating in less than 48 hours and not having an issue though? Speeding up the dry time is irrelevant compared to speeding up the cure time.

@@nathanduitch2521 Yes I have. You should be able to recoat much faster than 48 with Japan Drier. Just follow the directions as using too much can cause it to dry so fast the paint alligators.....You can also use pretty much any automotive enamel hardener with Rustoleum or whatever similar brand paint. Majic hardener and the other brands intended for tractor paints are expensive and are on every metric inferior to automotive grade hardeners. Even automotive grade synthetic enamel hardener will give you much better shine and UV protection than tractor paint hardeners. At about the same cost..... I recently used 5 Star xtreme wet look acrylic enamel hardener with Majic tractor paint reduced with naphtha. I waited about 20 minutes between coats. Same as I would have using an automotive grade enamel paint.

Yes you can just use 4:3 without hardener. Clean metal primer should reduce well. Be sure to watch my other rustoleum video, it has other ratios: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNN1ibFk2a-vdok.html

@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 awesome thank you! I painted today and it worked great 🤟🏼

Awesome, glad to hear that. Thanks for the update

No, usually just the color coat

These carts use a super simple design, all 90* cuts so they are quick to build. I think the steel was about $2.75 a foot (about 25' total), 4 casters of your choosing and build labor was 2.5 hours (without paint). I have an older build video on a smaller version of these exact carts and how to build them here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h7ahnMt9l7WvpJs.html

Yo

I have both the HD gallon and quart spouts, says not to use them with oil paint, but I ignored it and use with both oil and water based paints. 😁

4 parts paint to 1 part japan drier?

@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 paint to reducer then I added a little bit of japan drier

Not sure what the problem could be, The ratio's sound ok. Not sure honestly. I recently had a problem with my truck doors: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qcWcmMhoysXOhqM.html. It was a really cold night and I warmed the door, brought it outside and sprayed it, let it flash then brought it right back in. The door basically went from 90*, down to 50* and back up to 90* in less than an hour, all while being spayed. The paint turned out really flaky. First time I'd experienced it. I scuffed resprayed it and had good results.

@@cdk3283 way too much reducer. Ratio is supposed to be 8:1

You can also cut a 12 or 16oz disposal cup in half to dip your paint and throw it away when done. The clear Walmart 16oz cups are about $5 per 100, I also mix my paint using a kitchen scale with those cups and craft sticks.

Yo

@@LITTLEROCK2517 ?

I think they are all pretty comparable. I mainly use majic or Ellis from my local AG store. But Ive also used the ones I linked to in the description. Thanks Norman!!

Be very careful hardener does NOT contain isocyanate or di isocyanate or methyl di isocyanate or MDI same poison or . 1 it goes through n95 mask you need black nitrile gloves not latex as it goes through them. 2 you need a paint suit full face AIR supplied mask not a filtered one as it is useless against isocyanate. I got poisoned from 2 cans of consumer grade expanding foam from a big box store wearing a n95 respirator same as this man in the video using it outside in a light breeze applying it using the plastic straw it comes with into 6 holes in the boats floor I was rebuilding .I urge any one using isocyanate hardener to you tube videos on working safely with isocyanate paints . With isocyanate you have a life time limit once you reach it you will react with tiny amounts and can have temporary/permanent asthma, serious lung damage , and deaths have occurred . It no joke I worked in auto body before hardener ,many friends who were auto body techs and painter have had to quit the trade . Even sanding modern car and truck clear coats and paints expose you to the isocyanate as does welding and grinding ,it also in box store construction glues the kind you can’t get of your skin . I see 2 part primer starting to be advertised as isocyanate free thank god

1953. Belonged to my uncle's family since new. It was in a barn from 1983-2017.

Same!!! Sat for 34 years?...did you get her running?

Same concept, The hardener is going to make the paint harder and slightly more glossy in addition to faster drying. The Japan drier speeds the dry time. The way I understand it Japan Drier is cobalt based whereas hardener is resin based.

Amen to that. I did since see a guy do it correctly. Apparently you tape half the can off with a V shape

Yes a v shape cover the lid channels. I saw that video to.

@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Get a rubber pour lid from Walmart works great and cheep.