He did that a short while ago already.

Not really an official guide, but my method has always been set the minimum to the lowest rpm where the fans start to become noticably audible. I then plot a linear chart up to 100% fan speed at about 5c before the highest temperature on the component that I'm willing to tolerate. I find most of the time this keeps the fan at or close to the minimum while allowing a linear ramp up when thermals start to increase.

How to tune fan curve. 1) go to bios, 2) find fan curve, 3) set to 100% 4) cewling 💨❄️

Yeah for sure, my old rig ROG strix B550-E fan curve at defaults was perfect but my new build Gigabyte Aorus Pro AX B650 even the silent curve sounds like a friggen server farm and custom curve was absolutely required. Thankfully that board saves the curve profiles separate for the main bios so if u have to flash or reset it it keeps it and even export to usb !

I've always wished I could set the fan curve for case fans by gpu temperature.

Just get a pc blower and blow it out once every couple of months to keep it fresh. I run no fan filters, they add noise, they cost airflow, they cause higher temps. Clean it!

@@jondonnelly4831 I do that regularly but what I didn't notice was in-take v exhaust balance and I just finished setting it and it is cooling much better than before. I put in-take at 75% and exhaust at 60%. I'm still working on the exact numbers, but this gives an important insight about how to keep system cool with a little tweak. Thanks to Jay.

@@IndianGamer001 Yes!! well said...

@@mikem9536 that's what happening and with the help of this video I am able to resolve it by setting neutral pressure.

Postive pressure. No dust issues.

It shouldn't take you 30 years to build a pc bro

​@@badabing8152I bet it's the coolest PC ever

@@badabing8152 he is learning.

​@@RainyFoxUwUits truly best. There is one person who has been taking care of his PC for 30 years.

I build the first computer for the nazis.

You could say your components will come to a sticky end 😊! Greets from New Zealand 🍻

Noticing this.. been vaping in my room the past couple of years. Noticed this molasses like stuff on the fans blades during quarterly clean up.. inside still looks mint though.

@@SupraSav that’s from your bong bruh

I like to call vape pens, douche flutes.

@@rhoadsy this comment screams boomer lmao

Same for the OCTO. Aquasuite and it's Playgound and PID controls is just a league beyond anything else. It's one of those things that once you've used it there's just no way back.

I went with an aio for the Intel build I did last fall. I'm re-housing everything into a slightly larger case (NR200 from Dan A4 H2O) and going back to air cooled. I'm a trucker by trade, and the aio just had me nervous as hell. The reduced airflow in the truck made passively cooled components run warmer, and I've managed to kill my boot drive (Samsung EVO 970 NVMe M.2 or whatever number) probably from the ambient temps being too high in that case. I'm going back to air cooling and even going with a bigger case than I'd prefer just to make it happen (and hopefully not kill any more components).

@@Just_Call_Me_Tim can just use a torrent nano, that single 180 gives insane positive airflow. Compact torrent is my recommendation tho as its more foolproof for upgrades.

"but if something needs to be worked on, it seems that air cooled systems are easier." My experience has been the exact opposite. I have my radiator mounted at the front panel, which is mesh. The only thing on my motherboard is the contact plate and the liquid housing overit, everything else is open for me to work on. So much easier than a massive air-cooler like an NH-D15. I don't even have to remove the contact plate to clean out the radiator.

Good topics. I've got a big dual tower air cooler but the weight Hanging off the mobo makes me a little uneasy. The problem is, air coolers never go bad and fans can be replaced in 15 minutes. AIO are awesome but knowing they eventually run low on fluid bothers me. Plus more points of failure.

I like and have run both but last build went with a Noctua nh-12a which is a twin tower but not as massive as the D15 and has good ram clearance. I worked computer infrastructure at a smelting company that ran 24/7 all of our servers and shop floor computers have air coolers.

Hehe my PSU is upside down. Cuz it suck air from the bottom of the case and blow it backward without affecting case airflow

​@@vladimirlenin4512thanks for repeating the second half of old mates comment. I needed to hear it twice for it to sink into my brain.

Just like with names.

I remember my PC from 2001 with 2cm thick dust everywhere inside. There was no intake fans at all

Good reminder, I will re-attempt water, thought board devices might be an issue. M.2 surprises me, though, I got one in a slot card under the gpu so not exactly in a well ventilated space, smart values are A-ok. Transcend TLC. May I ask, what make/model was yours? Did SMART readings confirm temp spiked?

XD

Thanks for this info dude, got my new fans cooling my rig perfectly and silent as well

For beginners, don’t worry. You’ll figure it out in time.

So whts the slight positive setting for case with 3 front , 2 top and 1 back fan ??

@@harrikirvesniemi9685 only the back one is smaller

Can I ask which pro audio company do you work for? It sounds like and interesting job

Can I use painters tape to fill in the gaps?

@@manuelcastle yes, you can, but you don't want to. besides looking fugly, if you happen to create negative pressure in your case, and seal off any gaps your case has, the only way in for air is via your intake fans, and the only way out is your exhaust fans. problem is, you already take more air out than you take in, because your intake is underperforming, and if pressure in your case gets too low, atmospheric pressure will push back against your exhaust fans more and more, until an equilibrium is created. since your underperforming intake will still suck air in, air in your case keeps moving and cooling, but you waste energy, because your exhaust is capped at the amount of work your intake performs. Now, that energy waste doesn't sound too bad, but it adds up, and additionally, the constant backpressure your exhaust fan needs to work against increases mechanic stress and might cause it to age faster / break sooner. None of this would be catastrophic for your system, but since it just takes a few mouse clicks for rpm curve adjustments and a couple of lines to read about airflow optimization, it would be a shame to not avoid it.

I use Argus monitor for fan curves, it's amazing

Jay uses 3x incense, I think that's overkill, 1x incense is sufficient :P

Did you use anything to test for positive air pressure like a piece of paper? It must have been tedious to optimise.

@@Yengineered it took some time. wish I'd thought about using incense. But, matches and smoking paper work, too. I still tweak the fan curve from time to time...even after 2 years. but yeah. I have slight positive air flow.

yes. Many motherboards can control the speed even for 3 wired fans, which used to run at fixed speeds.

thanks you for this comment I just changed my settings

Yup I like setting my fan curves in the BIOS 100 times better that some of that shitty motherboard software in windows, it has not let me down yet :-)

I've had bad experience tuning it in BIOS, where for example my ASUS board lets me auto tune fans which sets the min fan RPM to 30% for example, but manually tuning it won't let me set the fans as low for some unknown reason and tells me any value below 60% is not valid. Not even BIOS update fixed that.

What kinda case do you use?

Hey man, what software is this?

This. I modded the front fan mount on a Corsair H500 case because the mount blocked like 15-20% of both intake fans' inlets. Given that the case shipped with 200mm fans, having a mounting plate that supports 120 and 240mm fans was pretty ridiculous. Switched to Fractal Torrent full tower for my Threadripper 3960 air-cooled CPU build. Sorted now.

I have the fractal torrent for almost 1 year now. It's a very good choice, if you go for an air cooled system. It has the top of the case closed off and positive pressure. This means you will have very little dust build up.

@@TheRobstar1983 they don't sell it here in Argentina, and buying it overseas is very expensive... I was thinking about getting "matrexx 40" and add 2x140mm or 3x120mm to the front along the 120mm rear fan, since it's the best thing I could find for a thight budget

That's what GPU supports are for, my friend

I really like motherboards that have a fan smoothing profile. Now that CPUs are boosting so aggressively, my old computer would go "Moo" every few minutes because it didn't have a fan smoothing profile. My newest build has it, and it's quiet throughout normal usage and only rams up when it's under heavy load. The heatsink can absorb the thermal spikes pretty effectively.

@@YengineeredThis is why I have my fans step up in 12 second intervals (the lowest amount of time on my chassis fans).

I hear you man. The Arctic P12's are very good fans for value but the resonance is horrible when using smooth curve and it keeps changing the rpm. So step speed is a must to get some peace of mind - something like 700rpm on idle up to 50C CPU temp and then step up to like 1200rpm from there and stay there up to 70C. Obviously it also depens on the specific CPU used and what are thats CPU temps unders certain scenarios. But generally with arctics the default smooth curve sucks.

@@brudel001 do you have a link to a good video on how to do this? I have five P12 fans in a Deepcool CH510 digital mesh with an Asrock B650E + Ryzen 7600X

@@oscargranath93 hey, first of all gongrats on having Ryzen 7'th series 😁 Unfortunately I don't have link to the video with specific tutorial. Basically with ASrock you should have in bios something like FAN-tastic tuning tab where you can do the setup - if you search the google you can find the image. So in that menu on the bottom horizontally are temps and left side vertical is fan percentage. At the top theres the drop down menu where you can select what fans you are wanna tweak - default is CPU so you should select something like SYSFAN1 or whatever you have the casefans connected to. Easiest would be if you have arctic PST fans so you can daisy chain the fans together and just use one fan header on the motherboard and alter all the fans together. Otherwise your case might have a fanhub or you can use splitter cables. As for specific settings it depends on your CPU cooler and behaviour - what are the usual idle temps - what are the gaming temps. I have an Intel 12700K that idles around 25C and when gaming it goes allmost to 60C. So my setup for arctic casefans is that on 20/30/40/50C its 35% of fanspeed. Then at 50/60/70C its 60% of fanspeed. And up from that its a smooth curve since the fans would be so loud anyway that it doesn't matter anymore but mine never reaches that so its unimportant. So the 35% is for desktop usage, surfing, watching videos etc. The latter is for gaming or other heavy usage. One thing that I would say is that I would use more fans in that case - either 3 intakes and 3 exhaust or 4 and 4. And what I would suggest to everyone is to use rear exhaust fan even if using top AIO because rear exhaust is the main fan to pull awat the heat generated by backside of the high end graphics cards. Also if possible use vertical mount for the GPU - its should lower GPU temps around 3-5C. It may not sound much but since GPU's are hot anyway it just might be the difference if the GPU ramps up the fans even higher under load or not.

m³/h is the SI unit for volumetric flow rate so as official as it gets. Last time I checked Noctua uses it, not sure about others.

There's also the scaled Litres per second. 36 m3/h is 10l/s ≈ 21.1888 CFM

@@v1nd1c4r3 Every fan I've ever seen uses CFM. I just put a PC together now. Everything was CFM.

As soon as you add WCing into the equation the subject becomes more divisive. If you want the coolest air (room ambient) to blow through your radiator then warm air will enter the case via the radiator (unless its an external to external rad or in a separate chamber). If you want the warm air to be exhausted out from the radiator then it will be using warmer case ambient air to remove the heat via the rad.

@@superflyguy4488 What is WCing?

@@rawj1213 WC = water cooling.

@@rawj1213 👀

If you're using water-cooled cpu and air-cooled gpu, it's better for overall temps (when gaming) to have the aio as exhaust rather than intake. Sure the cpu will be a bit warmer, but the gpu will be several degrees higher than the other way around.

I am rather curious how a gpu with exhaust fans facing downwards vs a vertical mounted bracket gpu with fans facing outward affects the wall/negative airflow below?

@@centurion8446 Are you sure those fans are exhaust fans?

😅.. not gunna lie I stopped watching after I found this ...thanks for the extra 10mins to go do thia

Can you elaborate please ? I don't really understand where the acrilic panel is situated .

@@Mr.Fall1n1 Flush with the GPU shroud, just below where the GPU exhausts. I cut a rectangle piece of cardboard the size of a horizontal cross section of my case interior, then cut my GPU's shape out of that. Remade it in acrylic after.

@@Mr.Fall1n1 gotta have sufficient intake below that plane for me to recommend this though. Your GPU can probably out flow 1 120 at low rpm. Might be worth playing around with some cardboard.

And yet metric computer fan specs seem to use m^3/hour. Ugh.

Linus bought one and it didn't work well for what they wanted to show. A good one is ridiculously expensive and he will be making it part of Labs when they are set up for it.

Those turbulent flow would distribute the smoke so well, you just can't see the flow that easily. Heck, even Gamer Nexus use contraption and negative filter just to see where the flow goes on RTX cooling testing

A crayon would be good too. Just kidding.. well not that much XD. Markers would be fine to draw the pathing. Or use a CAD!

@@olandersnake Agreed, the pricing most likely will be insane.. I wonder what does Mr. Matt Lee use for his airflow visuals. He`s got a very thick and very visible smoke in his videos

Black case, white smoke, black light case lighting. Sounds like it’d be fun.

Yeah with glass panel it seems like you'd want the rear fan to be intake and exhaust out the top.

You obviously cared enough to dedicate a whole comment about it.

The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

Ha ha ha 53rd

How sad must your life be to get excited by having the first comment on a youtube video.

@@enthusiasticpaunch Actually, mice doesn't like cheese at all 🤓

Vaping is worse than cigarettes

Lol exactly.. I'm more worried about vaping near my tower than my health..priorities:P

​@@SrMoraisare you saying vaping is worse than cigarettes for your own health, or for your PC?

@@anonymoose2474 For your health

Nice,

2/3 exhausts 2 outtake

Thats why you shouldnt put your desk airtight to the wall. Let the exhaust of the PC approxiamately 20cm away from the wall, and there will be no problem. Fresh cold air is sucked in in the front, blown out in the back. There it "collects" a little bit, but can escape between wall and desk. An even if this is just 2cm wide, its accross the whole lenght of your desk, so its a real big hole at all.

I made a cheap "air hockey" table top for my stand beside my desk with pegboard replacing the top surface, and a plug in fan inside. Replacing parts of cabinet walls with cheap pegboard could probably help out a ton of ppl.

My friend used to get really high temps after a couple hours of gaming, we couldn't figure out why, did hours of troubleshooting over discord, only to find out his pc was in a closed cabinet lol

@@squidwardo7074 😂😂😂

As one dude named Paul says: KEEP. PC. OFF. FLOOR!!! Seriously, put it sideways under the monitor like the old times even, but for the love of God don't put it on the ground.