Has this tip helped you? Here is a free way to help me. Here is my Amazon influencer page that has many of the parts I've used in videos and some parts that friends have used. www.amazon.com/shop/poweraddicts-fixjeepscom-jeepcarandmotorcycletips?ref=ac_inf_hm_vp . By purchasing through this Amazon page you help me get a small commission of the sale and you do not get charged a cent more. Keep checking back because I update the Amazon page often. Thanks for your support!

While I appreciate your love of all things Jeep, your enthusiasm, expertise and good natured attitude, I above all appreciate the lack of profanity in your videos. It's refreshing and rare.

On a separate topic. I also have a good fix for the plastic, papery circuit board that runs your cluster gauge that I discovered about 10yrs ago. I have had my jeep over 20yrs now, she is my 1st & only car & I'm always fixing things I know I can do myself to save $. From time to time my jeep, as I sure many others do, mine leaks from under the dash & when it does it's usually my indicator that it's time to redo the window or cowl seal. Redoing either of these seals is a pain (at least for me) so I tend to just deal with a small leak until it become s a big one. Anyway, if you have ever had water leak behind your dash it can sometimes effect the circuit board & you'll end up having gauge lights go out or the gauges will stop working altogether. I have found that the water ends up eroding areas of the copper connection lines that run through the plastic board. Since I was never able nor have yet to find a replacement circuit board for the speedometer & odometer I thought my only other choice was having to buy a whole new gauge cluster. Not wanting to put out the $ I started thinking about how I could fix it on my own & that's when I got the bright idea that I could use copper tape, like the kind they use when doing stained glass. Gotta love art class... but it turns out this wasn't a good idea, it didn't end up working so I called the company from whom I got the tape. When I called I spoke to a very lovely & very helpful gentleman who told me that it probably didn't work because the glue used on the tape wasn't conductive. This gentleman then suggested that I try a liquid silver pen, so I did & it worked great! I use a little rubbing alcohol to clean up & remove some of the erosion & green tarnish from the broken copper lines & then start drawing new connections. The pen is call circuit writer & you can get it online or I get mine from radio shack for around $20.00. I have recently seen a replacement circuit board for the oil, temp, 4wheel & fuel gauge cluster but still nothing for the speedometer or odometer. With that said.... I hope this comes in handy for you or someone else.

Thanks for sharing this, I found it to be quite thorough and super helpful! While I was able to replace the heater core on my 1990 Wrangler by following this video, you certainly make it look easier than it was for me. One recommendation for future videos -- when you pause the camera to do something, it would be helpful if you provided more context on how much time it took. Just an idea. Thanks again for a great video!!

Excellent video, and I second those thanking you for keeping it Rated G. One thing that helped me was popping the three antenna screws and sliding the antenna mount out of the fender. That little stem from the antenna will hang the heater box.

I was getting ready to rip the dash out of my '95 Wrangler when I found this video. Saved a ton of work. Thanks! Also thought I'd mention that you can get to all four nuts on the firewall under the hood without removing the battery tray. The three high nuts are in plain sight. The fourth nut comes off with a 7/16" socket and a six-inch extension. Well, at least in theory. Mine sheared off the same as Power Addicts's. Regards!

Once again another detailed video to help me further improve my Jeep. Thanks man!

Because of you I took the challenge. I am a novice when it comes to being a mechanic. Not only did I successfully put in the part but had to make a small modification by enlarging the hole. I can't thank you enough. Keep the videos coming!!!

I tried to replace my leaky heater core a while back ago but couldn't manage to remove the whole blower assembly since my YJ has AC on it. Thanks to your video, I got my confidence back in order to, hopefully, fully tackle this repair. Thanks for all the attention to detail and authenticity. It certainly did not go unnoticed! Nice diver plate btw!

Great video. I have an antifreeze leak coming from my heater core and this video was great at showing me what I'm getting myself into.

Just used your video to replace my heater core in 89 YJ I bought new. I'm hearing impaired so I couldn't hear what you said, but the video was plenty. Thanks

Watched your video last night, first time to do the job took me just over 3 hours start to finish. Every bit of your video was exactly on point. There were only 2 things different with my replacement I can across, I removed the radio panel to get the defrost boot on (very easy with it out), and I have a 4.0 and the far right bolt behind the valve cover was hard to get a hand on. I had to use a 1/4” drive deep well socket (put a dab of permeated in the socket), a swivel and long extension to get it off and back on. And you were right the core plate is not drilled correctly. I used 1 bolt as you did. Someone mentioned the core mount is adjustable, it is not, it is welded to the top tank. Mine did not come with the the foam cushion, but I was able to peel it off and reuse it.

Thank you sir!! I replaced my leaking heater core today. Great instructions, really appreciate the video. Made me a lot more confident going in. Looking forward to following your directions again on something else. Keep making them.

Awesome Vid - Out here in CA they want 300.00 to do the job. Forget that you just saved me 300 bucks!! :) Says 2.2 book hours, prob done in an hours for a skilled guy. This vid is a kill shot - appreciate it brother Jeeper!

Nicely presented, now I’m more confident I can do this. thank you

Nice video. I don't see any vids that have good details. Thanks.

Like the video, helped a lot. I just did mine without removing the battery or box. Saved a little time.

Thank you for posting this!! I just replaced my heater core and blower motor by myself following your video!! Pretty sure I need to replace my thermostat so I’ll be following that video as well.

My blower motor still kicks ass so I will leave it, but the core must go. Thanks for the video to give me confidence to do it myself..

I watched this video three or four times before going about this repair, most definitely on the money as explained. The only things I would add are, since I'm rebuilding an '88 Wrangler yj, there's a couple things to watch for. 1. The new blower motor WILL NOT fit in the same hole as the OEM. You will need to do quite a bit of trimming. I will back fill with some RTV against the motor housing. 2. The new heater core did not come with the mounting frame, no big deal, just squash it in there. 3. Make sure all the flapper doors are aligned before reassembly of the boix. It's called out well in the video but I can't overstate this enough. 4. If at all possible, you will do better with a second set of hands during installment of the box. Someone has to be on the firewall starting the nuts as the bolts come through. 5. My battery tray was rusted so I spent a minute with a wire wheel and some rubberized paint. Makes a huge difference under the hood. Anyway, great video, I've watched a couple of yours to help me with a few things. Appreciate ya!

Thanks this was a great help. The higher SCFM Chevy?GM blower was $70 cheaper than the Jeep replacement.

Looks really easy watching you do it

Absolutely awesome video! Thanks! Who would give this a thumbs down?

Nice video. Good info. Thankd

awesome video...just what i needed...

Awesome video man. Help so much

Hello, great video! My 92 Sahara has same no heat fan etc BUT AC still works, blows cool air... Does AC have a diff fan motor?

Just finished mine video help alot

Hey does it matter which heater hose goes in the top and bottom of the core?

I change my heater core, and blend doors, and thermostat, and I still not hot, any ideas, the only think I can think of is the new heater core is bad, any ideas.

I have a 1994 wrangler. My blower is one in closed pc. It must be a different application? Help?

eeh, would do the two screw option with the existing core hole location, small pickles. Nice vid brother man, :)

Thanks a bunch! I found it a big help to pull out the passenger seat so that I didn't have to "yoga master" my old ass under the dash.

I am thinking of looking into cutting a square access panel in the firewall, so the blower can be replaced easily. I am already working on making the core removable from the front.

How to replace the emergency break cable vidio??? (front cable to pedal)

What part of the video did you remove the blower wire? Another KZfaq showed in removed prior to pulling out the box….this one looks like mine, no visible wire on the engine side.

Aluminum sucks. It's worth finding copper whenever possible. I have saved my radiator several times over being able to solder it (no plastic tanks either!). You can't solder aluminum. It's not as big of a deal with the heater core, but still could save you some money if you have to fix it. I also put an electric switch on my heater. having it constantly heating in the summer can suck. the flaps don't stop all of that heat.

Can you leave the blower motor in place, and just remove the heater core ?

What is the number of the factory blower motor you purchased?

do i need to go through that whole process with the tubes and draining the antifreeze if i just want to replace the blower motor?

Probably dumb thought from barely a shade tree mechanic but...if the heater core is full blown leaking into the cab I’m betting I don’t want flush the core with the garden hose. Right? Great video!

I watched this awhile ago because I am getting ready to do a heater box swap/new core, fan etc. and wanted to ask you if installing the chevy 70's truck blower motor/fan would give a lot more air push? I have been restoring my YJ and have never used the heater yet so I don't know how good/bad the blower fans are. If the chevy fans are a lot more powerful I'd like to install one while i'm doing the swap. I believe all I have to do is make the firewall hole larger correct? And maybe make new fan mounting holes. Any help would be great and always a high thumbs-up for your vids...I too appreciated the no-cussing vids and your easy to follow instructions/help. You're tops in my book!

Thank you You help me

Can I cancel the heater core unit completely and not effect my air condition because I live in extremely hot area and don't need more heat 😰

The heater core bracket is adjustable

replacing my 95 yj heater core but I have AC also wondering if I have to disconnect the AC vents and lines

I got a question: A couple of years ago my temperature gauge stopped working inside my jeep( yj 1991) so my mechanic created an alternative way of giving me a temperature gauge inside . He set up a temperature gauge on the bottom of the dash like you have in the video but he also told me I will no longer have a heater in my car . He hooked some adoptor sensors to my thermostat inside the engine area and ran the wiring along the valve cover all the way inside to the gauge . The gauge works fine but I no longer have hot air to keep warm in the winter. I'm moving Nth in a little while . How can I get some hot air in my jeep during winter ?? I'm gonna freeze in there

When you use switch your fan panel from defroster to heat does your Jeep have heat blow through your windshield vent and floor vents or just floor vents?

My YJ blows air but it’s not hot. Does that mean the heater core needs replacement only?

I've been reading on some forums that the PM-102 will not fit with a later YJ models. I went on Autozone's website and it says that the PM-102 blower motor only fits up to 1990 jeep wrangler. I really would like to upgrade to a better blower motor but I don't want to buy the PM-102 if it doesn't fit my 1995 YJ. Can you shed some light on this for me? Can I actually get this upgrade?

Thanks man!

Would it be better to take the copper heater core to a radiator shop have them boil it out and fix the leak and get 10 plus more years out of it / because they say the aluminum last only a year or 2 or 3 if your lucky / the car wizard video shows the customer wants him to cut the fire wall the size of the heater core and take it out from there / then replace with new core and put a plate held on by screws over the cut out and seal it up and your done / it's a little more work the first time but e/z to replace after that no /yes / have you seen the video ? check it out

Why. Not get the old heater core leak fixed that new one looked cheesey PS love your videos great info

I'm trying to find the part number for that aluminum heater core you got. Please let me know, I'm looking for the EXACT same part you have in the video.

Hope I don't sound stupid by saying this... but instead of pulling out the garden hose & air compressor why not just get a bag of cotton balls & shove them down the heater core's in/out flow pipes, or even paper towels. I would put as many as I could fit in each pipe this way they will absorb the antifreeze & stop any leaking.... just seems easier then hassling with the other stuff.

perfect

I have no heater core or fan.......gonna be a cold winter

put corks in the lines .