The most important thing you need to know about a bushcraft knife is how to use it. Practice makes perfect and learning how to get the best out of your knife is far more important than how fancy it is. Mors Kochanski and Cody Lundin could do more with a Mora #1 than most folks can with a $700 custom knife.

I'd add the Bark River Bushcrafter original thickness or light (LT) version in A-2 or in a supper steel to this list.

Nice video John. I've also really enjoyed using the Lars Falt Casstrom knife, and of course the Moras. Your custom model looks fantastic!

I bought a Mora a few years ago and to be honest it’s one of my favorite knives ever. It is so capable and way stronger than it looks or feels. I have many others worth much more and it is still always in my pack.

Honest, no nonsense review 👍🏻

Great video, thanx! (Well great channel in general!) Cheers from a fellow outdoors lover / knife enthusiast youtuber from a village of Fiskars, Finland!

Extended tangs on knives are for: prying, scraping tinder, and using a ferro rod without exposing the blade.

Beautiful and serious knives you presented us, proper tools. I have no knowledge of knives but I can give you my experiences with the mora I have in my possession. I find the anatomy of his grip unparalleled. I used it all summer in an orchard I maintain. I pruned, made pointed stakes for supports, cut many tangles of twine, cut irrigation hoses, weeded, lined it up in the ground for many days sometimes in the case and without it. No rust at all, no damage to the handle but the edge was jagged. This is mainly due to the Nordic sharpening but also to the contact with the soil. I turned the scandi into micro-convex with sandpaper and the problem was solved.

Hard to beat Steve’s work love his knives

BPS knives, a Ukrainian company, makes a couple of excellent bushcraft knives with full tangs, wood handles and beautifully made leather sheaths, all for about the price of a lower end Mora (

A stainless steel version of your Wildway Bushcraft knife would be interesting. Maybe in AEB-L or in Sandvik 14C28N. I agree with you that 4’’ is enough. I have bigger knives but it’s simply because they are fun to use. Nothing beats a Puukko, an axe and a saw. I also have my share of bushcraft knives and I agree that Scandinavian grind is the best for carving but I also love a full convex with a thin edge: not as good for carving but better at other tasks and with a better edge control for me. Though, I will be honest, a good convex grind is really tough to find while a good scandi is quite common. My solution is to have two knives on me (and probably more in my backpack) 😉. But like you said, at the end, they all do the same thing, they cut. That’s why the best knife is the sharp one.

I love my Lars fault, had it four years now. It really comes down to preferences

The last one, made by field&steel, it gotta be top notch!

No.10 Swedish Forest Knife, Curly birch, Stainless €165

What you describe is a 'scandi to zero' or 'full scandi' and it's sharp but the edge is weak. Great for 'biting' into soft wood but the edge can easily roll on you trying harder woods. I agree that for a 'small camp knife' a blade length of around 10 cm (don't know why you use inches) is a good size. Puukko just means 'knife' in Finish and is referring to the fixed blade knife for EDC they use. Blade lengths vary from some 6 cm all the way up to maybe 14 cm. Bigger than that and it quickly becomes a Leuku with a different blade shape and more suited for (light) chopping. Up north in winter conditions you don't wanna take your gloves off to open a pocket knife and for this reason most Puukko and Leuku style knives have a (partial or full length) stick tang. If you do want the Puukko style blade but a full tang (although skeletonized) I suggest the Brisa Trapper. I agree that if you want to keep the scandi to zero edge you need a flat surface and stable underground so good for home sharpening but who brings a set of water stones with them in the bush? For this reason many scandi grinds actually were given a small secondary bevel. The sheath of the Mora Companion is not ambidextrous and you did put the knife back in the wrong way. Orange is a good color but also a natural color in fall. Pink and Blue are the non natural colors on land. Also the tang goes 3/4 into the handle and not 1/2 way. You can choose between carbon steel and stainless, many different colors and the normal Companion or the thicker Companion HD. But they are good knives. If available a cheaper option would be the Hultafors GK or the Hultafors knives in general. The Condor Terrasaur (designed by Joe Flowers) is actually a protruding stick tang. It still has the overmolded handle. With this extended pommel you can crush or scrape even without taking the knife out of the sheath. Crushing nuts or plant stems to separate the fibers, scraping birch bark to fluff it up so it will take the spark easier. A very good and well thought out knife that also comes in coyote, black and green but only in 1095 carbon steel so no stainless option. I met David (founder and CEO of Casström knives) at a bushcraft gathering. Besides being a really nice guy he knows all about knives, maintenance and sharpening. There were maybe 3 or 4 more knife stands just selling knives, but David was constantly giving free workshops and lectures about knives. Lars Fält is a Swedish Army survival instructor. The #10 bushcraft knife also comes with micarta handle scales. You can't go wrong with a Casström knife. The Wildway bushcraft knife looks very interesting. Really like the blade and handle shape. The price not so much but I understand for a handmade knife. I'm a big fan of G10 and Kydex but since I'm also basically up or around water a lot I prefer a stainless steel. Sure a patina (basically surface rust) does give some protection but the part that will rust easily is the thin part being the edge, so it dulls quicker and needs more field maintenance and sharpening. In general a good video and you can't go wrong with any of the knives presented. So I subscribed.

Brother, what's the 3mm thick knife you said in the end, where I can find one please??

You know it’s funny how nowadays survival knives have become bushcarft knives. Big heavy knives have been labeled survival when most don’t do anything you need to survive. The companies have everyone convinced they need edge retention. When in truth a outdoor knife needs toughness more then edge retention. People are so brain washed or afraid to admit they spent to much. I’ve had them say these high hardness steels are easy to sharpen if you know what your doing. I say really what don’t I know they go on you need diamond stones. It never crosses there mind that is the problem I’m talking about. I prefer a steel you can sharpen with anything reasonable. Chips in a super steel are next to impossible to fix in field. I also believe a survival knife is a knife you always carry. Not the one you hang on the wall only to use when your doing certain things. Survival situations never happen when you expect. I’m a fan of Garberg. Love it but I also love the BPS adventurer. My favorite always on me Utica Utica-n2. It is the knife nobody knows about. It’s like the izula 2 made better. Really can’t ask for better then the three I listed. I’m a poor disabled vet will a lifetime of outdoor experience. My kit is the three knives sometimes a machete usually 12in coldsteel or Ontario, then a folding saw,a corona. With those things anything is possible. A metal match and a metal water bottle with a tarp and some cordage I can survive anywhere. One thing many instructors overlook is dressing for your adventure. Life saving starts in your bedroom. Don’t know why that’s always overlooked. Im seeing a huge separation from hikers/ultra lite backpackers from what we now call bushcarfters or survivalist. I see many backpackers giving horrible advice to save( Weight) Example: one said “nobody needs a knife and compass”. Another “why carry a map down load a app”. Then you read experienced hiker lost or found dead with just a pack and a survival blanket. They didn’t know how to use. The one with the blanket had matches but couldn’t start a fire. It was a mother an daughter on a day hike. It’s unbelievable the lack of basic skills. They believe walking a trail and sleeping in a tent is survival. Maybe it’s bigger here in America because of the big trails. Also many incidents are not in the news because it makes the tourists not want to spend money. I know this is way off your knife video but I was listening to you talk about instructors. So I wonder what your take and is it also happening in your country? In fact a few nights ago a guy and his dog were rescued by helicopter. Will say in this guys favor that place is very dangerous at night he did the right thing. Some learning to prevent or what to do when unexpected happen has been labeled. With many acting like we are preparing for war. Some act like we are crazy wilderness types. I really don’t get this fast March to stupidity!

Beautiful selection. When it comes to UK custom knives I suggest JACKLORE. The man is a saint and their products are from heaven. 🔪 Keep it up

Word of advice, face the light so the background is not lit up and you're dark.

I got a pancake sheath with my bravo 1. I have to be honest the sheath is an abomination. It took forever to get it to form fit. A coworker of mine has 3 bark river knives .One of his knives failed in normal use and chipped, when he contacted their costumer service the lady was less than helpful. Eventually he got them to honor their warranty and they resharpened his knife. He said it looks like shit and is probably the last one he’ll get from them.

Best knife for rainforests?

Yorkshire boisssssss

Those are all camp knifes for the most part not bushcraft

14:37 💯 true words ❤️🫡 That what I believe. Get out & have fun practice your skill that’s soothing.