Good stuff for sure. One thing I do differently is - after I've loaded the powder in a case, I remove the funnel, and then place a projectile into the case mouth upside down. Then I never miss an empty case. The first 10 or 15 rounds are usually not a problem with forgetfulness. but by the end of a 50-case process, I can get into day-dreaming or get distracted.

Absolutely great video series that will help a ton of reloaders! Thank you for making such quality products. 👍🏼

This is a service to the precision rifle community. Describing your personal reloading process to us from the armorers workshop that you’ve created is awesome. Thank you Area 419!!!

Just set up my Zero press. I have been reloading for years with an RCBS rock chucker. I cannot believe the repeatability of the Zero press, it's amazing and in a class like no other. Everything I have been using for years seems like child's play next to this thing. Area 419 keep inventing and I will keep buying. Your products are amazing

My order of operations is, Dry tumble, resize and trim, dry tumble to remove case lube, prime, charge, seat.

Excellent. I haven't read all of the comments, but the viewer should take note that factory chambers are often throated extremely long. In some cases, touching the lands may result in an over mag length round. In other cases you may not reach the lands at all.

Great informational video! Love your reloading products!

Excellent video, good work guys! Really easy to follow, relevant and not at all condescending. For my 6BR match ammo, I personally: - Deprime cases before dry tumbling with a hand tool - Use imperial sizing wax for full length sizing in the Zero press, have had some issues with spray on lube - Use an expander mandrel to reset neck tension - Use an arbor press with force pack for seating to get a better feel of seating anomalies - Wipe down everything afterwards

Thank you Craig. Made me rethink wet tumbling as my ocd won’t let cases stay dirty more than a day.lol. I hand polish all mine with brasso but only have Lyman sonic for insides. Time doesn’t matter to me all that does is the best cartridge I can produce period. Love my hellfire on dd5v3..keeps me on target for follow ups and opens my sinuses all at same time..😉matt in ky

Great video , thanks for sharing your process with your high end tools . I have been loading for 50 years. Tools have come a long way since I started. I can only put some of these on my wish list after I win the lottery lol

Saw a video with your products. Had to check you out. I thought your comments on wet tumbling were spot on. Always had my doubts on the pins being too harsh. I use Flitz media prep in my tumbler. Their whole line of products work great. Again glad I found you . Great video. Thanks!

I've cleaned brass both ways. The steel pins are a pain especially when 2 get lodged in the flash hole but corn cob media does the same thing. Then I started cleaning before decapping and that was fine both ways. I've never seen or experienced what you're talking about at the case mouth with wet tumbling but I've never let it run more than 3 hours. Problem with the cases is after you size them, you have to clean again to get the lube off. For awhile I'd just lay the cases out and spray with carb or brake cleaner which works to get the lube off after sizing but just costs more money. Most of the time I clean the neck with 0000 stainless steel before sizing but that doesn't work as well as tumbling a few hours. What I do like about wet tumbling is it cleans the inside of the brass and neck where media doesn't seem to I know your video is regarding competition shooting but in my experience, with many of my hunting rifles, both factory and custom, I don't need to FL size. I will chamber every fired case and nearly 100% of the time, they go in just as easy as they did before firing. Unfortunately, many people will FL size cases like this and are bumping the shoulder back 0.002 even more when it's not even needed - thus, all of those cases only get neck sized with a bushing. I've been testing my sizing process using neck sizing only with a bushing and no expander of any type, and also doing that with a slightly tighter bushing followed by using a turning mandrel inside the neck. So far I've noticed no difference in handload neck tension consistency. This is with once fired brass or more than one firing. In the event a fired case is on the stiff side when chambering, I will FL size and I keep those separate. Again, this is only for my hunting rifles. I do have a PRS rifle in 6.5PRC but so far haven't needed to FL size any fired cases in it and the Lapua brass has been fine neck sizing only up to 2 firings each. At this point, for me, only time I have any use for all the turning mandrels I recently bought is on new brass. I'll neck size everything with a bushing, no expander, then use the turning mandrel

Same things I’ve found also on brass markings…on outside of cases it smears in my dies. Have 2 hornady 6.5prc with 22 magnum charges through em and still look great. Pockets of course loose but they both touch every time fired. Wish I could come visit and meet you guys someday brother. Y’all are and inspiration to a blue collar man with big dreams.

Great video. Thanks

Great video guys!

Hi Craig, how's it going? 1st off I want to thank Jon for creating Area419. The staff is super friendly and knowledgeable. I love using your quality made tools and products, I have a few 😂. I refer friends and club members to your web site. As far as another tip for reloading. I like to decap and clean the primer pockets, get rid of the carbon before I tumble the brass. This eliminates that crunchy feeling when priming on the CPS. This also allows the primer to be fully seated against the flash hole. Just another step for PRS prep lol.. Using the Zero press along with the CPS are my 2 favorite steps when reloading. Thank you for making our hobby more enjoyable 😊 Have a great one... Nick

I like to bulk towel wipe and blow off the dust with compressed air after initial tumbling. I started this after a die developed grooves in the body that may have been attributed to contamination in the media. This also gives me the opportunity to clear any media out of the primer pocket. I will also tumble/wipe/blow again after sizing to clean off the lube residue. Wearing gloves when handling the brass and finished cartridges is also helpful especially if it is intended for longer term storage. Another step, maybe I missed it but... I will clean the primer pocket as part of the brass prep process.

Nice video! I hope beginners don't feel pressured to spend $5K on their first reloading setup to recreate the awesome setup Area419 has here.

I always like to tumble after sizing to remove the lubricant. Thanks for sharing your process!

Hej! Good video and nice products. Im on the budget side with the press. And have upgrade others. I woild like to have a progressive and or a multi tool press like the Zero. Less time you touch the brass = more range time 😊 One thing that I do aftrer priming. I aet the primed case with primer faced up. Then I know all are primed. Then the charge is ready I Flip one case, funnel it, pour powder, remove funnel and plant the bullet. And reapet. This way I know that every case is ready for seating.

Love that stack of alpha in background also…my choice also and love there nice box you get. Wish they’d do 6.5prc as I load/shoot slot of with some amazing performance and wow moments when hyper fast bullets impact targets that react to them.

Good video

I used to have concentricity issues. I started seating my projectile 1/4 of the way, pull it out and spin it a 1/4 turn, pull it out and spin it another 1/4 turn, pull it out 1 more time and sent it home with a full stroke of the press handle. Sold my concentricity machine.

Regarding the cleaning - I have gotten to where I only wet tumble with some dish soap and a dash of citric acid. No pins. I can not tell a single difference in cleanliness, yet I don't have to deal with getting the pins out of the cases. And to help me with forgetting to turn it off, I use one of the outlet timers I use for the Christmas lights. 15-30 minutes (depending if it was shot with a silencer or not) with some hot water, a squirt of dish soap, and a 9mm case of citric acid and they're sparkly clean. Then I just rinse them off with the hose and toss them in the air dryer. I just got to where I was scared of the lead dust in the dry tumbling. With the water, I pour it out through some charcoal to hopefully filter out some of the lead and I am not worried about breathing it in. Just my method.

After sizing I like to to give the brass another quick tumble to get the lube off in case the spray on line I use could contaminate the powder. Also I typically hit the necks with graphite prior to bullet seating but I don’t know if that does anything yet as I haven’t tested with or without.

Good lord some peepells comments are too caustic. This was a well done video,thanks guys.

Nice video. I liked how you tried to keep things simplified. I still wet tumble my brass, but found that I could reduce my time way down (15 minutes) and not have the brass issue.

I want to do this. But geez, the time and patience needed is crazy..

I sold med devices for a long time. You guys are like the Arthrex of reloading equipment companies.

Great video. Keep up the good work. I am wondering if y'all would make a smaller portable 4 station turret press with 1 and 1/4" holes, so that the Hornady LNL quick change die bushings could be implemented?.

I lube the neck before loading the bullet. I use grafite

I use chips instead of pins to wet tumble, never had any issues with media getting stuck.

Question on neck tension…..Understand that neck sizing is no longer a preferred practice for many, but do you ever run expander mandrills for consistent neck tension? Guessing no since it was not included in this video? If not, do you just go with the full body resize and seat the bullet at whatever neck tension is given by the full length die? Great video and thanks so much

An excellent video. Is ‘piece of brass’ now the cumbersome way of saying ‘case’?

Hey Craig & Area 419. GREAT video. Question: do you bother cleaning brand new (Peterson) brass? Same question with annealing. My Peterson brass came clean, in cases, and annealed. Thanks!

Please explain the concept for Crimping. I know there are a few different steps when shooting semi automatic as to bolt action. I shoot only semi automatic at this time.

great

What about cleaning the primer pockets ?

Realy nice way. The really nice way costs a really expensive price

First of all what an excellent video. Thankyou for this wonderful resource. I was just curious. With all of that one shot lube you used during the sizing process. What stops your powder from sticking to the residual lube on the inside of the neck? and is it a problem if you do have powder stuck to the inside of the neck? I think im selling my wet tumbler... general consensus is dry is better, even though i have grown to love my shiny brass haha.

After doing all the resizing of the case, I would anneal it again before handloading.

I have been told that you should brush the necks if you anneal. Do you have thoughts on that?

Just started reloading for hunting (whitetail). The Zero looks great but do I need it or is this for precision competition guys?

Do you run your brass through a decapping die to remove spent primers before cleaning, or do you do it in the resizing die after cleaning and annealing?

Anyone know what rifle racks they have in the BG?

I’d like to add something about when you mentioned stainless wet tumbling peens the brass yes it does but the peening goes away after you trim your brass . Second of all if you have pins getting stuck in your necks , you are using the wrong size pins . I been doing this process for 6 years now and not once in the 6 years have I ever had a stuck pin . Run a q-tip into your freshly dry tumbled brass , I assure you that you will find a light powder inside your brass even on the surface . Eventually your media will be contaminated ,the powder will consist of dry media and carbon . That contaminated powder is not good for your annealing machine and your nice expensive sizing dies and yes it will make its way into your sizing dies . Also after running hundreds into your annealing machine some will make its way in there . When you find a good system with stainless tumbling it’s the best way to go . One more thing the carbon build up inside your brass casing on firing number 10 is going to be different than firing number 2 . Stainless tumbling gets rid of all this carbon build up every time .

Awesome video, I think it's great information and thank you. Context: I am non an amazing ELR competitive shot or a bench rest expert. I choose to just seat a buppet to a consistent COL as e.g. per sami because is its repeatable (I know the throat erodes etc but its 308....) Is that a sin?

Any chance yall can go into how neck tension plays into the reloading process? And what's better mandrel vs neck bushing?

Do you not worry about cleaning the brass again after resizing? I figured the case lube would introduce unwanted contaminates, especially if you use like a sizing wax.

When is your M-Series Seating Die coming out?

did i miss decapping or was that part of the sizing? Did you decap before cleaning? i'm new to this and trying to get a list of equipment.

Did You use mseries siding die?

Craig what benches are those? Husky? Just curious i got one for my setup while I’m in residency. Obviously not as sturdy as my home bench but curious

What about re-cleaning after the resizing and trimming process to get all that lube off.

Do you consider cleaning the brass again to get rid of the lube especially on the inside of the case? also when do you consider depriming? Do you deprime after cleaning and cleaning the primer pocket seperately to avoid getting any tumble media stuck in the flash hole?

When and how do you de-prime the fired brass?

Do you de-prime before tumbling or at sizing brass

Are you using a seating die that is not released yet in this video?

how do u clean the inside seizing lube out of inside after sizing

who makes the hangers for the guns you have on the wall?

Are you de-priming as part of the sizing operation?

What are the two rifle stocks on the bottom right rifles on the wall behind the press?

Im surprised you didn't do any primer pocket work on your brass, chamfer and clean primer pocket. I think its an important step. So what do you think?

I know it’s another step but what about de-priming before cleaning and measuring the headspace? I’ve seen some primers cause bad readings because they are being referenced and not the actual base of the case.

Only had time to watch to 17:15 just before priming, but I didn’t see you use or mention a mandrel. Did I miss something?

Do you use a case check gauge?

Real question…why shouldn’t someone deprime, and then clean the brass?

Ive never tumbled brass. If they are dirty a simple whipe has been enough for me. I think the neck welding to the bullet really only applies to people who run max or close to max pressure

Sry, I missed the de-priming part. Notice that the tumbled brass still had the primer, but the Annealed brass had no primer. You use a dedicated "Universal" de-primer after the tumble? r/

Do you tumble off / clean off the One Shot case lube?

So y’all don’t find fire forming a piece of brace to a specific rifle is better than a full length sizing?

Any eta on seating dies?

What Headspace Gauge is that you are using?

My process: Inspect Decap Ultrasonic clean Dry Anneal Lube F/L Resize Dry tumble (to remove sizing lubricant) Measure, trim, chamfer,debur Prime Powder Seat bullet Inspect

You guys dont dry tumble before priming to get rid of the lube?

Being new to precision rifle ammo reloading, there is ONE item that lacked explanation, that is .050 last mentioned and not explained what in the world are you referring to? Please explain with clarity. Otherwise the remainder was very good.

How do you feel about ultrasonic cleaners?

ere does a guy get an adjustable bump die

I love how expensive and beautiful the primal rights priming tool is. Then everyone has to use a 10¢ rubber band to make it work easier. Somebody needs to make a nicer fix for this.

What seater are you using

So when loading precision ammo you don't need to wipe off Hornady One Shot case lube after sizing?

Need to make 300WSM and 284 Shehane dies so I can use them on my Zero Press. 😀

So I have a AGS annealer , I know everyone is raving about the amp Annealer but I just can’t afford it right now .

no neck sizing ?

10:05. I hope I don't bruise your guidelines, but all of those fluted barrels and muzzlebrakes and colored stocks are GAF!😂

Mostly Mad Men Like Robert Brantley 😂, He's a damn national treasure! 😂 He's definitely doing something right .

I don't need it but I'm going to squirrel away some ammo fund money so I can sneak one of your Zero Presses into my shop without my wife noticing.🐿

So your rationale for NOT using a wet-tumbler is YOU forgot and let it tumble too long? This is not the result of a faulty product or process, but user error.

this video is advertising for the most expensive reloading tools and nothing more 😂

You never de-primed the case LOL.

I take it back. Start at 9.20 knowing you should full length re-size. Also bear in mind used brass should be de-primed which he forgets.

4 minutes in. Just got to cleaning brass. Appears to prefer dry tumbling.

guess the spent primers just disappeared and who cleaned out the primer pockets ?

😻 *PromoSM*

5 minutes in. Wet tumbling appears to be devilish! Just start watching from 7.15.

1 minute in. Learned nothing other than someone loves the sound of their own voice. GET ON WITH IT!

2 minutes in. Still loving his own voice. Learned nothing about reloading or products.

You did not say anything about primer pocket cleaning/prep. So maybe it is something you do, but did not address in this video. For myself, I do not want to take more time in the process cleaning pockets. That is why I like wet tumbling with pins!!! Not only does the brass come out clean without wax... the the primer pockets are perfectly clean (inside and out). No need for anything else. So you bring up two issues of wet tumbling. First is that pins can stick, bunch or get stuck. That can be easily overcome with a media separator. I have only once had a case full of pins and that was easily identified with observation/handling during the reloading process, as you stated to watch for in the video. Secondly. You bring up the issue of pinging of the necks. This is an issue that Greg Dykstra whines about and now you. So please help me understand why this is a problem for accuracy. I ALWAYS chamfer (and debur) my case (if you do not please let me know why you do not). So, if the case neck has dings but is chamfered (and deburred) no part of the neck mouth will touch the bullet... so how could this possible effect accuracy? And if you trim a case, the issue of dings is completely gone. I look forward to your response.

3 minutes in. Still loving his own voice and passed no information on.

Buy me all the equipment that you have, and I might give this video a like, but for now it's definitely a thumbs down. I would elaborate more, but you probably wouldn't understand and couldn't take it.