Seconded! I have never soldered anything in my life, and today I successfully resurrected my BX-100. I feel like a king. Thank you!!!

I know im asking randomly but does anyone know a way to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my login password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!

@Memphis Blaze Instablaster =)

@Kyson Hunter thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Kyson Hunter It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D Thanks so much you really help me out!

The slowness changing sides is a combination of old belts and hardened grease in the pivots for the cassette holder. Requires extreme care in servicing. I don't see many 505 and 202 in for service but if I can make a video on one I will

Its turning out more that many of the pot-metal flywheels these transports use are cracking and falling apart. Someone needs to make steel replacements. Shame to see these decks have to hit the bin because of it.

This video on how to sand down belts with 600 sand tool may be useful : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i7yoeLWZ2MuwhGw.html

It's a difficult choice anymore. Russell is good with some sizes of belts and not with others. I've found that with the bx series nakamichi decks with the sankyo transport the russell industries belts don't cut it. Studio sound electronics used to have good belts, but no more. Marrs don't come through either. It's getting tougher for cassesste aficionados to get what they need.

The prices are going crazy now for all high end decks. About ten years ago you couldn't give them away. All are very collectable now days as there's a big increase in folk getting back into cassette taping and reliving the nostalgia from back in the day.

Check regulators. Make sure all voltages are correct. Most have +5 +12 and -12. Check the switching circuit between record and playback.

@@JordanPier Thank you :)

The lobe on the outside of the gear usually faces up Whichever yields the least resistance against the mechanism and gets everything lined up. The mech will correct itself upon power up

Were you able to remove the transport? and what was the problem with the BX300?

Half spun? Did it return to stop? If so the transport may be jamming, or something wasn't aligned right during reassembly

1. Yes this is a first gen sankyo deck with mechanical counter. I'm guessing yours is a later dr or cr series instead of a box. 2. Those are not clutches. They are brake pads that rest on the edge of the hub, activated when the function cam rotated by the motor back to the stop position. 3. I know of no source for those hubs, but some clever work with a fine piece of wire the thickness of a hair and a plastic slip washer can substitute

@@JordanPier Interesting. Thank you for this insight. I wish I could see those "brake pads" in action, but, from the front view, I cannot see them. Tip for other nubees: After pulling off my hubs, along with the idler pulley, to replace the tire and the back tension belt, I reinstalled the hub parts in the wrong order- make sure the spring goes on the spindle first, then that white plastic "nub" (I had it reversed and the hubs were turning with much effort until I got the order right....one more opportunity to lose a hub clip!). Follow-up question, if you don't mind, (hopefully others will benefit, too): As the take-up reel diameter changes with tape accumulation, I always assumed there would be slippage either somewhere inside the hub, or at the idler tire interface, to accommodate the changing RPM, but it appears that the idler tire drive assembly simply forces the motor to run slower, i.e. no slippage, no clutch action required. Is my observation correct? Now that I think of it, that is the only way the gear idler mod would work, the gears, unlike the tire, cannot slip! (I may have answered my question....) Really appreciate your providing this information on maintaining the BX-300, super helpful.

@@richardmarshall6751 there is a clutch in the idler swing arm Later ones that were direct drive via headset were controlled electronically by varying current to the reel motor.

@@JordanPier Is the clutch integral to the brass drive hub?

@@richardmarshall6751 you usually find a felt clutch between the brass piece and the swing arm for the idler.

Youd be sending me the whole deck Inbox me to chat more about it Vintageavrepair at gmail dot com

I machined the head a bit. I don't have any JIS sets.

www.ebay.com/itm/254778959189 These appear to work the best

Might just be a sticky counter. Not uncommon for the mechanical ones. Sometimes you can rock it back and forth with few and ff to get it unstuck. You can carefully spray it with Craig fader lube to lube up the gears.

@@JordanPier Right on, thanks!

Probably a failure in the muting circuit Normally supposed to mute only when not in play. Play is supposed to unmute. If you get sound for a second then gone I'd look there. Get a schematic if you know how to troubleshoot

I haven't used any silicone belts yet However my experience with silicone idler tire replacements have been not all that great. I don't know the original specs or materials on the original belts. Thanks for the talcum powder suggestion. I'll have to give that a shot.

No EQ pot on these. If you have frequency response issues check voltages on tape playback amp stages and couple caps for high esr. Schematics are available on hifi engine.

@@JordanPier So part of the schematic has a list of parts with the PB Eq. Amp. section, im guessing its gonna be a capacitor in there? PB Meaning playback?

@@Shad0wSeeker922 yes. Likely a cap, but voltage loss to a transistor in an eq circuit can cause it, or open teansistor

Don't have any for sale. Who knows how long they'll live. Death depends on useage. The more use, the more likely a failure. The point of this is to recondition the motor so you can get some more use out of it. Since it's an odd size and high torque there is little out there to sub for it They essentially use one motor for all transports. Want a better chance? Get a newer deck.

If playback slows to a stop and will not restart, first thing to do is grab a schematic and check the power supplies. There are several from +-5v to +-12v. Have the bottom cover off and ready when the failure occurs and check them. I'm betting one has fallen short

@@JordanPier hey thank you so much for the reply. I got the top cover off and replicated the issue. The capstan belt will begin slipping on the viewers left drive (believe this is the secondary one). I will still go through and check power supplies, but I believe the lack of power is from the belt slipping in place on the capstan. Thanks again for the reply, i really appreciate it and the video.

@@Uathankicks the bx 300 is a direct drive, with belt drive secondary supply capstan. If the deck is slowing down - it's likely due to take up capstan (on the right as seen from the front) with the dd motor causing issues. If the belt slips on the drive to the supply capstan you'll get some wow and flutter, but it won't slow to a stop. You can remove the belt completely and the set will still run..

Should be fine. Zoom-spout is my favorite, but I use the 3-in-one motor oil too.

Anything is better than nothing. 3 in 1 motor oil (not the universal, household oil), Zoom spout oil, or any low viscosity, non detergent motor oil will work great.

And the rubber quality is superb. Even 40 year old pinch rollers can look brand new and perform as good as they left the factory., astounding!

I only do this if it is malfunctioning. It's too easy to bend one of the leafs and cause a problem

@@JordanPier I suppose new spare parts are not available for this machine, like the flywheel, mode-switch wafers, cams, gears, etc. Especially as the original Nakamichi company doesn't exist now.

It usually is good practice to do that and is one of the common failures of old Nak decks. However, when I've clean the contacts in the past, this can lead to poor contact resistance. My suspicion is the coating on the contacts can easily be rubbed off. If cleaning, the best method I use is a piece of paper dabbed in IPA or a flattened down cotton bud head and gently give them a clean.

Right now the majority of belts used come from Russell industries. That or Thakker. I am looking at another company here in the states that say they can do them to make spec. It's not marrs. We'll see

WJOE.com in the States is another source and they come with very good instructions and CAD photos etc. Got a kit for my Dragon but wasn't impressed as wrong sizes were sent.

For test tapes try 'ant-audio.co.uk'. Alex makes some really good accurate test tapes that I use myself.

Hello, I was recommended these people. Super fast service and excellent communication. I haven't actually tried to fit the new belt yet as I am still digesting this brilliant video. Thank you Jordan! www.electronicsupplycorp.com/contents/en-us/d6_Flats_Belts.html

I know for one of their models Nakamichi had Sankyo make the entire mechanism. Sankyo ended up selling the same mechanism to Onkyo too, so there is an Onkyo cassette deck with a Nakamichi mechanism.

@@DrCassette I believe there were a few Yamaha decks that used the same mechanism as well (K-700/1000/KX1200) but I'm not 100% sure. I've got a lower model and it looks very much like this one inside but it still works fine so I haven't gone inside.

@@DrCassette Also the Kenwood series decks from the late eighties such as KX-880 & KX1100 etc use the same Sankyo mechanism as the Nak BX, CR etc and are a good source for parts and all interchangeable.

Yep. Visit repairaudio dot com, call during business hours for shipping instructions.

@@JordanPier thanks for the reply

Check continuity of three leaf switches that touch the cam. If bad contacts it will cycle endlessly

@@JordanPier Thank you JP, I also noticed that one of those "leaf" switches is more open than the one next to it with the deck not powered up and it does not look like it is contacting that white cam. I will also look into that also. Cheers

I haven't found anything in 15 years that works.

@@JordanPier cheers, tnx for replying... Have a Nad 6300 with sankyo drive, that might need new motor.

Usually if the heads don't lift the motor is stuck or has dead spots. Don't rule out previous disassembly and someone effing it up. See if you can lift the heads with some kind of tool when you hit play. If the heads move fixing the motor will probably do it. If they do t move you've got bigger issues

@@JordanPier Thanks. I can easily lift the heads so will proceed further. The only previous disassembly was for the upgrade years ago for the switch to gears done by a repair shop and from what I'm seeing so far at this stage of disassembly, you would never know anyone had ever been inside. The motor in your video really didn't look too bad seemingly only needing mild cleaning and lubricating. Is that all it takes for them to stick? If servicing the motor doesn't do the trick, is there any source of these other than finding a similar unit with a hopefully working motor?

@@johnsonclair9851 they stick usually due to a dead or dirty spot on the commutator. If servicing it doesn't fix it and it keeps getting stuck then you've got an open on the armature and another motor from a donor transport will be needed

@@JordanPier Am still in the disassembly stage. Have lots of additional questions not addressed in your great video which I want to ask but not certain you want to cover them here in this dialogue chain. If so, great, if not, am happy to send to a separate addy you might provide. Still can't believe how helpful your video is for what for me is now a close to 40 year old unit in absolutely mint condition failing for what I'm hoping is just that stuck motor. Many thanks.

@@johnsonclair9851 you can inbox me at vintageavrepair (at) gmail (dot) com. I'm always slammed with work, so don't expect an immediate response. I'll answer as I have time

Reel motor, yes, not sure about the capstan motor

@@JordanPier thank you frfr.

All nakamichi decks will eventually suffer this issue.

@@JordanPier Thank you for the reply.

Rarely do they fail. A drop of oil on the bushing is usually all thats needed. If in the rare event there is a failure, the Mabuchi eg530ad i believe is the replacement. At this day and age im more concerned about the crumbling pot metal in the capstan flyeheels

Use it till it fails. Also open it up and carefully look at the capstan flywheel. Im seeing more fail due to bad metallurgy. They get cracks and deformations in thr surface. Destroys the good wow and flutter and is not repairable without a donor with a good flywheel. Its going to be the end of these sadly.

@@JordanPier 😭😭 I’ll just enjoy the time i have left with her lol , i think I’d totally blow money on a better deck , maybe a three head when this goes .

The way it's crumbling it reminds me of pot metal. These series had transports made by sankyo, and the flywheel problem is averaging about 20% of the ones I service in a year.

@@JordanPier Yeah, I couldn't think of the term. I kept thinking of those die-cast cars made from pot metal.

That flywheel looks like suffering of zinc pest...

inbox me if you haven't already. vintageavrepair at gmail dot com

About 40% now have this disease

A studio grade machine versus a consumer grade machine. Studer and revox are both better but also more complicated when repairs are needed