Thank you!

Thank you so much. Got a DIY CNC plasma table that's easy and cheap to build coming up next. Cheers J

Thank you Sean. Cheers J

Thank you! Welding skills pays the bills...

Sure does. cheers J

Thank you. Cheers J

Thank you Tom. All the very best. Cheers J

Thank you Mango. Cheers J

Hi thank you. We're in the UK. Unfortunately Suckley engineering is no more but I'm sure they would be delighted with your feedback. Because a lot people buy from all around the world we included the DXFs as a digital file so you can get the parts cut by as CNC laser locally. Otherwise I believe it's more expensive for Suckleys to cut and post them. All the very best. Cheers J

That's why we don't coat it with anything. No point just burns off. Cheers J

Burn rate can be controlled to keep it from overheating by the air intakes and damagong the stove.

Thank you! J

Thank you. Cheers J

Thank you Mark. Cheers J

@@joshuadelisle do you think that adding a baffle like your have on my existing homemade fireplace insert would help with heat output?✌️

@@markb3129 could do but it's relative to the length of chimney you have. If you extract too much heat then it will effect the draw.

@@joshuadelisle Joshua it fits in a brick fireplace, 34" across front tapers to 22" in rear and is 26" in depth, would a third of the depth be good, or any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. ✌️

@@markb3129 Hi Mark. I suggest contacting a local company and suggest a flue liner installation. I believe for a stove they will make the liner go full length of the chimney and will certify it for you. All the very best. J

How much would they cost to buy from yourselves please

Sure you can they are all flat position welds. You don't have to weld full runs like do but do progressive short ones instead. A stick welding machine would be fine to do this with to. You can do it! Just practice on some scrap metal first.

Hi. It's 5mm thick. Can warp a bit if over loaded but because of the design will still function great regardless. Extra stiffening can easily be added if necessary. We used ours for years to burn all our wood and cardboard waste. Cheers J

Yes they are for secondary burning of syngasses. not sure about smokeless fuels we've only ever used them for wood and burnable rubbish. cheers J

If the draw of the chimney is substantial then no gasket is needed. Fire bricks absorb heat and then release it slowly through the day. Not having bricks means instant heat and will quickly die down when not needed. You can add bricks if you want to. Cheers J

Thank you. We use 5mm mild steel. Cheers J

@@joshuadelisle steel is so expensive these days.

Thank you. Jeff. Cheers J

Only the beginning of the video and at the end. But I can get shots posted on Instagram if you like? Cheers J

@@joshuadelisle I watched it live and just missed the first minute of the vid. Sorry. Looks like a great design

I don't recommend this for a house. It's a bit too savage. Also I would recommend something that your insurance company would approve for your home. For a poorly insulated workshop this is great especially if you produce a lot of burnable waste.

Not if the draw of chimney is correct. Our chimney is 6m and has excellent draw.

@@joshuadelisle " If " the Correct Draw " - Excellent draw ? .. Even with almost 20ft of chimney.. On a windy night/day you might have ..back draft. Toxic fumes might just blow back past the top plate.. This might be a health problem and worth mentioning? You need to say.. " FOR OUTDOOR USE ONLY "

Hi. Thank you so much. Unfortunately suckleys had to close so I'm unable to keep selling the files for the burners. Also the laws have changed so I believe that design is no longer acceptable without thorough tests and certification. I've got ideas for new designs in the future when time permits however. Cheers J

Ok no problem, thanks for the reply and I’ll be keeping my eye open for the new burner when you get the chance to do it ☺️

A 20kw heats up our industrial unit which is 12m X 20m X 8m. It depends on what you burn and how frequently. Some buy a 28Kw from us mainly because it has more room for larger pieces of pallet wood and old window frames.

Chimney draw is the most important part. Ours is 8m and draws amazing

I was just about to ask how you removed the ash.

We've used ours for years with no trouble, the one featured is in our nabours wood shop who always had it running. We just just shovel the ash out the top which is very wide. It's very deep so we only empty once a month or so. The bottom air feeds can be shut off for shavings and ash also. cheers J

@@joshuadelisle leave a certain amount in,wood burns best on a bed of ash

A slide out ash drawer would be awesome.

Included in the download are DXF files for sending to your local profile cutting company for CNC cutting the parts out for you. Cheers J

Hi. How you use a wood stove is the main point to its efficiency, a top of the range all singing all dancing wood stove could very well perform less to a simple steel box from a number of factors including moisture content of the fuel, length and width of chimney pipe and how you light the fire to maximize the burn of sin gas. This stove is formulated to the right size and air flow for the 20kw rating and will pump out that heat fast. However it isn't lined with fire brick so it doesn't soak up heat and release it gradually through the day like a house stove does. It's very good at heating a large space quickly in comparison to a stove with fire bricks. It doesn't re circulate sin gas afterburn which top of the range stoves do but If you light the stove top down, as in stack larger pieces of wood at the bottom and light smaller kindling at the very top then as the fire build it cooks the wood beneath releasing sin gas and re ignites in the flames above increasing its efficiency and not loosing the gasses in the exhaust when building the fire bottom up in comparison. Hope that helps. Cheers J

@@joshuadelisle Thank you for taking the time to give me all the answers to my questions asked. Look forward to your new videos which will keep me informed to make sure I make educated choices when buying or making my own woodstove. Peace to you also too. VF

@@joshuadelisle Thanks Joshua for the info on the wood stove. Peace V

It depends on the length of the chimney and if the room is sealed or has adequate airflow to the fire. With a short chimney in an enclosed space with no air flow with wet wood you'll definitely get excess smoke. Doing a top down fire with dry wood, a long chimney stack 6m+ and have an air inlet from outside directed to the fire then smoke will never be an issue. Cheers J

Awesome, thank you for your time, sir. I look forward to more videos from you

Yes unfortunately Suckley engineering is no more and regulations have changed. so I'll be re-designing a new version in the future. Cheers J

@@joshuadelisle The regulations have changed? More like government (N🌎O) want control everything like with smart meters and with the madness or forcing you to have an EV. They don't you to have free heating, well are now going start to hand out fines of £300 you if you make too much smoke?

Should be at the end of the video. Cheers J

It can be yes. You just need to pack the sawdust around a tube/former near the air inlets. Then remove the formers and start the fire at the bottom of the hole where the formers were placed. Cheers J

Not if the draw of the chimney is good enough. I recommend at least 6m of flu for this size. Cheers J

Nope not really. We reinforced the lids which would have. sold lots and to all the local businesses near us have them to with no complaints. Cheers J

Hi Jake. If you're in the UK I recommend central profiles. £150 is I think what we pay. Cheers J

Perfect. Thanks Josh!

@@JakeT0191 No problem. Cheers J

@@joshuadelisle do you ship that product to the states?

@@tyronejones8399 hi. You can download the DXF for having the parts cut locally if you like. If you're not able to weld you can hire a local fabricator. Cheers J

Total build including cutting the ribs and tapping holes is about 4 hours, the lid taks time to to mark out and align the stiffners.

We have no trouble. It is very wide lid and scoop out ash. Works well with a bed of ash anyways and the high air inlets mean you don't need to clean it out as often. You can get ash can attachments to your vacuum cleaner for quick cleaning but it's really not an issue, used ours for years.

You could always modify it to your liking by adding an ash drawer/door under the grate. I rather prefer a side load access as well, rather than a top load. Again, no real issue to modify. Just need to fab/forge some hinges, a track around the mating surface to accept some stove rope gasket, and a latching mechanism.

@@thomasarussellsr you certainly could. I've also been interested in making a hopper and auger to feed shavings in automatically or a drip feed tray for waste oil burners. Cheers J

@@joshuadelisle also good options. A waste oil burner would boost the BTUs a bit as well. Just have to watch it as to not let it get so hot as to get the surfaces glowing hot, compromising the structural integrity.

No longer available as suckleys is closed. Cheers J

Contact Suckleys if you would like a bespoke model. Cheers J

Joshua De Lisle I’ll get in contact

Hi Check out the link in the description, it will auto translate to the right currency. All the very best. Cheers J

Contact winthill engineering near suckley. They are suckley engineering under a new brand name. Cheers J

5mm

@@joshuadelisle thank you sir

It's very cost effective to have pre laser cut parts with tabs and most people can't use CAD. It's also dimensionally engineering to work effectively which save you time to research and calculate the most effective proportions. Small price to pay for all that work done for you. Cheers J

Because there used to be plans available for you to build it yourself. Cheers J

Works great and is cost effective.