I don't think it will work better, only safer considering that everything 'mechanical' will fail someday, and if the vent is higher water won't come out of it. I always keep my vents 'high' when I can and always accessible. Some day they will need to be changed.

Yes, I noticed that little unmentioned mistake correction also. Would have been nice to mention that the full drain assembly should be dry fit before gluing to avoid such rework.

Should be 4 inches or so above the trap, but sometimes lack of room is a lack of room.

@@LTVoyager common sense bud. Rough draft first.

sneakrevived People with common sense don’t watch videos like this. 😁

Thanks

Call the store if you want a Jon, 586-776-9532, ask for Jennifer

I think you'll have trouble hanging that tub. The wall mounts come with the bracket and filler 'wings' that support the lower part of the tub against the wall. Not that you can't McGilbert a system, it won't be easy. Blair

yes, that was from the intro to the water testing.

You can get a sewage eject her system which is a waterproof tank with the pump in it you can Bury in the floor and then your sink in your washing machine could go directly into it, which will eliminate the pump that’s underneath your laundry tub now.

Send a picture of the drain plumbing below the sink. That is where the connection will be made.

Only if the drain line below is clogged. Blair

I like to install a lift pump in the floor of the basement so I can have sinks and other stuff draining into it. You can even add a toilet and if you buy the right one it will raise waste from the toilet up to the sewer line.

It could be your line is not vented properly and/or it could be getting a little clogged do the buildup of lint and soap, and such. lack of venting can cause a line that becomes overwhelmed with water to Lock up.

The high Side is the inlet, the low side gets the wall tube or the pipe with the bend in it which goes to the wall. That way the trap will hold about an inch and a half of water to keep the sewer gases from coming into the house. Occasionally with the disposal that’s too low I have to install a P-trap backwards to accommodate how low I disposal is.

Just get too many parts, that will reduce wasted trips to the store.

Mr. Hardware Pretty nice work. Here are a few suggestions: 1) Don't use purple primer. Use clear primer and clear glue for prettier work. 2) I would have used a "no-hub band" on the discharge side of the lower tee connecting to the 2" coming out of the floor (for possible future changes) 3) There is no way into the standpipe trap, except going down through the standpipe. I would either put a Swivel P-trap on or a clean-out tee on the horizontal pipe dumping into the tee, or I would use another "no-hub band" to allow access into the standpipe trap. 4) The Air-admittance valve should be rolled out from under the sink and extended 6" above the flood level rim of the sink that it is serving. The thinking here is that if the drain ever plugs and backs up, the water will fill the sink and flood out rather than potentially backup out of the Air Admittance Valve. I would then pin the Air Admittance pipe to the wall. Lastly, I would try to install a faucet block on the sink to hold the faucet. All in all, I would give you a "B" to "B+" for this work. Missing the correct height of the trap is totally a no-no. I don't believe that anyone should ever be proud of how little time a job took, instead be proud of how good the work is. Contributed by a Retired Master Plumber Extraordinaire.

@@acemcflanders1704 - "1) Don't use purple primer. Use clear primer and clear glue for prettier work." You an "F" for that suggestion. Michigan code - where he is working from - demands purple primer for jobs like this. "P3003.9.2 Solvent cementing Joint surfaces shall be clean and free from moisture. A purple primer that conforms to ASTM F656 shall be applied."

6"to 8' w/out a vent, I don't know the distance with the vent but it is over 20'. Check with the local plumbing inspector for more exact lengths.

@@blairgilbert7606 thanks so much! I only need about 5 feet so I should be good!

I don't but every several years I use a strong acidic drain opener, 3 small doses 10 minutes apart, wait 10 more minutes more then flush with lots of water. The lint filter in the pipe is hidden and will either squirt water or blow off the end of the pipe and clog the trap if you don't change it monthly or more.

Woops, I started w/the tee to high. Glad to see someone keeping an eye on me!

Well at least he didn't just cut out that part of the video. Most viewers would not catch it and us plumbers would just say. "That's why we use tubular tailpieces." I do like how clear and concise Gilbert's videos are. A lot of other videos are 95% bloopers, handwaving and fluff and 5% content. Gilberts videos are 96% clear instruction with succinct callouts for the parts. All site-built projects are moving targets up to the very end. He mentioned possibly raising the faucet but after checking the fit decided the deck was high enough since it was only 1/4 thick. Thanks for the videos! Keep up the great work!

Thanks man, Blair

Great video very helpful well done !!

I do when I can. The vent, like anything mechanical will require replacement or cleaning some day so keeping it accessible is most important. However a clog should not effect the seal in the vent as it should be closed at the time of the clog.

It is a ridgid form of plastic. I can't tell you the compositon but the brand is Mustee. I like them, hate the legs on all others.

it is made out of polypropylene

I can't comment on the trap height, but I've passed 3 inspections with this same configuration. According to my guru you can use a sanitary tee or a wye in this application.

@@MrHardware1 ok. Cool. Thanks for the response. Was just curious!

Wye is illegal for stack venting. It will block air flow for the trap seal and could possibly siphon.

@@sdotmurda Im talking about where the washer comes in the system. Everything I've read says that should not be a tee. Then again I'm not a licensed plumber. Just a diy guy that wants to know things. My stand pipe for my washer in my basement runs into a stack that has a sink above it on the second floor. When I cut that stack to add the standpipe I was told that the tie in from the standpipe into the stack couldn't be a tee. It had to be a combination wye. That's why I was asking

@@EGGINFOOLS I think the reason it needs to be a Wye is because it's a wet vent meaning it also is a drain but it's big enough to be used for a vent.

I do believe code requires that the distance to a trap cannot exceed 36 inches or so, but distance from the floor is nothing I ever had encountered.

@@MrHardware1 yes sir it dont make much sense to me, but i checked my local code and it sure enough says trap weir to floor must be between 6"-18". only thing i remember seeing for distance to trap was that from trap weir to the vent must be at least twice the diameter of the pipe. so for 2" pipe, the vent has to be 4" from the trap weir.

@@rembo318 I cannot find any place in the code where it says the distance the trip we are to the floor. Bathtubs, floor drains and slop sinks the trap is below the floor. The only distance code I see regarding a trap is a maximum of 24 inches from the weir to the bottom of the fixture, and others of course but no reference of trap to floor.

Actually 4” above the trap weir. Check the code.

Nope, the trap can be anywhere as long as there is a 30/36" standpipe above it. Your washing machine discharge hose will be high on the wall, and to what end? Actually too high or too far from a vented line and you have to revent, keeping it low prevents suction and the water exits the trap.