Thanks for putting a smile on my face today Tomasz. Hope you're subbed!

just subbed!, what a Gem of Channel MAnn!

+Tomasz Zaleski Thanks so much Tomasz. I really appreciate a new sub! Welcome! :)

+Robbie Dang My tap water serves as my pH up Robbie - algae tends to raise, not lower, pH-but that's another video in itself! :)

Mark Griggs your a jackass hahaha that is the way i feel lmao

Mark Griggs my girlfriend thinks cilantro smells like chlorine. I think its time to let her go

NEW YORK CITY!?!?!

cilantro is nasty

+Frank Braninburg thanks Frank. When watering my outdoor plants with RO I add Cal/Mag and Floralicious Plus (sometimes) - sometimes FloraBlend or for a broad spectrum boost of organic fertility I add Charge (insect frass) but it tends to clog the sprinkler attachment of mg watering can! Great stuff though :)

+Dernessa Hammond Great idea Dernessa, thanks!

Old qu I know but he does say in the video what agitation of the solution can do, in short it can make it aciditic

I watch your channel did you figure out the cause?

@@iheart3dprinting951 I don’t even remember making this comment. But I had several follow up videos to that. It’s pretty straightforward why the pH is different. CO2 in the water creates carbonic acid.

Thx Dave. Do you have any suggestions for ppm's in both stages?

@@ZinfandelRed1914 That depends on your grow,,you have to find the correct levels for your grow,,way too many variables to say this ppm is what you need,,i start pretty low,,seedlings over 6 inches tall i start at 200ppm,,adjust every 12 hours until ph stabilizes,,then you have your baseline,,a starting point,,its very important to maintain solid ph levels no fluctuations,,when i grew in 5gal buckets ph was a twice a day test,,ive went to 50 gal res now much easier to maintain,,if you learn to feed by ph fluctuations it removes 85 % of dwc problems,,if you check ph an its going down hard dump bucket drop nute levels,,this most times keeps you from burning plants,,during veg you will find the more mature the plant the more nutes itll take ,,by the end of veg im up around 7to 900 ppm,,but i veg 8 weeks to fill my net completely,this rewards me with over a pound per plant,,so you just have too start using ph to feed soon you will know approximate levels fer each stage of growth,you learn your bbaseline that fits your setup,,ive also found different strains eat different levels,,so get to feeding this way ,,learn it for your grow setup,i do totally believe it does not matter what brand of nutes you use ive had equal results from fox farm ,gh flora,advanced nutes ,,now im running masterblend dry nutes,,all nute lines ive tried rewarded me with a 1 lb avg weight,,its not brand its how you apply nutes,,the grow i just harvested with masterblend ,blue planet gold sheild,,and green planet massive bloom,and i do not have chlorine in my tap water so i use tap water,good luck,,of course once you learn to feed this way you take a whole pile of luck out of the equasion,,grow green buddy

420NugGrowShow did you get a reply to this if so what was it . thanks

I hear you James. I use my tap water as a sort of pH up adjuster when things head south. Silica, chlorine and other trace elements are a very interesting topic that we should explore further!

+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) I agree. The plants that I grow seem to love trace elements. A little chlorine does seem to improve the quality of my herbs. They especially like Calcium which should almost be considered a macro element because of the abundance required, especially in a coco base mix. it is right up there with Nitrogen in my opinion. Lets not even get started with magnesium!...

+James 84 You've inspired me to make a series of videos exploring the macros and micros James and how they REALLY work - both in an isolated sense and how they interact. It's one thing to say "Calcium is a transporter of other nutrients" - and you're right about its importance, and the elevated levels needed with coco - but I really want to go into WHY it is a transporter. I don't want to turn this into "chemistry channel" but a bit of theory goes a long way in practice ;-) Thanks again for the inspiration.

How’s your journey going ? Any new tips on maintaining ph ?

+dace villein Great advice. Thanks for sharing.

Hi Kevin, thanks for your kind words. I am a software engineering grad but looking to take my masters in plant science.

+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) Ahhh, okay. Thanks for replying and good luck to you sir!

+RAD Aquatics Hi RAD, thanks for your question. If you are using RO water and Flora Series you will not need to pH adjust - whether you use CalMag or not. In any case, i would not recommend ever using baking soda as an ingredient for your nutrient solution. It adds too much sodium to your mix which aggravates calcium uptake - this, in turn, interferes with the uptake of a whole range of other elements. So baking soda is a big no no for me. When I need to raise pH I just add my (hard) tap water. Another option is very dilute potassium silicate but ideally this should be added first before adding your calmag or base nutrients.

An air pump won’t cool the res. But you should run it 24/7. I love non restrictive media and dripping through it 24/7 - no irrigation cycles to dial in :)

Hi PIZbICK, it's a 2 X 4 Duralastics tray sat on a Fast Fit tray stand. I used a Hydroflow Ebb and Flow fittings kit and a small pump to create a simple ebb and flow system. The trays of cilantro were raised up on GroSmart trays for drainage and less contact time with the nutrient solution during the flood cycle. I could make a specific video about it.

+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) and the black trays are foodgrade styrofoam trays?

+POZblCK They are food grade plastic, but not styrofoam-they are more rigid and reusable. I picked them up for a buck each at my local hydro store. I can chase down the name of them if you're interested.

Try diluting your ph solution don't use it neat , ph adjustment shouldn't effect cf unless maybe your using too much, get a bluelab cf meter for reliable measurement

I have ezacley the same problem..have you found a sulution to this pleas this is my first DWC grow and now im in bloom the PH just keeps dropping same as you exsplaned HELP

Hi, same problem with lettuce in DWC system, did you find a solution? please help!

@@santiagoortizbasualdo3682 I changed my res and altered the nutrient mix bit.

@@stallonegardner1368 thank you very much for your answer! In which way did you alter your mix specifically? Did that sudden drop in pH ever happen to you again?

same :( what did you do ? i keep adding ph down almost daily and my ppm is going way to up i got to changer water ever damn week -_-

@@SwapSupra yeah bro..dwc is complicated everything should be priciesly done

+stacy white Hi Stacy, thanks for your question. Very interesting. Some questions: 1) What is your water source? Tap or Reverse Osmosis? 2) What size is your reservoir? 3) What do you pH adjust your nutrient solution to? Is any adjustment necessary? What pH adjuster do you use? 4) What is the TDS / EC of your nutrient solution? 5) Are you using any additives or just base nutrients? 6) Are you supplementing with atmospheric CO2? 7) What are your max and min temperatures over a 24 hour period? 8) What proportion of grow / micro / bloom are you using (i.e. ratios 1:1:1 or 1:2:3 etc) 9) Are your plants producing fruits or are the flowers aborting? 10) Are your plants exhibiting any other signs of stress? Don't worry Stacy, we'll get to the bottom of this!

My water source is well water. My resivior is 20 gallons. I would only adjust ph at begining of fresh nutes. Its around 7.0 after that the PH stayed in the range of 6.0 .6.5.. very seldom adjusted it. I use GH's up an down solutions.i have started using diamond nectar couple weeks ago only addative. Temp in resv has heater set at 72, room has heater also.since the plants are transitioning to flowering i followed GHs recommendation on bottle..no fruits yet flowers not mature yet to open.

+stacy white Okay-time to test the pH and EC / TDS of your run-off and compare it with your fresh nutrient solution. How much diamond nectar are you adding please?

I add 10 ml

+stacy white If you're sure that you do not have a disease,I would say to ride it out past the transition stage from flower initiation to fruit set and you should see it stabilize. Sometimes it's just due to nutrient uptake, and this maybe exacerbated by the addition of the fulvic acid. Buddies of mine used to have this issue with cucumbers on NFT - when they started to set fruit, and for some reason it always happened more in the autumn months than summer... maybe due to lower light and lower VPD.

+Kenneth Manzanares Thanks Kenneth-you're not the first person to make such a request! :)

+John Correia Both companies make industry leading products. I will be trying to make sense of multiple nutrient lines in the coming months, so I look forward to reporting back. I've not noticed any pH instability. Do change your reservoirs every once in a while. Peace! Everest.

Yes - it can be - but it’s very difficult to actually reach a point where it does become an issue.

Your reflector choice is everything with DE. May I suggest a medium DEfender wing from Adjustawings and a 600/750W DE-HPS lamp?

@@Just4Growers is there one that would be air cooled? I live in a hot climate, it would be nice to get rid of some of the heat without busting ass on the air conditioner. We're you the one that had the diy chiller with the mini fridge? That was a solid idea, short of the hose ends leeching, but poly line instead would be SOOOLIDDDD

Ha-I think that's a compliment! :)

you are explaining so nice and in detail...i really appreciate::)

+Marco Antonio Toss Arugula?

Mean Rocket/Arugula Salad. I have problens with phythium and white rust.

John Agner this tends to happen in the vegetative cycle when the plant has used up all the nitrates (which they uptake preferentially) and is left with ammonium (which is uptaken more slowly). Ammonium is a cation (positively charged ion) so the plant releases OH- into the nutrient solution to maintain a neutral charge, raising the pH. Time to change the reservoir.

Heheheh-I see what you did there Neil you cunning linguist.

Thanks for the reminder! I’ve been meaning to for so long.

+james miles In the US we use the term "cilantro" to describe the plant's leaves and coriander for the seed. Apologies for any confusion.

OneOfTheMob Thanks for sharing that data.

+Redrum 762 Hey Redrum-I'm so glad that you enjoy my videos, even if we don't grow the same species of plants-we both clearly enjoy a big bear hug from Mother Nature from time to time, our cheeky little faces being squished into her massive, warm, opulent bosom. Honestly, I could stay there forever, feeling cherished and loved. I guess what we need to find is a fast-growing, heavy-fruiting annual native to the subtropics-something that naturally enjoys particularly sunny, well-draining sites situated at 2000+ ft elevation, where the temperatures are moderate. Certainly replicating these conditions indoors can be tricky, but it's far from impossible. I hope that, as the channel grows, you will find more and more interesting videos popping out. Who knows, maybe we'll tackle some hitherto untouched topics head on in the not so distant future.

+speadskater Thanks for your insights Speadskater. I am going to run through some homemade recipes in upcoming videos and compare costs and performance. Maybe we should compare notes amigo?

Absolutely. I started with this. yara.com/images/9-239336Manual_nutrient_solutions_digital.pdf

Here's my thought, It cost me $400 to get all of the necessary micros and macros for a 50 gallon batch of 1:100 nutrients at 2000ppm. The continual cost is $88 per 50 gallons of concentrate. From time to time, I need to buy calcium nitrate, or epsom salt, or monopotassium phosphate, or iron dtpa, but long term, I have 100% control AND It's much cheaper than anything you'll ever get at a hydro store.

+speadskater Thanks my friend. I have downloaded this but just need some time to read through properly. If someone is willing to invest in a decent pair of scales, do a little research, learn some chemistry and math, and buy some technical grade mineral salts they can certainly circumvent the intrinsic economic cost of leaving it for somebody else to do, and some. That said, the nutrient biz is a competitive place and many of the products out there really excel. I should know because I take them to their limits (aka plant abuse) :) Anyway thanks again for posting.

You can slow down the video in settings.

+Fluffy Crepe To be honest Fluffy pH tends to drift one way for any given growing operation (usually up) so it's really not necessary in practical terms. Bluelab know what they're doing, I'm quite sure of that. :)

I'm supremely confused by this as I've only ever seen downward drift. Without fail each day my 10 gallon reservoir, single plant DWC, will drift downward. It gets dosed back up and the next day it drifts back down a bit. Maybe 0.3 or so. No RO filter sadly but I'm using tap water that was left to off gass somewhat.

+EƎ I hear you amigo but a windowsill doesn't give me the controllable, repeatable conditions I need. (I work in plant mineral nutrition) If I was just growing cilantro for something to sprinkle on my curries, well yes a windowsill would suffice (as long as temperatures didn't exceed 23C else it would bolt and flower) - as for the trays stands, very strong and practical - easy to assemble and disassemble - although I may experiment with some DIY tray stands later this year.

When was the last time you changed your res?

The water out of my tap runs at around 0.7 mS - mostly calcium and magnesium carbonates and bicarbonates. Whether I use tap water or any other source, the upper limit of my feed solution conductivity sits around 2.5mS for the sort of plants I’m growing right now. So, with tap water, I can add 1.8mS of mineral nutrients before I reach this limit (as I’m starting at 0.7mS) - now, admittedly, I wouldn’t be reaching for the CalMag bottle in this case and would probably choose a hard water formulation base nutrient, but it’s hard to avoid giving too much calcium and magnesium with water like mine and at sub-optimal ratios. Far better to start with RO water at 0.0mS and have the full 2.5mS available to my cal/msg and base nutrients. My cal/mag supplies calcium to magnesium at 3:1 with some handy nitrates and some chelated iron thrown in. I’ll CalMag up to 0.3 and then go with my base up to my desired target EC. I rarely have to pH adjust when mixing up initially.

@@Just4GrowersHave you heard of Rainwater? In the UK where I am it is 0.34 EC and PH 6.5. It's only worth using reverse osmosis water for big grows that justify the cost. I've only needed to use cal mag a few times in decades of growing in Coco Coir hand watered and rockwool NFT. I rarely have any nutrient lockout issues or deficiencies to be honest. Spider mites and Thrips seem much more common than any other issues.

⁠​⁠​⁠​⁠@@GMT439Thanks for sharing your insights. Using rain water in soilless cultivation has pros and cons. Given that you reside on a small island, you may well live close to the coast. Some of that 0.34mS will be made up of sodium (Na⁺) and chloride (Cl⁻) and there may well be some sulphate (SO₄²⁻), and nitrate (NO₃⁻) ions in your rain water too. Reverse osmosis water gives me a clean canvas. I’m starting at (very nearly) zero so, as long as I measure my concentrates accurately, I can be sure that the ion ratios are as intended. For coco coir, it’s good to use a coco-specific formula or at least elevate calcium and magnesium levels slightly to counteract the inevitable ion exchange that occurs on coco coir, particularly upon first use. Rain water can contain organic matter, bacteria, and other pathogens. Rain water may require filtration and sterilization before use in hydroponic systems to mitigate the risk of introducing unwanted pathogens and disease. Reverse osmosis changed my life and there’s no going back now! In any case, wishing you and your garden the very best on 2024 🎉

Only I neither have any freaks to sell, nor do I give a freak.

+BristlyBright Than obviously you don't watch the videos. There is a lot of good information in these videos and if you see something you like, isn't it easier to be able to see what it is and how much it costs?

+Lex Luthor (Xodi) I think that Everest's videos was better before. A calmer tempo and less flashing selling text. It's to american for me I guess.. I unsubbed today. Didn't think that would happen..

+BristlyBright come back dude I put a lot of work into these vids and, as an industry guy, I like to give the equipment I choose to use a shout out.

+Everest Fernandez (Just4Growers) That I will give You, You do make professional looking videos with good quality! You put a lot of work in to them and it shows! It's just that the tempo of your speech, and the overall feel to me feels like a commercial, say as much as you can in least amount of time.

+BristlyBright I'm going to take what you've said on board. And, if there's a topic you'd like me to cover in a more steady, dare I say, British-style, pace then I'd be happy to old chap. :)