Thanks for the positive feedback. To set the clearances you don't need to remove the sprockets from the cams. Replacing the buckets is at 17:30 - Full details on how to select the replacement sizes you need are included in the book. www.marksmotorcycleparts.co.uk/product-page/copy-of-service-manual-for-bmw-k1600gt

Chris Payne you say what?:-)

G33 RT my son who is 3 years old got hold of my iPad and replayed to you lol

If you can do your own work on the k16, you'd say thousands of dollars in shop time, literally many thousands.

Yes that would have made it very low maintenance, but a bit more expensive and bulkier in the cylinder head. I'm sure they've tried a lot more in the development workshop than we'll ever get to see....

You may need to gently tap it from each side with a mallet to loosen it

I needed to change a couple shims at 36000 miles. Don't know after that as I sold the bike the following year.

I used three pieces 170mm long, but it doesn't need to be exact, a little longer or shorter isn't a problem.

Wonderful. Fabulous roll on grunt. Howls to the red line well when you let it. Sophisticated, effortless performance. The joy of Six. It brightens my day more effectively than anything else I've ever owned, and surely that's why we ride bikes in the first place.

Interesting question. Not sure of the answer. You'd definitely need a bigger than standard radiator - even at stock power levels the cooling is marginal. If the engine could take it, I'd be concerned about the gearbox - a car won't accelerate as quickly as a bike so the gearbox will feel the full force of the increased torque for much longer, and will might either break or wear out more quickly. Suzukis are much more of a known quantity - more people are doing very high power engines so knowledge, spares and turbo kits are much more available. A reliable 500bhp from a Hayabusa engine is doable. I know its a 4 not a 6, but it'll be reliable for much less effort. To answer your question, you might get away with it, but you'll be figuring it out as you go and when it goes wrong it will be expensive.

@@ducatiparts110mb Your right Mark, common sense is go the Suzuki Hayabusa route for reliability and accessibility of parts. I've a feeling the K1600 gearbox would give out, even if the total weight of the car and engine is 600-650kg, but the wonderful engine note of the K1600 is so hard to let go off :-)

@@ronniet906 I agree, K16 vs Hayabusa = heart vs head....

Can't remember where I got mine. Had them for years but its ok to use two feelers together if you need to.

@@ducatiparts110mb DUH

For the task described in the video, it makes no difference how you identify the cylinders

When I did the video, 30000km. Just sold it a few weeks ago at 60000km.

There have been a few bikes with hydraulic tappets over the years, but its a difficult technology make small enough and reliable at very high RPM, so bikes have never embraced it.

Yes, it is absolutely worth doing it. BMW tell you that you should, so I am not so arrogant as to say that I know better than they do. However, on my K16 and other DOHC bikes, the clearances normally stay in tolerance for far longer than the recommended interval, and you'll get the peace of mind of knowing that everything is fine without the need to take the cams out. I checked my Africa Twin at 6000 for another service book (the interval for the valves is 16000), and more than half of the clearances were out of tolerance, so do not assume they'll be right without checking.

@@ducatiparts110mb Thanks, I have been buying what i need for this falls big tune up. Plugs, Antifreeze, Anitseeze, electrical lube, etc etc. I did the valves once and that freaking air breather tube I remember was a total headache. This time I will try a hair dryer to heat it and use grease to reseat it. The actual valves check is a POCake unless one is out. Thanks again for your awesome videos. I doi have one question: I flushed my clutch with Blue Blood. I have one tiny air bubble I think near the master cylinder. That darn air bubble just will not work its way out even after 4 months. Any suggestions?

@@navyretired230 You're right, the air tube is pretty much impossible to remove without breaking it. I sell a flexible alternative on my site marksmotorcycleparts.co.uk that is half the cost of the BMW part and reusable. Some bikes have a bleed nipple on the mastercylinder, but if yours doesn't I'd try turning the bars fully to the right (bike on the centrestand) to raise the clutch as far as possible.

@@ducatiparts110mb does your air tube come with something to make the oem rubber grommet a smaller size to fit your new design?

@@navyretired230 My air tube uses the original grommets. After you take the old air tube out, swap the grommets over to the new air tube. Before refitting it, apply a little rubber grease and fit the new air tube to your engine. Mine has been on my engine now for 35,000 miles with no problems.

Please can you be more specific? I'm happy to help but don't understand the question.